My HPS Gen. I/custom SUPERCHARGER thread-
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,559
Likes: 0
From: Portsmouth, NH
none
There are a few of us that have salvaged old kits and fixed them to work. Mostly Gen1's and not so much Gen2's. Good cheap fun on the Gen1's. The kits could have been perfect with a little more R&D but HPS missed the mark years ago and buried themselves with the GEN2.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
I will search for it
i plan on using a quite large intercooler core, cobra pump, upgraded cobra front mount heat exchanger and a very small overflow (if any). I looked at those barrel type intercoolers- i could only reasonably fit a 6" one and doubt it would have enough effect.
as far as dropping a wrench- 90% of the time it stays right on top with this car, lol.
hps is definitely still in business, lol- and still totally sucks
i plan on using a quite large intercooler core, cobra pump, upgraded cobra front mount heat exchanger and a very small overflow (if any). I looked at those barrel type intercoolers- i could only reasonably fit a 6" one and doubt it would have enough effect.
as far as dropping a wrench- 90% of the time it stays right on top with this car, lol.
hps is definitely still in business, lol- and still totally sucks
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
There should be two ports at the back. (1) on the intake mani that was already there, and (1) that is on the HPS supplied elbow that connects where the TB was. One of these ports will be used to supply vacuum to the PCV system with a check valve inline to prevent boosting the crankcase. The port on the HPS pipe I threaded internally for the IAT probe. So those are all used up. To supply vacuum to the tank vent hard line you can run a line up to the TB up front or T into the PCV line with the check vavle.
The two 3/8 ports on the valve covers should go to the vacuum source with the check valve/PCV valve. The large 5/8 port on the drivers side vlave cover I have going to a catch can with a check valve in line.
This way when the car is under vacuum which is most of the time the check valve and PCV valve create a little vacuum for the cranckcase which is good. Because the larger 5/8 line has a check valve going the other direction it keeps the PCV under vacuum. When boost hits the the 3/8 valves close preventing boost into the CC and the larger 5/8 valve is open allowing any blowby and CC pressure to be vented into the can. So under vacuum my PCV functions normally and under boost it is like an open breather system. Its the best solution I could muster up without the use of a vacuum pump. This make any sense????
I actually spent a month trying to fab up a GZmotorsport street pump but could get the room....good luck trying to fit an Air to Water or any type of charge cooler...hell if I drop a wrench I can barely get to it let alone fit a cooling system. I'll send you a rack of beer if you can pull it off!
The two 3/8 ports on the valve covers should go to the vacuum source with the check valve/PCV valve. The large 5/8 port on the drivers side vlave cover I have going to a catch can with a check valve in line.
This way when the car is under vacuum which is most of the time the check valve and PCV valve create a little vacuum for the cranckcase which is good. Because the larger 5/8 line has a check valve going the other direction it keeps the PCV under vacuum. When boost hits the the 3/8 valves close preventing boost into the CC and the larger 5/8 valve is open allowing any blowby and CC pressure to be vented into the can. So under vacuum my PCV functions normally and under boost it is like an open breather system. Its the best solution I could muster up without the use of a vacuum pump. This make any sense????
I actually spent a month trying to fab up a GZmotorsport street pump but could get the room....good luck trying to fit an Air to Water or any type of charge cooler...hell if I drop a wrench I can barely get to it let alone fit a cooling system. I'll send you a rack of beer if you can pull it off!
we aren't talking about the same ports btw- i'm still questioning the factory one coming off the back of the manifold to the drivers side of where the throttle body used to be- I will take a picture later.
My pcv system seems to work well enough otherwise (it's basically the same as yours +/- some small details)
-drew
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,559
Likes: 0
From: Portsmouth, NH
none
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
thanks- doesn't deter me at all from my air-water plan though...
however, it answered my question about how he tackled the adding fuel past the 5.0 volt thing (i think)
-drew
however, it answered my question about how he tackled the adding fuel past the 5.0 volt thing (i think)
-drew
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
nitrogenbalance-
you ran your "boost" line to your fmu directly from where the tb used to be right?
the hps instructions say to do it here-
just curious why you did it differently if you did (this is what i was trying to ask about above)
i will have fuel pressure gauge and new pump installed prior to next time i drive it- so i'll be able to see if it is working correctly etc.
-drew
you ran your "boost" line to your fmu directly from where the tb used to be right?
the hps instructions say to do it here-
just curious why you did it differently if you did (this is what i was trying to ask about above)
i will have fuel pressure gauge and new pump installed prior to next time i drive it- so i'll be able to see if it is working correctly etc.
-drew
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,559
Likes: 0
From: Portsmouth, NH
none
Yup, thats right. I think the only thing I did different was the tank vent and PCV system. I just didn't want the crankcase gunk getting pulled through the blower. As far as the FMU goes that should be good. I opted for a slightly more rugged vac line as it runs underneath the car and is exposed. I have it zip tied along the fuel line paths. Its tucked away well, but I really should get some type of protective sleaving as extra protection.
Things comming along??
Things comming along??
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
i'm just putting in my 60 hrs a week overe here in Rochester while the car sits in Red Wing.
As soon as i get the time to install my gauges and get back out there (weather permitting) and get to tuning things should come along a lot better.
stuttering is gone with the new maf, but the car doesn't feel as fast as i think it should either- but i haven't been able to get into it much in the 20 minutes i've driven it after the maf swap. once i have the a/f and other gauges installed and get a chance to tinker with it i'm sure it will work. I"m going to route my vac. line to the rear through the car.
-drew
As soon as i get the time to install my gauges and get back out there (weather permitting) and get to tuning things should come along a lot better.
stuttering is gone with the new maf, but the car doesn't feel as fast as i think it should either- but i haven't been able to get into it much in the 20 minutes i've driven it after the maf swap. once i have the a/f and other gauges installed and get a chance to tinker with it i'm sure it will work. I"m going to route my vac. line to the rear through the car.
-drew
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 5,475
Likes: 5
From: City with Tall buildings!
C43/55,2k11 Volvo S60 T6AWD,2k Audi B5 S4,95 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD 500+awhp
Too bad you guys live pretty far. I'd like to see how much the HPS kit helps the 4.3L motor vs dropping in a 5.5L V8.
If it is a significant difference I'd love to go the Greg C,Josh K route with a Vortech Centrifugal setup.
If I don't notice much of a difference vs a Supercharged 4.3L I'll just be content and install the VRP cams and get SW.
I did run a modded HPS II SL500 which ran sweet(He improved on the flaws on the HPS II kit) and believe me our cars were pretty damn close!!!!Now that I have a modded intake and I'd really love to run that SL500 again. I will try to set it up
If it is a significant difference I'd love to go the Greg C,Josh K route with a Vortech Centrifugal setup.
If I don't notice much of a difference vs a Supercharged 4.3L I'll just be content and install the VRP cams and get SW.
I did run a modded HPS II SL500 which ran sweet(He improved on the flaws on the HPS II kit) and believe me our cars were pretty damn close!!!!Now that I have a modded intake and I'd really love to run that SL500 again. I will try to set it up
Last edited by ProjectC55; Feb 17, 2008 at 01:31 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,559
Likes: 0
From: Portsmouth, NH
none
Too bad you guys live pretty far. I'd like to see how much the HPS kit helps the 4.3L motor vs dropping in a 5.5L V8.
If it is a significant difference I'd love to go the Greg C,Josh K route with a Vortech Centrifugal setup.
If I don't notice much of a difference vs a Supercharged 4.3L I'll just be content and install the VRP cams and get SW. I did run a modded HPS II SL500 which ran sweet(He improved on the flaws on the HPS II kit) and believe me our cars were pretty damn close!!!!Now that I have a modded intake and I'd really love to run that SL500 again. I will try to set it up
If it is a significant difference I'd love to go the Greg C,Josh K route with a Vortech Centrifugal setup.
If I don't notice much of a difference vs a Supercharged 4.3L I'll just be content and install the VRP cams and get SW.
I did run a modded HPS II SL500 which ran sweet(He improved on the flaws on the HPS II kit) and believe me our cars were pretty damn close!!!!Now that I have a modded intake and I'd really love to run that SL500 again. I will try to set it upI'd love to set up somethin like this. Man, I really have few "car" friends here...
I guess that's NH...and dude, a vortech centrifi could put you near 500whp if done right
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 316
Likes: 6
From: New York
Stg3 B5S4-C55 AMG
14.5 afr is lean.
Is that avg ? or peak ? and was it early in the rpms then tapered as you hit 5K rpms .
Sounds like there's not enough fuel at the rail. Good idea on the fuel pressure gauge.
In my Audi S4 thats built, I use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator before the rail.It usually lives at 5-6 bar fed by a Bosch 044 pump going into hi-impedance injectors ( Siemens).
Not sure what the stock bar is for a C43, but one would think the engine needs to get more to feed the boost need.
Is there a boost T coming out of the ECU ? How's it reading psi ?
I had good luck removing the screens out of my MAF . Winter temps are real tricky for tuning as everything is so uber efficient. You might also need toloulene in your tank to up the octane to keep from deto.
Is that avg ? or peak ? and was it early in the rpms then tapered as you hit 5K rpms .
Sounds like there's not enough fuel at the rail. Good idea on the fuel pressure gauge.
In my Audi S4 thats built, I use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator before the rail.It usually lives at 5-6 bar fed by a Bosch 044 pump going into hi-impedance injectors ( Siemens).
Not sure what the stock bar is for a C43, but one would think the engine needs to get more to feed the boost need.
Is there a boost T coming out of the ECU ? How's it reading psi ?
I had good luck removing the screens out of my MAF . Winter temps are real tricky for tuning as everything is so uber efficient. You might also need toloulene in your tank to up the octane to keep from deto.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
all good advice-
i will have the means to determine for sure soon here, but it is my opinion that im lean because the car wasn't leaving open loop (not due to a lack of fueling capability).
i will have the means to determine for sure soon here, but it is my opinion that im lean because the car wasn't leaving open loop (not due to a lack of fueling capability).
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 928
Likes: 12
From: nyc
04 E55 B07, 11 CL63, 17 GLE63S
Too bad you guys live pretty far. I'd like to see how much the HPS kit helps the 4.3L motor vs dropping in a 5.5L V8.
If it is a significant difference I'd love to go the Greg C,Josh K route with a Vortech Centrifugal setup.
If I don't notice much of a difference vs a Supercharged 4.3L I'll just be content and install the VRP cams and get SW. I did run a modded HPS II SL500 which ran sweet(He improved on the flaws on the HPS II kit) and believe me our cars were pretty damn close!!!!Now that I have a modded intake and I'd really love to run that SL500 again. I will try to set it up
If it is a significant difference I'd love to go the Greg C,Josh K route with a Vortech Centrifugal setup.
If I don't notice much of a difference vs a Supercharged 4.3L I'll just be content and install the VRP cams and get SW.
I did run a modded HPS II SL500 which ran sweet(He improved on the flaws on the HPS II kit) and believe me our cars were pretty damn close!!!!Now that I have a modded intake and I'd really love to run that SL500 again. I will try to set it upLong time no see, we had some fun on the way back from Maryland, hope to do it again sometime soon this March or April. Right after we got back from Maryland(13.21@106.37) I had my ECU reflashed, removed the primary cats like you told me and did a 12.80@108.72(click on signature to see video) at Englishtown on Nov. 2, of course it was much colder and I had some DR's on. Since last Nov. I did some major mods
so I'm hoping to do some better #'s when the track opens in March, I hope you'll come out with the C55ps. this is my latest dyno
Last edited by mertd93; Feb 24, 2008 at 11:48 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,347
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
2006 Weistec 3.0L SC'd C55, 2006 MaxPsi PT6466 Turbo'd M3, 2019 Maserati GTS , 2020Alfa Quadrifoglio
Finally got everything installed on the car and got it on the dyno to see where i stand with things prior to putting the car back in storage. I wanted it done now so that i could get a feel for what parts i would need to order etc. before spring so that i'd know what i'd need/have a budget and plan to have to ready to go come May.
current relevent mods-
hps gen I kit
split second psc1-003 in place of the voltage clamp
Car runs very well in some parts of power band, but "breaks" up and hits some kind of an electronic fuel cut or something in others. Any rpm's over 5k or so are likely to trigger this (most likely due to pegging the maf), also often this happens if you aggressively get into it in the mid range (pegging the maf possibly?).
Additionally, it runs lean throughout the entire rpm range (for my taste). It seems that it is likely the ratio which the 02s are trying to regulate it to. Split second makes a scaler which will allow me to adjust this if i want to (now that i know i'll always be in closed loop) and i may want to go that route.
All that said- the car made very respectable power given the issues and i can definitely see some crazy numbers just around the corner...
my plan (please give me feedback)-
add fuel pressure gauge so i can determine if it is truly the 02s limiting my fuel rather than pump or injectors
buy a new maf sensor (i can get jus the sensor right? part #?) and test it with that installed to see if that fixes the driveability. Also, custom build a larger maf housing such that i'm not pegging the meter quite so easily... Another option here might be to buy a larger meter from an w211 e55 or something (do they share the same sensor plug?) as with the scaler i would be able to adjust that to "fit" what the stock ecu expects to see if necessary.
consider adding split seconds lambda scaler- hopefully, based on the results of more dyno time with the maf issue resolved and the fuel pressure gauge installed.
thanks for any help/advice
-drew
current relevent mods-
hps gen I kit
split second psc1-003 in place of the voltage clamp
Car runs very well in some parts of power band, but "breaks" up and hits some kind of an electronic fuel cut or something in others. Any rpm's over 5k or so are likely to trigger this (most likely due to pegging the maf), also often this happens if you aggressively get into it in the mid range (pegging the maf possibly?).
Additionally, it runs lean throughout the entire rpm range (for my taste). It seems that it is likely the ratio which the 02s are trying to regulate it to. Split second makes a scaler which will allow me to adjust this if i want to (now that i know i'll always be in closed loop) and i may want to go that route.
All that said- the car made very respectable power given the issues and i can definitely see some crazy numbers just around the corner...
my plan (please give me feedback)-
add fuel pressure gauge so i can determine if it is truly the 02s limiting my fuel rather than pump or injectors
buy a new maf sensor (i can get jus the sensor right? part #?) and test it with that installed to see if that fixes the driveability. Also, custom build a larger maf housing such that i'm not pegging the meter quite so easily... Another option here might be to buy a larger meter from an w211 e55 or something (do they share the same sensor plug?) as with the scaler i would be able to adjust that to "fit" what the stock ecu expects to see if necessary.
consider adding split seconds lambda scaler- hopefully, based on the results of more dyno time with the maf issue resolved and the fuel pressure gauge installed.
thanks for any help/advice
-drew
Super Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 784
Likes: 0
From: Ga.
All of them!
What is the part number for the W211 E55 MAF? Have some a pics? Maybe some more info on the size of that unit, where I can get one, especially "super cheap", etc.? If anyone needs one, it's me.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 5,475
Likes: 5
From: City with Tall buildings!
C43/55,2k11 Volvo S60 T6AWD,2k Audi B5 S4,95 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD 500+awhp
W211 E55 with a MAF?
Since when?
Silence you need to recheck your info.
I wanna see 450whp. We'll be watching!
Since when?Silence you need to recheck your info.
I wanna see 450whp. We'll be watching!
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
yeah, the maf was not as advertised... 
currently-
these are in regards to my 1999 C43 mercedes running 5 psi of boost from an eaton for which there is no tuning software or standalone applications. thus i'm resigned to tuning by changing injectors, fuel pressure (through fmu and pump or otherwise), and mass air scaling- i have the basic split second scaler.
I have ngk afx wideband and cyberdyne fuel pressure, vacuum/boost, and voltage gauges currently installed (i intend to add a iat gauge down the road to monitor the success of my upcoming air-water intercooler set-up)
for some reason right now (i just finished install and plan to call summit tomorrow unless i figure this out tonight) the fuel pressure gauge isn't reading- it just scrolls "low". I have it installed on the return line just "upstream" of my fmu and i checked it's signal output at idle and get about 5v- if you can help with a solution for this let me know.
NOW ON TO THE QUESTIONS-
I understand the basics of tuning but have no knowledge of part throttle or "tip-in" type tuning etc. My car sits at about 13.0-13.5 afr under wot and the afr actually goes down toward the high end of my power band (which pleases me greatly as i was worried i didn't have a good enough fuel system yet). However, at mid-low rpms and around 0 vacuum/boost it drops all the way down to the 9.0-10.0 range.
what do i want the afr to do as i begin to get on it but do not floor it? do i ever want it to dip down like that? is my goal 12.0, 13.0, 14.5 or whatever throughout mild tip-in/hard part throttle accleration? What is my main goal in setting things up part throttle wise?
how do you guys feel about my 13.0-13.5 afr under wot with my car? I will have to get my fuel pressure gauge working and determine what is up with that before i can determine what i might need to do in order to get it any lower (i already have my scaler set up to add as much fuel as possible under wot)
currently-
these are in regards to my 1999 C43 mercedes running 5 psi of boost from an eaton for which there is no tuning software or standalone applications. thus i'm resigned to tuning by changing injectors, fuel pressure (through fmu and pump or otherwise), and mass air scaling- i have the basic split second scaler.
I have ngk afx wideband and cyberdyne fuel pressure, vacuum/boost, and voltage gauges currently installed (i intend to add a iat gauge down the road to monitor the success of my upcoming air-water intercooler set-up)
for some reason right now (i just finished install and plan to call summit tomorrow unless i figure this out tonight) the fuel pressure gauge isn't reading- it just scrolls "low". I have it installed on the return line just "upstream" of my fmu and i checked it's signal output at idle and get about 5v- if you can help with a solution for this let me know.
NOW ON TO THE QUESTIONS-
I understand the basics of tuning but have no knowledge of part throttle or "tip-in" type tuning etc. My car sits at about 13.0-13.5 afr under wot and the afr actually goes down toward the high end of my power band (which pleases me greatly as i was worried i didn't have a good enough fuel system yet). However, at mid-low rpms and around 0 vacuum/boost it drops all the way down to the 9.0-10.0 range.
what do i want the afr to do as i begin to get on it but do not floor it? do i ever want it to dip down like that? is my goal 12.0, 13.0, 14.5 or whatever throughout mild tip-in/hard part throttle accleration? What is my main goal in setting things up part throttle wise?
how do you guys feel about my 13.0-13.5 afr under wot with my car? I will have to get my fuel pressure gauge working and determine what is up with that before i can determine what i might need to do in order to get it any lower (i already have my scaler set up to add as much fuel as possible under wot)
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,559
Likes: 0
From: Portsmouth, NH
none
Not sure about the "tip in" or "part throttle" tuning, I was lucky enough to have the A/F worked out with the installed parts. No FMU adjustment or anything. I'm gonna check out my dyno graph again because I do recall a coulple areas where it dipped into 13's breifly. Nothing extreme though.
As far as the F.pressure gauge goes. It is electric I assume and not mechanical. I have the electric sender of mine tapped into the fuel line at the firewall where the fuel line goes into the fuel rail. A simple T-fitting, and 12V power was all it needed. You should see around 55psi at idle and around 80-85ish when your on the go pedal.
As far as the F.pressure gauge goes. It is electric I assume and not mechanical. I have the electric sender of mine tapped into the fuel line at the firewall where the fuel line goes into the fuel rail. A simple T-fitting, and 12V power was all it needed. You should see around 55psi at idle and around 80-85ish when your on the go pedal.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
yeah, i've been looking at your dyno graph... heh. I don't think your running any richer than i am given the uncertainties of our testing equipment etc.. I'm just looking at mine visually with a less accurate measurement but it seems to have the same slope under wot etc. etc. as yours does.
I would be very surprised if your car didn't have the same tip in "issues" you just aren't aware of them- did you spend time doing part throttle runs with the wideband at the dyno?
i've got my stupid pressure sender situation fixed- i was being dumb when i installed it!
every knowledgeable person i've talked to has suggested running as 11.5-12 minimum unless i add some sort of timing control
I would be very surprised if your car didn't have the same tip in "issues" you just aren't aware of them- did you spend time doing part throttle runs with the wideband at the dyno?
i've got my stupid pressure sender situation fixed- i was being dumb when i installed it!
every knowledgeable person i've talked to has suggested running as 11.5-12 minimum unless i add some sort of timing control
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,559
Likes: 0
From: Portsmouth, NH
none
That recomended A/F ratio is the ratio that we want, or at least I've been told a few times. I guess you could say my car is slightly lean. I do plan on fixing this I just wanted to get a few more things done before I start spending $ on dyno tuning.
A friend of mine has an HPS 1 E55 and I recall him telling me about the knock sensors being heard when he dips into the throttle an inch or so while cruising on the highway. Basically a quick part throttle stab. He said they would make a muffled rachet sound for a brief second. I think this indicates a lean out situation. Under WOT this would not happend. I wonder if this is the same issue as yours, which I would think has something to do with the FMU adjustment.
A friend of mine has an HPS 1 E55 and I recall him telling me about the knock sensors being heard when he dips into the throttle an inch or so while cruising on the highway. Basically a quick part throttle stab. He said they would make a muffled rachet sound for a brief second. I think this indicates a lean out situation. Under WOT this would not happend. I wonder if this is the same issue as yours, which I would think has something to do with the FMU adjustment.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,559
Likes: 0
From: Portsmouth, NH
none
I believe Dan **** used the BEGI brand FMU for his CLK application. I think I remember reading about it. If I remember correctly Mario had the Vortech unit. I have this same adjustable Vortech unit as well. I installed the preset FMU that came with the kit though. We were missing a part for the adj. FMU and the supplied one ended up working ok for the about of boost I was running. 4.5lb-5lbs. The begi unit looks as good and should work as well as the vortech unit.
About the A/F issues...I starting to remember if it was the FMU adjustment or the meth/H20 system that made this issue go away. I know that the FMU issue came up early with his install and it was a neccesary to make the power and safe A/F. I'm starting to think that he told me the meth/H20 was the thing that fixed the part throttle issue..I'm gonna give him a call this afternoon.
About the A/F issues...I starting to remember if it was the FMU adjustment or the meth/H20 system that made this issue go away. I know that the FMU issue came up early with his install and it was a neccesary to make the power and safe A/F. I'm starting to think that he told me the meth/H20 was the thing that fixed the part throttle issue..I'm gonna give him a call this afternoon.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
thanks
it really is working 95% of how i want it to- i just think it would seem a lot safer richer and the occasional hiccup under part throttle is annoying (is it the knock sensor???)
also, about 1 in 10 times i back up and it shuts off... lol. honestly though i tihnk that's temperature related and who knows.
it really is working 95% of how i want it to- i just think it would seem a lot safer richer and the occasional hiccup under part throttle is annoying (is it the knock sensor???)
also, about 1 in 10 times i back up and it shuts off... lol. honestly though i tihnk that's temperature related and who knows.
