Intake Manifold Port/Polish...in slow motion..
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Intake Manifold Port/Polish...in slow motion..
So what started as this just over a year ago has managed to slowly become what you see below it. If I didn't work alot this would have been done.
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Labor intensive. I wouldn't have done this had I known the work involved. It would kill me to give up on something I've started so I'm gonna finish it and hope for the 25hp that mbenzman saw. I'm going to have the bottom half done in a thermal barrier coating by swain tech. Along with the phelonic spacers I hope this will help keep heat from the block and heads below from transfering into the intake mani. The top I'll leave alone as I couldn't stand to polish another piece.
I started playing with the meth/H20 and have decieded to thread 2 small nozzles, one pre blower and the 2nd I'm threading into the manifolds TB port location. Being that the intake mani is rather large the 2nd mist will have a good spin through the runners in hopes of keeping it cooler. I hope to have intake mani done and swapped in within a couple weeks..
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[/IMG]Labor intensive. I wouldn't have done this had I known the work involved. It would kill me to give up on something I've started so I'm gonna finish it and hope for the 25hp that mbenzman saw. I'm going to have the bottom half done in a thermal barrier coating by swain tech. Along with the phelonic spacers I hope this will help keep heat from the block and heads below from transfering into the intake mani. The top I'll leave alone as I couldn't stand to polish another piece.
I started playing with the meth/H20 and have decieded to thread 2 small nozzles, one pre blower and the 2nd I'm threading into the manifolds TB port location. Being that the intake mani is rather large the 2nd mist will have a good spin through the runners in hopes of keeping it cooler. I hope to have intake mani done and swapped in within a couple weeks..
Last edited by NitrogenBalance; Apr 22, 2008 at 07:12 PM.
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Oh yes, I saw it. Looks good. Looks like you'll be equally busy with your hands. Keep in mind how much our engine dips under full power. I hope you can make that fit and have enough clearance for movement and such. Along with the meth/H20 I would love to have an effecient A/W cooler.
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sounds like airplane
I cut fast, lol and have not qualms about using the grinder and/or sawzall on things i don't really need...
the only real issue with my ic set-up (the cutting is actually minimal and i think def. worth it) is the outlet pipe from the supercharger has to be truly modified/completely redone. If mine works out well i'll make you one too if your interested.
btw- i think i'm trying to let LET dyno tune my car in chicago. hopefully no more 90 psi fuel pressures for me!
any idea on that one model number for that cover? think i can fit it around that ic?
the only real issue with my ic set-up (the cutting is actually minimal and i think def. worth it) is the outlet pipe from the supercharger has to be truly modified/completely redone. If mine works out well i'll make you one too if your interested.
btw- i think i'm trying to let LET dyno tune my car in chicago. hopefully no more 90 psi fuel pressures for me!
any idea on that one model number for that cover? think i can fit it around that ic?
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Did I mention that this is not very fun. Its making me miserable. I don't know why but I can't stand this piece
Anyways, a couple more nips and tucks here and there and its ready for the final polish wheels. So basically doing it all over again Then the top and bottome piece go out to have a finish applied. I'd polish the exterior but I don't see myself keeping up with it. The finish should look kinda shiny or at least shiner than before
some progress
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Anyways, a couple more nips and tucks here and there and its ready for the final polish wheels. So basically doing it all over again
Then the top and bottome piece go out to have a finish applied. I'd polish the exterior but I don't see myself keeping up with it. The finish should look kinda shiny or at least shiner than before some progress
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Oh yeah. I'm really most curious about how the phelonic spacers and thermobarier coating will perform. The extra flow should help but because its forced induction I was told that the heads may be the bottle neck. If I get the heads done it will probably make a big difference as a combo. Or at least thats what I've been told. Makes sense to me, its possible. Similar work on an N/A CLK55 showed 25hp. Last summer on the dyno I watched my whp drop from 335 on a cold run down to 287 about 15 minutes later....the intake manifold could fry an egg, and the blower didn't help this either. So I hope the polish, thermo bariers, and H20/meth give me a few ponies but more importantly keep IAT's in check and keep #'s consistant.
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
where did you get the spacer?
I doubt i'd do anything but throw the spacer on, but i may be interested in doing that.
you can fry an egg at pretty low temperatures... but i get what your saying.
what i was seeing yesterday with my infrared was 45 celsius on top of the motor and 38 at the blower (24 at ic).
-drew
I doubt i'd do anything but throw the spacer on, but i may be interested in doing that.
you can fry an egg at pretty low temperatures... but i get what your saying.
what i was seeing yesterday with my infrared was 45 celsius on top of the motor and 38 at the blower (24 at ic).
-drew
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AMG C43, 1999
Nitro,
You may want to try putting it back together with the botton runners removed and the vacumm activated runner valve disconnected. With that done you should get an increase of pressure in the intake manifold as the pressure or the velocity of the air will enter the manifold and slow down and build pressure. Plus you you get to use the shorter pathway for the intake runners and that should help both your low and high speed torque.
Jeff
You may want to try putting it back together with the botton runners removed and the vacumm activated runner valve disconnected. With that done you should get an increase of pressure in the intake manifold as the pressure or the velocity of the air will enter the manifold and slow down and build pressure. Plus you you get to use the shorter pathway for the intake runners and that should help both your low and high speed torque.
Jeff
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I'm going to smoke some opium so I can vizualize this
So your saying ditch the larger piece containing the 8 butterflies or simply remove the vac source to this part? I kinda get what your saying but I'm no real expert in airflow dynamics. Also, you recomending this with knowing my car is forced induction? not sure if this fouls your idea in terms of pressure build and such.
Did you ever dyno the beast after the V stacks? are you still running the V stacks?
So your saying ditch the larger piece containing the 8 butterflies or simply remove the vac source to this part? I kinda get what your saying but I'm no real expert in airflow dynamics. Also, you recomending this with knowing my car is forced induction? not sure if this fouls your idea in terms of pressure build and such.Did you ever dyno the beast after the V stacks? are you still running the V stacks?
Nitro,
You may want to try putting it back together with the botton runners removed and the vacumm activated runner valve disconnected. With that done you should get an increase of pressure in the intake manifold as the pressure or the velocity of the air will enter the manifold and slow down and build pressure. Plus you you get to use the shorter pathway for the intake runners and that should help both your low and high speed torque.
Jeff
You may want to try putting it back together with the botton runners removed and the vacumm activated runner valve disconnected. With that done you should get an increase of pressure in the intake manifold as the pressure or the velocity of the air will enter the manifold and slow down and build pressure. Plus you you get to use the shorter pathway for the intake runners and that should help both your low and high speed torque.
Jeff
