C36 AMG, C43 AMG (W202) 1995 - 2000

Brakes for the C43

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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 04:32 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MarcusF
Personally, I think the best brake upgrade the average driver can make is to take $1K and spend a day attending high performance driving school. Most people who attend come away amazed at what they didn’t know.

Unlike rotors, pads, or ultra-sticky gumball rubber, what is learned at a school won’t wear out unless alzheimers kicks in. If $1K sounds like a lot of coinage, think about this – if you drive for the next 30 years it will have cost you about nine cents a day. Alternatively, you could take a half day course for about half price. And on the drive home WISH you hadn’t been so cheap and ponied up for the full day - like those who lap you on track day did

BTW, many hot shoes are fast because they out brake their opponent, and in many cases it has NOTHING to do with the equipment on the car.
MarcusF, I couldn't agree with you more. It is when you have explored ALL the cars limits (in most cases you will be travelling at a rate you will even surprise yourself) you will have to start thinking about upgrades. Simple stuff like choosing good quality tyres, finding the correct tyre pressure, good pads, high temp brake fluid, adapted suspension alignment, etc. won't need you taking out an additional mortgage on your house
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #27  
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Those brakes are pure pornography even if the rears look a bit lost in the rims. Fronts are TOP
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 04:49 PM
  #28  
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I prefer value, over short-term economics. Cryo-treated rotors will last twice as long and non-treated, perhaps even longer for street applications.

If you plan on keeping the car, the most economical long-term solution is to have this treatment....it could save you nearly half on two sets of rotors.

What size are the c230k sport rotors? Are they two-piece, internally vented?
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 08:48 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Chappy
I prefer value, over short-term economics. Cryo-treated rotors will last twice as long and non-treated, perhaps even longer for street applications.

If you plan on keeping the car, the most economical long-term solution is to have this treatment....it could save you nearly half on two sets of rotors.

What size are the c230k sport rotors? Are they two-piece, internally vented?
330 mm:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro.../Brake%20Rotor
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #30  
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i will not have this car long enough to worry about treating them
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 07:26 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 503C43 ////AMG
Thanks for the link. I guess the reason those are so cheap is because they're not two-piece rotors.

According to an old MarcusF thread, the factory rotors are 32mm thick, with a wear limit of 30.4mm.

Any idea on the thickness of the C230K sport rotors? What is the wear limit?
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 08:37 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by MarcusF
Personally, I think the best brake upgrade the average driver can make is to take $1K and spend a day attending high performance driving school. Most people who attend come away amazed at what they didn’t know.
Smartest statement in this thread.These cars - for 99% of the drivers - are better cars then we are drivers.Heed Marcus's advice.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 12:20 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Chappy
Thanks for the link. I guess the reason those are so cheap is because they're not two-piece rotors.

According to an old MarcusF thread, the factory rotors are 32mm thick, with a wear limit of 30.4mm.

Any idea on the thickness of the C230K sport rotors? What is the wear limit?
I would rather have 2 piece rotors then single piece rotors, that must be why the ones outlaw got are cheaper. Single piece rotors are more likely to warp under extreme heat conditions and usually weigh more than 2 piece rotors...
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 03:15 AM
  #34  
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the oe rotors are not true two piece and the reason why i replaced them was the oe rotors were warped, as far as weight i think your fooling your self, true two piece rotors have bolts all the way around which will probably weigh more then what i put on unless you are buying titanium, even the oe rotors are heavy, as a wheel dealer and tons and tons of pro racing i can tell you that most street guys are worried about unsprung weight when they should simply keep their money in their pocket and learn how to drive, my wheels tires weigh more then anyone elses at the track and you guessed it i am either fast qualifyer or in the top 3. i can see your dead set against what i have put on, which is ok with me, but dont disrespect what i have. lets face it, we all wish that our cars are super collectible, well truth is if it doesnt have less then 10k miles its probably not. as far as the thickness of the rotor they are all 32mm/1.1/4 inch. The fastest racer i ever new once told me many years ago, "if your on the brakes your slow" there is no reason to put brembos on a street car unless your getting calipers with dust seals, even then they are only for show if its not a track dedicated car. I do understand putting factory rotors on but aluminum centers with steel rotor rings makes for a warp job ready to happen especially when its not bolted together

anyway factory rotors are cool, but for the money i saved i would do it again in a hart beat, especially since the rear are one piece. you have a great looking car, anyway you go im sure you will be happy,
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Outlawlatemodel
the oe rotors are not true two piece and the reason why i replaced them was the oe rotors were warped, as far as weight i think your fooling your self, true two piece rotors have bolts all the way around which will probably weigh more then what i put on unless you are buying titanium, even the oe rotors are heavy, as a wheel dealer and tons and tons of pro racing i can tell you that most street guys are worried about unsprung weight when they should simply keep their money in their pocket and learn how to drive, my wheels tires weigh more then anyone elses at the track and you guessed it i am either fast qualifyer or in the top 3. i can see your dead set against what i have put on, which is ok with me, but dont disrespect what i have. lets face it, we all wish that our cars are super collectible, well truth is if it doesnt have less then 10k miles its probably not. as far as the thickness of the rotor they are all 32mm/1.1/4 inch. The fastest racer i ever new once told me many years ago, "if your on the brakes your slow" there is no reason to put brembos on a street car unless your getting calipers with dust seals, even then they are only for show if its not a track dedicated car. I do understand putting factory rotors on but aluminum centers with steel rotor rings makes for a warp job ready to happen especially when its not bolted together

anyway factory rotors are cool, but for the money i saved i would do it again in a hart beat, especially since the rear are one piece. you have a great looking car, anyway you go im sure you will be happy,
my intent was not to disrespect what you bought but rather determine why the rotors you bought were so cheap. I also agree that you would be hard pressed to out perform the stock brake system on the streets but that has never stopped me from wanting the best I appreciate your input but I think I am going to go with the OE brakes for piece of mind...
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 12:57 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Outlawlatemodel
been racing cars my whole life, you are putting way to much into this for a street car. my drilled rotors not only look cool but were inexpensive. none of our cars with over 50k miles will be highly collectible to mandate you have oe brakes. if you dont want c230k sport rotors weither drilled or not bounty up baby and spend 450 for the 2 front, its your money spend it how you want, but for the total invest ment of345 i have in my brakes they work as well if not better then oe, for me im happy, you can repost stuff all day long, but i have used slotted and drilled they work about the same to me, seems like anytime i have used none slotted or none drilled bolt on rotors they worped
outlaw do you have the part numbers for your setup front/rear?

oh duh - there is a friggin link to the brakes on this very page. haha noobtastic!

are these the c32 rear rotors being discussed?

Last edited by hoontastic; Apr 18, 2011 at 01:04 AM.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 02:18 AM
  #37  
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i have c32 rears with 2005 c230 sport K fronts you have to ask to make sure you get 330mm for the front
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 02:19 AM
  #38  
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sorry after several junk parts from authause i refuse to buy from them,
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 02:39 AM
  #39  
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C43K AMG 436 rwhp moded ML55 AMG 190td 190e 2.3-16v moded EK9 Civic
mine are cross drilled slotted and made in italy with no problems. I have to say the car does stop much better then stock.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 05:43 AM
  #40  
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You should check the brim on your 334 discs. It is very small. In my opinion the 330 discs are too small.

@amgmaster4343
You mean Italia disc?
I tried to find out the manufacturer but I was not successful. But I don't think they are manufactured in Italy. They are not available in European market. Probably they are made in USA.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #41  
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Where did you order from outlaw?
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 01:41 PM
  #42  
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First do you realize how small 2mm is, because 4divided by 2 for each side, when i measured the oe rotors they were more like 331 or less, i sat old on new you could not even feel the difference , so put that to rest ok, i have 5k miles on them no problems to you na sayers, I bought them from brake tech in long beach, but you can buy them anywhere, like i said 2005 c230 sport k, you have to ask to make sure they are 330mm or you will get 288mm, the rear are just c32 2002 i got the rotors that were drilled, i put the 500 bucks i saved and got ride of the worping rotor problem
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 01:46 PM
  #43  
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and the retainer bolts were in the right place
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 01:48 PM
  #44  
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so you can use oem calipers and pads and they are a direct swap or are there some details that will crop up?
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 12:39 AM
  #45  
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i used oe pads all the way around for c43, the reason i used c32 rearis because they dont make a c43 drilled, funny thing is the c32 and c43 have the same part number, no everything went as fast as a gm rotor/pad change even the retainer bolts worked, no pop ups just a direct swap, you will gigle how easy it is,
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 02:46 AM
  #46  
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can you remember the brand of rotors you went with..?
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 05:33 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Outlawlatemodel
First do you realize how small 2mm is..
Sure 2mm is not much, but the unused brim on the stock disc is even smaller.
Do you have some pics?
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 01:36 PM
  #48  
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popey24 it is obvious your against this, im fine with it, the pads are narrower then you think, the pads do not hang over the rotor, and the amg rotors were bevel cut on the edge so these rotors probably have more surface area, i am very happy with this set up, but i am not going to dwell on this,
this is a great cost effective option over the oe rotors WHICH ARE NOT TRUE 2 PIECE, heck you can even buy factory c230 sport k rotors if you like
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 01:42 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Outlawlatemodel
i used oe pads all the way around for c43, the reason i used c32 rearis because they dont make a c43 drilled, funny thing is the c32 and c43 have the same part number, no everything went as fast as a gm rotor/pad change even the retainer bolts worked, no pop ups just a direct swap, you will gigle how easy it is,
Please clarify "they" .


Here : http://www.brakeworld.com/ProductDet...D=3&P=12035048

I'll let you know how they work after I install them.
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 01:54 PM
  #50  
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Man, just no luv for the outlaw. But he's solid as a rock and you just can't BRAKE him down!
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