How often to change oil (stock C43), Gunk good cleaner?
Also I used to use Gunk for engine cleaner, and rinse it off, is that a good thing? Or I am drying out some crap on the engine with Gunk? After rinse off I usually Wd40 the whole engine (mostly visible moving parts)
Any input is sincerely appreciated.
Also I used to use Gunk for engine cleaner, and rinse it off, is that a good thing? Or I am drying out some crap on the engine with Gunk? After rinse off I usually Wd40 the whole engine (mostly visible moving parts)
Any input is sincerely appreciated.

Last edited by StapleGun; Apr 17, 2006 at 11:04 PM.








Vadar see what I mean about the different "theories" .
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I guess it is possible right? Since the filter is on top of the engine.... What a convenience!
Vadar see what I mean about the different "theories" .Last edited by Vardar; Apr 19, 2006 at 03:15 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
1) MB issued something about the FSS service and the 10K oil change. Apparently, some dealers were not replacing the oil with synthetic oil. Essentially doing some damage to your car. I know I read about it somewhere on this Board (or was it another one?). They were giving away vouchers for something oil related. I would call the dealer or mbusa to get all the information, as most of us are second/third owners of the car.
2) Personally, I change my oil and filter every 3000-3500 miles. I use Mobil 1 0W40. I read a link about this guy doing a pretty comprehensive test about oils and he found that 8000 miles was when synthetics started to wear down. While I do not have all the information nor do I trust this guy's research, I think it is very likely his findings may be valid. I've come to my own conclusion that 5000 miles would be my top end of the oil change milage between services.
3) Lastly, I'd rather spend 100 or so every 3000 miles if it gave me piece of mind about my engine and performance. Sure it may be overkill, but think about the alternatives: messed up engine (which cost several thousands), or having to buy a new car. I like my 202 and intend on keeping it around. It's easier for me as I drive about 5000 miles a year, but even if I drove more, it will still be worth it to me.
1) MB issued something about the FSS service and the 10K oil change. Apparently, some dealers were not replacing the oil with synthetic oil. Essentially doing some damage to your car. I know I read about it somewhere on this Board (or was it another one?). They were giving away vouchers for something oil related. I would call the dealer or mbusa to get all the information, as most of us are second/third owners of the car.
2) Personally, I change my oil and filter every 3000-3500 miles. I use Mobil 1 0W40. I read a link about this guy doing a pretty comprehensive test about oils and he found that 8000 miles was when synthetics started to wear down. While I do not have all the information nor do I trust this guy's research, I think it is very likely his findings may be valid. I've come to my own conclusion that 5000 miles would be my top end of the oil change milage between services.
3) Lastly, I'd rather spend 100 or so every 3000 miles if it gave me piece of mind about my engine and performance. Sure it may be overkill, but think about the alternatives: messed up engine (which cost several thousands), or having to buy a new car. I like my 202 and intend on keeping it around. It's easier for me as I drive about 5000 miles a year, but even if I drove more, it will still be worth it to me.
In addition to the qualitative analysis that Blackstone sends you, you can get very educated opinions by posting your test results at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com. They can give you advice on drain intervals, oil weights and brands, and oil filters. The veterans on that board apparently know their stuff very well, and can substantiate the advice they give you.
Are you still running the foam filter? Just so you know, one could argue that this deviates from a "stock" configuration. I seem to recall reading a while back that some K&N users were experiencing elevated silcone content in their oil, which would indicate that the filter is letting in more particulate than it should. Not to start any controversy over this, as you can probably find studies that both pro, neutral, and con for foam filters.
Regards,
e harmon
I also agree that $100 for piece of mind is well worth it. There is certainly no damage to be inflicted by more frequent oil changes - unless of course you bungle the job somehow
Sea Foam:
Have engine hot. (drive around at high rpm for about 10 min, if not been ran that day)
Pour sea foam in clear watter bottle of some sort.
Dissconect vaccum line that leads to intake manifold, such as brake booster line.
If not, others. However vaccum line cant be too small, otherwise wont suck up sea foam, but not too big, otherwise engine will die
Slowly put vaccum line in bottle so it starts sucking up sea foam.
Depending on size of line, engine will want to die, so if possible have a friend hold throttle at about 1500 rpm, or try and hold it yourself.
Smoke will come from exhaust as this is happening.
As you are just about done sucking up sea foam, you can submerge the vaccum line in the sea foam, and then turn off the engine, if you dont want to use all of it, you can poor the remainder in the oil.
Obviously then recconect all vaccum lines.
WAIT ABOUT 15 - 20 mins
Then start car up. There may be some hesitation to start, but after about 3 cranks it should fire up just fine.
Smoke will the begin to bellow out of exhaust. Let idle for a minute, then snap throttle. More smoke will pour out at rpm increase.
After car has ran for about 5 mins, drive around so all the carbon is burnt off. Once no more some is coming out, everything is good.
WARNING. Lot of smoke pours out. People may think your car is polluting and could call cops or whomever. Never happened to me, but be aware.
I learn something everyday......
Have engine hot. (drive around at high rpm for about 10 min, if not been ran that day)
Pour sea foam in clear watter bottle of some sort.
Dissconect vaccum line that leads to intake manifold, such as brake booster line.
If not, others. However vaccum line cant be too small, otherwise wont suck up sea foam, but not too big, otherwise engine will die
Slowly put vaccum line in bottle so it starts sucking up sea foam.
Depending on size of line, engine will want to die, so if possible have a friend hold throttle at about 1500 rpm, or try and hold it yourself.
Smoke will come from exhaust as this is happening.
As you are just about done sucking up sea foam, you can submerge the vaccum line in the sea foam, and then turn off the engine, if you dont want to use all of it, you can poor the remainder in the oil.
Obviously then recconect all vaccum lines.
WAIT ABOUT 15 - 20 mins
Then start car up. There may be some hesitation to start, but after about 3 cranks it should fire up just fine.
Smoke will the begin to bellow out of exhaust. Let idle for a minute, then snap throttle. More smoke will pour out at rpm increase.
After car has ran for about 5 mins, drive around so all the carbon is burnt off. Once no more some is coming out, everything is good.
WARNING. Lot of smoke pours out. People may think your car is polluting and could call cops or whomever. Never happened to me, but be aware.




Sea Foam:
Have engine hot. (drive around at high rpm for about 10 min, if not been ran that day)
Pour sea foam in clear watter bottle of some sort.
Dissconect vaccum line that leads to intake manifold, such as brake booster line.
If not, others. However vaccum line cant be too small, otherwise wont suck up sea foam, but not too big, otherwise engine will die
Slowly put vaccum line in bottle so it starts sucking up sea foam.
Depending on size of line, engine will want to die, so if possible have a friend hold throttle at about 1500 rpm, or try and hold it yourself.
Smoke will come from exhaust as this is happening.
As you are just about done sucking up sea foam, you can submerge the vaccum line in the sea foam, and then turn off the engine, if you dont want to use all of it, you can poor the remainder in the oil.
Obviously then recconect all vaccum lines.
WAIT ABOUT 15 - 20 mins
Then start car up. There may be some hesitation to start, but after about 3 cranks it should fire up just fine.
Smoke will the begin to bellow out of exhaust. Let idle for a minute, then snap throttle. More smoke will pour out at rpm increase.
After car has ran for about 5 mins, drive around so all the carbon is burnt off. Once no more some is coming out, everything is good.
WARNING. Lot of smoke pours out. People may think your car is polluting and could call cops or whomever. Never happened to me, but be aware.
Like C43AMG states, theories abound as to what is best. I personally feel that if you change the oil, you SHOULD change the filter too. OEM-spec oil filters are only $6.49 through www.autohausaz.com, too cheap to not change it.
Like C43AMG states, theories abound as to what is best. I personally feel that if you change the oil, you SHOULD change the filter too. OEM-spec oil filters are only $6.49 through www.autohausaz.com, too cheap to not change it.




