C36 AMG, C43 AMG (W202) 1995 - 2000

Radar Detector and Laser Diffusor

Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:14 AM
  #26  
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Passport SRX. Best there is.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 03:03 AM
  #27  
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744 C36 AMG,040 C43 AMG, CLK55 208, CLS55 IWC, CLK500 Rocketbunny widebody
Just becuase a website says something is true dosent mean it is, I go by real first hand experience.



Originally Posted by ctrider
you guys need to research your products before you buy them:

http://www.radardetector.net
http://www.speedzones.com
http://www.guysoflidar.com

laser park pro is the best jammer and will beat anything currently out there, I will be upgrading my blinder m40 to this

K40 has been proven not to work, check above sites for real tests done on all of the products you mentioned
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:17 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Vardar
I am using Whistler 1788R Cordless Laser/Radar Detector for $100, and very happy with it. It is cordless with a car/home charger. No cables.......So far saved about 10 tickets in about a month. I have no idea what difuser is, but this thing detects all the cops that are using whatever. And I live in South GA.

I personally think all the $300-$600 detectors are bull*****/money trap, these $100 range ones can perfectly do the job.

Hope this info helps
Whistler, Cobra, RMR, etc. are the bottom of the line detectors known for falsing and breaking.

Valentine One is #1 followed by Bel and Escort.


http://radarbusters.com/support/product-tests/2.asp

Your Whistler 1788 loses to the Valentine One by 7/10 of a mile to 1 1/2 miles in X, K, and Ka detection.


http://valentine1.com/cordless/

"The SOLO S2's "High-Efficiency Power Management" is hardly rocket surgery. It saves the two AAs by putting the sentry to sleep more than 85 percent of the time. It just switches off the power-using detector circuitry.

A sleeping sentry can't possibly give early warning when radar is used in the instant-on mode. And it gives up all hope of detecting the POP mode."
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:22 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Vardar
Right on! Couldn't say it better! I asked my friend to bring his V1 with him to go to Jax Florida (150-160 miles round trip) last weekend., i put both on same windshield (left and right)
No difference at all. They alerted me same times. That tells you more expensive isn't always better.
Because crappy radar detectors interfere with great radar detectors and reduce detection range.

http://valentine1.com/lab/DoItYourself.asp

First Problem: Detectors hate each other - Every superheterodyne receiver—that includes all of today's radar detectors—receives and transmits during normal operation. As you probably know, these detector signals sometimes set off other detectors. Out on the road, other detectors are the most common nuisance signal V1 has to deal with.


What's not so obvious is this. Even if a detector isn't set off by another one, it's internal defense system maybe be affecting its radar sensitivity. This problem compounds when you bring two operating detectors into the same car. Up close, the transmitted signals become much stronger than a normal design would anticipate, and the weak signals that wouldn't bother at normal distances can send the defense system into hyperdrive.

V1 inspects every signal it receives and decides, Is it really radar? Is it maybe radar? Is it not radar. But it isn't designed to operate within a few feet of another detector, and we know of no other detector designed for that high-stress condition either.

Here's the irony: If you put two detectors together and one of them seems sluggish, you might decide that one is inferior. In fact, it may have a superior defense system, and the detector that appears to work better may be a grotesque polluting transmitter.

It's more trouble to test detectors by powering up one at a time, but it's the only way to tell which is better at finding radar.

Second Problem: What if they don't seem very different - Since all detectors warn when they go line of sight with the radar transmitter, they often sound their warnings well before you see the radar. But as I explain at length in Radar Detector Tests, the critical test of early warning is, What do you get "when the headlights are still beyond the hill?" The point here: To test meaningfully, you need to know the location of your radar. Are you really over the hill, or are you dipping in and out of line-of-sight as you approach. If your dipping, both detectors will seem very similar in their response.

Reliable measurements of early warning are rarely done in normal driving. I recommend this approach: find a false alarm (they don't move on you). Go out of range, preferably beyond a rise in terrain. Then approach, and note where the alert begins. Test each detector separately. Make at least three runs for each. For different bands, find different false alarms.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:38 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TA-9FF
My friend has a V1, and I have the 8500 X50 "Blue".

So many people praise the V1, but I've personally never liked it. Directional arrows on a detector, come on now, that's just silly.
You must be one of the few that think directional arrows are silly. Why does a GPS system have arrows, why does a compass have arrows, why do signs on the road have arrows? You need to think of a cop using radar or laser as a sniper that is out to get you. Without arrows you don't know which direction to look or how to react other than to just "slow down" like most people do without a V1. You may know to slow down with the X50 but people with a V1 know when to speed up which is more important.


Originally Posted by TA-9FF
My X50 has a much longer range scanner, it is programmable like mad, and you can have it installed without the cord by a dealer. It's also easy to understand; all anyone has to do is figure out how to program it, and it's good to go. Plus I got mine brand new online for $250, shipped. Can't beat that.

V1 blows.

Just my $0.02
Fact:
V1 is the most sensitive radar/laser detector on the market today.

It is easy to understand and program.

We are happy you got your X50 online for $250 probably from Ebay but guess what......that comes with no warranty so if it breaks and it will.....YOU ARE SCREWED!

If you don't believe me about the warranty, refer to Escort's homepage:

http://www.escortradar.com/radar-detector-faq.htm#q7

Does your factory warranty apply if I do not purchase directly from Escort?

The Escort warranty is honored on all of our products for purchases direct from Escort, and we maintain direct purchase records during the warranty period as a convenience for our customers. If you purchase an Escort product from an authorized reseller, the Escort warranty will be honored only if you can provide us with a copy of the original nvoice. We cannot honor any third party invoices that you may receive from an individual, auction, internet site or other unauthorized reseller.

GOOD LUCK WITH THAT.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 04:11 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by RaDaRkInG
You must be one of the few that think directional arrows are silly. Why does a GPS system have arrows, why does a compass have arrows, why do signs on the road have arrows? You need to think of a cop using radar or laser as a sniper that is out to get you. Without arrows you don't know which direction to look or how to react other than to just "slow down" like most people do without a V1. You may know to slow down with the X50 but people with a V1 know when to speed up which is more important.
When all the arrows light up simultaneously, how accurate is that information? If your compass just spins continuously, is that going to help you in any way? If Valentine made their technology more reliable and got the quirks out with everything lighting up all at once so often, maybe then I'll agree with you. But too often, I hear complaints from friends and colleauges of mine that their V1 is inaccurate most of the time.


Originally Posted by RaDaRkInG
Fact:
V1 is the most sensitive radar/laser detector on the market today.
A fact from whom? Car&Driver magazine used the 8500 X50 when doing their road tests on the Carrera GT, Enzo, and SLR back a while ago. The FACT that they praised it and recommended it attests to its reliability, along with other independent testers. But it all boils down to preference, and mine just isn't with the V1. RadarTest.com also seems to agree with me that V1's technology is just......outdated....and they tested this a month ago! http://www.radartest.com/article.asp?articleid=9090

Originally Posted by RaDaRkInG
We are happy you got your X50 online for $250 probably from Ebay but guess what......that comes with no warranty so if it breaks and it will.....YOU ARE SCREWED!

If you don't believe me about the warranty, refer to Escort's homepage:

http://www.escortradar.com/radar-detector-faq.htm#q7

Does your factory warranty apply if I do not purchase directly from Escort?

The Escort warranty is honored on all of our products for purchases direct from Escort, and we maintain direct purchase records during the warranty period as a convenience for our customers. If you purchase an Escort product from an authorized reseller, the Escort warranty will be honored only if you can provide us with a copy of the original nvoice. We cannot honor any third party invoices that you may receive from an individual, auction, internet site or other unauthorized reseller.

GOOD LUCK WITH THAT.
I didn't buy mine from EBay.......I purchased mine from CarToys.com, and it was on sale at the time. (I bought it during the Christmas holidays) So it was just random good luck at the time that I bought it for $50 off the original $300 price tag.

I apologize if I've offended anyone who has the V1.........if Valentine worked out the bugs and got rid of the directional arrows going off all at once so often, perhaps it would be a better product. Until then, it's my preference to stick with something that works consistently and is reliable in what it was made to do.

Last edited by TA-9FF; Apr 7, 2006 at 04:39 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 04:12 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by steve s
donno, i've always had a v1, but it was a 96 model? anyway, it's at least a pre-2000 model. so my volvo was broken into at the dealer, and stuff was stolen (will be fully reimbursed by dealer). the new v1 i got seems to light up everything. maybe i just haven't looked thru the new manual, but setting the mode to lower L or full L used to be able to block out the usual supermarket stuff on the old v1. now, everything is full blast on the new v1. oh well.
See what I mean?
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 05:19 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by steve s
The new v1 i got seems to light up everything. maybe i just haven't looked thru the new manual, but setting the mode to lower L or full L used to be able to block out the usual supermarket stuff on the old v1. now, everything is full blast on the new v1. oh well.
Remember that your V1 will not filter K band or Ka band in any way no matter what mode you are in.

The little "l" only filters out X band radar that is sees as non-threatening to a muted volume but is still shows the lights and it raises the volume when it is seen as a threat. The big "L" will not report X band radar with lights or sound at all that is sees as non-threatening but it will report it if it sees it as threatening. "A" reports all bands as it detects them with no filtering.

Supermarkets only used X band for a while but now they use X band and K band so all radar detectors will alert in a supermarket parking lot. The reason your old V1 alerted less was because K band wasn't used as much for supermarkets back then so you got less alerts.

Turn off X band if it is not used by cops in your area and that will cut down on "false" alerts. I use the term "false" alerts but the V1 is doing what it is supposed to do...alert to sources of radar not alert to cops only.

Go here to learn how to program your V1:

http://valentine1.com/lab/MikesLabRpt3.asp
Attached Thumbnails Radar Detector and Laser Diffusor-modes.jpg  
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 01:38 AM
  #34  
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awesome.....that is a wealth of information, very much appreciated!
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:17 AM
  #35  
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Lol! You can't make me hate my detector! Lol! By looking at your user name, and the amount posts, you are here to sell radar detectors, and **** people off. It looks like you just popped up at the same time as this forum. Something smells here....

Originally Posted by RaDaRkInG
Because crappy radar detectors interfere with great radar detectors and reduce detection range.

http://valentine1.com/lab/DoItYourself.asp

First Problem: Detectors hate each other - Every superheterodyne receiver—that includes all of today's radar detectors—receives and transmits during normal operation. As you probably know, these detector signals sometimes set off other detectors. Out on the road, other detectors are the most common nuisance signal V1 has to deal with.


What's not so obvious is this. Even if a detector isn't set off by another one, it's internal defense system maybe be affecting its radar sensitivity. This problem compounds when you bring two operating detectors into the same car. Up close, the transmitted signals become much stronger than a normal design would anticipate, and the weak signals that wouldn't bother at normal distances can send the defense system into hyperdrive.

V1 inspects every signal it receives and decides, Is it really radar? Is it maybe radar? Is it not radar. But it isn't designed to operate within a few feet of another detector, and we know of no other detector designed for that high-stress condition either.

Here's the irony: If you put two detectors together and one of them seems sluggish, you might decide that one is inferior. In fact, it may have a superior defense system, and the detector that appears to work better may be a grotesque polluting transmitter.

It's more trouble to test detectors by powering up one at a time, but it's the only way to tell which is better at finding radar.

Second Problem: What if they don't seem very different - Since all detectors warn when they go line of sight with the radar transmitter, they often sound their warnings well before you see the radar. But as I explain at length in Radar Detector Tests, the critical test of early warning is, What do you get "when the headlights are still beyond the hill?" The point here: To test meaningfully, you need to know the location of your radar. Are you really over the hill, or are you dipping in and out of line-of-sight as you approach. If your dipping, both detectors will seem very similar in their response.

Reliable measurements of early warning are rarely done in normal driving. I recommend this approach: find a false alarm (they don't move on you). Go out of range, preferably beyond a rise in terrain. Then approach, and note where the alert begins. Test each detector separately. Make at least three runs for each. For different bands, find different false alarms.
Reply
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:19 AM
  #36  
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If greenpepper.com says green pepper tastes better than water mellon, it really does right?

Originally Posted by RaDaRkInG
Whistler, Cobra, RMR, etc. are the bottom of the line detectors known for falsing and breaking.

Valentine One is #1 followed by Bel and Escort.


http://radarbusters.com/support/product-tests/2.asp

Your Whistler 1788 loses to the Valentine One by 7/10 of a mile to 1 1/2 miles in X, K, and Ka detection.


http://valentine1.com/cordless/

"The SOLO S2's "High-Efficiency Power Management" is hardly rocket surgery. It saves the two AAs by putting the sentry to sleep more than 85 percent of the time. It just switches off the power-using detector circuitry.

A sleeping sentry can't possibly give early warning when radar is used in the instant-on mode. And it gives up all hope of detecting the POP mode."
Reply

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