Engine rebuild or engine swap - what fits?
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From: San Antonio, TX
2005 C55 AMG
Engine rebuild or engine swap - what fits?
My oil consumption problem is getting to the point that I will have to do something about it very soon. The engine still has lots of power, but smokes on startup and WOT. Consumption is around 2 qts per 200 miles. I'm fairly certain the oil rings are shot and it's not the heads. Luckily, I've only driven the car about 8000 miles this year since I'm nice and close to work now. I really like the car and want to keep it. Anything else I like is in the $30k + range, so $10-15k project cost is acceptable. Of course, the salvaged engines are now running around $3500-5000. So - options...
A. Can the M113 block be honed and rings/pistons replaced? I'm under the impression that that won't work since it's an aluminum block with treated cylinders.
B. I can swap in either an na M113 or an M113K. Which engines fit and which don't? I know for a fact that the M113K from a W220 WON'T due to where the oil pump mounts on the block.
C. If I'm able to swap in an M113K, how do you tell the computer how to handle the supercharger clutch? Other as yet unknown issues? I know people have done it...
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D. for the win: M113K with a manual trans. Will the manual gearbox and clutch swap hold up to 500hp?
E. LS swap? ;-)
A. Can the M113 block be honed and rings/pistons replaced? I'm under the impression that that won't work since it's an aluminum block with treated cylinders.
B. I can swap in either an na M113 or an M113K. Which engines fit and which don't? I know for a fact that the M113K from a W220 WON'T due to where the oil pump mounts on the block.
C. If I'm able to swap in an M113K, how do you tell the computer how to handle the supercharger clutch? Other as yet unknown issues? I know people have done it...
------
D. for the win: M113K with a manual trans. Will the manual gearbox and clutch swap hold up to 500hp?
E. LS swap? ;-)
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From: Baltimore County, MD
'13 s212 63 p30. '06 LX470
Why not just buy a brand new used c55 or 03 plus e55 for your project cost? 10-15 will get you lots of choice. If it were me, I would only do this on a very low mileage car.
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From: San Antonio, TX
2005 C55 AMG
Yes, I've thought about that. They're somewhat hard to find (it took me a year to find this one after my first one was wrecked) and I've now had 2 for 2 C55s with bad engines (supposedly "bulletproof" M113s). I live in Texas so the black interior is not my favorite but is the most abundant (my silver car with black interior was WAY hotter in summer than the black car with beige interior). I'd also have to start over with the other things I've done to the car. Six of one, half dozen of the other I suppose but I know where I stand with this one. Also, I've already sent one of these rare beasts (1750 imported to the US and around 4000 worldwide) to the dismantler and don't want it to happen to another. I'd have to sell this one with a bad engine (kind of a hard sell) AND buy another car. The prices are also going up on these - for my budget, they're all around 150k-180k miles. A low mileage car is likely closer to $20k or more (for a 20 year old car) AND most of the AMGs of this era are located on either coast (mostly SoCal and Florida), so add another $1500-2000 for shipping. More money out the window, at least short term. If one comes up in the meantime I'll definitely consider it, but an engine rebuild or swap looks like the easiest and best option at this time. I can put a low mileage drivetrain in this car for $10-12k. Not much of a value add but I'm not particularly worried about resale - I just want to drive it for another 5-10 years.
Last edited by Spooky55; Mar 21, 2024 at 09:05 AM.
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C55 AMG
Yes you can hone, it is alusil though and that will be the biggest issue. Any M113(k) 5 or 5.5L block will work. Mercedes Swap Shop can handle the electronics, that who im doing my swap through and I'm also building and engine with upgraded valve springs and retainers.
Last edited by CGAMG; Mar 23, 2024 at 08:35 PM.
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From: San Antonio, TX
2005 C55 AMG
Thank you! The Mercedes Swap Shop looks like an excellent resource for the M113K and/or manual trans swap electronics.
As to honing the engine, WHY is the alusil the biggest issue? Is it too hard to hone normally, or will honing remove the surface treatment and wear out the engine sooner?
The M113K out of the W220 (and probably others) has the oil pump mounting bosses in a different location so the W203/W209 oil pan won't bolt to it so you can't simply relocate the oil pump. Do you know which cars are compatible?
As to honing the engine, WHY is the alusil the biggest issue? Is it too hard to hone normally, or will honing remove the surface treatment and wear out the engine sooner?
The M113K out of the W220 (and probably others) has the oil pump mounting bosses in a different location so the W203/W209 oil pan won't bolt to it so you can't simply relocate the oil pump. Do you know which cars are compatible?
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C55 AMG
Alusil engine blocks don't have a normal cross hatch like most engin5e, they have a matte finish, and require a special cutting paste. AN30 is what I've got from some Audi store. I've also had trouble find a professional shop that is willing to work on it. BES racing engine in Indiana will.
I got my block from an SLK 55. But you need to make sure you get the correct year block too. I believe it is 03 and up but don't quite me in that. I was fairly sure that almost all the short blocks are all the same and it's just to swap the windage tray, upper oil pan, pump, ect.
I did forget but you will run into issues finding connecting rod bearings for the supercharged varient as they are no longer in production. The N/A pistons have an extra oiling port and the boosted ones don't. You have 3 options, you can try to run the N/A ones, buy 2 sets of N/A bearings because only one side has the oiling port hole. Or buy the VRP trimetal. I'm on option 3 but I've been waiting since 9/14. Not too sure how well the other options would work out.
I got my block from an SLK 55. But you need to make sure you get the correct year block too. I believe it is 03 and up but don't quite me in that. I was fairly sure that almost all the short blocks are all the same and it's just to swap the windage tray, upper oil pan, pump, ect.
I did forget but you will run into issues finding connecting rod bearings for the supercharged varient as they are no longer in production. The N/A pistons have an extra oiling port and the boosted ones don't. You have 3 options, you can try to run the N/A ones, buy 2 sets of N/A bearings because only one side has the oiling port hole. Or buy the VRP trimetal. I'm on option 3 but I've been waiting since 9/14. Not too sure how well the other options would work out.
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95 SL600
Yes essentially rebuilding one of these engines is a costly endeavor. There are lots of 5.4 blocks on eBay, but none or few of them have main caps, which I can imagine would be an issue since the caps are machined with the block.
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C55 AMG
I got lucky and got the matching set for my block, if you know someone, you could get them machined for each other or just reuse your current block. I only got a spare block because this is my only car and I need to complete the swap in a weekend.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 249
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From: San Antonio, TX
2005 C55 AMG
I don't think I'd buy anything less than a complete engine on eBay. Buying another engine AND rebuilding it seems like a bad idea. I'm either going to rebuild mine or swap it out complete. I'm just wondering which is the best course of action.
What do you think about just replacing the pistons and rings and nevermind the block (provided of course there aren't any big scratches in the cylinder bores)?
Still a lot of expense since it is a total teardown, but if I can't find an engine shop to recondition it locally, I think shipping it out of state is probably going to blow the budget. I'll do $10-12k. Maybe even up to $15k, but any more is not worth it. Keep in mind this includes parts and labor, as I don't have a large enough garage to do an engine swap myself.
Just swapping the complete engine might be the best course. I have had 2 C55s with this same problem, so it would be a real roll of the dice if I get a good motor. I don't put a lot of faith in the M113s "bulletproof" reputation, but many others have not had any problems...
What do you think about just replacing the pistons and rings and nevermind the block (provided of course there aren't any big scratches in the cylinder bores)?
Still a lot of expense since it is a total teardown, but if I can't find an engine shop to recondition it locally, I think shipping it out of state is probably going to blow the budget. I'll do $10-12k. Maybe even up to $15k, but any more is not worth it. Keep in mind this includes parts and labor, as I don't have a large enough garage to do an engine swap myself.
Just swapping the complete engine might be the best course. I have had 2 C55s with this same problem, so it would be a real roll of the dice if I get a good motor. I don't put a lot of faith in the M113s "bulletproof" reputation, but many others have not had any problems...
Last edited by Spooky55; Mar 24, 2024 at 04:25 PM.
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C55 AMG
If you're not setting any horsepower records you could probably get away with just throwing it in. I got sucked into the while you're in there and ended up with a whipple kit. I'm also building the engine myself so the Whipple is the same cost as the rest of the the engine and trans build for me.
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post8950592
Sicamg resleeved his block with Dalton(?) sleeves and custom pistons.
Sicamg resleeved his block with Dalton(?) sleeves and custom pistons.
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From: San Antonio, TX
2005 C55 AMG
That would be the best option - basically a new motor. I however ended up finding a complete engine from a 2006 SLK55 with 105k on it. Not exactly low miles but the lowest I could find and 85k less than the car has on it now.
i had a shop run a compression and leakdown test and it looks like the current engine it pretty evenly worn out. Valve stem seals are shot, the valves are leaking slightly and the overall compression is down fairly evenly across all 8 cylinders - around 90 psi. It still runs strong and smooth but oil consumption is currently at 2 quarts per 150 miles. It smokes on startup and on hard acceleration and will typically start misfiring if my foot is really in it. It’s just worn out. It IS nearly 20 years old… So much for the M113 being “bulletproof.”
This replacement engine will be getting oil changes every 3-4000 miles and screw what the computer says. Maybe even diesel engine oil with zinc or moly to slow the wear.
Considering I acquired my first C55 for $6500 (salvage title) and got paid $10k by insurance and then bought this one for $8000, I’m still not in bad shape considering the old saying “there’s nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes…”
i had a shop run a compression and leakdown test and it looks like the current engine it pretty evenly worn out. Valve stem seals are shot, the valves are leaking slightly and the overall compression is down fairly evenly across all 8 cylinders - around 90 psi. It still runs strong and smooth but oil consumption is currently at 2 quarts per 150 miles. It smokes on startup and on hard acceleration and will typically start misfiring if my foot is really in it. It’s just worn out. It IS nearly 20 years old… So much for the M113 being “bulletproof.”
This replacement engine will be getting oil changes every 3-4000 miles and screw what the computer says. Maybe even diesel engine oil with zinc or moly to slow the wear.
Considering I acquired my first C55 for $6500 (salvage title) and got paid $10k by insurance and then bought this one for $8000, I’m still not in bad shape considering the old saying “there’s nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes…”
Last edited by Spooky55; Jun 28, 2024 at 12:14 PM.
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95 SL600
Plus the cost of main and rod bearings, timing chain and guides and tensioner, oil pump, head gaskets and bolts, cam bolts ( which are expensive) figure $7000 or more if yiu build the engine yourself. No thanks
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From: San Antonio, TX
2005 C55 AMG
I finally just went with an engine off ebay from a 2006 SLK55 with 105k miles on it. I had the rear main seal, the starter, the water pump, and plugs replaced. (The belt, tensioner, thermostat, crank, and cam position sensors were all fairly new, so they were swapped from the old engine). The engine had been sitting for 2 years, so when it fired up, there were a couple of stuck injectors. The EGR valve had gone bad as well as the secondary air injection switch. After swapping these out, it runs like a new car. WAY more power and no smoke. Total cost $8800.
Also just FYI, the pan did not need to be swapped out, as it is nearly the same. The rear oil drain plug is on the bottom instead of the side. This is a big plus to me since I once broke my finger by crushing it with my breaker bar when the stuck side mounted drain plug broke loose.
After this, I'll be changing the oil at a much smaller interval than the computer suggests and will also be running oil with high ZDDP like Rotella T6. Don't believe the "bulletproof" reputation these engines have - they DO wear out.
Next stop, an LSD (already purchased) and a 6 speed manual...
Also just FYI, the pan did not need to be swapped out, as it is nearly the same. The rear oil drain plug is on the bottom instead of the side. This is a big plus to me since I once broke my finger by crushing it with my breaker bar when the stuck side mounted drain plug broke loose.
After this, I'll be changing the oil at a much smaller interval than the computer suggests and will also be running oil with high ZDDP like Rotella T6. Don't believe the "bulletproof" reputation these engines have - they DO wear out.
Next stop, an LSD (already purchased) and a 6 speed manual...
Last edited by Spooky55; Aug 13, 2024 at 08:12 PM.
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From: Seattle, Warshington
2005 C55, 2006 Ram 2500 MegaCab diesel, sold 2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins, sold 87 190e-16v, sold 97 e420
LS or Hemi swap! And why do a manual swap, you are better with the 7sp. The manual won't hold for long under power and is slower shifting!
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From: San Antonio, TX
2005 C55 AMG
The C55 had the 5 speed trans.
As to the durability of the manual, others have done it on the C55 and it seems to hold up. I'm a purist and have always preferred the control of 3 pedals. I am slowly collecting the parts for the swap. So far, I have the correct shifter and pedals. I'll acquire a Crossfire or 320/350 manual trans when I get closer to actually doing it. As to slower shifting than a 5 speed slushbox, that's debatable - It's not a modern dual-clutch. A manual will DEFINITELY be faster off the line with the adaptive garbage and torque converter slip. The only real advantage in the automatic (besides possibly stronger internals) is that it's more consistent in bracket racing but there's no drag strip near where I live.
Last edited by Spooky55; Sep 12, 2025 at 05:28 PM.
