How hard is it to replace the control arm bushings?
11-21-2010, 11:20 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
How hard is it to replace the control arm bushings?
I was pulling in the parking garage and I heard a very slights clunk and rattle from the from end when going up to each next level in the garage. Since it only happens on uneven surfaces, I was guessing its the control arm bushings?? How hard are these to install on our cars? Also, has any one purchased this kit?
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...0Bushing%20Kit
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...0Bushing%20Kit
Last edited by austinholloman; 11-21-2010 at 11:22 PM.
11-22-2010, 12:17 AM
#2
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I just went through this whole dealio. The whole control arm needs to come out so that the bushings can be pressed out and hammered out. The 'rear' bushing is typically the one that fails. If you search older threads there are some photos of the control arm and how hard it is to spot a dead 'rear' bushing. The 'front' ones are solid, typically don't fail from what I've read. And when you look at them, you will realize why - it's a solid piece of rubber, as opposed to the rear one which has several 'spokes'.
I believe there is a special tool that will allow the bushings to be pressed out and in again without removing the control arm from the car, but it's not a cheap part. See Koch Tools' site for the too, it's like $170. A useful tool to have would be the ball joint separator tool to remove the ball joint from the lower control arm. Neither of my tools would fit, so I ended up hammering them out. But of course that killed some of the threads, so I needed new ball joints after that.
Other than that, the 'front' bushing is just hammered out, but I think needs a special tool to press back in. The 'rear' bushing needs to be pressed out. If you have two piece poly replacement bushings, then you don't need a press to put them back in. If you're gonna use OE replacement type, then you'd need a press to put them back in too.
I believe there is a special tool that will allow the bushings to be pressed out and in again without removing the control arm from the car, but it's not a cheap part. See Koch Tools' site for the too, it's like $170. A useful tool to have would be the ball joint separator tool to remove the ball joint from the lower control arm. Neither of my tools would fit, so I ended up hammering them out. But of course that killed some of the threads, so I needed new ball joints after that.
Other than that, the 'front' bushing is just hammered out, but I think needs a special tool to press back in. The 'rear' bushing needs to be pressed out. If you have two piece poly replacement bushings, then you don't need a press to put them back in. If you're gonna use OE replacement type, then you'd need a press to put them back in too.
11-22-2010, 08:18 PM
#5
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190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
I would say to check the lower ball joints and the front sway bar mounts first. they are more likely to make a noise than control arm bushes.
Easy to check the ball joints. jack the car up so the front wheels are off the ground. put a pry bar under the wheel and lift it slightly while touching the lower ball joint with the other hand. If you can feel play then you need to replace the ball joints. Very easy job, parts are cheap and no special tool required.
The sway bar support brackets are easy to check (they snap). get someone to rock the car (push quite hard) while looking at the sway bar mounts that hang down from the chassis rails. don't touch them whilst rocking as if they are broken you may get a finger caught in the crack. If they are broken then replace both.
Control arm bushes aren't normally noisy, if they are compleatly broken they they will usually only make a single solid clunk whilst reversing then suddenly braking.
Easy to check the ball joints. jack the car up so the front wheels are off the ground. put a pry bar under the wheel and lift it slightly while touching the lower ball joint with the other hand. If you can feel play then you need to replace the ball joints. Very easy job, parts are cheap and no special tool required.
The sway bar support brackets are easy to check (they snap). get someone to rock the car (push quite hard) while looking at the sway bar mounts that hang down from the chassis rails. don't touch them whilst rocking as if they are broken you may get a finger caught in the crack. If they are broken then replace both.
Control arm bushes aren't normally noisy, if they are compleatly broken they they will usually only make a single solid clunk whilst reversing then suddenly braking.
11-22-2010, 10:57 PM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Ausmbtech - how do you remove the 'horizontal' threaded portion of the ball joint from the control arm without ruining the threads? The 'vertical' portion I had no problem with, it was just a nut and then I used a ball joint separator to press it out, or it just fell out easily.
But the 'horizontal' one I couldn't get out easily, I beat it out with a hammer with detrimental effects to the threads. I couldn't get my ball joint separator in there either, and the WIS instructions say to use a special tool. Now that I've replaced everything, I don't think I'll be back in there any time soon, but I just like to have the knowledge stored.
But the 'horizontal' one I couldn't get out easily, I beat it out with a hammer with detrimental effects to the threads. I couldn't get my ball joint separator in there either, and the WIS instructions say to use a special tool. Now that I've replaced everything, I don't think I'll be back in there any time soon, but I just like to have the knowledge stored.
11-22-2010, 11:40 PM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I would say to check the lower ball joints and the front sway bar mounts first. they are more likely to make a noise than control arm bushes.
Easy to check the ball joints. jack the car up so the front wheels are off the ground. put a pry bar under the wheel and lift it slightly while touching the lower ball joint with the other hand. If you can feel play then you need to replace the ball joints. Very easy job, parts are cheap and no special tool required.
The sway bar support brackets are easy to check (they snap). get someone to rock the car (push quite hard) while looking at the sway bar mounts that hang down from the chassis rails. don't touch them whilst rocking as if they are broken you may get a finger caught in the crack. If they are broken then replace both.
Control arm bushes aren't normally noisy, if they are compleatly broken they they will usually only make a single solid clunk whilst reversing then suddenly braking.
Easy to check the ball joints. jack the car up so the front wheels are off the ground. put a pry bar under the wheel and lift it slightly while touching the lower ball joint with the other hand. If you can feel play then you need to replace the ball joints. Very easy job, parts are cheap and no special tool required.
The sway bar support brackets are easy to check (they snap). get someone to rock the car (push quite hard) while looking at the sway bar mounts that hang down from the chassis rails. don't touch them whilst rocking as if they are broken you may get a finger caught in the crack. If they are broken then replace both.
Control arm bushes aren't normally noisy, if they are compleatly broken they they will usually only make a single solid clunk whilst reversing then suddenly braking.
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11-23-2010, 10:41 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
So after tonight I am almost sure its the rear drivers side making this odd noise and to add to this, when I take off full throttle the back tire rubs the wheel well also... All of this is new. Think they are all related? Car is sitting on H&R springs, #1 (5mm) pads all around, Bilstein shocks and 18's. I drove the car real hard when I picked up in Cali and it did NOT rub there but now that Ive driven it across country, all of this has started.
