Prasith32

HI,

Haven't been on this site for a while. Been very busy with some track days and started racing karts again to finish off the season up here.

But wanted to find out how the brake pads are holding up on your C32's. I am especially interested in hearing from the aggressive drivers and track/canyon addicts.

I am currently running through front brake pads at about 2-3 track days. I have been using the Porterfield R4 and the R4E and have been able to get 4 days out of the R4E and 2.5 days with the R4. That seems to be pretty low for me. I have even looked at my braking technique and that has been something that I have really been working on. Very rarely do I rely on ABS (only if the brakes are overheating do I even get into it) and I am quick on and quick off and have decreased the time that I am on the brake.

I find that when I trail brake my brake pad war is severely increased. I did one day where I did only straight line braking and the pad wear seemed ok then I went out to Watkins Glen for 2 days and did a lot of braking from 140 . This was on the first day and my brake pads seemed ok. Now on the second day I felt more comfortable with the track and started trail braking. I barely lasted two sessions. The last 25 - 30% of the pad (which is where I was beginning of the day) went in less than 2 x 20min sessions. I came back and my brakes were almost completely worn through.

Can anybody share their experiences with the brakes. I am trying to see if it is a problem with my braking system or if it is me or a combination.


Thanks,

Prasith


PS: Look for long detailed and boring writeups of the track days I have done recently and what I learned about the setup of this car. Coming very soon to a forum near you.

Zeppelin

The fact that the last 25 to 30% of your pads went quickly is not a surprise. If you are taking the car to the track you should probably not be running it with less than 50% pad remaining. The pad acts like a heat sink(as well as the caliper/rotor) and with very little pad remaining there is just not enough heat dissipating from the pads and they therefore wear quickly.

Anyway, a 3800lb car will go through brake pads, rotors, and tires very quickly.

Good Luck, glad to see there are still a few C32's left who track their car.

CynCarvin32

Hey,

Two things.

As Zepp said the last part of the brake pad will go always very quickly. This is totally normal and when you get down to near 50% you should have a spare set of pads with you at the track to ensure that you don’t get stuck with 2 sessions left and no brakes. Track driving should only be done with a pad that is 50% or new in life.

When you trail brake, you are asking the car to turn and brake at the same time. By doing this you actually are triggering the EBD system to keep brake application on longer than you may expect. Also, when the car brakes in a straight line the car divides the brake bias more towards the rear to keep pad wear more even but when you add in the trail braking the car uses the normal 75% 25% bias (vs the 60% 40% sometimes seen during straight line stops.

These two points should explain why your pads went away so quickly.

Any word on when you will be in So-Cal? Should SMG and I be picking and choosing some track days? Do we need to reserve you a boxster S (or 350z) rental for a day or two? Keep us posted.

TK32

I am about to track my car for the first time on a real track next week. (Have autocrossed it once, and have tracked an AMG Challenge C32 before.) I am concerned about my brakes, and starting the track with minimum 50% brake pad is what I have been hearing too. The question is: how do I tell if I have 50%? I have 5/16" front pad material left (1/2" total pad and backing) on the original front pads. Is that enough?

Since it is my first day out on a road course and I will probably not be as aggressive as some, and I am not committed to repeated tracking (yet), I will probably stick with stock pads.

Any input will be appreciated. Any other track prep tips too!

- TK

smgC32

If your measurements are accurate, than you pad material is approximatly equal to your backing plate thickness. This well below 50% and you should definately change your pads prior to tracking your car if you are going to see more than a few sessions on the track.

Hey Prasith, just put those Brembo on will you! It will solve your problem. Nice to see that the R4E's are living up to their reputation as a longer lasting pad. What has been your impressions in comparing the E's to the race 4's? I found they bite better initially. My Pagid Orange are fantastic, but do squeek all day long, which I have gotten used to.

Zep, did you kick some Butt onwillow in the CRX?

Zeppelin

Actually, I did. I won my class, got 10 points! (whatever that means). Still 18 seconds a lap behind the heavy hitters. Not fun to get blown by on the back straight by a Z06/Blown S2000/Evo doing 140mph plus. The C32 would be a blast at that track. Might just have to take it back there for the next event. You going to SOWS on Oct. 22nd?

TK32

OK, I picked up my new OEM front brake pads from MB today. A little guidance on install would be helpful.

I know how to remove the old pads: slide pins out, remove clip, slide pads out. Is intalling as simple as sliding them in? Do I have to move the pistons back to accomodate the larger pad? Just reach in and push?

What about the replacement sensors that seemed to have come with the new pads? Are they necessary to replace? How do I get to them and get them installed properly?

Any hints would be appreciated.

- TK

Prasith32

hey guys,

thanks for the reply on the brakes. Sorry I haven't been around work is killing me right now. I was hoping to be in California right about now but it doesn't seem like I will make it there until December. I think we should all do some karting when I get down there. I am not sure how many track events there will be at that time. Plus I am just such a bad driver that I wouldn't want to embarass myself.

Anyways I just did my last two track days for the year. The total for this year is 10. I was hoping to do more but hey not bad for a start.

About the brake pads. I really liked the R4 and I will get it again. It had a good initial bit and was pretty consistent. I really liked how progressively it faded and was good for my braking style. I am currently using Raybestos ST43 (their road racing formula). It is very interesting, first of all it is very expensive (219 for front sets). It looks spectacular and it had a very nice finish to it. I almost felt bad that I was about to whip this bad boy on the track.

Anyways I took them out on the road to bed them in and on a nice straight road took it up to 80 or so and braked. Oh my god I almost lost control of the car. The initial bite is so hard and the pedal travel so little that the tires started skidding. Hmm mental note better have some self control with that brake pedal. Finally something that forces me to be delicate with the brakes. Well I whipped it around for two days on NHIS (very brake intensive) and it held up well, very little fade and also I think I was overall faster than with the R4's. They also lasted very nicely and have a few more track days left in them. But I really didn't like the way they bit and I just couldn't feel the threshold. smgc32 - You should consider trying it as I would like to hear what you think of them.

However all things considered I prefer the R4's. They gripped very nicely and though they don't last that long I felt comfortable driving the car.

I hope to have some time and I am going to do a nice long boring writeup on what I learned this year tracking the wonderful C32.

Wow, I really blabbered for a bit. It must be that stash of Mr. Wiedermann's Smokes I found



Prasith




TK: Try doing a search for brake pad change a couple of people did a writeup on changing those. It is very easy.

Jon Winter

I'm working on cheap brake ducts. Air flow will decrease brake ware. Here is an example of the Porsche GT3 ducts.

Prasith32

Jon,

That sound very interesting but why did you pick the GT3 for the design. From what I have heard its brake ducting was not that optimal and that was the reason that the PCCB's were not working well on the GT3.

Prasith

Jon Winter

Prasith32,

This set-up is used on the Porsche GT3 Cup Car. They have steel discs. There is no room to install 3" hose for brake cooling on our cars. This set-up has worked well for Porsche.