For those of you who have installed HIDs...




- I heard that you need to drill out the inside plastic covers to fit the bulbs. Is this true?
- Also, do you guys have the bulb-out error eliminators (do you even get the bulb out light?)?
- How are the high beam HIDs? Can you "flash" your highs with them?

- I heard that you need to drill out the inside plastic covers to fit the bulbs. Is this true?
- Also, do you guys have the bulb-out error eliminators (do you even get the bulb out light?)?
- How are the high beam HIDs? Can you "flash" your highs with them?
2.) I didn't need to install any "bulb-out error eliminators"
3.) I believe only the Bi-Xenon kits have HID brights, I am using the stock brights and they work great




2.) I didn't need to install any "bulb-out error eliminators"
3.) I believe only the Bi-Xenon kits have HID brights, I am using the stock brights and they work great

2. Do you have a 35w or 55w kit? I'm guessing that 55w kits don't need the eliminator since the stock halogens are 55/65w (lo/hi) so the current draw won't change and trigger the error.
3. I was going to get a Bi-Xenon kit, pending that I can "flash" my highs.


2. Do you have a 35w or 55w kit? I'm guessing that 55w kits don't need the eliminator since the stock halogens are 55/65w (lo/hi) so the current draw won't change and trigger the error.
3. I was going to get a Bi-Xenon kit, pending that I can "flash" my highs.
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I upgraded to the bi-xenon kit so now I have high beams, but there is a bit of an issue I have where if there is not enough power built up in the ballasts, it will cause my instrument cluster to die for a second, resetting the clock and stuff. So normally this is not a problem when turning on the xenons as long as I don't have to do it two or three times within a couple of minutes, so with the headlights off, I can flash them once with no issues, but a double flash can sometimes cause my instr. cluster to die, and I also have no idea how bright they are because they aren't warmed up or anything.
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I upgraded to the bi-xenon kit so now I have high beams, but there is a bit of an issue I have where if there is not enough power built up in the ballasts, it will cause my instrument cluster to die for a second, resetting the clock and stuff. So normally this is not a problem when turning on the xenons as long as I don't have to do it two or three times within a couple of minutes, so with the headlights off, I can flash them once with no issues, but a double flash can sometimes cause my instr. cluster to die, and I also have no idea how bright they are because they aren't warmed up or anything.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1300584695
Last edited by winks911; Jan 30, 2012 at 03:28 AM.
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...hid-projector/




Install:
Install was fairly plug and play. Drilling the covers took the most time (about 1.5 hours, given the cold, trying to drill perfect circles without cracking the plastic). Passenger side was a breeze. Driver's side took some time, since there is very little space for your hands.
I ended up 3M velcro-ing the ballasts underneath the headlight assembly for a stealth install.
Issues:
The only drawback, however, is that I get a bulb-out light. I'm honestly perplexed as I went with the 55w kit for this very reason. Can anyone shed some light on this?
Beam adjustment/non-projector housing:
I have no need to adjust the beams (vertically or horizontally) as they are hitting exactly where my halogens were. The distance the light travels, however, is much further.
Some crappy cell phone pics as my camera batteries were dead.

Install:
Install was fairly plug and play. Drilling the covers took the most time (about 1.5 hours, given the cold, trying to drill perfect circles without cracking the plastic). Passenger side was a breeze. Driver's side took some time, since there is very little space for your hands.
I ended up 3M velcro-ing the ballasts underneath the headlight assembly for a stealth install.
Issues:
The only drawback, however, is that I get a bulb-out light. I'm honestly perplexed as I went with the 55w kit for this very reason. Can anyone shed some light on this?
Beam adjustment/non-projector housing:
I have no need to adjust the beams (vertically or horizontally) as they are hitting exactly where my halogens were. The distance the light travels, however, is much further.
Some crappy cell phone pics as my camera batteries were dead.
If you do get it figured out let us know what caused the bulb out.
Last edited by nd4spd13; Jan 16, 2012 at 12:28 PM. Reason: Read 503s earlier post and he said what w his HIDs are




But the stock halogens are 55w. Maybe it's an amperage issue rather than a wattage issue, as I know HIDs use less amps continuously than halogens.
*edit*
Just saw the comment about getting a dash light with the 55w kit.. hmm.
I thought I saw this somewhere, though I could be wrong.
Hoon do you have a light out issue with the 55s in your ML?
Also wouldn't this mean that any HID kit would set of the malfunction light?
Last edited by nd4spd13; Jan 16, 2012 at 06:34 PM.




Edit: I do remember reading somewhere on the forums yesterday about the same generation ML's being unable to detect bulb-outs.






