insame1

I posted earlier about changing the motor and trans mount then getting a rubbing noise from the drivers front wheel. I have an appointment tomorrow to get that looked at. Now I have an ABS and check engine light that started on the second trip after changing the valve cover gaskets.

Anyone know what I could have knocked loose or any other ides?

Of course my code read is not working again but I am going to get the car scanned on the way home and then probably try a batter disconnect reset.

insame1

Well...tried to drive home but the car is in limp mode and has no speed indication so now I'm sitting in a parking lot waiting for a tow.

Morphh

That suks it could be something u unhooked, I feel for u, it's frustrating sometimes

insame1

thanks.

I pulled the codes today and got the p0720 code. I checked the 13 pin plug and its dry. I also checked the battery voltage and it is fine and charges when the car is on. Do you think my conductor plate failed with no warning?

I forgot to mention in my first post that I drove the car 10 miles after the valve cover change with no issues ore lights.

Morphh

It could have, just been reading and u can try cleaning brakes, brake dust build up might cause bad reading, or the conductor plate, how many miles on car. I would also double check all ur work u did with mounts valve covers, u might have knocked a sensor

insame1

So its up and running for now. I went over all the work I did and and unplugged and re-plugged in all the wires near anything I did while in the SAM unit I replaced all the small fuses related to ABS. This was all done with the battery unplugged also. I went for a test drive and turned the car on and off about 10 times with no returning faults. I also scanned the codes again and there are no pending or confirmed codes now. Fingers crossed.

Thanks to Morph for giving me some Ideas and following along.

ghiaguy

Good luck, hope the gremlins stay away!

insame1

No such luck. got to work today and as I was pulling in the parking lot the abs light came one. The code reader was unable to communicate with the abs system. Turned the car off and back on and the light was off for now. I am going to take it to a service shop today.

Morphh

What's happening with car? I hope all goes well.

insame1

It's at the shop now but they won't be able to look at it took tomorrow.

On a side note the loaned me a smart car. It has to be the worst car I have ever driven.

Morphh

That's to funny, thanks for reply on brakes, I'm doing some maitainence on my car, plm heat exchanger, front brakes, oil cooler gaskets, and just replaced my secondary air pump reley. Just waiting for better weather so I have been collecting parts
Let me know what happens with ur car, would u put headers on ur car?

insame1

I would if i could but I would no longer pass inspection in Austin TX.

insame1

Well... Its the conductor plate. $1050 quote for the repair.

Morphh

Wow u good with tools?
U can do it urself lots of write ups abt it, and videos
There is a kit the includes everything, conductor plate, plug, gasket, filter, and trans oil
Is the quote from stealership?

insame1

I am and have done the job before.

unfortunately that doesn't cover the rental car tow truck or the rest that has to be done with a star or like unit. the way I figure it out i am basically paying them $250 usd to not have to deal with it and get my car back today read to go.

no this is a local indy. I am sure it would be closer to 2k at the dealer.

ghiaguy

I had to do this a little over a year ago. Problem is that the parts are so pricey, not much can be saved when you are doing the labor. Also, might as well replace valve body and solenoids at the same time if they are originals... Good luck man!

insame1

Well that was 1100 dollars well spent. got the cat back and it ran fine for one day. Went to leave this morning and hit the abs light and p0720 code again. Of course the shop is closed till Monday.

Morphh

Wow sorry to here dude the suks, and they changed conductor plate, I read somewhere it could be brake dust in wheels, or speed sensor,it was on benzforum not mbworld,
I feel ur pain, u will figure it out

ghiaguy

holy crap, at least the tread title checks out. stay strong!

amgen

I´ve had the ABS, ESP-light and some other going on sometimes.

It turned out to be some connection issues with the connector at the
ABS/ESP unit under the hood, to the right if you stand in front of the car.
The ABS unit is the one with all the brake lines coming in to it.
The connector comes off by pulling up a plastic thing on top and then
pulling the connector backwards.

Still haven´t had it cleaned properly and the lights come on sometimes
and all I have to do is releasing the connector and put it back on. Have
to look into this issue when it gets a little warmer.

Maybe you touched it when doing the gasket work? Worth a try?

insame1

Thanks for the idea amgen. I had a brief look at it but it was in a garage at work. The strange thing is I only get the ABS light and a p0720 code. When it came back on this weekend, it shifted in to revers with a clunk and then the lights and code came back. Since then there has been no issue. I am going to take it back to the shop that had it and see what they say.

amgen

Sometimes only the ABS comes on, sometimes the ESP and sometimes
all of them and some more and the shifts turn more slippery. Sometimes
it gets into limp home mode... I then disconnetc the connector and put it
back on and all is fine again!

Have to clean the pins and females at the connector and check the lines
into it when it´s possible.

It was through a Mercedes shop who diagnosed where the problem was, but
they only sprayed some connectionfluid on to it but a couple of months later
the problem appeared again.

insame1

I took the car back in and the code for the conductor plate is still gone. (p2500 i believe) There has been no more lights since Saturday. After going through the initial scan codes and the ones from yesterday with the tech and reading the post from amgen I decided to clean the ABS unit, contacts on the plug, as well as change the battery. New battery went in yesterday and my slow cranking is fixed. I will clean the ABS unit and MAF (little bit of a rough idle) this weekend and see what happens.

Cloin

I was just going to recommend cleaning the MAF. Easy to get something down there if you aren't careful while your doing the valve covers.

amgen

A bad battery can be the cause of a lot of unpleasant stuff.

When cleaning the MAF, clean the snorkel too and of course the TB, as you
probably already are aware of. You´ll need a small mirrow too!

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...-cleaning.html