Looking at a C36 Monday.... What to watch out for?
01-26-2011, 11:29 AM
#26
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I know this is gonna sound ultra-ghetto, but way back in the day, when my buddies and I used to lower our Acuras/Hondas, we used to simply take the entire shock/spring assembly out, cover them in a generous pile of rags/towels, have one guy put his entire weight on the assembly, while I unscrewed the spring hat against a brick wall, LOL! BANG! the spring would pop against the wall (leaving a knick!) and voila.~ 
I once tried (tried, mind you, it didn't actually work) to compress a spring with a full car hoist. Sounds stupid, coz it was. We didn't have a spring compressor, yet we were working my buddy's work shop. So we tried to rig up a contraption to compress the spring with the hoist's arms. Didn't work.
And just FYI, the shop wasn't a full on mechanic's shop. My buddy was an accident reconstruction engineer, so they had a hoist to check out wrecked cars. They had some tools, but never a spring compressor. Doh!
Anyway, you wouldn't be able to have a friend step on the spring in the Benz. It's not a coilover, so you need to compress the spring whilst it is still on the car. The clearances between the other suspension pieces and the chassis are such that the best and easiest way to do so is with the proper type of spring compressor. The cheap ones, with clamps on two threaded rods, typically don't work because of the clearance problems. And while they might compress the spring, it can be very awkward (and thus time consuming) to get it in exactly the right place to extract the spring.
01-26-2011, 02:18 PM
#27
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22 X3, 21 330e, 97 M3, 97 C36 (sold), but on the hunt for a clean, low-mile C43!
Man, that doesn't sound ultra ghetto, it IS ultra-ghetto.
I once tried (tried, mind you, it didn't actually work) to compress a spring with a full car hoist. Sounds stupid, coz it was. We didn't have a spring compressor, yet we were working my buddy's work shop. So we tried to rig up a contraption to compress the spring with the hoist's arms. Didn't work.
And just FYI, the shop wasn't a full on mechanic's shop. My buddy was an accident reconstruction engineer, so they had a hoist to check out wrecked cars. They had some tools, but never a spring compressor. Doh!
Anyway, you wouldn't be able to have a friend step on the spring in the Benz. It's not a coilover, so you need to compress the spring whilst it is still on the car. The clearances between the other suspension pieces and the chassis are such that the best and easiest way to do so is with the proper type of spring compressor. The cheap ones, with clamps on two threaded rods, typically don't work because of the clearance problems. And while they might compress the spring, it can be very awkward (and thus time consuming) to get it in exactly the right place to extract the spring.
I once tried (tried, mind you, it didn't actually work) to compress a spring with a full car hoist. Sounds stupid, coz it was. We didn't have a spring compressor, yet we were working my buddy's work shop. So we tried to rig up a contraption to compress the spring with the hoist's arms. Didn't work.
And just FYI, the shop wasn't a full on mechanic's shop. My buddy was an accident reconstruction engineer, so they had a hoist to check out wrecked cars. They had some tools, but never a spring compressor. Doh!
Anyway, you wouldn't be able to have a friend step on the spring in the Benz. It's not a coilover, so you need to compress the spring whilst it is still on the car. The clearances between the other suspension pieces and the chassis are such that the best and easiest way to do so is with the proper type of spring compressor. The cheap ones, with clamps on two threaded rods, typically don't work because of the clearance problems. And while they might compress the spring, it can be very awkward (and thus time consuming) to get it in exactly the right place to extract the spring.
01-26-2011, 03:13 PM
#28
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01-26-2011, 04:05 PM
#30
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01-26-2011, 07:11 PM
#31
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Here's my estimate of what it would cost you to do the suspension on your own:
-spring compressor - $200 - find a used one on the forums for maybe $125-150
-alignment - $100-150
-press - $100-150; or find a shop/buddy that will do the bushings for a case of beer
-triple square socket set - $35 - maybe necessary for the rear camber arms, if they had this fastener; I understand some cars may have 'normal' bolts, so check first, the sizes you need might not be readily available at the local auto parts store, might have to find a specialist supplier
-Friday night after work to rip out the front control arm, all the springs, all the shocks
-Saturday morning take the control arms to the buddy to install the bushings
-Saturday afternoon to re-install the control arm, shocks, springs
-Sunday (leisurely) to tidy up the stuff you didn't do on Friday and Saturday coz too much beer and pizza in between wrenching
-or start at 9:00am on Saturday and finish in the evening; I'm confident I could do it all in that space of time, if there was a press handy, otherwise factor in the drive to the shop/buddy with the press
-Monday morning you take the car to the alignment, wait for it to be done, drive away
The reason I got into wrenching (I have no formal training in the area) was that I didn't like waiting for, or paying shops, to do the work. No labour costs = more money available for mod parts. Simple equation!
I bought this t-shirt a while back -
http://enthusiastapparel.com/Garagis...c40cce57998f96
-spring compressor - $200 - find a used one on the forums for maybe $125-150
-alignment - $100-150
-press - $100-150; or find a shop/buddy that will do the bushings for a case of beer
-triple square socket set - $35 - maybe necessary for the rear camber arms, if they had this fastener; I understand some cars may have 'normal' bolts, so check first, the sizes you need might not be readily available at the local auto parts store, might have to find a specialist supplier
-Friday night after work to rip out the front control arm, all the springs, all the shocks
-Saturday morning take the control arms to the buddy to install the bushings
-Saturday afternoon to re-install the control arm, shocks, springs
-Sunday (leisurely) to tidy up the stuff you didn't do on Friday and Saturday coz too much beer and pizza in between wrenching
-or start at 9:00am on Saturday and finish in the evening; I'm confident I could do it all in that space of time, if there was a press handy, otherwise factor in the drive to the shop/buddy with the press
-Monday morning you take the car to the alignment, wait for it to be done, drive away
The reason I got into wrenching (I have no formal training in the area) was that I didn't like waiting for, or paying shops, to do the work. No labour costs = more money available for mod parts. Simple equation!
I bought this t-shirt a while back -
http://enthusiastapparel.com/Garagis...c40cce57998f96
Last edited by Saaboteur; 01-26-2011 at 07:14 PM.
01-27-2011, 01:18 AM
#32
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1998 C230 with amg wheels, 2007 c230, 200 Ferrari 360, 1969 Camaro z/28
Main issues:
- engine harness
- leak from front timing cover (front-right) just above the alternator, use a flashlight to check, there will be a leak that's for sure (every M104 has it), question is how bad is it
- leak from both transmission oil lines, the ones that go to the radiator
- rear bushings for the front lower arms, kinda hard to visually check, but put the car in reverse (make sure you don't run into things), accelerate and brake hard: if you hear a clunk, those are toast for sure
- drive the car on freeway to take it to higher speeds (like 70-80mph) and see if there are any vibrations... cheapest issue will be wheels out of balance, if not... driveshaft tends to develop a vibration on these cars...
- check the ASR if works correctly
- unless the car is in great condition, the headliner will be sagging;
- radio usually has a leaking lcd display (if still original), check for antenna to go up and down as you turn on/off the radio
If you can, have an obd2 reader on hand to check for codes. Take your time and press every possible button, otherwise you might end up with bunch of small issues which will kill your pocket slowly.
I bought 7 w202 cars and average checkout time for me is 40mins, i don't care what the owner things, but i'm checking everything.
Good luck
- engine harness
- leak from front timing cover (front-right) just above the alternator, use a flashlight to check, there will be a leak that's for sure (every M104 has it), question is how bad is it
- leak from both transmission oil lines, the ones that go to the radiator
- rear bushings for the front lower arms, kinda hard to visually check, but put the car in reverse (make sure you don't run into things), accelerate and brake hard: if you hear a clunk, those are toast for sure
- drive the car on freeway to take it to higher speeds (like 70-80mph) and see if there are any vibrations... cheapest issue will be wheels out of balance, if not... driveshaft tends to develop a vibration on these cars...
- check the ASR if works correctly
- unless the car is in great condition, the headliner will be sagging;
- radio usually has a leaking lcd display (if still original), check for antenna to go up and down as you turn on/off the radio
If you can, have an obd2 reader on hand to check for codes. Take your time and press every possible button, otherwise you might end up with bunch of small issues which will kill your pocket slowly.
I bought 7 w202 cars and average checkout time for me is 40mins, i don't care what the owner things, but i'm checking everything.
Good luck
01-27-2011, 02:32 AM
#33
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Not the same problems. If the 43 has been cherished, loved and well maintained you should see no major problems. The V8 is bulletproof and good for a couple of 100k's. Only weak point is/was the gearbox. The rest is standard W202 wear and tear. Oh, I was forgetting.... the front rotors are $$$$ as special two part with different directional left/right pieces.
01-27-2011, 12:40 PM
#34
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1996 C36 AMG, 1970 LeMans Sport, a truck
I know this is gonna sound ultra-ghetto, but way back in the day, when my buddies and I used to lower our Acuras/Hondas, we used to simply take the entire shock/spring assembly out, cover them in a generous pile of rags/towels, have one guy put his entire weight on the assembly, while I unscrewed the spring hat against a brick wall, LOL! BANG! the spring would pop against the wall (leaving a knick!) and voila.~
01-28-2011, 12:29 AM
#35
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To me, a CLK and the W202 (and the R170, and the W210) look alike from underneath. Before he was banned, Linh posted a "spring swap without a spring compressor" thread on BenzWorld. Basically, you use two floor jacks and drop the a-arms. If you can stomach the endless ads and the slow response time, do a search there. Also, Da Guitarist owns the correct style compessor. He was renting it out a few years back.
01-28-2011, 01:11 PM
#36
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22 X3, 21 330e, 97 M3, 97 C36 (sold), but on the hunt for a clean, low-mile C43!
To me, a CLK and the W202 (and the R170, and the W210) look alike from underneath. Before he was banned, Linh posted a "spring swap without a spring compressor" thread on BenzWorld. Basically, you use two floor jacks and drop the a-arms. If you can stomach the endless ads and the slow response time, do a search there. Also, Da Guitarist owns the correct style compessor. He was renting it out a few years back.
01-29-2011, 04:34 AM
#37
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Did you read his thread? Try it with one if you like, but Linh seemed to feel two were required for the front control arms. Several hundred pounds of spring loaded control arm could do a fair amount of bodily injury if it slipped.
01-29-2011, 06:34 PM
#38
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22 X3, 21 330e, 97 M3, 97 C36 (sold), but on the hunt for a clean, low-mile C43!
Couldn't find his thread, but thanks for the pic above, that helped! Now if there's only a way to replace the front spring w/o a spring compressor!
01-29-2011, 09:47 PM
#39
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01-30-2011, 03:25 AM
#40
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
I still think that this way is still very dicey and the risk for some serious damage or injury is too great. Get the correct spring compresser IMO
01-31-2011, 12:10 AM
#41
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Dynocomped C43K, 08 X5
I'm looking at urethanr bushings and found Deeza and Moog. I've never used them and wondering if they are any better than oem clk bushings. Please chime in and let me know
Do Powerflex make anything for us??
Do Powerflex make anything for us??
01-31-2011, 03:51 AM
#42
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Go check theses guys: http://www.k-mac.com/pages/newprods/...ercedes_05.htm
You can even do away with the adjustable camber arms as the lower bushes are adjustable
You can even do away with the adjustable camber arms as the lower bushes are adjustable
01-31-2011, 12:37 PM
#43
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That 'two jack' method still seems a bit hack, but I guess it would work.
Forgot to mention, removing the ball joint is much easier with a special tool as well. The kochtools.com site I mentioned in a previous post has such a tool. When I removed mine, I hit the ball joint out with a hammer, thus buggering up the threads, thus requiring new ball joints....
Forgot to mention, removing the ball joint is much easier with a special tool as well. The kochtools.com site I mentioned in a previous post has such a tool. When I removed mine, I hit the ball joint out with a hammer, thus buggering up the threads, thus requiring new ball joints....
01-31-2011, 03:57 PM
#45
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Anyone who considers going the free loaner tool route from [enter chain store auto parts joint here] . . . . . .
Why yes, I a bored at work. Is it that obvious?
