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Ive appreciated this thread and hope to add my $.02 to Nitrogenbalances' "to do" post. Nitro- please feel free to jump in and comment on my answers to Kowalski.
[quote=kowalski;4435453] "...when you removed the hoses I noticed you have removed the oil filter, ..."
R: Im currently putting the cooling system radiator & hoses into a CLK55 W208 chassis. To reach 1 of the 3 gaskets that seal the oil filter, its necessary to extract the oil filter & assembly. Upon removal, access to the oil filter housing fastner/interface. Its about a 5" tube with a large "nut" at the end. I used a 1 13/16" socket to remove the piece. upon removal of the piece and oil filter housing, you will find a seal underneath. I will try to attach a pic or two of what I have done.
See additional notes
Q: Did you have to drain the (oil from the) engine?:
R: No.
However, to remove the radiator the oil cooling lines must be detached. I dont know the collar nut/fastner size. I fould it easy to plug each line with rubber stoppers.
See additional notes
Q: Did you also change the front squared timing case gasket?
R: ? I did not?
*Additional Notes
Per oil filter & drain Q: As Nitro-ballance points out "After taking this cooler off the engine I am definitely going to replace both gaskets. I removed everything,fan,radiator,it just makes the job that much more easier for you to spray and clean ALL the gunk off the motor ,especially in hidden places like behind the steering pump pulley and areas like that."
I dont think you have to go thru this to access the 3 gaskets however, I followed Nitro-B's lead and pulled the Radiator, mount, grill guard, etc., Its a bit of a pain to leave it in and by the time you realize the leak- chances are oils everywhere on the front end of your block.
Were I to do it again, I would plan to do the oil, filters, Radiator flush, belt, and what ever else can benefit from service.
Wish me luck- Im about to finish this up. I also noticed... it wouldnt be too difficult to drop the 2 radiators and add larger- straighter intake manifolds... but I should probably put it back together first? Hope this helps- Angelboy
Heres a link to my photos... I hopehttps://mbworld.org/forums/members/rue-sant-angel6-albums-oil-cooler-seals-fix-radiator-removal-clk-amg-5-5l-n-w208-w210-picture16169-dscf7380.jpg
I just viewed your pics in your sig, now I know where the 3rd gasket is.
At the bottom of Crystal lake oil filter housing
So the oilfilter housing needs to be removed to axxess this gasket.
How often does it leak from that bottom gasket?
great pictures thanx alot.
you da man.
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 01-08-2011 at 02:53 PM.
Kowalski,
how did things go? have more pic's and more mmm...problems to fix. IE idle pulley bearing seems to be going bad along with the belt. so if your still or have yet to get into this, Id recommend do these as well. let me know how its going!
peace-angelboy
Kowalski,
how did things go? have more pic's and more mmm...problems to fix. IE idle pulley bearing seems to be going bad along with the belt. so if your still or have yet to get into this, Id recommend do these as well. let me know how its going!
peace-angelboy
when I had to replace the harmonic balancer I told my mechanic to replace the upper idler pulley.
he only changed the belt tensioner, belt and harmonic balancer for me.
he didn't change the idler pulley, he said it's still cool!
I guess he didn't change it because of the loooooooong bolt!
You need to remove alot of parts to change this idler pulley, he thought it was unecessary to change it yet.
However I checked with the stealership and they couldn't find the 3 seal gasket kit in their computer even if I gave them the correct parts number.
I have to buy this kit from USA.
That's strange not being able to find a specific # - number?
I'm still lucky I don't have any leaks, but I will buy this kit to have it ready at home when the day comes for replacement.
Thanx man
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 01-18-2011 at 06:41 PM.
If you are located in frosty regions, check also the oil cooler for gear shift that is located intront of the right front wheel. It gets damaged by the salt. If not yet damaged, you can clean and paint it before it is totally destroyed.
Yes if you remove the bumper, you have good access. You need to remove the cooler to see the result. Especially on the top (what you can not see if mounted) and close to the tubes the salt burned deep holes.
The screws of the cooler where no more removable on my car. So I removed the cooler together with the mounting plate (2 screws) and cutted out the screws to the mounting plate.
My windings of the cooler where to connect the tubes were totally damaged. So I ordered a new cooler + tubes & pipes.
Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, I'm about to change all 3 gaskets (2-cooler, 1-filter housing) and before I separate the cooler from the housing, I need to know if I need to drain the coolant? It doesn't look like any coolant flows beyond the inlet/outlet pipes, and the holes are solely for oil flow, hence the cooling of the oil, but I wanted to make sure first.
I'd rather not have coolant all over the garage floor.
Better late then never. If you replace all 3 seals it's easier. No draining coolant or oil or anything. Just unbolt heat exchanger leaving it connected with the coolant lines then remove oil filter. Then unbolt filter housing (big bolt/nut inside) then lift it out. You have access to all 3 seals. Then just reinstall reverse order.
What is leaking from the oil cooler? Engine oil, coolant, or both?
Reason for asking is that it would seem logical to me, that coolant is circulating through the oil cooler, especially the OP mentioning disconnecting coolant hoses... And also that I recently had the oil cooler and filter housing gaskets replaced at an Indie mechanic, using non-OEM (Elring) gaskets, and since not only the leaking has not stopped, but I also started loosing coolant, and was curious whether coolant could be leaking from the oil cooler gaskets.
C43/55,2k11 Volvo S60 T6AWD,2k Audi B5 S4,95 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD 500+awhp
Originally Posted by cyber
What is leaking from the oil cooler? Engine oil, coolant, or both?
Reason for asking is that it would seem logical to me, that coolant is circulating through the oil cooler, especially the OP mentioning disconnecting coolant hoses... And also that I recently had the oil cooler and filter housing gaskets replaced at an Indie mechanic, using non-OEM (Elring) gaskets, and since not only the leaking has not stopped, but I also started loosing coolant, and was curious whether coolant could be leaking from the oil cooler gaskets.
Yes, two coolant lines straight from the water pump connect to the oil cooler. However, the coolant does not pass from the oil cooler to the oil filter housing, it remains in the one-piece oil cooler. Only the engine oil passes between the filter housing and the cooler. The coolant feeds into two small pipes on the same side and circulate through just like in a tiny radiator. If it is leaking, you have a hole in this area that likely can't be repaired, or a faulty connection where the hoses connect to the cooler.
Yes, two coolant lines straight from the water pump connect to the oil cooler. However, the coolant does not pass from the oil cooler to the oil filter housing, it remains in the one-piece oil cooler. Only the engine oil passes between the filter housing and the cooler. The coolant feeds into two small pipes on the same side and circulate through just like in a tiny radiator. If it is leaking, you have a hole in this area that likely can't be repaired, or a faulty connection where the hoses connect to the cooler.
My mechanic told me this is why I have oil in my coolant, time to get this thing replaced, hopefully it's just the cooler and not the filter housing as well.
Yes, two coolant lines straight from the water pump connect to the oil cooler. However, the coolant does not pass from the oil cooler to the oil filter housing, it remains in the one-piece oil cooler. Only the engine oil passes between the filter housing and the cooler. The coolant feeds into two small pipes on the same side and circulate through just like in a tiny radiator. If it is leaking, you have a hole in this area that likely can't be repaired, or a faulty connection where the hoses connect to the cooler.
Looks like the easiest way to replace this is buying the oil cooler with the filter housing attached? does this part come with all 3 seals installed already or do i need to buy the oil filter seal separately?
EDIT:
ok sorry, i see the answer now. there is a kit with all three seals. im just a little confused why the cooler/filter housing doesnt come with the seals already installed.. thats a bit weird. so i have to disassemble the part, insert the seals and reassemble the part? thats crazy. has anyone bought this part already?
guessing this is the easiest, just clip those hoses, drop some towels over your belt and clip in the new part. sounds like a lot less work than draining and disassemble the fan to get down there and unscrew the cooler alone (which probably wont sit flush anyway...)
so on the new kit, just seals and no sealant since it is new and flush?
Last edited by mickey13; 12-13-2017 at 06:58 AM.
Reason: additional q
so you dont need the seal kit if you buy the entire cooler with housing (from FCP Euro at least anyway) im going to clean it up nice and seal the outer edge with MB sealant. give me a few minutes to find the sealant. you will need the seal for the housing only, not sure if the only way to get that is in the three seal kit. anyway the kit was only 10 bucks.
i notice they grinded off a part number, probably the MB part number. so make sure you clean it up very very very good cause you will get metal shavings in your oil. BTW does anyone know the torque amount for these screws? they came off pretty easy so not much im guessing.
cant find the sealant. i have a new one that i dont want to open, i have half a tube open somewhere if it didnt dry out. will check the storage tomorrow.
looking for torque specs on the oil cooler and nut for filter housing. looks like a 10 minute job cant believe some indy asked me for $500 plus cost of new oil cooler/housing
70Nm or 55 lb-ft is the correct torque spec. Just did two of these in the fall. Be prepared, I had to use a 3' extension pipe over my breaker bar handle to crack that hollow 46mm bolt loose. The cooler-filter bolts did not have torque specs that I could find; I snugged them up with a 2.5" driver handle and they did not strip nor does it leak.
so ive got everything except the 46mm socket. my half empty tube of mb sealant turned out to be completely empty so either i break open another tube or just use permatex. what would you do?
Last edited by mickey13; 12-22-2017 at 08:48 PM.
Reason: torque specs
01-06-2011, 01:43 PM
Hope this helps- Angelboy
