Radar Detector and Laser Diffusor
http://www.radardetector.net
http://www.speedzones.com
http://www.guysoflidar.com
laser park pro is the best jammer and will beat anything currently out there, I will be upgrading my blinder m40 to this
K40 has been proven not to work, check above sites for real tests done on all of the products you mentioned
I personally think all the $300-$600 detectors are bull*****/money trap, these $100 range ones can perfectly do the job.
Hope this info helps
Valentine One is #1 followed by Bel and Escort.
http://radarbusters.com/support/product-tests/2.asp
Your Whistler 1788 loses to the Valentine One by 7/10 of a mile to 1 1/2 miles in X, K, and Ka detection.
http://valentine1.com/cordless/
"The SOLO S2's "High-Efficiency Power Management" is hardly rocket surgery. It saves the two AAs by putting the sentry to sleep more than 85 percent of the time. It just switches off the power-using detector circuitry.
A sleeping sentry can't possibly give early warning when radar is used in the instant-on mode. And it gives up all hope of detecting the POP mode."
No difference at all. They alerted me same times. That tells you more expensive isn't always better.
http://valentine1.com/lab/DoItYourself.asp
First Problem: Detectors hate each other - Every superheterodyne receiver—that includes all of today's radar detectors—receives and transmits during normal operation. As you probably know, these detector signals sometimes set off other detectors. Out on the road, other detectors are the most common nuisance signal V1 has to deal with.
What's not so obvious is this. Even if a detector isn't set off by another one, it's internal defense system maybe be affecting its radar sensitivity. This problem compounds when you bring two operating detectors into the same car. Up close, the transmitted signals become much stronger than a normal design would anticipate, and the weak signals that wouldn't bother at normal distances can send the defense system into hyperdrive.
V1 inspects every signal it receives and decides, Is it really radar? Is it maybe radar? Is it not radar. But it isn't designed to operate within a few feet of another detector, and we know of no other detector designed for that high-stress condition either.
Here's the irony: If you put two detectors together and one of them seems sluggish, you might decide that one is inferior. In fact, it may have a superior defense system, and the detector that appears to work better may be a grotesque polluting transmitter.
It's more trouble to test detectors by powering up one at a time, but it's the only way to tell which is better at finding radar.
Second Problem: What if they don't seem very different - Since all detectors warn when they go line of sight with the radar transmitter, they often sound their warnings well before you see the radar. But as I explain at length in Radar Detector Tests, the critical test of early warning is, What do you get "when the headlights are still beyond the hill?" The point here: To test meaningfully, you need to know the location of your radar. Are you really over the hill, or are you dipping in and out of line-of-sight as you approach. If your dipping, both detectors will seem very similar in their response.
Reliable measurements of early warning are rarely done in normal driving. I recommend this approach: find a false alarm (they don't move on you). Go out of range, preferably beyond a rise in terrain. Then approach, and note where the alert begins. Test each detector separately. Make at least three runs for each. For different bands, find different false alarms.
So many people praise the V1, but I've personally never liked it. Directional arrows on a detector, come on now, that's just silly.
V1 blows.
Just my $0.02
V1 is the most sensitive radar/laser detector on the market today.
It is easy to understand and program.
We are happy you got your X50 online for $250 probably from Ebay but guess what......that comes with no warranty so if it breaks and it will.....YOU ARE SCREWED!
If you don't believe me about the warranty, refer to Escort's homepage:
http://www.escortradar.com/radar-detector-faq.htm#q7
Does your factory warranty apply if I do not purchase directly from Escort?
The Escort warranty is honored on all of our products for purchases direct from Escort, and we maintain direct purchase records during the warranty period as a convenience for our customers. If you purchase an Escort product from an authorized reseller, the Escort warranty will be honored only if you can provide us with a copy of the original nvoice. We cannot honor any third party invoices that you may receive from an individual, auction, internet site or other unauthorized reseller.
GOOD LUCK WITH THAT.
V1 is the most sensitive radar/laser detector on the market today.
If you don't believe me about the warranty, refer to Escort's homepage:
http://www.escortradar.com/radar-detector-faq.htm#q7
Does your factory warranty apply if I do not purchase directly from Escort?
The Escort warranty is honored on all of our products for purchases direct from Escort, and we maintain direct purchase records during the warranty period as a convenience for our customers. If you purchase an Escort product from an authorized reseller, the Escort warranty will be honored only if you can provide us with a copy of the original nvoice. We cannot honor any third party invoices that you may receive from an individual, auction, internet site or other unauthorized reseller.
GOOD LUCK WITH THAT.
I apologize if I've offended anyone who has the V1.........if Valentine worked out the bugs and got rid of the directional arrows going off all at once so often, perhaps it would be a better product. Until then, it's my preference to stick with something that works consistently and is reliable in what it was made to do.
Last edited by TA-9FF; Apr 7, 2006 at 04:39 PM. Reason: typo
The little "l" only filters out X band radar that is sees as non-threatening to a muted volume but is still shows the lights and it raises the volume when it is seen as a threat. The big "L" will not report X band radar with lights or sound at all that is sees as non-threatening but it will report it if it sees it as threatening. "A" reports all bands as it detects them with no filtering.
Supermarkets only used X band for a while but now they use X band and K band so all radar detectors will alert in a supermarket parking lot. The reason your old V1 alerted less was because K band wasn't used as much for supermarkets back then so you got less alerts.
Turn off X band if it is not used by cops in your area and that will cut down on "false" alerts. I use the term "false" alerts but the V1 is doing what it is supposed to do...alert to sources of radar not alert to cops only.
Go here to learn how to program your V1:
http://valentine1.com/lab/MikesLabRpt3.asp
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
http://valentine1.com/lab/DoItYourself.asp
First Problem: Detectors hate each other - Every superheterodyne receiver—that includes all of today's radar detectors—receives and transmits during normal operation. As you probably know, these detector signals sometimes set off other detectors. Out on the road, other detectors are the most common nuisance signal V1 has to deal with.
What's not so obvious is this. Even if a detector isn't set off by another one, it's internal defense system maybe be affecting its radar sensitivity. This problem compounds when you bring two operating detectors into the same car. Up close, the transmitted signals become much stronger than a normal design would anticipate, and the weak signals that wouldn't bother at normal distances can send the defense system into hyperdrive.
V1 inspects every signal it receives and decides, Is it really radar? Is it maybe radar? Is it not radar. But it isn't designed to operate within a few feet of another detector, and we know of no other detector designed for that high-stress condition either.
Here's the irony: If you put two detectors together and one of them seems sluggish, you might decide that one is inferior. In fact, it may have a superior defense system, and the detector that appears to work better may be a grotesque polluting transmitter.
It's more trouble to test detectors by powering up one at a time, but it's the only way to tell which is better at finding radar.
Second Problem: What if they don't seem very different - Since all detectors warn when they go line of sight with the radar transmitter, they often sound their warnings well before you see the radar. But as I explain at length in Radar Detector Tests, the critical test of early warning is, What do you get "when the headlights are still beyond the hill?" The point here: To test meaningfully, you need to know the location of your radar. Are you really over the hill, or are you dipping in and out of line-of-sight as you approach. If your dipping, both detectors will seem very similar in their response.
Reliable measurements of early warning are rarely done in normal driving. I recommend this approach: find a false alarm (they don't move on you). Go out of range, preferably beyond a rise in terrain. Then approach, and note where the alert begins. Test each detector separately. Make at least three runs for each. For different bands, find different false alarms.
Valentine One is #1 followed by Bel and Escort.
http://radarbusters.com/support/product-tests/2.asp
Your Whistler 1788 loses to the Valentine One by 7/10 of a mile to 1 1/2 miles in X, K, and Ka detection.
http://valentine1.com/cordless/
"The SOLO S2's "High-Efficiency Power Management" is hardly rocket surgery. It saves the two AAs by putting the sentry to sleep more than 85 percent of the time. It just switches off the power-using detector circuitry.
A sleeping sentry can't possibly give early warning when radar is used in the instant-on mode. And it gives up all hope of detecting the POP mode."




