Car is crabwalking/dogtracking
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2019
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W203 C32 amg
Car is crabwalking/dogtracking
Hit a curb a while back at a speed of 15 mph, replaced every arm in the rear including subframe and still didn’t fix the issue. Drove it as well and the axles made no noise.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Dhahran, KSA
2020 E 300 Coupe and 2019 GLS 400
I read somewhere that a wrong thrustline angle can cause that.
When you go for an alignment make sure they adjust the rear angle first, then the front.
Even better, go to a Mercedes dealer for an alignment. I have always had issues with alignments done by non-Mercedes dealers.
Good luck.
When you go for an alignment make sure they adjust the rear angle first, then the front.
Even better, go to a Mercedes dealer for an alignment. I have always had issues with alignments done by non-Mercedes dealers.
Good luck.
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Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 277
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From: Perth Australia
12 C200, 12 C180, 10 Fuso Warrior crew cab, 08 RTV ute, 05 Smart Fortwo cabrio, 09 Smart Fortwo
Did you change the hub?, I have done 2 cars now with bent rear suspension, it seams they bend everything from the hub to the crossmember with the slightest of taps.
Also when fitting the crossmember there is a little bit of wiggle room on the bolts, I have had to align the crossmember to the body on a coupe that was chewing tyres out after a change, measuring from the centre of the hub to a point in the body, was only out slightly but enough to make a difference when wheel aligning.
Also when fitting the crossmember there is a little bit of wiggle room on the bolts, I have had to align the crossmember to the body on a coupe that was chewing tyres out after a change, measuring from the centre of the hub to a point in the body, was only out slightly but enough to make a difference when wheel aligning.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2019
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W203 C32 amg
Did you change the hub?, I have done 2 cars now with bent rear suspension, it seams they bend everything from the hub to the crossmember with the slightest of taps.
Also when fitting the crossmember there is a little bit of wiggle room on the bolts, I have had to align the crossmember to the body on a coupe that was chewing tyres out after a change, measuring from the centre of the hub to a point in the body, was only out slightly but enough to make a difference when wheel aligning.
Also when fitting the crossmember there is a little bit of wiggle room on the bolts, I have had to align the crossmember to the body on a coupe that was chewing tyres out after a change, measuring from the centre of the hub to a point in the body, was only out slightly but enough to make a difference when wheel aligning.
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Thread Starter
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W203 C32 amg
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W203
Jcruz559
Do you have any data of the current wheel alignment setup? (i.e. how it is now with the crab-walk)
Camber, toe and Thrust angle? (also called cross camber, individual toe, cross toe etc.)
Also, do you have the current "vehicle level ready for driving" angles and ride height?
Do you have any data of the current wheel alignment setup? (i.e. how it is now with the crab-walk)
Camber, toe and Thrust angle? (also called cross camber, individual toe, cross toe etc.)
Also, do you have the current "vehicle level ready for driving" angles and ride height?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 67
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W203 C32 amg
[QUOTE=PJmak;8106327]The question is....how are your tires?
I had this issue on my w202 c43. Seemed to get better witn new tires and road force balance[/
The tires aren’t the best, but I’m not sure getting some new tires would fix much.
I had this issue on my w202 c43. Seemed to get better witn new tires and road force balance[/
The tires aren’t the best, but I’m not sure getting some new tires would fix much.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2019
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W203 C32 amg
Jcruz559
Do you have any data of the current wheel alignment setup? (i.e. how it is now with the crab-walk)
Camber, toe and Thrust angle? (also called cross camber, individual toe, cross toe etc.)
Also, do you have the current "vehicle level ready for driving" angles and ride height?
Do you have any data of the current wheel alignment setup? (i.e. how it is now with the crab-walk)
Camber, toe and Thrust angle? (also called cross camber, individual toe, cross toe etc.)
Also, do you have the current "vehicle level ready for driving" angles and ride height?
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 48
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W203
Jcruz559
OK, I know the w203 (including amg) is fairly sensitive when replacing suspension components. Especially if you are running narrow/wide config.
I think the best best is to get initial values from the alignment shop, even if they cannot adjust anything but supply the current values. Make sure that they have a laser (Hunter, Bean etc.). Dealer would be nice as they (should, but not always) have the correct OEM adaptors (5 hole). The OEM adaptors are less sensitive to a bent wheel.
When you replaced the components, did you make sure to tighten it "ready for driving" condition?
(i.e. you loosely tighten the bolts, drive the car +- 2 meters back and forward, on level surface. Do not jack up the car, tighten the bolts to correct spec without disturbing weight distribution on all four corners). Best outcome is on a four post lift or if you have a pit with level floors all around.
I do not know all the torque specs, but I think it is 70 N.m. for the smaller bolts and 110 (or 120) N.m. for the bigger bolt.
You have to double check the spec though.
If you did not have the crawling condition before with "cheap or worn" tires, than I would skip it for now. However, sitting for one year could result in flat-spots, unless you rotated regularly.
OK, I know the w203 (including amg) is fairly sensitive when replacing suspension components. Especially if you are running narrow/wide config.
I think the best best is to get initial values from the alignment shop, even if they cannot adjust anything but supply the current values. Make sure that they have a laser (Hunter, Bean etc.). Dealer would be nice as they (should, but not always) have the correct OEM adaptors (5 hole). The OEM adaptors are less sensitive to a bent wheel.
When you replaced the components, did you make sure to tighten it "ready for driving" condition?
(i.e. you loosely tighten the bolts, drive the car +- 2 meters back and forward, on level surface. Do not jack up the car, tighten the bolts to correct spec without disturbing weight distribution on all four corners). Best outcome is on a four post lift or if you have a pit with level floors all around.
I do not know all the torque specs, but I think it is 70 N.m. for the smaller bolts and 110 (or 120) N.m. for the bigger bolt.
You have to double check the spec though.
If you did not have the crawling condition before with "cheap or worn" tires, than I would skip it for now. However, sitting for one year could result in flat-spots, unless you rotated regularly.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 67
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W203 C32 amg
Jcruz559
OK, I know the w203 (including amg) is fairly sensitive when replacing suspension components. Especially if you are running narrow/wide config.
I think the best best is to get initial values from the alignment shop, even if they cannot adjust anything but supply the current values. Make sure that they have a laser (Hunter, Bean etc.). Dealer would be nice as they (should, but not always) have the correct OEM adaptors (5 hole). The OEM adaptors are less sensitive to a bent wheel.
When you replaced the components, did you make sure to tighten it "ready for driving" condition?
(i.e. you loosely tighten the bolts, drive the car +- 2 meters back and forward, on level surface. Do not jack up the car, tighten the bolts to correct spec without disturbing weight distribution on all four corners). Best outcome is on a four post lift or if you have a pit with level floors all around.
I do not know all the torque specs, but I think it is 70 N.m. for the smaller bolts and 110 (or 120) N.m. for the bigger bolt.
You have to double check the spec though.
If you did not have the crawling condition before with "cheap or worn" tires, than I would skip it for now. However, sitting for one year could result in flat-spots, unless you rotated regularly.
OK, I know the w203 (including amg) is fairly sensitive when replacing suspension components. Especially if you are running narrow/wide config.
I think the best best is to get initial values from the alignment shop, even if they cannot adjust anything but supply the current values. Make sure that they have a laser (Hunter, Bean etc.). Dealer would be nice as they (should, but not always) have the correct OEM adaptors (5 hole). The OEM adaptors are less sensitive to a bent wheel.
When you replaced the components, did you make sure to tighten it "ready for driving" condition?
(i.e. you loosely tighten the bolts, drive the car +- 2 meters back and forward, on level surface. Do not jack up the car, tighten the bolts to correct spec without disturbing weight distribution on all four corners). Best outcome is on a four post lift or if you have a pit with level floors all around.
I do not know all the torque specs, but I think it is 70 N.m. for the smaller bolts and 110 (or 120) N.m. for the bigger bolt.
You have to double check the spec though.
If you did not have the crawling condition before with "cheap or worn" tires, than I would skip it for now. However, sitting for one year could result in flat-spots, unless you rotated regularly.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 67
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W203 C32 amg
Okay so I figured out what was causing my car to be crabwalking. I purchased a crossmember from the junkyard to replace my bent one. But it turns out I replaced it with another bent crossmember. Are these all the same on all w203 models ? (55,32,230,320,etc.)
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W203
Did you ever resolved the issue? Was it cross-member or something else?
