So I changed my motor mounts...
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So I changed my motor mounts...
Four bolts, and a couple hours if you take your time and clean stuff along the way like I do. Very easy repair. I used a small hydraulic jack also.
So before installing these I've been reading how so many MB cars are blowing through these mounts. With a violent onset of torque I figured my car would be a great canidate for breaking these. I also thought that my mounts were toast simply from the fact that if I had my hood up and slammed my door, I would see the motor shake a bit. You could also shake the motor using your hands with much greater ease than one would expect. How much play should these motors have???
The first mount that I removed was visually unharmed. Do they breakdown on the inside? The second one was in the same condition, very decent. So I replaced them with the new parts anyway since I had them. The motor idles smooth and seems to be perfect, what surprises me is how much you can rock this motor using just your hands and a little leverage....seems like it should be stiffer with new mounts and all.
So before installing these I've been reading how so many MB cars are blowing through these mounts. With a violent onset of torque I figured my car would be a great canidate for breaking these. I also thought that my mounts were toast simply from the fact that if I had my hood up and slammed my door, I would see the motor shake a bit. You could also shake the motor using your hands with much greater ease than one would expect. How much play should these motors have???
The first mount that I removed was visually unharmed. Do they breakdown on the inside? The second one was in the same condition, very decent. So I replaced them with the new parts anyway since I had them. The motor idles smooth and seems to be perfect, what surprises me is how much you can rock this motor using just your hands and a little leverage....seems like it should be stiffer with new mounts and all.
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
That's not a bad DIY project, I replaced mine when I did the starter - figured since I'm there and the car has 80K on the odo. You simply have to be careful of where you place the jack to lift the engine.
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I placed a piece of thick plywood a little bigger than the oil pan underneath and placed the jack on the wood to keep the load a little more uniform. I really didn't jack the motor up as much as just kept it in place. My tech said that this is fine..I hope it is. I could see a bottle jack or something of that nature causing a dent or crack if a board of some sort isn't used.
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Yep - I placed a jack underneath the pan AFTER placing a thick rubber pad and a wood board that was wider than that of the pan in order to evenly distribute the weight of that engine on the jack.
Last edited by StapleGun; Aug 8, 2007 at 06:57 PM.
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190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
The engine mounts aren't solid, they have a hydraulic fluid inside the mount that dampens torque changes and vibration. the 2 main ways these mounts fail is either the hydrualic fluid leaks out of the mount (usually the LH mount) which then allows the engine to make the mount reach it's limits unrestrained.
The second method of failure is when they slowly collapse from age (usually the RH mount). The vibration absorbtion capacity is deminished and it is felt as vibration through the vehicle.
Newer genuine mounts are alot stronger than they were when these cars were new but I'd still consider them a wear item due to the large low end torque and long gear ratios.
The second method of failure is when they slowly collapse from age (usually the RH mount). The vibration absorbtion capacity is deminished and it is felt as vibration through the vehicle.
Newer genuine mounts are alot stronger than they were when these cars were new but I'd still consider them a wear item due to the large low end torque and long gear ratios.
