AMS c55 Pulley installation info
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Joined: Nov 2012
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From: San Diego, CA
2005 C55 black on black aka DVS C55, 2007 C230 sport silver on black for the boss
AMS c55 Pulley installation info
After researching it thoroughly I think the trick to having the aluminum AMS pulley not grenade/wobble/come loose is to properly tighten it every few months and then possibly longer intervals. I am basing this on my experience with other parts where over time aluminium "compresses" to create gaps where it is bolted or riveted. When you rev the engine the pulley tries to "walk" up the belt putting a lot of pressure on the inside of the channel where it slides onto the crank snout. Over time this micro movement loosens the pulley and it starts to wobble creating more space and then eventually, well, search for the pictures...
I am working on a custom tool that will fit studs (with thin layer of rubber to prevent damage to pulley) into the pulley holes and will brace against the concrete floor but will allow a bar and socket to get to the crank bolt. This way one person can torque the crank bolt to the 147lbs plus 90degrees the factory calls for and then easily recheck the torque every few months or so. In a few of the install threads I have read on the pulley the common theme is that it was a pain to tighten (Oh, thats good enough may have occured) and then no retightens ever occured eventually leading to a loose pulley. I will also check the bolt depth to make sure there is room for the bolt to be tightend without bottoming out...
Once I finish the tool I'll post a pic and my install results. My pulley is currently sitting on the work bench...
I am working on a custom tool that will fit studs (with thin layer of rubber to prevent damage to pulley) into the pulley holes and will brace against the concrete floor but will allow a bar and socket to get to the crank bolt. This way one person can torque the crank bolt to the 147lbs plus 90degrees the factory calls for and then easily recheck the torque every few months or so. In a few of the install threads I have read on the pulley the common theme is that it was a pain to tighten (Oh, thats good enough may have occured) and then no retightens ever occured eventually leading to a loose pulley. I will also check the bolt depth to make sure there is room for the bolt to be tightend without bottoming out...
Once I finish the tool I'll post a pic and my install results. My pulley is currently sitting on the work bench...
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After researching it thoroughly I think the trick to having the aluminum AMS pulley not grenade/wobble/come loose is to properly tighten it every few months and then possibly longer intervals. I am basing this on my experience with other parts where over time aluminium "compresses" to create gaps where it is bolted or riveted. When you rev the engine the pulley tries to "walk" up the belt putting a lot of pressure on the inside of the channel where it slides onto the crank snout. Over time this micro movement loosens the pulley and it starts to wobble creating more space and then eventually, well, search for the pictures...
I am working on a custom tool that will fit studs (with thin layer of rubber to prevent damage to pulley) into the pulley holes and will brace against the concrete floor but will allow a bar and socket to get to the crank bolt. This way one person can torque the crank bolt to the 147lbs plus 90degrees the factory calls for and then easily recheck the torque every few months or so. In a few of the install threads I have read on the pulley the common theme is that it was a pain to tighten (Oh, thats good enough may have occured) and then no retightens ever occured eventually leading to a loose pulley. I will also check the bolt depth to make sure there is room for the bolt to be tightend without bottoming out...
Once I finish the tool I'll post a pic and my install results. My pulley is currently sitting on the work bench...
I am working on a custom tool that will fit studs (with thin layer of rubber to prevent damage to pulley) into the pulley holes and will brace against the concrete floor but will allow a bar and socket to get to the crank bolt. This way one person can torque the crank bolt to the 147lbs plus 90degrees the factory calls for and then easily recheck the torque every few months or so. In a few of the install threads I have read on the pulley the common theme is that it was a pain to tighten (Oh, thats good enough may have occured) and then no retightens ever occured eventually leading to a loose pulley. I will also check the bolt depth to make sure there is room for the bolt to be tightend without bottoming out...
Once I finish the tool I'll post a pic and my install results. My pulley is currently sitting on the work bench...
Were you using this pulley on your 12.8 run??
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 221
Likes: 4
From: San Diego, CA
2005 C55 black on black aka DVS C55, 2007 C230 sport silver on black for the boss
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,165
Likes: 4
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 221
Likes: 4
From: San Diego, CA
2005 C55 black on black aka DVS C55, 2007 C230 sport silver on black for the boss
I was working on my tool to do one man balancer install and found this video to at least get started if you need to remove and replace your balancer. As you can see his custom tool isn't perfect but with a little work it can be pretty good.
Last edited by EDgineered; Feb 4, 2014 at 08:47 AM.
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2002 C32 AMG, 2013 GLK 350/4, 2015 E63S AMG Wagon
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 221
Likes: 4
From: San Diego, CA
2005 C55 black on black aka DVS C55, 2007 C230 sport silver on black for the boss
