CLK63 030 SLK brake upgrade
#26
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I wont have to worry about brake fade when iam tracking it.
#27
brake fade comes from either:
- boiled brake fluid
- cooked pads
I'm no expert, but I've had a fair bit of experience over the years. and have tried many different combos and had different track experience.
what I've learnt is:
- Pads are most important - get pads that suit the temp range that you'll be using them
- for Street just get a moderate pad, you'll rarely need a track capable pad. and the trade off at decreased cold braking isn't worth it. plus track pads tend to chew rotors
- if you track your car, just get a set of dedicated track pads, they'll last ages because you'll only put them in for track days
- get a brake fluid that has the highest boiling point, don't break the bank too much. but you'll feel the difference with a good quality fluid and properly flush out your old fluid. if you're changing the type of fluid (buy 2 bottles) fully flush a bottle of fluid through and use the second one to top up.
- rotors make hardly any difference to brake performance compared to the 2 points above. buy cheap rotors, not rubbish ones. but money is better spend on pads and fluid rather than fancy rotors. if you're running track pads rotors will become a consumable so its better if they're cheap. std rotor vs slotted vs cross drilled vs 2 piece, its all a much of a muchness. just ensure they're skimmed and aren't warped and you're good to go.
I've found:
std rotors to be okay
slotted are a minimal improvement (will produce more brake dust)
cross drilled - I've never had any crack, I think this is more problematic when drag racing and the rotor goes from cold to hot very quickly
2 piece, they look cool, but are $$$
- boiled brake fluid
- cooked pads
I'm no expert, but I've had a fair bit of experience over the years. and have tried many different combos and had different track experience.
what I've learnt is:
- Pads are most important - get pads that suit the temp range that you'll be using them
- for Street just get a moderate pad, you'll rarely need a track capable pad. and the trade off at decreased cold braking isn't worth it. plus track pads tend to chew rotors
- if you track your car, just get a set of dedicated track pads, they'll last ages because you'll only put them in for track days
- get a brake fluid that has the highest boiling point, don't break the bank too much. but you'll feel the difference with a good quality fluid and properly flush out your old fluid. if you're changing the type of fluid (buy 2 bottles) fully flush a bottle of fluid through and use the second one to top up.
- rotors make hardly any difference to brake performance compared to the 2 points above. buy cheap rotors, not rubbish ones. but money is better spend on pads and fluid rather than fancy rotors. if you're running track pads rotors will become a consumable so its better if they're cheap. std rotor vs slotted vs cross drilled vs 2 piece, its all a much of a muchness. just ensure they're skimmed and aren't warped and you're good to go.
I've found:
std rotors to be okay
slotted are a minimal improvement (will produce more brake dust)
cross drilled - I've never had any crack, I think this is more problematic when drag racing and the rotor goes from cold to hot very quickly
2 piece, they look cool, but are $$$
#31
Junior Member
For me, I just updated the rear with 4 piston and the brake balancement are very good. The car is more balance on high speed breaking and sit better. I have ebc yellow brake pads on 4 corner, ATE racing fluid and braided hoses.
6 piston are look very better, but 4 piston with race pads and good wider tires are the best way to go for track.
My father have a SLK 55 with 6 Piston and normal tire 225, seriously this brake setup is overkill the tires
But for the look ... I love them.
6 piston are look very better, but 4 piston with race pads and good wider tires are the best way to go for track.
My father have a SLK 55 with 6 Piston and normal tire 225, seriously this brake setup is overkill the tires
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#32
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C55 AMG
Got the CLK63 brakes on the front today.....and the wheels don't clear the calipers. I have a tiny bit that hits the inside of the wheel, but strangely I can turn the wheel 3/4 of a turn with no clearance issue. This is the same for both.
So my wheels aren't round or I have a problem with my hubs?
This is on stock C55 rims.....
Iam gutted.
So my wheels aren't round or I have a problem with my hubs?
This is on stock C55 rims.....
Iam gutted.
#35
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C55 AMG
Lenin ive just noticed you have the same brakes.
On my pads, I don't seem to have a hole in the pads to put the wear sensor in. That's on front and rear....
On my pads, I don't seem to have a hole in the pads to put the wear sensor in. That's on front and rear....
#36
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2002 C32 AMG, 2013 GLK 350/4, 2015 E63S AMG Wagon
Got the CLK63 brakes on the front today.....and the wheels don't clear the calipers. I have a tiny bit that hits the inside of the wheel, but strangely I can turn the wheel 3/4 of a turn with no clearance issue. This is the same for both.
So my wheels aren't round or I have a problem with my hubs?
This is on stock C55 rims.....
Iam gutted.
So my wheels aren't round or I have a problem with my hubs?
This is on stock C55 rims.....
Iam gutted.
#38
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C55 AMG
just to be clear. When you say "I can turn the wheel 3/4 of a turn" you mean spin the wheel? If that is the case, then it does sound like something is wrong with the geometry of your front end. Please confirm that you are not using any spacer and that your rims are perfectly flush on the hub. Make sure that to crap got stuck to the wheel and the hub. Very strange that both wheels exhibit this behavior.
Not using any spacer.....
I haven't completely torqued up the wheel bolts, but they are pretty tight with the wrench from boot, I was expecting to remove the wheels again, and obviously I cant drive it at the moment.
Im stumped because other people have fitted this and not had issues.
I will have a better look tomorrow, and try and take some pics from the back.
Thanks guys.
#39
drilled a hole and put the sensor in, I drove for a while without it but was sick of seeing the warning come up on the dash all the time.
#40
Super Member
These front pads don't have a hole but rather a slot like the C63 pads do. My front right side wheel has one sensor mounting with hardware and it takes a horse shoe like looking or triangle like type of sensor. My rear however uses a two wire single probe like sensor. Lucky my old one was reusable even though my brakes were shot but it hadn't shaved through the plastic on the sensor as yet so I reused it without any codes or warning lamps.
#41
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C55 AMG
Yeah, I got MB to send me the correct sensor for the fronts, all sorted now.
Ive changed the wheels to some CLK 63 18's, though they have been badly redfurbed and in black so I need to re-do them in titanium silver.
Ive changed the wheels to some CLK 63 18's, though they have been badly redfurbed and in black so I need to re-do them in titanium silver.
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C55 AMG
Not going to paint brand new calipers, very happy with the look in silver.
Like said, just going to sort the wheels out.
Yeah, they are still bedding in 100%, but they feel stronger for sure.
Like said, just going to sort the wheels out.
Yeah, they are still bedding in 100%, but they feel stronger for sure.