Oil leak question
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C43 AMG
Oil leak question
My mechanic found my 98 C43's oil filter housing is leaking. He quoted me about $1,000 for the replacement of gasket and sealing. Does it sound about right to you guys? Any similar experience here?
Much appreciate any inputs.
Much appreciate any inputs.
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# 1121849961
and if you need a new oil cooler then you also need to buy the above rubber kit
# 1121880401
he needs to remove a few parts to access the leak, but a 1000 bux sounds steep!
when he does the leaks, it's a good point checking out the H- Balancer condition, belt tensioner, belt is greased by the leaks, the upper plastic pulley, and the timing cover gasket for possible leaks?
I tried to link the parts it didn't work
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Dec 7, 2010 at 04:09 AM.
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eclectic assortment of cars
Here's a link to the DIY on the oil cooler o-rings. Bloody things are expensive little basterds. Make sure you shop around and don't buy them from the dealer! As Kowalski said, autohausaz is probably the best US based source. Being Canadian, I found an alternate Canadian retailer.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...il-cooler.html
You should also replace the oil pressure test port o-ring/gasket, while you're there.
I did this job in the spring and it took me a leisurely afternoon, ie. with a break half way to chill out. It helps to have the right kind of fan removal tools, ie. the specific holder and then the long, thing 32mm wrench. I have purchased both specifically for the fan removal task.
I can't remember if you need to remove the fan to get at the oil cooler, perhaps it's necessary to get at the oil pressure test port. It may not be necessary, but it does make everything substantially easier as there is a lot more room to work.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...il-cooler.html
You should also replace the oil pressure test port o-ring/gasket, while you're there.
I did this job in the spring and it took me a leisurely afternoon, ie. with a break half way to chill out. It helps to have the right kind of fan removal tools, ie. the specific holder and then the long, thing 32mm wrench. I have purchased both specifically for the fan removal task.
I can't remember if you need to remove the fan to get at the oil cooler, perhaps it's necessary to get at the oil pressure test port. It may not be necessary, but it does make everything substantially easier as there is a lot more room to work.
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Here's a link to the DIY on the oil cooler o-rings. Bloody things are expensive little basterds. Make sure you shop around and don't buy them from the dealer! As Kowalski said, autohausaz is probably the best US based source. Being Canadian, I found an alternate Canadian retailer.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...il-cooler.html
You should also replace the oil pressure test port o-ring/gasket, while you're there.
I did this job in the spring and it took me a leisurely afternoon, ie. with a break half way to chill out. It helps to have the right kind of fan removal tools, ie. the specific holder and then the long, thing 32mm wrench. I have purchased both specifically for the fan removal task.
I can't remember if you need to remove the fan to get at the oil cooler, perhaps it's necessary to get at the oil pressure test port. It may not be necessary, but it does make everything substantially easier as there is a lot more room to work.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...il-cooler.html
You should also replace the oil pressure test port o-ring/gasket, while you're there.
I did this job in the spring and it took me a leisurely afternoon, ie. with a break half way to chill out. It helps to have the right kind of fan removal tools, ie. the specific holder and then the long, thing 32mm wrench. I have purchased both specifically for the fan removal task.
I can't remember if you need to remove the fan to get at the oil cooler, perhaps it's necessary to get at the oil pressure test port. It may not be necessary, but it does make everything substantially easier as there is a lot more room to work.
yo bro.
what is this you describe?
You should also replace the oil pressure test port o-ring/gasket, while you're there.
Is it the rectangular squared gasket with a rectangular cover in metal sitting on front timing chain cover?
when you changed all these gaskets did you have to drain the complete engine from oil, suck it dry?
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These are the gaskets I mean. There is only one per car, but it is one of two types.
I actually went ahead and purchased both, as I wasn't sure which one I had. Thus I have an extra, for anyone who is interested. I believe I have an extra one of the later style gaskets, but I'd have to double check.
I actually went ahead and purchased both, as I wasn't sure which one I had. Thus I have an extra, for anyone who is interested. I believe I have an extra one of the later style gaskets, but I'd have to double check.
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These are the gaskets I mean. There is only one per car, but it is one of two types.
I actually went ahead and purchased both, as I wasn't sure which one I had. Thus I have an extra, for anyone who is interested. I believe I have an extra one of the later style gaskets, but I'd have to double check.
I actually went ahead and purchased both, as I wasn't sure which one I had. Thus I have an extra, for anyone who is interested. I believe I have an extra one of the later style gaskets, but I'd have to double check.
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Yeah, that's correct - if I remember right!
If I remember right, the casting is slightly different. While you might be able to physically jam the later style gasket into the older style casting, it won't fit properly.
If I remember right, the casting is slightly different. While you might be able to physically jam the later style gasket into the older style casting, it won't fit properly.
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early c43 engines had this poor gasket and later cars had the revised gasket.
åttohausaz provides engine parts numbers for early and later edition engines, this is difficult to see which ones we have.
my car is manufactured late 98 as 99 car, do i have the crap gasket or the revised version?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Dec 8, 2010 at 01:29 PM.
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I think you need to check your VIN or engine serial number to confirm. If you punch in your VIN to that Russian site that decodes the VIN, then it also spits out your engine serial number. Then you can cross reference which seal to get (or crank position sensor - as those are engine serial number dependent too).
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I think you need to check your VIN or engine serial number to confirm. If you punch in your VIN to that Russian site that decodes the VIN, then it also spits out your engine serial number. Then you can cross reference which seal to get (or crank position sensor - as those are engine serial number dependent too).
1 clip on lock.
does it mean i have an early engine?
other cps have 2 clip on lock is it the newer engine?
where's the russian site?
thanx
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Here's the link to the Russian VIN decoder, but it doesn't seem to be working at the moment:
http://www.mbclub.ru/no_vin.html/?lng=eng
Be careful on just labeling your engine early or late. The CPS variation runs to a certain engine serial number, but I believe there is some overlap with the engine numbers for the test port gasket, ie. there is probably a range of engines which use the early CPS and late test port gasket. You have to check your engine serial number range independently for the correct CPS and test port gasket.
http://www.mbclub.ru/no_vin.html/?lng=eng
Be careful on just labeling your engine early or late. The CPS variation runs to a certain engine serial number, but I believe there is some overlap with the engine numbers for the test port gasket, ie. there is probably a range of engines which use the early CPS and late test port gasket. You have to check your engine serial number range independently for the correct CPS and test port gasket.
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abooooout the CPS I have already changed it to prevent future fu-- ups when driving.
For this part I believe in safety and I wanted to avoid any problems that might occur because of a weak part.
So did I with the belt tensioner also, I had it changed when my HB fuc-ed up.
well I'll take both front port oilgaskets ps numbers and ask the stealership for correct part.
and then buy it from an internetshop 4 cheap bread.
I will do the same with upper oilcooler seal kit, buy from autohausazzzzzzzzzzzzz
this is the only way to do
For this part I believe in safety and I wanted to avoid any problems that might occur because of a weak part.
So did I with the belt tensioner also, I had it changed when my HB fuc-ed up.
well I'll take both front port oilgaskets ps numbers and ask the stealership for correct part.
and then buy it from an internetshop 4 cheap bread.
I will do the same with upper oilcooler seal kit, buy from autohausazzzzzzzzzzzzz
this is the only way to do
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Dec 8, 2010 at 04:28 PM.
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Here's the link to the Russian VIN decoder, but it doesn't seem to be working at the moment:
http://www.mbclub.ru/no_vin.html/?lng=eng
http://www.mbclub.ru/no_vin.html/?lng=eng
