Post Evosport Stage I dyno
I notice that the air/fuel mixture drops from 12.0 at 5700 to 11.8 at 5800; 11.7 at 5900 and 11.5 at 6000. Any ideas?
I will post the printouts if anyone will tell me how.
You still had close to 40 RWHP added why were you bumbed?
Fuel makes the mixture cooler and less likely to detonate.
Enjoy your power. By the way, the fuel grade and temp can make a big difference.
Don
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Your car is FINE. The AMG Kompressor motors are known for a large discrepency in power. Some make well more than the claimed 349 stock while others make 10% less than the claimed number. The law states the car has the right to be 10% down on power and not be defective.
Your car is about spot on for power figures and remember Cali gas is = to donkey ****!
Some 5.5L Kompressor motors make 540hp stock while others make 469 hp. My fingers are crossed for my next car!
Run the numbers....340 is a great figure!
My guess it just needs some more miles.
Also the size and capacity of the dyno cooling fans is very important. If there is not enough cooling, DME will pull timing out at the top.
If you a chance e-mail or fax me your dyno run. Thanks.
You did a 12.9 stock quarter? Were you on a 6% downhill grade?
yes stock with just drag radials and on a official track not some g-tech time
A few comments about my pre and post-Evo mods runs: The barometric pressure was higher for the post-mods run (30.11 vs. 29.85 for the pre-mods run), the vapor pressure was higher for the post-mods run (.36 vs. .27 for the pre-mods run), the intake air temperature was higher for the post-mods run (71.3 F vs. 60.7 F for the pre-mods run), and the gear ratio was lower for the post-mods run (43.09 RPM/MPH vs. 61.19 RPM/MPH for the pre-mods run). As for the gear ratio issue, I had instructed the shop before both runs to do it in 3rd gear, as this is what I had read on the forum. Was one run done in 3rd and the other in 4th? Would any or all of these factors explain the relatively low HP gains from the pre to the post-mods dyno? I know that the 10 degree intake temperature difference would affect HP somewhat, but how much?
I realize that I am whining incessantly, but hopefully you all can understand my point. If I would have been happy with "30-something" additional HP, I would have just done the pulley.
It sounds like my dyno shop down here maybe was a little "clueless." In particular, I do not remember seeing any cooling fans placed in front of my vehicle at the time the test was being run. If the timing was retarded by the computer as a result of engine heating, this would certainly explain the low HP figure (and would also explain why my "seat of the pants" evaluation of the modded car is alot more than 37 HP). Also, it looks like they used "standard" HP figures instead of SAE and did the post-mods dyno in 4th (rather than the requested 3rd). I will take the car back for re-dyno in the next few days & will post. I never realized dyno testing was such a touchy issue. Hopefully, this info will help others to avoid my mistakes/problems!
(Pulleys + Powerchips + IC + SL55 full intake + Dual Exhaust <no mufflers> + 98 Octane + Gold Mobil One 0W50)
Weather: 20 c
Miles: 18750
I sent my own computer to Powerchips directly.
Last edited by simonlam168; Feb 26, 2004 at 09:35 PM.
1. weigh your car
2. goto a drag strip
3. get a mph in the 1/4
based on the weight and mph you get a very good reading of actual hp.
The dyno is a tuning tool, not a measure of your cars performance.
BTW: I have a heads/cam C5 corevette that only dynos 371 but runs 120 in the 1/4.


