How often to change oil (stock C43), Gunk good cleaner?
04-17-2006, 02:38 PM
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1999 C43
How often to change oil (stock C43), Gunk good cleaner?
I heard that you can drive 10k miles with regular oil change with these cars. Do you know or agree?
Also I used to use Gunk for engine cleaner, and rinse it off, is that a good thing? Or I am drying out some crap on the engine with Gunk? After rinse off I usually Wd40 the whole engine (mostly visible moving parts)
Any input is sincerely appreciated.
Also I used to use Gunk for engine cleaner, and rinse it off, is that a good thing? Or I am drying out some crap on the engine with Gunk? After rinse off I usually Wd40 the whole engine (mostly visible moving parts)
Any input is sincerely appreciated.
04-17-2006, 04:04 PM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Originally Posted by Vardar
I heard that you can drive 10k miles with regular oil change with these cars. Do you know or agree?
Also I used to use Gunk for engine cleaner, and rinse it off, is that a good thing? Or I am drying out some crap on the engine with Gunk? After rinse off I usually Wd40 the whole engine (mostly visible moving parts)
Any input is sincerely appreciated.
Also I used to use Gunk for engine cleaner, and rinse it off, is that a good thing? Or I am drying out some crap on the engine with Gunk? After rinse off I usually Wd40 the whole engine (mostly visible moving parts)
Any input is sincerely appreciated.
Last edited by StapleGun; 04-17-2006 at 11:04 PM.
04-19-2006, 08:13 AM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
I go every 5k between oil changes with mine.You'll find every theory or opinion under the sun if you search hard enough.I wipe my engine down with a damp rag then start it up when I'm done.
04-19-2006, 10:18 AM
#5
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1999 C43
Thank you kindly sir!
Originally Posted by C43AMG
I go every 5k between oil changes with mine.You'll find every theory or opinion under the sun if you search hard enough.I wipe my engine down with a damp rag then start it up when I'm done.
04-19-2006, 11:02 AM
#6
Senior Member
Synthetic oils are capable of lasting 10,000 miles plus without suffering from the breakdowns common in fossil-based oils. The problem is that the filter doesn't last as long, nor do most of the additives. As such, I change my filter every 4K and the oil every 8K.
04-19-2006, 01:46 PM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by SDR
As such, I change my filter every 4K and the oil every 8K.
Vadar see what I mean about the different "theories" .
Trending Topics
04-19-2006, 03:11 PM
#8
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1999 C43
LOL! That's cool
I guess it is possible right? Since the filter is on top of the engine.... What a convenience!
I guess it is possible right? Since the filter is on top of the engine.... What a convenience!
Originally Posted by C43AMG
Do what you want.......that's like changing a baby's diaper and not wiping its a$$. Vadar see what I mean about the different "theories" .
Vadar see what I mean about the different "theories" .Last edited by Vardar; 04-19-2006 at 03:15 PM.
04-19-2006, 03:12 PM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by C43AMG
I go every 5k between oil changes with mine.You'll find every theory or opinion under the sun if you search hard enough.I wipe my engine down with a damp rag then start it up when I'm done.
04-19-2006, 05:03 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Club202.com
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1998 C43
Figured I'd chime in.
1) MB issued something about the FSS service and the 10K oil change. Apparently, some dealers were not replacing the oil with synthetic oil. Essentially doing some damage to your car. I know I read about it somewhere on this Board (or was it another one?). They were giving away vouchers for something oil related. I would call the dealer or mbusa to get all the information, as most of us are second/third owners of the car.
2) Personally, I change my oil and filter every 3000-3500 miles. I use Mobil 1 0W40. I read a link about this guy doing a pretty comprehensive test about oils and he found that 8000 miles was when synthetics started to wear down. While I do not have all the information nor do I trust this guy's research, I think it is very likely his findings may be valid. I've come to my own conclusion that 5000 miles would be my top end of the oil change milage between services.
3) Lastly, I'd rather spend 100 or so every 3000 miles if it gave me piece of mind about my engine and performance. Sure it may be overkill, but think about the alternatives: messed up engine (which cost several thousands), or having to buy a new car. I like my 202 and intend on keeping it around. It's easier for me as I drive about 5000 miles a year, but even if I drove more, it will still be worth it to me.
1) MB issued something about the FSS service and the 10K oil change. Apparently, some dealers were not replacing the oil with synthetic oil. Essentially doing some damage to your car. I know I read about it somewhere on this Board (or was it another one?). They were giving away vouchers for something oil related. I would call the dealer or mbusa to get all the information, as most of us are second/third owners of the car.
2) Personally, I change my oil and filter every 3000-3500 miles. I use Mobil 1 0W40. I read a link about this guy doing a pretty comprehensive test about oils and he found that 8000 miles was when synthetics started to wear down. While I do not have all the information nor do I trust this guy's research, I think it is very likely his findings may be valid. I've come to my own conclusion that 5000 miles would be my top end of the oil change milage between services.
3) Lastly, I'd rather spend 100 or so every 3000 miles if it gave me piece of mind about my engine and performance. Sure it may be overkill, but think about the alternatives: messed up engine (which cost several thousands), or having to buy a new car. I like my 202 and intend on keeping it around. It's easier for me as I drive about 5000 miles a year, but even if I drove more, it will still be worth it to me.
04-19-2006, 07:06 PM
#11
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1999 C43
Dealer I went for the first (and last I hope) time said all they use for AMGs are M10-40W. But like you mentioned I'd feel better to change it every 5k miles. Also dealer also told me to push the "O" button to see when to change oil. I guess that is to their advantage..
Originally Posted by Denlasoul
Figured I'd chime in.
1) MB issued something about the FSS service and the 10K oil change. Apparently, some dealers were not replacing the oil with synthetic oil. Essentially doing some damage to your car. I know I read about it somewhere on this Board (or was it another one?). They were giving away vouchers for something oil related. I would call the dealer or mbusa to get all the information, as most of us are second/third owners of the car.
2) Personally, I change my oil and filter every 3000-3500 miles. I use Mobil 1 0W40. I read a link about this guy doing a pretty comprehensive test about oils and he found that 8000 miles was when synthetics started to wear down. While I do not have all the information nor do I trust this guy's research, I think it is very likely his findings may be valid. I've come to my own conclusion that 5000 miles would be my top end of the oil change milage between services.
3) Lastly, I'd rather spend 100 or so every 3000 miles if it gave me piece of mind about my engine and performance. Sure it may be overkill, but think about the alternatives: messed up engine (which cost several thousands), or having to buy a new car. I like my 202 and intend on keeping it around. It's easier for me as I drive about 5000 miles a year, but even if I drove more, it will still be worth it to me.
1) MB issued something about the FSS service and the 10K oil change. Apparently, some dealers were not replacing the oil with synthetic oil. Essentially doing some damage to your car. I know I read about it somewhere on this Board (or was it another one?). They were giving away vouchers for something oil related. I would call the dealer or mbusa to get all the information, as most of us are second/third owners of the car.
2) Personally, I change my oil and filter every 3000-3500 miles. I use Mobil 1 0W40. I read a link about this guy doing a pretty comprehensive test about oils and he found that 8000 miles was when synthetics started to wear down. While I do not have all the information nor do I trust this guy's research, I think it is very likely his findings may be valid. I've come to my own conclusion that 5000 miles would be my top end of the oil change milage between services.
3) Lastly, I'd rather spend 100 or so every 3000 miles if it gave me piece of mind about my engine and performance. Sure it may be overkill, but think about the alternatives: messed up engine (which cost several thousands), or having to buy a new car. I like my 202 and intend on keeping it around. It's easier for me as I drive about 5000 miles a year, but even if I drove more, it will still be worth it to me.
04-19-2006, 08:03 PM
#12
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2000 CLK 430 Coupe
Originally Posted by Vardar
I heard that you can drive 10k miles with regular oil change with these cars. Do you know or agree?
In addition to the qualitative analysis that Blackstone sends you, you can get very educated opinions by posting your test results at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com. They can give you advice on drain intervals, oil weights and brands, and oil filters. The veterans on that board apparently know their stuff very well, and can substantiate the advice they give you.
Are you still running the foam filter? Just so you know, one could argue that this deviates from a "stock" configuration. I seem to recall reading a while back that some K&N users were experiencing elevated silcone content in their oil, which would indicate that the filter is letting in more particulate than it should. Not to start any controversy over this, as you can probably find studies that both pro, neutral, and con for foam filters.
Regards,
e harmon
04-19-2006, 08:17 PM
#13
Senior Member
Originally Posted by C43AMG
Do what you want.......that's like changing a baby's diaper and not wiping its a$$.
I also agree that $100 for piece of mind is well worth it. There is certainly no damage to be inflicted by more frequent oil changes - unless of course you bungle the job somehow
04-19-2006, 09:11 PM
#14
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Foster City, CA
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05' S4 Avant, 91' 300E
10k miles is a little extreme. I would not reccomend going beyond 7500mi. I personally change it about every 5000 mi. As far as cleaning you engine goes, do you mean top engine clean, or do you mean physically cleaning it for better appearance? If top engine clean is what you are after, I reccomend SEA FOAM. Cost about $5 and is worth about $100. Cleans all the carbon off. If you dont know how to use it, below is a step by step process.
Sea Foam:
Have engine hot. (drive around at high rpm for about 10 min, if not been ran that day)
Pour sea foam in clear watter bottle of some sort.
Dissconect vaccum line that leads to intake manifold, such as brake booster line.
If not, others. However vaccum line cant be too small, otherwise wont suck up sea foam, but not too big, otherwise engine will die
Slowly put vaccum line in bottle so it starts sucking up sea foam.
Depending on size of line, engine will want to die, so if possible have a friend hold throttle at about 1500 rpm, or try and hold it yourself.
Smoke will come from exhaust as this is happening.
As you are just about done sucking up sea foam, you can submerge the vaccum line in the sea foam, and then turn off the engine, if you dont want to use all of it, you can poor the remainder in the oil.
Obviously then recconect all vaccum lines.
WAIT ABOUT 15 - 20 mins
Then start car up. There may be some hesitation to start, but after about 3 cranks it should fire up just fine.
Smoke will the begin to bellow out of exhaust. Let idle for a minute, then snap throttle. More smoke will pour out at rpm increase.
After car has ran for about 5 mins, drive around so all the carbon is burnt off. Once no more some is coming out, everything is good.
WARNING. Lot of smoke pours out. People may think your car is polluting and could call cops or whomever. Never happened to me, but be aware.
Sea Foam:
Have engine hot. (drive around at high rpm for about 10 min, if not been ran that day)
Pour sea foam in clear watter bottle of some sort.
Dissconect vaccum line that leads to intake manifold, such as brake booster line.
If not, others. However vaccum line cant be too small, otherwise wont suck up sea foam, but not too big, otherwise engine will die
Slowly put vaccum line in bottle so it starts sucking up sea foam.
Depending on size of line, engine will want to die, so if possible have a friend hold throttle at about 1500 rpm, or try and hold it yourself.
Smoke will come from exhaust as this is happening.
As you are just about done sucking up sea foam, you can submerge the vaccum line in the sea foam, and then turn off the engine, if you dont want to use all of it, you can poor the remainder in the oil.
Obviously then recconect all vaccum lines.
WAIT ABOUT 15 - 20 mins
Then start car up. There may be some hesitation to start, but after about 3 cranks it should fire up just fine.
Smoke will the begin to bellow out of exhaust. Let idle for a minute, then snap throttle. More smoke will pour out at rpm increase.
After car has ran for about 5 mins, drive around so all the carbon is burnt off. Once no more some is coming out, everything is good.
WARNING. Lot of smoke pours out. People may think your car is polluting and could call cops or whomever. Never happened to me, but be aware.
04-20-2006, 08:12 AM
#15
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1999 C43
This sounds horrible man! WOW!
I learn something everyday......
I learn something everyday......
Originally Posted by 1badamg
Sea Foam:
Have engine hot. (drive around at high rpm for about 10 min, if not been ran that day)
Pour sea foam in clear watter bottle of some sort.
Dissconect vaccum line that leads to intake manifold, such as brake booster line.
If not, others. However vaccum line cant be too small, otherwise wont suck up sea foam, but not too big, otherwise engine will die
Slowly put vaccum line in bottle so it starts sucking up sea foam.
Depending on size of line, engine will want to die, so if possible have a friend hold throttle at about 1500 rpm, or try and hold it yourself.
Smoke will come from exhaust as this is happening.
As you are just about done sucking up sea foam, you can submerge the vaccum line in the sea foam, and then turn off the engine, if you dont want to use all of it, you can poor the remainder in the oil.
Obviously then recconect all vaccum lines.
WAIT ABOUT 15 - 20 mins
Then start car up. There may be some hesitation to start, but after about 3 cranks it should fire up just fine.
Smoke will the begin to bellow out of exhaust. Let idle for a minute, then snap throttle. More smoke will pour out at rpm increase.
After car has ran for about 5 mins, drive around so all the carbon is burnt off. Once no more some is coming out, everything is good.
WARNING. Lot of smoke pours out. People may think your car is polluting and could call cops or whomever. Never happened to me, but be aware.
Have engine hot. (drive around at high rpm for about 10 min, if not been ran that day)
Pour sea foam in clear watter bottle of some sort.
Dissconect vaccum line that leads to intake manifold, such as brake booster line.
If not, others. However vaccum line cant be too small, otherwise wont suck up sea foam, but not too big, otherwise engine will die
Slowly put vaccum line in bottle so it starts sucking up sea foam.
Depending on size of line, engine will want to die, so if possible have a friend hold throttle at about 1500 rpm, or try and hold it yourself.
Smoke will come from exhaust as this is happening.
As you are just about done sucking up sea foam, you can submerge the vaccum line in the sea foam, and then turn off the engine, if you dont want to use all of it, you can poor the remainder in the oil.
Obviously then recconect all vaccum lines.
WAIT ABOUT 15 - 20 mins
Then start car up. There may be some hesitation to start, but after about 3 cranks it should fire up just fine.
Smoke will the begin to bellow out of exhaust. Let idle for a minute, then snap throttle. More smoke will pour out at rpm increase.
After car has ran for about 5 mins, drive around so all the carbon is burnt off. Once no more some is coming out, everything is good.
WARNING. Lot of smoke pours out. People may think your car is polluting and could call cops or whomever. Never happened to me, but be aware.
04-20-2006, 10:12 AM
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
I would LOVE to see a video of this.................
Originally Posted by 1badamg
10k miles is a little extreme. I would not reccomend going beyond 7500mi. I personally change it about every 5000 mi. As far as cleaning you engine goes, do you mean top engine clean, or do you mean physically cleaning it for better appearance? If top engine clean is what you are after, I reccomend SEA FOAM. Cost about $5 and is worth about $100. Cleans all the carbon off. If you dont know how to use it, below is a step by step process.
Sea Foam:
Have engine hot. (drive around at high rpm for about 10 min, if not been ran that day)
Pour sea foam in clear watter bottle of some sort.
Dissconect vaccum line that leads to intake manifold, such as brake booster line.
If not, others. However vaccum line cant be too small, otherwise wont suck up sea foam, but not too big, otherwise engine will die
Slowly put vaccum line in bottle so it starts sucking up sea foam.
Depending on size of line, engine will want to die, so if possible have a friend hold throttle at about 1500 rpm, or try and hold it yourself.
Smoke will come from exhaust as this is happening.
As you are just about done sucking up sea foam, you can submerge the vaccum line in the sea foam, and then turn off the engine, if you dont want to use all of it, you can poor the remainder in the oil.
Obviously then recconect all vaccum lines.
WAIT ABOUT 15 - 20 mins
Then start car up. There may be some hesitation to start, but after about 3 cranks it should fire up just fine.
Smoke will the begin to bellow out of exhaust. Let idle for a minute, then snap throttle. More smoke will pour out at rpm increase.
After car has ran for about 5 mins, drive around so all the carbon is burnt off. Once no more some is coming out, everything is good.
WARNING. Lot of smoke pours out. People may think your car is polluting and could call cops or whomever. Never happened to me, but be aware.
Sea Foam:
Have engine hot. (drive around at high rpm for about 10 min, if not been ran that day)
Pour sea foam in clear watter bottle of some sort.
Dissconect vaccum line that leads to intake manifold, such as brake booster line.
If not, others. However vaccum line cant be too small, otherwise wont suck up sea foam, but not too big, otherwise engine will die
Slowly put vaccum line in bottle so it starts sucking up sea foam.
Depending on size of line, engine will want to die, so if possible have a friend hold throttle at about 1500 rpm, or try and hold it yourself.
Smoke will come from exhaust as this is happening.
As you are just about done sucking up sea foam, you can submerge the vaccum line in the sea foam, and then turn off the engine, if you dont want to use all of it, you can poor the remainder in the oil.
Obviously then recconect all vaccum lines.
WAIT ABOUT 15 - 20 mins
Then start car up. There may be some hesitation to start, but after about 3 cranks it should fire up just fine.
Smoke will the begin to bellow out of exhaust. Let idle for a minute, then snap throttle. More smoke will pour out at rpm increase.
After car has ran for about 5 mins, drive around so all the carbon is burnt off. Once no more some is coming out, everything is good.
WARNING. Lot of smoke pours out. People may think your car is polluting and could call cops or whomever. Never happened to me, but be aware.
04-20-2006, 11:06 AM
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Oil Change Interval
I use Mobil One 0W-40 and change it at 5K miles, including a new Mahle oil filter. The MB oil change interval of 10K miles is insane, much like their theory of 100K on their transmission.
Like C43AMG states, theories abound as to what is best. I personally feel that if you change the oil, you SHOULD change the filter too. OEM-spec oil filters are only $6.49 through www.autohausaz.com, too cheap to not change it.
Like C43AMG states, theories abound as to what is best. I personally feel that if you change the oil, you SHOULD change the filter too. OEM-spec oil filters are only $6.49 through www.autohausaz.com, too cheap to not change it.
04-20-2006, 01:16 PM
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: asdfasdf
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One with 4 wheels
Originally Posted by StapleGun
I use Mobil One 0W-40 and change it at 5K miles, including a new Mahle oil filter. The MB oil change interval of 10K miles is insane, much like their theory of 100K on their transmission.
Like C43AMG states, theories abound as to what is best. I personally feel that if you change the oil, you SHOULD change the filter too. OEM-spec oil filters are only $6.49 through www.autohausaz.com, too cheap to not change it.
Like C43AMG states, theories abound as to what is best. I personally feel that if you change the oil, you SHOULD change the filter too. OEM-spec oil filters are only $6.49 through www.autohausaz.com, too cheap to not change it.
04-21-2006, 07:58 AM
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
The only motorvehicle that the 5K interval does not apply to is my Harley, and that's simply because it's not ridden that often as of late. I change that one typically around 3K. All my vehicles use synthetic and the 5K interval applies.
