Baby's first......Dyno!
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2004 Capri Blue C32
Baby's first......Dyno!
I finally got around to getting my car dyno'd today. The only mod I have done is the SL55 full intake. Other than that it is stock (unfortunately). The numbers today were:
1st Run
Max Power = 303.2
Max Torque = 290.4
2nd Run
Max Power = 295.8
Max Torque = 293.0
3rd Run
Max Power = 303.6
Max Torque = 291.7
A/F Ratio stayed about the same throughout--roughly between 14 - 12. Are these all pretty good numbers? I'm looking at pulleys and ECU next.
1st Run
Max Power = 303.2
Max Torque = 290.4
2nd Run
Max Power = 295.8
Max Torque = 293.0
3rd Run
Max Power = 303.6
Max Torque = 291.7
A/F Ratio stayed about the same throughout--roughly between 14 - 12. Are these all pretty good numbers? I'm looking at pulleys and ECU next.
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2004 Capri Blue C32
Someone here posted steps, and it worked for my car. Here are some notes I took while doing it:
Turn the key in Position 1 (not started);
Press the odometer reset button 3 times to enter the diagnostics menu;
Press the Up arrow button (left side of steering wheel) twice to scroll to the ESP Dynamometer Test screen;
Press the '+' button (right side of steering wheel) to turn it 'ON';
Start the car.
When the car starts, it will flash 'ESP not active', 'BAS not active', 'ABS not active' as a warning.
When I turned the car off, then on again it was still in Dyno mode so I had to turn it off manually ('W. Term. 15 OFF' (use the '-' button from the ESP Dynamometer Test screen)).
Hope that helps.......
Turn the key in Position 1 (not started);
Press the odometer reset button 3 times to enter the diagnostics menu;
Press the Up arrow button (left side of steering wheel) twice to scroll to the ESP Dynamometer Test screen;
Press the '+' button (right side of steering wheel) to turn it 'ON';
Start the car.
When the car starts, it will flash 'ESP not active', 'BAS not active', 'ABS not active' as a warning.
When I turned the car off, then on again it was still in Dyno mode so I had to turn it off manually ('W. Term. 15 OFF' (use the '-' button from the ESP Dynamometer Test screen)).
Hope that helps.......
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2004 Capri Blue C32
Questions for the experts here:
The first post in this thread shows my dyno results, including A/F ratio. Can anyone tell me if my A/F ratio is good or bad? If mine is not good, what's a good A/F ratio? I have the SL55 intake kit installed. If I install a pulley upgrade (before an ECU upgrade), how would that affect the A/F ratio as it is now? Sorry to make you guys think, but I obviously don't want to screw up my car and any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
The first post in this thread shows my dyno results, including A/F ratio. Can anyone tell me if my A/F ratio is good or bad? If mine is not good, what's a good A/F ratio? I have the SL55 intake kit installed. If I install a pulley upgrade (before an ECU upgrade), how would that affect the A/F ratio as it is now? Sorry to make you guys think, but I obviously don't want to screw up my car and any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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2004 C32 AMG
Originally Posted by jayitx
Questions for the experts here:
The first post in this thread shows my dyno results, including A/F ratio. Can anyone tell me if my A/F ratio is good or bad? If mine is not good, what's a good A/F ratio? I have the SL55 intake kit installed. If I install a pulley upgrade (before an ECU upgrade), how would that affect the A/F ratio as it is now? Sorry to make you guys think, but I obviously don't want to screw up my car and any help would be appreciated. Thanks!![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
The first post in this thread shows my dyno results, including A/F ratio. Can anyone tell me if my A/F ratio is good or bad? If mine is not good, what's a good A/F ratio? I have the SL55 intake kit installed. If I install a pulley upgrade (before an ECU upgrade), how would that affect the A/F ratio as it is now? Sorry to make you guys think, but I obviously don't want to screw up my car and any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
With Supercharged engines the A/F should be no higher than 12.5 at higher rpms -
With Normally aspirated engines, teh A/F should be no higher than 13.5 at higher rpms.
Your #s are good and strong. You can compare them with my 04 C32 stock dyno results - SAE corrected on a dynojet in 3rd (and dyno mode)
http://dynoperformance.com/search_details.php?ID=756
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2004 C32 AMG
Originally Posted by jayitx
Someone here posted steps, and it worked for my car. Here are some notes I took while doing it:
Turn the key in Position 1 (not started);
Press the odometer reset button 3 times to enter the diagnostics menu;
Press the Up arrow button (left side of steering wheel) twice to scroll to the ESP Dynamometer Test screen;
Press the '+' button (right side of steering wheel) to turn it 'ON';
Start the car.
When the car starts, it will flash 'ESP not active', 'BAS not active', 'ABS not active' as a warning.
When I turned the car off, then on again it was still in Dyno mode so I had to turn it off manually ('W. Term. 15 OFF' (use the '-' button from the ESP Dynamometer Test screen)).
Hope that helps.......
Turn the key in Position 1 (not started);
Press the odometer reset button 3 times to enter the diagnostics menu;
Press the Up arrow button (left side of steering wheel) twice to scroll to the ESP Dynamometer Test screen;
Press the '+' button (right side of steering wheel) to turn it 'ON';
Start the car.
When the car starts, it will flash 'ESP not active', 'BAS not active', 'ABS not active' as a warning.
When I turned the car off, then on again it was still in Dyno mode so I had to turn it off manually ('W. Term. 15 OFF' (use the '-' button from the ESP Dynamometer Test screen)).
Hope that helps.......
Also, when we dynoed a 03 CL600, the same exact steps work to put the vehicle in Dyno Mode. I'm sure the same goes for other 03/04 models
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04 CLK55, IWC CLS55 AMG(one of 55), 07 Honda CR-V 4WD
the result is somewhat inconsistent. There shouldn't be 8 hp gap in between the runs. with in 1 hp margin is generally acceptable. Next time, ask the guy to do it until 3 consecutive runs are close to each other.
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2004 Capri Blue C32
My brother-in-law owns a body shop, so I had him get the SL55 parts for me. I tried to order them through a dealer and they wanted almost $600, but my brother-in-law got them for me for around $300. I installed them myself...it's pretty easy. It took less than 1 hour. I just recently switched to K&N air filters too.
Unfortunately, I didn't dyno it before I put them in. But when I bring it to the dealer for service, I put the originals back in so I could dyno it in stock form.
Unfortunately, I didn't dyno it before I put them in. But when I bring it to the dealer for service, I put the originals back in so I could dyno it in stock form.
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Cars and boats!
any reason for you to dyno in 3rd gear instead of 4th gear? Also, did anything weird happen before/after you put ur car into Dynameter mode? My check engine light came on after i was ummm "messin around" with the car on Dynameter Test Mode.
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1996 C36 AMG, 1995 Volvo 850 Turbowagon
a/f ratio looks good... yeah, it should be whp. nice broad torque band!
n/a cars should give very consistent runs... witnessed a bmw 540i do 3 consecutive runs within 1 hp of 240 whp. 15% loss on auto tranny, very nice.
i also know turbo cars can be a ***** to run on dynos...with quite a difference if there isn't enough cool air... heat soak in ic can be a problem..
i wonder if same thing happens on sc'd cars??
n/a cars should give very consistent runs... witnessed a bmw 540i do 3 consecutive runs within 1 hp of 240 whp. 15% loss on auto tranny, very nice.
i also know turbo cars can be a ***** to run on dynos...with quite a difference if there isn't enough cool air... heat soak in ic can be a problem..
i wonder if same thing happens on sc'd cars??
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2004 C32 AMG
Originally Posted by steve s
a/f ratio looks good... yeah, it should be whp. nice broad torque band!
n/a cars should give very consistent runs... witnessed a bmw 540i do 3 consecutive runs within 1 hp of 240 whp. 15% loss on auto tranny, very nice.
i also know turbo cars can be a ***** to run on dynos...with quite a difference if there isn't enough cool air... heat soak in ic can be a problem..
i wonder if same thing happens on sc'd cars??
n/a cars should give very consistent runs... witnessed a bmw 540i do 3 consecutive runs within 1 hp of 240 whp. 15% loss on auto tranny, very nice.
i also know turbo cars can be a ***** to run on dynos...with quite a difference if there isn't enough cool air... heat soak in ic can be a problem..
i wonder if same thing happens on sc'd cars??
Here is a 3.4wHP variation on 2 dynoruns back to back - on a N/A Cobra:
http://dynoperformance.com/compare_d...D1=405&ID2=406
Depending on temperature, humidity, engine temp, etc, the hp/tq will vary from one dyno run to the next. Nothing to worry about
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