C36 AMG, C43 AMG (W202) 1995 - 2000

Best way to spend 1200

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Old 06-30-2008, 04:13 PM
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^^ Cool, well I stand corrected. Sounds like a pretty good deal for you C36 guys. I'll keep that in mind for my upcoming 3.6 190e project
Old 06-30-2008, 04:21 PM
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1996 C36 AMG
Originally Posted by FLYNAVY
^^ Cool, well I stand corrected. Sounds like a pretty good deal for you C36 guys. I'll keep that in mind for my upcoming 3.6 190e project
I'm so jealous! haha, I definitely am thinking about 3.6L 190 like that one on youtube. FYI theres a C36 drivetrain for sale right now in the classifieds section. You might want to jump on that, they don't come around often.
Old 06-30-2008, 10:19 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
10

horse power and a few pounds of torque is worth about a 10th of a second over a 1/4 mile.Look at the power band,chip tuning to move the rpm up is not going to do anything except buzz that little motor past it's prime power band.You hang onto a gear much past the peak tq.and h.p. intersection and you will lose the race.Note how the two graphs ramp up at the same rate.And where they drop off.Chip the m104 to move up the redline is only going to take you further from your best power in the power band.3700rpm to 4500rpm in both cases,You need to get an accelerometer or take it to the track to find out how much the engine drops while shifting to get the best performance.From the looks of the dyno chart shifting much past 6200 rpm is a loss in performance not a gain.Even with the pulley installed.
You looking for top end?I don't think so,not in the states anyway
you looking to drop your 1/4 mile times the pulley is not going to do much more then knock off a 1/10 or 2/10.
Horsepower: 276 hp Max Horsepower: 5750 rpm
Torque: 284 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 4000 rpm
if these figures are correct for factory stock the pulley nor the stock pulley moved the power band to the right.So don't chip for rpm gain,it will just make it fall flat on it's face.
In short whether you do the pulley or remove a hundred pounds of junk from your trunk
If you want to spend money on making the car quicker at the track,spend part of the $1200 on
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Some people have the mistaken impression that mods are additive.Claimed 10h.p. plus another thing that claims 10 h.p.=20h.p.
Get a G-meter,run a base line,learn your best shift points in each gear,use the shift light feature,log you data.Then when you install a pulley,or make the mistake of moving your redline up,you will be able to see what it did or did not do.$200 for the meter will improve your times,increase your skills,and show you what every addition(tested 1 at a time)does to the real world car.
Dyno pulls are great for bragging rights,The track separates the Men from the boys,and their money
As always take my advice however you wish.40 years of racing has not made me the go to guy on everything about MB performance.I have learned a few things though and one of them is how to read a dyno chart.

$1200 bucks and some time spent with the engine and you could cam it and really move the power band up and over to the right.

"GOT CODES?"
Old 06-30-2008, 11:09 PM
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invest in Stocks. Check out AMD and AAPL
Old 06-30-2008, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ohlord
horse power and a few pounds of torque is worth about a 10th of a second over a 1/4 mile.Look at the power band,chip tuning to move the rpm up is not going to do anything except buzz that little motor past it's prime power band.You hang onto a gear much past the peak tq.and h.p. intersection and you will lose the race.Note how the two graphs ramp up at the same rate.And where they drop off.Chip the m104 to move up the redline is only going to take you further from your best power in the power band.3700rpm to 4500rpm in both cases,You need to get an accelerometer or take it to the track to find out how much the engine drops while shifting to get the best performance.From the looks of the dyno chart shifting much past 6200 rpm is a loss in performance not a gain.Even with the pulley installed.
You looking for top end?I don't think so,not in the states anyway
you looking to drop your 1/4 mile times the pulley is not going to do much more then knock off a 1/10 or 2/10.
Horsepower: 276 hp Max Horsepower: 5750 rpm
Torque: 284 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 4000 rpm
if these figures are correct for factory stock the pulley nor the stock pulley moved the power band to the right.So don't chip for rpm gain,it will just make it fall flat on it's face.
In short whether you do the pulley or remove a hundred pounds of junk from your trunk
If you want to spend money on making the car quicker at the track,spend part of the $1200 on
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Some people have the mistaken impression that mods are additive.Claimed 10h.p. plus another thing that claims 10 h.p.=20h.p.
Get a G-meter,run a base line,learn your best shift points in each gear,use the shift light feature,log you data.Then when you install a pulley,or make the mistake of moving your redline up,you will be able to see what it did or did not do.$200 for the meter will improve your times,increase your skills,and show you what every addition(tested 1 at a time)does to the real world car.
Dyno pulls are great for bragging rights,The track separates the Men from the boys,and their money
As always take my advice however you wish.40 years of racing has not made me the go to guy on everything about MB performance.I have learned a few things though and one of them is how to read a dyno chart.

$1200 bucks and some time spent with the engine and you could cam it and really move the power band up and over to the right.

"GOT CODES?"
I guess this is kind of what I was getting at, although the pulley dyno figures are a bit surprising (in a good way)
Old 06-30-2008, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ohlord
horse power and a few pounds of torque is worth about a 10th of a second over a 1/4 mile.Look at the power band,chip tuning to move the rpm up is not going to do anything except buzz that little motor past it's prime power band.You hang onto a gear much past the peak tq.and h.p. intersection and you will lose the race.Note how the two graphs ramp up at the same rate.And where they drop off.Chip the m104 to move up the redline is only going to take you further from your best power in the power band.3700rpm to 4500rpm in both cases,You need to get an accelerometer or take it to the track to find out how much the engine drops while shifting to get the best performance.From the looks of the dyno chart shifting much past 6200 rpm is a loss in performance not a gain.Even with the pulley installed.
You looking for top end?I don't think so,not in the states anyway
you looking to drop your 1/4 mile times the pulley is not going to do much more then knock off a 1/10 or 2/10.
Horsepower: 276 hp Max Horsepower: 5750 rpm
Torque: 284 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 4000 rpm
if these figures are correct for factory stock the pulley nor the stock pulley moved the power band to the right.So don't chip for rpm gain,it will just make it fall flat on it's face.
In short whether you do the pulley or remove a hundred pounds of junk from your trunk
If you want to spend money on making the car quicker at the track,spend part of the $1200 on
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Some people have the mistaken impression that mods are additive.Claimed 10h.p. plus another thing that claims 10 h.p.=20h.p.
Get a G-meter,run a base line,learn your best shift points in each gear,use the shift light feature,log you data.Then when you install a pulley,or make the mistake of moving your redline up,you will be able to see what it did or did not do.$200 for the meter will improve your times,increase your skills,and show you what every addition(tested 1 at a time)does to the real world car.
Dyno pulls are great for bragging rights,The track separates the Men from the boys,and their money
As always take my advice however you wish.40 years of racing has not made me the go to guy on everything about MB performance.I have learned a few things though and one of them is how to read a dyno chart.

$1200 bucks and some time spent with the engine and you could cam it and really move the power band up and over to the right.

"GOT CODES?"

you should invest money in a dictionary, thesaurus, and an english text book b/c that was one hell of a incomprehensible rant

P.S. your sig is reallly annoying

"oh lord"
got codes?
Old 07-01-2008, 04:48 AM
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sounds like airplane
Originally Posted by Dr. C36
you should invest money in a dictionary, thesaurus, and an english text book b/c that was one hell of a incomprehensible rant

P.S. your sig is reallly annoying

"oh lord"
got codes?


ohlord can be annoying at times , particularly when him and I disagree(but he has a lot of knowledge and shared it openly)

you need to work on coming across as professional- despite the good dyno results etc., it is easy to read the various threads on your products and come away with the impression that you are unprofessional and know nothing about cars (in fact, that you don't even know enough to know what you don't know kind of thing)

Don't take this all wrong- i still plan to pick up a pulley for me car as time/budget allows (i've gotten bogged down modification wise as i've purchased a tahoe and a car hauler in the last few months and have been spending a lot of money traveling to shows etc.) i'm just stating that as someone who is trying to sell stuff on the forum you might want to watch your response to things.
Old 07-01-2008, 12:17 PM
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I was being sarcastic, its a joke haha. people take comments way too seriously.

All I'm saying is he needs to express & articulate his comments better in clear english so we can all understand him.
Old 07-01-2008, 01:13 PM
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2013 C63 AMG P31, 2014 GMC Sierra (6.2)
Originally Posted by Dr. C36
I was being sarcastic, its a joke haha. people take comments way too seriously.

All I'm saying is he needs to express & articulate his comments better in clear english so we can all understand him.
I just couldn't resist:
Attached Thumbnails Best way to spend 1200-seriousbusiness.jpg  
Old 07-01-2008, 01:14 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
I

understood myself quite clearly.
I did not say don't get the pulley,in fact I think for whatever they charge it is a good addition and a good way to reduce rotating mass without having to go inside the engine.
The cognomen is in reference to
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-GFqhCq2HA
from the dictionary:
Cognomen (pluralized cognomens) has also been assimilated into English, and is used more generally (i.e. outside the context of Ancient Rome and Latin naming) as a catch-all term for monikers, stage names, pen names, aliases and other adopted (or commonly applied) nicknames or professional names.
The little bowing guy is as close as I could find to honor her musical greatness.
The "GOT CODES?" is because of the number of members that now own a good code scanner that I recommend to purchase from
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94169
sometimes on sale for $39.95 and worth it's weight in gold if you can read and diagnose your own codes.I hate the dealer shop,never been in one except for warranty work.
40 years of turning my own wrenches as a hobby and listening friends bit*h about the crap the dealer shop pulled with "code"mumbo jumbo made me want to demystify the whole obd2 can I/m issue.
Sorry if you felt challenged or that it was a rant
If I could have explained the science in a shorter period of time I would have.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"




"Liberty is not the power of doing what we like, but the right to do what we ought."
Old 07-01-2008, 05:19 PM
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if 10 hp is equivalent to .1s in 1/4 mile. then do people who are making near or over 400 crank hp in their c43 making a 1 second faster 1/4 mile versus stock ones?
Old 07-01-2008, 07:10 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Almost

traction factors into the equation.But a 3600 lb.C43 with 302 h.p. should be running low to mid 14's if the driver knows how to get the best out of it.
Same car with 400 h.p. is going to be in the low 13's.maybe even high 12's
Part of that from the extra torque and the lower 60ft time if he has the proper suspension and tires to get the power down to the ground.
add h.p. or remove extra weight it is all physics P=W/T cheapest horsepower you can get put the car on a diet.5 lbs. for a pulley remove the spare,run light rims,go on a diet
Old 07-01-2008, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SeeKlasse
if 10 hp is equivalent to .1s in 1/4 mile. then do people who are making near or over 400 crank hp in their c43 making a 1 second faster 1/4 mile versus stock ones?
that is the simple equation that most people use, however in real life once you start getting towards one extreme or the other the equation is no longer linear and it becomes progressive and its no longer as simple as 100lb:10hp or 10hp:.1sec ratio, but for 90% of cars its a decent rough estimate. If you can drop 200lbs from your car while added 25-40 more HP it makes a DRASTIC difference in the overall behavior of the car b/c in reality its more like a 45-60hp swing. Weight is the enemy
Old 07-01-2008, 07:45 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
See

We are on the same page.He just says it faster
The 5lb lighter pulley not only drops weight but the reduction in mass makes the engine rev quicker.Now if these guys would just came out with an MB unit.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Rattler/
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"

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