I am curious, my car is getting renntech springs put in them right now, and will my wheels have to be re-alligned or not?

Yes, an alignment is recommended and probably much needed after switching your springs.

Better let the springs settle down first. Usually alignment is done after a month or so. If you dont see the steering wheel off-centering, you dont HAVE to do it.

It is recommended but not always necessary. I'd only do it if you have a massive drop. The wheels might wear a little more on the inside.

what he said. my c32 had the cup kit, i took 'em out and put back the stock shocks with renntech springs.. car didn't require allignment even after settling in.

Come on guys. You need to realign the car after changing ride height. Raising or lower the car changes the toe and camber settings. Camber will increase negatively which is good but you cannot change this value in our cars, but the toe needs to be reset which is the only adjustment available. Tire wear will suffer in the long run, but most importantly, the turn in behavior of the car will be affected. For optimum performance, get an alignment.

19" tires are expensive... might as well get it aligned now at RENNTech and then later take it over to the shop I work at and we'll align it for you again if you feel the car is out of alignment a month or so later!!! Im dropping off my C32 at RENNTech next week for the springs also, Im going to have them align the car right afterwards!! Anyways, hope to see u 2night at towers ryan!!!

2 1/2 years after lowering mine with H&R springs I have never had it aligned. Since the car toes in when lowered it saves the inside of my front tires from excessive wear due too -1.5 degrees of camber. The way it is my outside edges and inside edges are wearing equally.

Granted it will turn in better with an alignment and some day I will have it done. Or since I am so cheap I might just set it in my garage and if it drives straight live with it.

How did you get 1.5 negative? I can only get 1.1 with the correction bolts. Every car is a little different in its tollerances.

I could be a 1/10 or two off since I never had it aligned. I calculated the camber using trigonometry. In any case it is more than enough since the inside of the tires wear as fast as the outsides.

The more negative camber you have, the more the inside tread will wear out faster than the outside. Start pushing the car hard in the turns for a few thousand miles and you will start to notice significantly more wear on the outside tread blocks.

Unless you car is level and you have the right guages, your mathematics could be off as much as .5 degrees which will put you right about standard camber of .75 - .90 with a lowered front suspension or a few more tenths with correction bolts. I could only get 2/10th out of the bolts.