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My car is telling me there is brake wear. I went to get an estimate and they told me that I would need to replace the pads, sensor and rotors. I haven't had the rotors actually checked yet for wear (I will before I have any work done). But they told me because the rotors are so soft that they recommend replacing them. Do I really need to replace them if they aren't below spec? Also, does the sensor really need to be replaced at the same time?
Yes I searched, quickly but I did. LOL
I hear this "soft rotors" junk all the time. Check the rotors with a digital caliper. If they're good, keep using them, that's what I do.
The wear sensors are little thin pieces of wire that insert into the pad; if the brake sensor is saying replace, that means the wire has broken. The replacements are about $6 or so.
Exactly as Viper has mentioned. Check the rotor with a digital caliper, note that the hat on the rotor is stamped with a min. thickness.
Along with replacing pads if you diy, replacement sets usually do come with a new sensor.
Also, the sensor may be replaced at anytime you feel like.
Just did this job DIY recently, cost was under $200 for rotors, pads and sensors using OEM parts, one of the easier cars to do brakes on, at that price rotors were a no-brainer.
Mercedes pads are typically undersized for the rotor and create a lip around the edge of the rotor. If you don't resurface or replace your rotors the brakes will squeak because of it. A lot of places will not resurface drilled rotors.
I hear this "soft rotors" junk all the time. Check the rotors with a digital caliper. If they're good, keep using them, that's what I do.
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Someone needs to open his mind.
Mercedes factory rotors are surface hardened. That provides a good hard rotor that allows for decent wear while offering a bit of vibration and squeal resistance due to the softer core. That hardeness only runs about .015" deep. After that, the rotors are indeed soft.
When you get past that .030" depth of hardening (.015" per side) rotor wear accelerates quickly.
Brake components wear. You do not want pads and rotors that last forever because they'd never stop the car and the noise would be deafening.
Always measure the wear on your rotors and replace them when needed. C55 stuff is cheap. You should be glad our cars don't wear the new $1000+ per side rotors of the new large AMG cars.
As for the wear sensor, those are VERY elementary. Electrics 101 stuff.
The sensors have little pokey bits that are covered in plastic and stuffed into the brake pads. When the pads get worn down enough the sensor is exposed. Being soft plastic, the insulation is quickly eaten away by the spinning rotor. That exposes the little conductive wire and grounds the lead. When that happens it triggers a light on the dash.
I've been throwing Mercedes parts at techs for 15 years and operate my own machine/fabrication shop on the side. Mercedes brakes are something I'm rather familiar with. Who else do you know has stuffed all four corners of S55 brakes on a 1965 Plymouth?
Just did this job DIY recently, cost was under $200 for rotors, pads and sensors using OEM parts, one of the easier cars to do brakes on, at that price rotors were a no-brainer.
Mercedes pads are typically undersized for the rotor and create a lip around the edge of the rotor. If you don't resurface or replace your rotors the brakes will squeak because of it. A lot of places will not resurface drilled rotors.
I'm just getting around to this (obviously I don't drive it much LOL). Where did you find this stuff for under $200? Best I found was $240 for everything, including brake fluid.
Mercedes factory rotors are surface hardened. That provides a good hard rotor that allows for decent wear while offering a bit of vibration and squeal resistance due to the softer core. That hardeness only runs about .015" deep. After that, the rotors are indeed soft.
When you get past that .030" depth of hardening (.015" per side) rotor wear accelerates quickly.
Brake components wear. You do not want pads and rotors that last forever because they'd never stop the car and the noise would be deafening.
Always measure the wear on your rotors and replace them when needed. C55 stuff is cheap. You should be glad our cars don't wear the new $1000+ per side rotors of the new large AMG cars.
As for the wear sensor, those are VERY elementary. Electrics 101 stuff.
The sensors have little pokey bits that are covered in plastic and stuffed into the brake pads. When the pads get worn down enough the sensor is exposed. Being soft plastic, the insulation is quickly eaten away by the spinning rotor. That exposes the little conductive wire and grounds the lead. When that happens it triggers a light on the dash.
I've been throwing Mercedes parts at techs for 15 years and operate my own machine/fabrication shop on the side. Mercedes brakes are something I'm rather familiar with. Who else do you know has stuffed all four corners of S55 brakes on a 1965 Plymouth?
Thats crazy lol.
Question for you.
I have slk55 rotors and calipers on my c55.
Is it possible to run larger rotor with these caliper without doing any modifications?
It is not advisable to run larger rotors than the calipers were built to handle.
Calipers, pads, and rotors are designed to work as a team. The rotors are built for a specific diameter and width of rotor. Pads are built to fit a certain radius and diameter. Unlike what others think, pads are supposed to stop just short of the edges of the braking surface of a rotor.
The biggest problem I've run into with big brake upgrades is the lack of proper rotor height. You'll either have to pay big bucks for Black Series rotors or get multipiece Wilwoods.
CLK63, SLK55, and C55 brakes are ALL THE SAME SIZE. 330 mm diameter. The difference is that the SLK55 and CLK63 rotors are multi-piece.
CLK63 and SLK55 use part number 209-421-01-12. List price is $885 EACH. Dealer cost is $530. Aftermarket rotors are usually one piece and much cheaper.
CLK63 BLACK SERIES, CLK63 with 030 Performance package, and SLK55 with 030 performance package have the 360 mm brake rotors. 219-421-02-12 has a list price of $1020 and dealer cost of $610.00. Please note that it is a
219 number.
I've been selling these parts at a Mercedes dealer longer than those cars have been on the market. As a hot rodder and an experienced brake conversion installer I know a thing or two about the subject.
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