When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2005 C55 black on black aka DVS C55, 2007 C230 sport silver on black for the boss
Originally Posted by swedepat
No clue at all..
If we can take a wild guess?..
Hooleyboy got in the 450-500hp range with a supercharger, full length headers, true full exhaust and other goodies. On Dragtimes he shows 449HP but I thought I saw a max of ~485HP in another thread for his 11.55 @120mph C55 WR pass (not posted on dragtimes, pass can be seen on YouTube). Not sure if he had the full top end port job like you though.... If you can find he did then you know your range. If he didn't you could make more but would need that full exhaust first...as you know its all about flow.
What is the size and boost pressure difference between the 55K stock unit and the Kleeman unit you have?
Yes,, iīve got full exhaust already
Iīve got an 2.2 litre compressor also,(differs a LOT in performance against newer compressors, to recognize a 2.2 setup?, look at the driveshaft, it has the waterpump built in into it at the very front of compressorsetup, the newer autorotos had 2.0litre and when autorotor went out of buisness kleemann replaced with the bad roots setup that had displacement of 1.84litre)
I ported the inlet in compressor as it was very rough(bad for flow)
Bigger throttlebody
bigger airmeter
Ported heads
Only thing i DON`T have is camshafts, but the std c55 camshafts are wilder than slr camshafts actually.
But that also means iīm spilling boost out the exhaust during overlap, but still,, i got 25psia boost.
And if you got the same boost on two different setups, one with mild camshafts and one with wild.
The wild setup will always give more power due to the thing youīre talking about, Flow!
And if you got the same boost it means the mass-flow is much more greater in the wild setup than in the mild.
550 at the wheels are no unreachable dream, but remember: I DO NOT CLAIM IīVE GOT THAT POWER!!!
Itīs just a rough guess, it could be more, it could be less, i actually donīt care to be honest.
(But it will always be people that cares about this more than me, so feel free to troll away suckers *lol*)
Well,, now itīs really really nice and smooth to drive.
AEM doing itīs job perfect.
No difference at all compared in drivability at an std c55.
But when hammering the pedal,, well,, be sure to expect turning the steeringwheel to keep the car in a descent straight line forwards.
Letīs say it like this: the car is 'tailhappy'.
I have logged the boost better now, it touches 26psia at almost whole revrange actually.
I adjusted rear wheel alignment this weekend to get more traction.
Well,, lame effort i must say *lol*
But one plus: the car became more stable and predictable at 'highspeed drifting' on third gear.
As known, to get best traction from standstill, you need dragtires.
But i though that it might keep up in third gear at least.
well,, it doesnīt.
My 285īs canīt take the torque at all.
I promise.. 0-60mph, the car is slower than std *lol*
Kind of an antiklimax actually *lol*
Movie coming when i ordered new tires,
No problems with the AEM unit.
But i had issues this summer with broken airmeter,cranksensor and mapsensor.
aem working just fine, rock solid air fuel ratio on full throttle.
A bit tricky to find the correct value in low and medium load where the closed loop is running.
but i got it to a state where longterm fuel trim keeps in the area of +-3%, and i must say,, thatīs as close as you get.
It took a while as i havenīt run it on a dyno yet, i have just road mapped it.
Performance is really good.
Only one little thing that is left to sort out, when slamming the throttle from say,, ~1300rpm there a little jerk then engine screams with no hesitation all the way up to limiter.
Iīm almost maxing out my 397cc injectors at 4.2bar(rated flow at 3.8bar)
and forgot,, lambda sensors went out too.
But that was my mistake, i gave it too much fuel.
And how the car is running.
well,, when antispin unactivated the car twists the rear from the torque all the way up to about 100Mph(car is unstable due to torque)
And a couple of rear tires worn out in about 4weeks with no burnouts... (285īs)
Just 'normal' wear when hitting the throttle and accelerating.
No timed runs done thou...
With risk to get my nose underwater,, but i was out testing yesterday, the last posts made me curios.
Itīs a couple of factors that make the result 'non accurate' but it will get you in the ballpark of where it is +-30hp or so.
I had with GPS 118.3Mph on quartermile(402.33m)
With my vehicle weight full tank,ice in trunk,heavier wheels etc etc 3850Lbs
And boost is as we speak a little low(23psi, should be 26psi) due to slip on the belt, need to change the belt, itīs well over due,, starts to tear up on the edges actually,, yes iīm lazy *lol*
but it has to do with the built in waterpump, a bit tricky.
Itīs actually that bad that the info display shows red and go to workshop alternator blah blah when pushing it hard a couple of times.
Well anyway,, donīt hit me!!
Calculator says ~507hp at the wheels.
Dutycycle on injectors says the same, about 570-590hp at crank.
Sounds and looks great! Why does it pause between shifts?
I think it's because i haven't repogrammed the TCU.
i have to release the throttle. Otherwise the esp light flashes insane and there's no power at all for a time.
in the video i timed it bad.
If doing it succesfully there's almost no pause.
And if better grip it doesn't pause at all either.
Long time ago.
Summerseason is near here in Sweden.
Been adding a few mods this winter.
Water/alcohol injection
ported the inletmanifold to get more airflow in the runners.
Modifyed it to accept dual injectors(a LOT of welding....)
Reprogrammed the TCU(Eurocharged)
Bluetop solenoids
Some mods to the valvepack.
Swapping cats from 200cell to 100cell
watertank:
a LOT of welding...
early stage testing:
Finished: (you can also notice the kleemann logo just disappeared)
In progress of swapping junk magnaflow cats to better ones and with less restriction, magnaflow were 200cell now itīs 100cell.
Finished product.
Why am i running dual injectors?
I got AEM piggyback as controldevice for the boost.
And i was struggeling with some jerks in highwaycruising in highwayspeed,, big jerks..
Very annoying
So i figured when have been reading a lot of log from OBD and AEM if i just run the AEM to control extra injection of fuel and only letting it disturb std ecu with ignition retard.
In this case the 'N/A engine' is controlled by the std ecu with no modifications at all to the fuelmap.
The AEM will only add fuel through extra injectors on boost.
When i was cruising the AFR could alter from 16-1 down to 13-1 in very fast oscillations.
This was not giving a pleasant drive in cruisecontrol.
The funny thing it only occured in cruisecontrol.
Target with my mods is more safety(waterinjection)
And more pleasant drive.
A bonus is that i might get som more power, but thatīs is secondary to my primary goal.
Yes.. iīve seen that movie, over and over again.
trying to measure the time between 2nd and 3rd gear to compare to mine.
And,, itīs a close call.
I got bigger wheels, but darnit.. mine seems to use less time bettween shifts
That can only mean more..... well.. letīs not say it out loud as it is a wild statement.
This summer due to trannymods i cannot compare to that one anymore.
Well, the trannymods.
Letīs say it like this: shifts are hard!!
Remember i also did som modding to the valvehousing.
In cruising in 'c mode' the shifts are harder yes, fine line to uncomfortable, but still bearable.
In sportmode and manual mode, the shifts are rock solid.. BAM!,, is a word that comes to my mind.
Forgot to mention, i also flushed the tranny twice this winter with fuchs dexron VI synthetic.
And when shifting with 'knobs' on steeringwheel, the latency is way less than before.
To describe:
When hitting button with a quick flick, the next chosen gear is changed at the same time i get my finger off the button.
Std took about three-four or more tenthīs of a second to do that.
Now the car feels a lot more like it should be, when comparing to BMWīs M3 shifting(DSG box).
When letting engine retard the speed and iīm going from 2nd to 1st gear.
It chirps the tires!!!?!?!
(only in manual mode thou)
I like your fabrication work on the water tank! Did you add any additional material to that area to support the weight of the tank? Hanging it off the fender liner with just those small screws would seem to be too much weight for it.
On pictures it isnīt 100% completed.
Actually this weekend is planned to complete it.
I will build a couple of brackets to support it from above.
It is also painted satinblack on the side heading against the wheel.
For a little bit more stealthy look.
Small mods to rear fenders only, rolled lip and small pieces cut away at the rear between bumper and fender, deleted inner wool protectionfender.
Rear 20x10" with 285/25
Small mods to inner plastic at front, heated and pushed away from wheel a bit only.
Front 20x8.5" with 235/30
Good year asymetric 2
4 persons in car, no rubbing
Still lowered about 15mm at front and 20mm at rear
Very interesting your transmission modification! Do you have more info and pics about your body valve modification. Did you try all your modification in same time?
I have blue top solenoid and downshift 2-1 are very hard with oem oil, I tried Amsoil ATF oil and the downshift are a bit softer but probably up shift to.
Very interesting your transmission modification! Do you have more info and pics about your body valve modification. Did you try all your modification in same time?
I have blue top solenoid and downshift 2-1 are very hard with oem oil, I tried Amsoil ATF oil and the downshift are a bit softer but probably up shift to.
Your modification are crazy
+1, I would like to know as well. Looking to improve my shifts as my next major mod. Definitely have blue tops on the list.
I did all mods at the same time unfortunatly.
A well known tuner in the states told me the mod to the valve package.
And i donīt want to tell anybody exactly what i did until i have tested it with full setup again.
to avoid locking rear tires when downshifting i have to blip the throttle to 'even out' the jerk.
remember i got 285 wide tires at rear so itīs quite harsch