Any audiophiles that have upgraded the stock speakers in the Bose stereo setups?
Basically the original speaker signals are going into the crossover and I have the tweeter and mid's coming off of that, as they should. Now the part that killed me was when I listened to it, the mids are clipping (I think) or just have no ability to handle any bass without sounding awful. Tweeters sound okay, however, it is hard to isolate the way they sound. One thing is for sure, the mids sound BAD low or high volume. I measured the coil on the original speakers and got a 2.3 ohm reading. The impedance of the MB quarts is 4 ohms, can this be exactly why they sound awful? Could I pop a 2ohm resistor in series going into each speaker input? Should I just cut my losses and get a 2 ohm component set? Can you even technically run components off of the rear deck channel or just a single midrange driver? Any suggestions from people who have upgraded the stock deck and door speakers?


Would you recommend going with components in place of the stock single midrange driver on the deck? Or a single midrange/bass driver powered by a separate amp (such as: http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-CompVT-.../dp/B0013FHJ8M )
I'm pretty sure there are tweeters everywhere in this system so I'm thinking component mids/tweets would be overkilling the high end.

Would you recommend going with components in place of the stock single midrange driver on the deck? Or a single midrange/bass driver powered by a separate amp (such as: http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-CompVT-.../dp/B0013FHJ8M )
I'm pretty sure there are tweeters everywhere in this system so I'm thinking component mids/tweets would be overkilling the high end.
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I also modded a H/K drive+play unit into the ash tray so the screen folds up and away inside when I park, very safe unit for ipods while you drive.


never AMP a Pre AMP output as this will magnify any noise or distortion found in the signal.
The stock amp is **** just get some good wires and route the to a new amp
btw i have alot of noise in my AMG even when the speakers are not connected to the amp or head unit
i think my rebuild alternator is the reason
need to have a new one in and see if it solves it.

P.S. Agreed about the pre-amping statement, I wouldn't suggest doing it
P.S. Agreed about the pre-amping statement, I wouldn't suggest doing it
Man the C43 has way much better sound system than that of the 36. When i was choosing of either buying the 36 or the 43 i was really impressed by the quality of the 43 sound system. But i know my self and i know that ill be replacing everything so i didnt take it into consideration.
Any way now my car has 6X9 3 way Rokfords in the rear, Rokford components up front and sub box in the trunk with ALPINE AMP for the Speakers and A ROCKFORD 800RMS amp for the subs.
Any way now my car has 6X9 3 way Rokfords in the rear, Rokford components up front and sub box in the trunk with ALPINE AMP for the Speakers and A ROCKFORD 800RMS amp for the subs.

UPDATE
Just did a bit of poking in alldata and the WIS.....on a stock NON Bose system is there an amp? I'm wondering if this is just the stock amplifier diagram or does it indeed represent the Bose hookups?
Last edited by appatula; Nov 19, 2010 at 04:32 PM.
Don't you think the original bose speakers, with no defects, sound pretty nicel just as they are. I love the damm things.
By the way, I had no sound from the right channel in my 2005 CL-600 when I first took it home. Mechanic told me probably need an amp. But I saw on this website that there have been some problems with the door wireing, so l looked at that first. If you pull back (from the door, not the car) the rubber sheath that covers the wires in the door jam, you will see three sheaths within it. The speaker wires are in the smallest of them. Feel it with your fingers, squeezing hard. If you find a part where the wires feel thinner than in the rest of the sheath, that's where they are broken. Cut the sheath carefully with a razor blade or exacto knife, so as to not do any more damage. Cut enough of it away so you can work. you do not want to replace it anway. It is what holds the wires tight in one places and makes them fold and unfold in one spot. Let them breath a little, you still have the big outer sheath to slide back in place. Splice the broken wires with butt connectors. Use a good quality crimp tool and nylon, not cheap plastic, connectors. Enjoy your Bose stereo.
Michael




the pioneer in my 98 C43 sounds like someone taped pieces of paper over the stock system. there's no clipping or obvious sound defects--they just sound bad. it just doesn't sound right. plus, the head unit is HIDEOUS. climb into my all original 99 C43 sitting next to it and it's a night vs day difference.
I also do know that my 1994 C280 had the exact same sound system as my 99 C43, except the older head unit. I can't imagine the C36 had a different (or lesser) sound system than my 94 C280's Bose.




