A few questions about the C43 please...
#1
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A few questions about the C43 please...
Disclaimer: Yes, I'm new. Yes I used the search function before making this post.
A few moments of your time as I introduce myself and try to figure something out, please...
Good day to all of you. I come from "Audi-land" having owned a '99 Passat 1.8T (Audi-powered), an Audi S4, and currently an Audi A6...
Currently, I am in the market for another car to be purchased in the next 2-3 weeks. I sold my other car a couple weeks ago, so I'm looking for something to replace it--while driving the A6 daily as usual. I am seriously considering the following cars:
--Air-cooled Porsche 911s (964+993 series from '89-'96 only), the BMW M3 (E36+E46), and the C43 as my next pleasure/sports car.
Call me weird or whatever, but I want my next car to be something relatively rare. AMG-powered cars, M-powered cars, and air-cooled Porsche 911s hold that "rarity" thing up well--so I'm only interested in these.
I have to be honest with you guys by saying that I didn't even consider a C43 (or any other M-B) until last week, and only then because it's an AMG.
A very good friend of mine used to be the service manager for Prestige Mercedes in Paramus, NJ, but has since moved onto other things, is who actually started all of this and reminded me that AMG cars are an option even though they have Auto transmissions.
The point is that I trust this friend of mine and the people he knows. He knows his stuff when it comes to Benz's. To be honest, he loves M-B cars, but doesn't so much like their little electrical gremlins, etc. (Though electrical gremlins are pretty much present in ANY European car that I've seen lately)... so he's not very quick to recommend a Mercedes to just anyone who he knows can't afford the maintenance on them--in fact, he just laughs at people who get Mercedes cars and can't afford the upkeep.
That said, as him and I were talking about my M3 + 911 search last week, he expanded on our conversation about M3's and ended up asking me if I had ever considered a C36 or C43. I said "no", so he started telling me about them and I liked what I heard. He said that they were actually pretty good cars in terms of electrical reliability, etc, but he's heard of (but not witnessed) some pretty bad transmission problems...
So this past week, I've been doing a lot of research on the C36 and the C43 and figured I'd probably go with the C43 if anything as the 4.3 V8 doesn't seem to be a motor that has to work quite as hard as the C36's motor does. While working with turbocharged cars with high-boost applications over the past several years, I've learned more than anything that a smaller, harder-working motor simply won't last as long as a similarly-powered motor of bigger displacement...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, now you know why I'm considering the C43. Being that it's the only car with an automatic transmission that I'd consider buying, I am seriously concerned with how that Auto out of the SL500 holds up when mated with these cars?
My friend said that over the past few years, he can't recall a C36 or C43 coming into Prestige M-B that needed a new transmission. However, I think of it like this... If I'm correct, there are only ~1500 C43s and ~200 C36s in existence in the US anyway, so what are the odds of one of them going to HIS shop with a problem? Not high at all considering how few were produced...
So my questions to you guys (and girls?) are:
-Is short transmission life a problem in the C43? If so, does anyone have any access to numbers on it in terms of failure or repair so I can see how often this is? I wouldn't think it's all THAT hard to keep track of 1500 specially-produced cars.
-If the transmission IS a problem, how can that be? Isn't it the SL500 transmission? How is it suddenly so problematic when stuffed into the C43? Can a transmission be directly swapped from an SL into a C43 or are there little differences?
-What other "signature" problems are found in the C43?
-As far as timing is concered, does it use a belt or a chain?
Just as air-cooled 911s have dual-mass flywheel problems, S4's have turbo and ignition control problems, 1.8T's have coil-pack problems, et cetera... I'm sure the C43 has its own isolated problems that I'd like to be aware of before I go trying to purchase one.
Anyway, sorry that my first post was so long. I didn't want to write a novel, but I wanted to be thorough. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Hopefully you guys can help me out here and give me a little direction...
Thanks in advance!
Harry
A few moments of your time as I introduce myself and try to figure something out, please...
Good day to all of you. I come from "Audi-land" having owned a '99 Passat 1.8T (Audi-powered), an Audi S4, and currently an Audi A6...
Currently, I am in the market for another car to be purchased in the next 2-3 weeks. I sold my other car a couple weeks ago, so I'm looking for something to replace it--while driving the A6 daily as usual. I am seriously considering the following cars:
--Air-cooled Porsche 911s (964+993 series from '89-'96 only), the BMW M3 (E36+E46), and the C43 as my next pleasure/sports car.
Call me weird or whatever, but I want my next car to be something relatively rare. AMG-powered cars, M-powered cars, and air-cooled Porsche 911s hold that "rarity" thing up well--so I'm only interested in these.
I have to be honest with you guys by saying that I didn't even consider a C43 (or any other M-B) until last week, and only then because it's an AMG.
A very good friend of mine used to be the service manager for Prestige Mercedes in Paramus, NJ, but has since moved onto other things, is who actually started all of this and reminded me that AMG cars are an option even though they have Auto transmissions.
The point is that I trust this friend of mine and the people he knows. He knows his stuff when it comes to Benz's. To be honest, he loves M-B cars, but doesn't so much like their little electrical gremlins, etc. (Though electrical gremlins are pretty much present in ANY European car that I've seen lately)... so he's not very quick to recommend a Mercedes to just anyone who he knows can't afford the maintenance on them--in fact, he just laughs at people who get Mercedes cars and can't afford the upkeep.
That said, as him and I were talking about my M3 + 911 search last week, he expanded on our conversation about M3's and ended up asking me if I had ever considered a C36 or C43. I said "no", so he started telling me about them and I liked what I heard. He said that they were actually pretty good cars in terms of electrical reliability, etc, but he's heard of (but not witnessed) some pretty bad transmission problems...
So this past week, I've been doing a lot of research on the C36 and the C43 and figured I'd probably go with the C43 if anything as the 4.3 V8 doesn't seem to be a motor that has to work quite as hard as the C36's motor does. While working with turbocharged cars with high-boost applications over the past several years, I've learned more than anything that a smaller, harder-working motor simply won't last as long as a similarly-powered motor of bigger displacement...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, now you know why I'm considering the C43. Being that it's the only car with an automatic transmission that I'd consider buying, I am seriously concerned with how that Auto out of the SL500 holds up when mated with these cars?
My friend said that over the past few years, he can't recall a C36 or C43 coming into Prestige M-B that needed a new transmission. However, I think of it like this... If I'm correct, there are only ~1500 C43s and ~200 C36s in existence in the US anyway, so what are the odds of one of them going to HIS shop with a problem? Not high at all considering how few were produced...
So my questions to you guys (and girls?) are:
-Is short transmission life a problem in the C43? If so, does anyone have any access to numbers on it in terms of failure or repair so I can see how often this is? I wouldn't think it's all THAT hard to keep track of 1500 specially-produced cars.
-If the transmission IS a problem, how can that be? Isn't it the SL500 transmission? How is it suddenly so problematic when stuffed into the C43? Can a transmission be directly swapped from an SL into a C43 or are there little differences?
-What other "signature" problems are found in the C43?
-As far as timing is concered, does it use a belt or a chain?
Just as air-cooled 911s have dual-mass flywheel problems, S4's have turbo and ignition control problems, 1.8T's have coil-pack problems, et cetera... I'm sure the C43 has its own isolated problems that I'd like to be aware of before I go trying to purchase one.
Anyway, sorry that my first post was so long. I didn't want to write a novel, but I wanted to be thorough. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Hopefully you guys can help me out here and give me a little direction...
Thanks in advance!
Harry
Last edited by Euromagination; 03-28-2005 at 12:48 PM.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Common problems on the 99 C43 that I have either experienced personally or read about in the various MB forums are:
1) Driver's orthopedic seat fails often. Mine was repaired under warranty 3 times before I screamed and they replaced the entire system (the fault is a plastic y-joint that won't hold the plastic air tubes).
2) Transmission has been a problem for some, however, every owner who has changed the transmission fluid regularly (at least every 40K) has not had a problem. Also, apparently MB has an updated transmission program for the C43 so you should, as I did, check with the dealer to get the tranny computer flashed if it has not yet been done.
3) People have complained about the front lower control arm bushings and ball joints wearing prematurely at 60K miles. This hasn't happened to me, but I am now redoing my control arm bushings with poly bushings, 190E sport line bushings and replacing the ball joints. I have also replaced the outer front sway bar bushings with delrin bushings as some enthusiats have done to reduce dive when initiating a turn.
4) One guy complained of needing a valve job at 70K miles. This has not happened to me or anyone else on the boards that I've noticed. Use full synthetics and change your oil and filter at least every 5K miles. Some change it more frequently (it couldn't hurt). The C43 has a single timing chain and I have not heard at what milage this will have to be replaced. However, as with all past benz V8's you should start thinking about doing that job around 120k to 180k miles. (In my case, instead of doing any of that long term maintenance work to my 43 engine, I'm simply going to replace it with a low milage 55 engine, being sure to include the E55 engine computer. Head gaskets seem to hold indefinately on these engines.
5) I had my electronic climate control unit replaced under warranty for a faulty LED display. Many have complained about problems with these after 60K miles.
6) My A/C compressor, condenser and evaporator were replaced under warranty at 80K miles due to a leak in the compressor. I had the radiator replaced under warranty at that time as well for a spot of aluminum rot appearing on its lower right corner. When driving, the car now will never go beyond 80 deg. c. (a two to three degree improvement). While idleing, however, the temp. can climb.
7) Stock C43 brakes are very expensive to maintain with Benz parts and except for pads, no one makes parts that fit these brakes, so eventually it may be cost effective to install a Brembo or other big brake kit. Enthusiasts on the board note that the C43 brakes are extremely heavy and that the car would benefit from using lighter calipers and rotors. The AMG wheels are also very heavy and soft.
8) I changed the accessory drive belt, idle pully and belt tensioner at 70K miles to avoid problems with the water pump, alt., etc. down the road.
I think the C43 simply needs stricter maintenance than other MB's -- if I think of anything else, I'll repost.
1) Driver's orthopedic seat fails often. Mine was repaired under warranty 3 times before I screamed and they replaced the entire system (the fault is a plastic y-joint that won't hold the plastic air tubes).
2) Transmission has been a problem for some, however, every owner who has changed the transmission fluid regularly (at least every 40K) has not had a problem. Also, apparently MB has an updated transmission program for the C43 so you should, as I did, check with the dealer to get the tranny computer flashed if it has not yet been done.
3) People have complained about the front lower control arm bushings and ball joints wearing prematurely at 60K miles. This hasn't happened to me, but I am now redoing my control arm bushings with poly bushings, 190E sport line bushings and replacing the ball joints. I have also replaced the outer front sway bar bushings with delrin bushings as some enthusiats have done to reduce dive when initiating a turn.
4) One guy complained of needing a valve job at 70K miles. This has not happened to me or anyone else on the boards that I've noticed. Use full synthetics and change your oil and filter at least every 5K miles. Some change it more frequently (it couldn't hurt). The C43 has a single timing chain and I have not heard at what milage this will have to be replaced. However, as with all past benz V8's you should start thinking about doing that job around 120k to 180k miles. (In my case, instead of doing any of that long term maintenance work to my 43 engine, I'm simply going to replace it with a low milage 55 engine, being sure to include the E55 engine computer. Head gaskets seem to hold indefinately on these engines.
5) I had my electronic climate control unit replaced under warranty for a faulty LED display. Many have complained about problems with these after 60K miles.
6) My A/C compressor, condenser and evaporator were replaced under warranty at 80K miles due to a leak in the compressor. I had the radiator replaced under warranty at that time as well for a spot of aluminum rot appearing on its lower right corner. When driving, the car now will never go beyond 80 deg. c. (a two to three degree improvement). While idleing, however, the temp. can climb.
7) Stock C43 brakes are very expensive to maintain with Benz parts and except for pads, no one makes parts that fit these brakes, so eventually it may be cost effective to install a Brembo or other big brake kit. Enthusiasts on the board note that the C43 brakes are extremely heavy and that the car would benefit from using lighter calipers and rotors. The AMG wheels are also very heavy and soft.
8) I changed the accessory drive belt, idle pully and belt tensioner at 70K miles to avoid problems with the water pump, alt., etc. down the road.
I think the C43 simply needs stricter maintenance than other MB's -- if I think of anything else, I'll repost.
Last edited by Tump43; 03-29-2005 at 05:43 AM.
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Tump43
Common problems on the 99 C43 that I have either experienced personally or read about in the various MB forums are:
1) Driver's orthopedic seat fails often. Mine was repaired under warranty 3 times before I screamed and they replaced the entire system (the fault is a plastic y-joint that won't hold the plastic air tubes).
2) Transmission has been a problem for some, however, every owner who has changed the transmission fluid regularly (at least every 40K) has not had a problem. Also, apparently MB has an updated transmission program for the C43 so you should, as I did, check with the dealer to get the tranny computer flashed if it has not yet been done.
3) People have complained about the front lower control arm bushings and ball joints wearing prematurely at 60K miles. This hasn't happened to me, but I am now redoing my control arm bushings with poly bushings, 190E sport line bushings and replacing the ball joints. I have also replaced the outer front sway bar bushings with delrin bushings as some enthusiats have done to reduce dive when initiating a turn.
4) One guy complained of needing a valve job at 70K miles. This has not happened to me or anyone else on the boards that I've noticed. Use full synthetics and change your oil and filter at least every 5K miles. Some change it more frequently (it couldn't hurt). The C43 has a single timing chain and I have not heard at what milage this will have to be replaced. However, as with all past benz V8's you should start thinking about doing that job around 120k to 180k miles. (In my case, instead of doing any of that long term maintenance work to my 43 engine, I'm simply going to replace it with a low milage 55 engine, being sure to include the E55 engine computer. Head gaskets seem to hold indefinately on these engines.
5) I had my electronic climate control unit replaced under warranty for a faulty LED display. Many have complained about problems with these after 60K miles.
6) My A/C compressor, condenser and evaporator were replaced under warranty at 80K miles due to a leak in the compressor. I had the radiator replaced under warranty at that time as well for a spot of aluminum rot appearing on its lower right corner. When driving, the car now will never go beyond 80 deg. c. (a two to three degree improvement). While idleing, however, the temp. can climb.
7) Stock C43 brakes are very expensive to maintain with Benz parts and except for pads, no one makes parts that fit these brakes, so eventually it may be cost effective to install a Brembo or other big brake kit. Enthusiasts on the board note that the C43 brakes are extremely heavy and that the car would benefit from using lighter calipers and rotors. The AMG wheels are also very heavy and soft.
8) I changed the accessory drive belt, idle pully and belt tensioner at 70K miles to avoid problems with the water pump, alt., etc. down the road.
I think the C43 simply needs stricter maintenance than other MB's -- if I think of anything else, I'll repost.
1) Driver's orthopedic seat fails often. Mine was repaired under warranty 3 times before I screamed and they replaced the entire system (the fault is a plastic y-joint that won't hold the plastic air tubes).
2) Transmission has been a problem for some, however, every owner who has changed the transmission fluid regularly (at least every 40K) has not had a problem. Also, apparently MB has an updated transmission program for the C43 so you should, as I did, check with the dealer to get the tranny computer flashed if it has not yet been done.
3) People have complained about the front lower control arm bushings and ball joints wearing prematurely at 60K miles. This hasn't happened to me, but I am now redoing my control arm bushings with poly bushings, 190E sport line bushings and replacing the ball joints. I have also replaced the outer front sway bar bushings with delrin bushings as some enthusiats have done to reduce dive when initiating a turn.
4) One guy complained of needing a valve job at 70K miles. This has not happened to me or anyone else on the boards that I've noticed. Use full synthetics and change your oil and filter at least every 5K miles. Some change it more frequently (it couldn't hurt). The C43 has a single timing chain and I have not heard at what milage this will have to be replaced. However, as with all past benz V8's you should start thinking about doing that job around 120k to 180k miles. (In my case, instead of doing any of that long term maintenance work to my 43 engine, I'm simply going to replace it with a low milage 55 engine, being sure to include the E55 engine computer. Head gaskets seem to hold indefinately on these engines.
5) I had my electronic climate control unit replaced under warranty for a faulty LED display. Many have complained about problems with these after 60K miles.
6) My A/C compressor, condenser and evaporator were replaced under warranty at 80K miles due to a leak in the compressor. I had the radiator replaced under warranty at that time as well for a spot of aluminum rot appearing on its lower right corner. When driving, the car now will never go beyond 80 deg. c. (a two to three degree improvement). While idleing, however, the temp. can climb.
7) Stock C43 brakes are very expensive to maintain with Benz parts and except for pads, no one makes parts that fit these brakes, so eventually it may be cost effective to install a Brembo or other big brake kit. Enthusiasts on the board note that the C43 brakes are extremely heavy and that the car would benefit from using lighter calipers and rotors. The AMG wheels are also very heavy and soft.
8) I changed the accessory drive belt, idle pully and belt tensioner at 70K miles to avoid problems with the water pump, alt., etc. down the road.
I think the C43 simply needs stricter maintenance than other MB's -- if I think of anything else, I'll repost.
Last edited by ProjectC55; 03-29-2005 at 06:42 AM.
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Euromagination
However, I think of it like this... If I'm correct, there are only ~1500 C43s and ~200 C36s in existence in the US anyway, so what are the odds of one of them going to HIS shop with a problem? Not high at all considering how few were produced...
Not much to add to the thread, except "official" sales numbers for the C36 and C43 (taken from MBUSA website):
C36
1995 - 444
1996 - 338
1997 - 236
C43
1998 - 579
1999 - 546
2000 - edit - unknown sales as is not listed on MBUSA
Hope this helps!
Last edited by Chappy; 03-29-2005 at 02:17 PM.
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by MBCLK60
Chappy-
you mention 2000 C43 was not offered in the US?? I just purchased one in Colorado.
you mention 2000 C43 was not offered in the US?? I just purchased one in Colorado.
http://www.mbusa.com/brand/container...45678&menu=6_0
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Chappy
Interesting. It is not listed as being offered here:
http://www.mbusa.com/brand/container...45678&menu=6_0
http://www.mbusa.com/brand/container...45678&menu=6_0
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by coolcarlskiC43
yea there out there Chappy.They also come with the 5 star AMG monoblocks from the CLK430. (Looks better on the CLK)..That was also the last yr for the rare 2k C43.
I wonder why it is not listed on their website?
In any event, congrats to those lucky few who have possession of a 2000 C43. Were there any other changes (other than the wheels) in contrast to the 1998s or 1999s?
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Chappy
Great info, thanks! I've been in conversation today with an AMG expert who confirmed that the 2000 did exist.
I wonder why it is not listed on their website?
In any event, congrats to those lucky few who have possession of a 2000 C43. Were there any other changes (other than the wheels) in contrast to the 1998s or 1999s?
I wonder why it is not listed on their website?
In any event, congrats to those lucky few who have possession of a 2000 C43. Were there any other changes (other than the wheels) in contrast to the 1998s or 1999s?
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Carl -- yes I have to come visit you to check out your car. I'm dying to see it.
Let me know if your guy could email me a list of parts needed for the conversion to tiptronic and when he could install this for me. I already have the 202 tiptronic tranny box. I do not have the LCD display that indicates the current gear and the time in the lower right of the cluster (as per the 2000 and up AMG's).
I'll be going for the 55 conversion in the next year or so.
Euromagination -- Here are a couple of other common problems with the C43 and all other 202's.
9) The 202 gas gauge goes funny at high mileage usually due to the fuel level senders wearing out. MB now has updated fuel lever senders that are gold plated to resist corrosion from poor US gas. I had these changed out on mine purs. to warranty.
10) Also, the gas cap wears out and causes your fuel reserve light to blink maddly when you have plenty of gas. I bought a new fuel cap and reused the old attachment strap.
11) The fuel filter on a 202 should be changed ever 20K miles not every 60K as Benz may recomend. When I changed mine I got 40 to 60 more miles per tank before hitting reserve. With three tanks a week for me, the $30 filter paid for itself in a week.
12) Some have complained about the cluster gauge needles sticking. Apparently the cluster need to be removed and the needles need to be delicately cleaned with alcohool. Hasn't happened to me.
Ohh, and I do not know a thing about performance chips. Many enthusiasts swear that they do not do a thing to improve the car's performance and some members of these forums love them. You are on your own, however, I would tend to stay away from performance chips and spend my money on improving handling and driving lessons. Like buying a Kleeman limited slip differential conversion kit, lighter wheels, wider tires necessitating a litle fender rolling and/or flaring, evo sport under drive pullies, better plugs, better wires, better brake pads, better and lower springs, appropriately valved shocks, etc.
Later
Let me know if your guy could email me a list of parts needed for the conversion to tiptronic and when he could install this for me. I already have the 202 tiptronic tranny box. I do not have the LCD display that indicates the current gear and the time in the lower right of the cluster (as per the 2000 and up AMG's).
I'll be going for the 55 conversion in the next year or so.
Euromagination -- Here are a couple of other common problems with the C43 and all other 202's.
9) The 202 gas gauge goes funny at high mileage usually due to the fuel level senders wearing out. MB now has updated fuel lever senders that are gold plated to resist corrosion from poor US gas. I had these changed out on mine purs. to warranty.
10) Also, the gas cap wears out and causes your fuel reserve light to blink maddly when you have plenty of gas. I bought a new fuel cap and reused the old attachment strap.
11) The fuel filter on a 202 should be changed ever 20K miles not every 60K as Benz may recomend. When I changed mine I got 40 to 60 more miles per tank before hitting reserve. With three tanks a week for me, the $30 filter paid for itself in a week.
12) Some have complained about the cluster gauge needles sticking. Apparently the cluster need to be removed and the needles need to be delicately cleaned with alcohool. Hasn't happened to me.
Ohh, and I do not know a thing about performance chips. Many enthusiasts swear that they do not do a thing to improve the car's performance and some members of these forums love them. You are on your own, however, I would tend to stay away from performance chips and spend my money on improving handling and driving lessons. Like buying a Kleeman limited slip differential conversion kit, lighter wheels, wider tires necessitating a litle fender rolling and/or flaring, evo sport under drive pullies, better plugs, better wires, better brake pads, better and lower springs, appropriately valved shocks, etc.
Later
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Ok Marc I'll let Jeffrey know. As far as the chips are concerned I've heard they work like magic in the 1999-2001 E55's.I'm definitely going there plus there is a 14 day money back guarantee if you're not happy. By the way i know who has two 5.5L motors now Marc.I heard they honor their guarantee.Oh and not this Sat but next Sat my friend and I are getting our C43's dynoed at www.icsperformance.com.They are in Stamford Coonecticut.If you care to join email me or call me and let me know.we would be leaving early in the morning.
Last edited by ProjectC55; 03-29-2005 at 10:28 PM.
#13
Almost a Member!
Trump43 I have interlaced your comments with mine-hope it makes sense!
Ditto to that. This is a "Drivers" car and every little change is conveyed to the astute driver.
Originally Posted by Tump43
Common problems on the 99 C43 that I have either experienced personally or read about in the various MB forums are:
1) Driver's orthopedic seat fails often. Mine was repaired under warranty 3 times before I screamed and they replaced the entire system (the fault is a plastic y-joint that won't hold the plastic air tubes).
Ditto Mine is non Functional. Could well be the y-Joints since I can inflate it but it leaks out.
2) Transmission has been a problem for some, however, every owner who has changed the transmission fluid regularly (at least every 40K) has not had a problem. Also, apparently MB has an updated transmission program for the C43 so you should, as I did, check with the dealer to get the tranny computer flashed if it has not yet been done.
Yup! Had the Transmission on mine replaced under wty. Should I service it with synthetic Tranny Fluid?
I find the the Tranny-Engine relation is greatly harmonised by 91+ octane fuel. It loves Ethanol blended fuel but an expert said they are not good in the long run. In Canada I alternate between Imperial Oil(Esso) and Husky(Ethanol or Gasohol type).
3) People have complained about the front lower control arm bushings and ball joints wearing prematurely at 60K miles. This hasn't happened to me, but I am now redoing my control arm bushings with poly bushings, 190E sport line bushings and replacing the ball joints. I have also replaced the outer front sway bar bushings with delrin bushings as some enthusiats have done to reduce dive when initiating a turn.
My Front suspension feels a little "wobbley" on rough terrain. An upgrade would be a good idea.
4) One guy complained of needing a valve job at 70K miles. This has not happened to me or anyone else on the boards that I've noticed. Use full synthetics and change your oil and filter at least every 5K miles. Some change it more frequently (it couldn't hurt). The C43 has a single timing chain and I have not heard at what milage this will have to be replaced. However, as with all past benz V8's you should start thinking about doing that job around 120k to 180k miles. (In my case, instead of doing any of that long term maintenance work to my 43 engine, I'm simply going to replace it with a low milage 55 engine, being sure to include the E55 engine computer. Head gaskets seem to hold indefinately on these engines.
My Motor runs fine. Oil Change at 5K miles good idea.
5) I had my electronic climate control unit replaced under warranty for a faulty LED display. Many have complained about problems with these after 60K miles.
On hot days my LED fades out otherwise is ok.
6) My A/C compressor, condenser and evaporator were replaced under warranty at 80K miles due to a leak in the compressor. I had the radiator replaced under warranty at that time as well for a spot of aluminum rot appearing on its lower right corner. When driving, the car now will never go beyond 80 deg. c. (a two to three degree improvement). While idleing, however, the temp. can climb.
On very cold days I hear a "Hum" in the power steering when turning. May be it's the A/C compressor? Should have it checked.
7) Stock C43 brakes are very expensive to maintain with Benz parts and except for pads, no one makes parts that fit these brakes, so eventually it may be cost effective to install a Brembo or other big brake kit. Enthusiasts on the board note that the C43 brakes are extremely heavy and that the car would benefit from using lighter calipers and rotors. The AMG wheels are also very heavy and soft.
Need to service Brakes soon. Braking ability of C43 is the Best. I am reluctant to replace with Brembo or such for fear of messing up the Anti-Lock mechanism/Electronics.
8) I changed the accessory drive belt, idle pully and belt tensioner at 70K miles to avoid problems with the water pump, alt., etc. down the road.
I don't understand how renewing belt, pulley and tenshioner can prolong pump life!
I think the C43 simply needs stricter maintenance than other MB's -- if I think of anything else, I'll repost.
1) Driver's orthopedic seat fails often. Mine was repaired under warranty 3 times before I screamed and they replaced the entire system (the fault is a plastic y-joint that won't hold the plastic air tubes).
Ditto Mine is non Functional. Could well be the y-Joints since I can inflate it but it leaks out.
2) Transmission has been a problem for some, however, every owner who has changed the transmission fluid regularly (at least every 40K) has not had a problem. Also, apparently MB has an updated transmission program for the C43 so you should, as I did, check with the dealer to get the tranny computer flashed if it has not yet been done.
Yup! Had the Transmission on mine replaced under wty. Should I service it with synthetic Tranny Fluid?
I find the the Tranny-Engine relation is greatly harmonised by 91+ octane fuel. It loves Ethanol blended fuel but an expert said they are not good in the long run. In Canada I alternate between Imperial Oil(Esso) and Husky(Ethanol or Gasohol type).
3) People have complained about the front lower control arm bushings and ball joints wearing prematurely at 60K miles. This hasn't happened to me, but I am now redoing my control arm bushings with poly bushings, 190E sport line bushings and replacing the ball joints. I have also replaced the outer front sway bar bushings with delrin bushings as some enthusiats have done to reduce dive when initiating a turn.
My Front suspension feels a little "wobbley" on rough terrain. An upgrade would be a good idea.
4) One guy complained of needing a valve job at 70K miles. This has not happened to me or anyone else on the boards that I've noticed. Use full synthetics and change your oil and filter at least every 5K miles. Some change it more frequently (it couldn't hurt). The C43 has a single timing chain and I have not heard at what milage this will have to be replaced. However, as with all past benz V8's you should start thinking about doing that job around 120k to 180k miles. (In my case, instead of doing any of that long term maintenance work to my 43 engine, I'm simply going to replace it with a low milage 55 engine, being sure to include the E55 engine computer. Head gaskets seem to hold indefinately on these engines.
My Motor runs fine. Oil Change at 5K miles good idea.
5) I had my electronic climate control unit replaced under warranty for a faulty LED display. Many have complained about problems with these after 60K miles.
On hot days my LED fades out otherwise is ok.
6) My A/C compressor, condenser and evaporator were replaced under warranty at 80K miles due to a leak in the compressor. I had the radiator replaced under warranty at that time as well for a spot of aluminum rot appearing on its lower right corner. When driving, the car now will never go beyond 80 deg. c. (a two to three degree improvement). While idleing, however, the temp. can climb.
On very cold days I hear a "Hum" in the power steering when turning. May be it's the A/C compressor? Should have it checked.
7) Stock C43 brakes are very expensive to maintain with Benz parts and except for pads, no one makes parts that fit these brakes, so eventually it may be cost effective to install a Brembo or other big brake kit. Enthusiasts on the board note that the C43 brakes are extremely heavy and that the car would benefit from using lighter calipers and rotors. The AMG wheels are also very heavy and soft.
Need to service Brakes soon. Braking ability of C43 is the Best. I am reluctant to replace with Brembo or such for fear of messing up the Anti-Lock mechanism/Electronics.
8) I changed the accessory drive belt, idle pully and belt tensioner at 70K miles to avoid problems with the water pump, alt., etc. down the road.
I don't understand how renewing belt, pulley and tenshioner can prolong pump life!
I think the C43 simply needs stricter maintenance than other MB's -- if I think of anything else, I'll repost.
#16
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C43BlkAMG --
When the accessory drive belt loosens up due to stretch and/or a worn belt tensioner unit, it places different stresses on the components it drives. So if the water pump gets used to drive stress of even 1 degree off the designed spec. then when you change the belt or the tensioner unit the water pump will begin to leak rather quickly thereafter. This happens because the water pump bearing wears in such a way as to accomodate the "old" or "loose" setting and, if that is left for too long, when the tension is changed back to design spec. it will leak.
This happened to me when I was in the process of restoring the 87 300E I had initially. A lot of times people will only replace the drive belt and not the tensioner. This will not keep your engine components in tip top shape -- generally, they will only work with that "custom" tension and fail when you eventually replace the tensioner. If you want to keep the car for many miles with as few big ticket repairs as possible, I belive that it is cheap insurance to change the belt and the tensioner every 60K to 70K miles.
Also, if you get a big brake kit that is the same size or simillar, or better yet, specifically sold for the C43, you will not harm or compromise the ABS, ASR or ESP systems.
When the accessory drive belt loosens up due to stretch and/or a worn belt tensioner unit, it places different stresses on the components it drives. So if the water pump gets used to drive stress of even 1 degree off the designed spec. then when you change the belt or the tensioner unit the water pump will begin to leak rather quickly thereafter. This happens because the water pump bearing wears in such a way as to accomodate the "old" or "loose" setting and, if that is left for too long, when the tension is changed back to design spec. it will leak.
This happened to me when I was in the process of restoring the 87 300E I had initially. A lot of times people will only replace the drive belt and not the tensioner. This will not keep your engine components in tip top shape -- generally, they will only work with that "custom" tension and fail when you eventually replace the tensioner. If you want to keep the car for many miles with as few big ticket repairs as possible, I belive that it is cheap insurance to change the belt and the tensioner every 60K to 70K miles.
Also, if you get a big brake kit that is the same size or simillar, or better yet, specifically sold for the C43, you will not harm or compromise the ABS, ASR or ESP systems.
Last edited by Tump43; 03-31-2005 at 03:40 PM.
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Tump43
C43BlkAMG --
When the accessory drive belt loosens up due to stretch and/or a worn belt tensioner unit, it places different stresses on the components it drives. So if the water pump gets used to drive stress of even 1 degree off the designed spec. then when you change the belt or the tensioner unit the water pump will begin to leak rather quickly thereafter. This happens because the water pump bearing wears in such a way as to accomodate the "old" or "loose" setting and, if that is left for too long, when the tension is changed back to design spec. it will leak.
This happened to me when I was in the process of restoring the 87 300E I had initially. A lot of times people will only replace the drive belt and not the tensioner. This will not keep your engine components in tip top shape -- generally, they will only work with that "custom" tension and fail when you eventually replace the tensioner. If you want to keep the car for many miles with as few big ticket repairs as possible, I belive that it is cheap insurance to change the belt and the tensioner every 60K to 70K miles.
Also, if you get a big brake kit that is the same size or simillar, or better yet, specifically sold for the C43, you will not harm or compromise the ABS, ASR or ESP systems.
When the accessory drive belt loosens up due to stretch and/or a worn belt tensioner unit, it places different stresses on the components it drives. So if the water pump gets used to drive stress of even 1 degree off the designed spec. then when you change the belt or the tensioner unit the water pump will begin to leak rather quickly thereafter. This happens because the water pump bearing wears in such a way as to accomodate the "old" or "loose" setting and, if that is left for too long, when the tension is changed back to design spec. it will leak.
This happened to me when I was in the process of restoring the 87 300E I had initially. A lot of times people will only replace the drive belt and not the tensioner. This will not keep your engine components in tip top shape -- generally, they will only work with that "custom" tension and fail when you eventually replace the tensioner. If you want to keep the car for many miles with as few big ticket repairs as possible, I belive that it is cheap insurance to change the belt and the tensioner every 60K to 70K miles.
Also, if you get a big brake kit that is the same size or simillar, or better yet, specifically sold for the C43, you will not harm or compromise the ABS, ASR or ESP systems.
Last edited by ProjectC55; 04-07-2005 at 08:51 AM.
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
Carl --
Shoot me your contact numbers by email again. I'd like to get together with you on Saturday for the dyno run. mmclaw@optonline.net
Thanks,
Shoot me your contact numbers by email again. I'd like to get together with you on Saturday for the dyno run. mmclaw@optonline.net
Thanks,
#20
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Originally Posted by linuxfoo
whatever happened to the guy who originally posted teh thread??? lol
haha. im back. a year later...
i've lurked here a few times because i'm still very interested in an AMG car at some point. however, i bought a porsche 911 carrera 2 and an evo viii last year so i'm all bought out of cars for a while.
appreciated the comments though. funny how i came back here and saw that msg.
-harry
Last edited by Euromagination; 02-27-2006 at 09:54 PM.
#21
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1999 C43
Hey thanks for this post!!! This really helped me out!
Carl -- yes I have to come visit you to check out your car. I'm dying to see it.
Let me know if your guy could email me a list of parts needed for the conversion to tiptronic and when he could install this for me. I already have the 202 tiptronic tranny box. I do not have the LCD display that indicates the current gear and the time in the lower right of the cluster (as per the 2000 and up AMG's).
I'll be going for the 55 conversion in the next year or so.
Euromagination -- Here are a couple of other common problems with the C43 and all other 202's.
9) The 202 gas gauge goes funny at high mileage usually due to the fuel level senders wearing out. MB now has updated fuel lever senders that are gold plated to resist corrosion from poor US gas. I had these changed out on mine purs. to warranty.
10) Also, the gas cap wears out and causes your fuel reserve light to blink maddly when you have plenty of gas. I bought a new fuel cap and reused the old attachment strap.
11) The fuel filter on a 202 should be changed ever 20K miles not every 60K as Benz may recomend. When I changed mine I got 40 to 60 more miles per tank before hitting reserve. With three tanks a week for me, the $30 filter paid for itself in a week.
12) Some have complained about the cluster gauge needles sticking. Apparently the cluster need to be removed and the needles need to be delicately cleaned with alcohool. Hasn't happened to me.
Ohh, and I do not know a thing about performance chips. Many enthusiasts swear that they do not do a thing to improve the car's performance and some members of these forums love them. You are on your own, however, I would tend to stay away from performance chips and spend my money on improving handling and driving lessons. Like buying a Kleeman limited slip differential conversion kit, lighter wheels, wider tires necessitating a litle fender rolling and/or flaring, evo sport under drive pullies, better plugs, better wires, better brake pads, better and lower springs, appropriately valved shocks, etc.
Later
Let me know if your guy could email me a list of parts needed for the conversion to tiptronic and when he could install this for me. I already have the 202 tiptronic tranny box. I do not have the LCD display that indicates the current gear and the time in the lower right of the cluster (as per the 2000 and up AMG's).
I'll be going for the 55 conversion in the next year or so.
Euromagination -- Here are a couple of other common problems with the C43 and all other 202's.
9) The 202 gas gauge goes funny at high mileage usually due to the fuel level senders wearing out. MB now has updated fuel lever senders that are gold plated to resist corrosion from poor US gas. I had these changed out on mine purs. to warranty.
10) Also, the gas cap wears out and causes your fuel reserve light to blink maddly when you have plenty of gas. I bought a new fuel cap and reused the old attachment strap.
11) The fuel filter on a 202 should be changed ever 20K miles not every 60K as Benz may recomend. When I changed mine I got 40 to 60 more miles per tank before hitting reserve. With three tanks a week for me, the $30 filter paid for itself in a week.
12) Some have complained about the cluster gauge needles sticking. Apparently the cluster need to be removed and the needles need to be delicately cleaned with alcohool. Hasn't happened to me.
Ohh, and I do not know a thing about performance chips. Many enthusiasts swear that they do not do a thing to improve the car's performance and some members of these forums love them. You are on your own, however, I would tend to stay away from performance chips and spend my money on improving handling and driving lessons. Like buying a Kleeman limited slip differential conversion kit, lighter wheels, wider tires necessitating a litle fender rolling and/or flaring, evo sport under drive pullies, better plugs, better wires, better brake pads, better and lower springs, appropriately valved shocks, etc.
Later
#22
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1999 C43 AMG
Regarding the orthopedic seat bolsters--mine didn't work when I first bought my car, but the fix was simply because a couple of the tubes weren't plugged into the Y fitting.
However, occasionally the tubes would pop out of the fitting randomly, causing the bolsters to deflate. So we ordered new plugs, which turned out to have longer arms, meaning that the tubes didn't have to stretch as much to connect with the Y fitting. Fixed the problem for me. Haven't had an issue since I put the new fittings in. Five minute fix, too.
However, occasionally the tubes would pop out of the fitting randomly, causing the bolsters to deflate. So we ordered new plugs, which turned out to have longer arms, meaning that the tubes didn't have to stretch as much to connect with the Y fitting. Fixed the problem for me. Haven't had an issue since I put the new fittings in. Five minute fix, too.
#23
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BMW and Mercedes
1) The cars you list (C43 included) are for very different purposes and are also not really in the same price brackets. The closest comparison IMHO is the e36 M3 vs the C43, and after driving both pretty much back to back, I decided on the C43. Space (the e36 coupe was pretty small), function and every day driving were my main considerations. A couple years later, I'm wishing I had bought the M3 first, gotten then out of my system, sold off a little higher and then picked up a C43 for my big cross country move (since prices are down A LOT for the 202 AMG's)
2) Do not buy a C43 and expect it to be reliable. The drivetrain has been strong and so far (crossing fingers ) I haven't had any big problems. But the little things (interior, comfort devices, etc) will fail at an annoying rate. For example, in the last 6 months, I have had the following problems:
1) A/C compressor leak
2) A/C blower motor control failure (or something equivalent to)
3) Starter lockout switch failure
4) Both trunk compression springs have sheared off their brackets
5) Climate control display has de-laminated (2nd occurence in 25k miles)
6) Intermittant windshield wiper failure (not the blade, going into shop tomorrow to sort out since we have just been hit by monsoon like weather)
Repairs have probably been in excess of $1k, and the car just went off warranty (which most save the 2000 models will be about now). If you have the patience, and disposable income to burn, buy without worries, as it is an outstanding daily driver. Definitely a great value for the $$$
Now the Porsche turbo should be the real consideration IMHO
2) Do not buy a C43 and expect it to be reliable. The drivetrain has been strong and so far (crossing fingers ) I haven't had any big problems. But the little things (interior, comfort devices, etc) will fail at an annoying rate. For example, in the last 6 months, I have had the following problems:
1) A/C compressor leak
2) A/C blower motor control failure (or something equivalent to)
3) Starter lockout switch failure
4) Both trunk compression springs have sheared off their brackets
5) Climate control display has de-laminated (2nd occurence in 25k miles)
6) Intermittant windshield wiper failure (not the blade, going into shop tomorrow to sort out since we have just been hit by monsoon like weather)
Repairs have probably been in excess of $1k, and the car just went off warranty (which most save the 2000 models will be about now). If you have the patience, and disposable income to burn, buy without worries, as it is an outstanding daily driver. Definitely a great value for the $$$
Now the Porsche turbo should be the real consideration IMHO