Idler Arm Bushing Location?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 498
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From: South Florida
1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Idler Arm Bushing Location?
I want to replace the idler arm bushing before I take it to my mechanic to get all of the other bushings and ball joints replaced, since he wants ~$100 to swap the idler arm bushing and from what I read it's an easy job. Thing is, I can't seem to find it. I've read that it's behind a [heat] shield/plate on the passenger side, 2 bolts to take off the shield. I've looked at the suspension diagrams but can't find the thing first-hand.
Help/pics?
Help/pics?
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
I want to replace the idler arm bushing before I take it to my mechanic to get all of the other bushings and ball joints replaced, since he wants ~$100 to swap the idler arm bushing and from what I read it's an easy job. Thing is, I can't seem to find it. I've read that it's behind a [heat] shield/plate on the passenger side, 2 bolts to take off the shield. I've looked at the suspension diagrams but can't find the thing first-hand.
Help/pics?
Help/pics?
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 498
Likes: 7
From: South Florida
1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 41
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Have you gotten it replaced?
I would liek to carify some things...
Passenger side, center looking to the right wheel:
Driver side, center looking to the left wheel:
Which is the idler arm..? looks like the passenger side
I would liek to carify some things...
Passenger side, center looking to the right wheel:
Driver side, center looking to the left wheel:
Which is the idler arm..? looks like the passenger side
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 498
Likes: 7
From: South Florida
1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Yes I did get it replaced. It's the passenger side (as pictured; that's it). Good luck getting it out though. I couldn't muscle it out in that tight of a spot not on a lift, so I took it to my indie.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
This EIS diagrams are super helpful but unless I'm blind it doesn't actually list what to torque the bolts back to. Does anyone know the answer to this? Replacing bushing tomorrow to try and eliminate a bad steering wobble.
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From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Ok update from removal in progress: this thing is an absolute b!tch. Definitely doesn't help that I'm only on jackstands and not a lift, but jeez.
FYI, the diagram above must be for pre facelift models, as mine is curved like an S and attaches to the bottom of the drag link. Does anyone know how to get the idler arm off of the drag link? I have removed the bolt on the end of it but it is still very attached. When I twist the idler arm the spindle moves with it, but does not turn on the other end of the drag link. I've tried hitting it with a hammer to see if it will just slip off but it won't budge
FYI, the diagram above must be for pre facelift models, as mine is curved like an S and attaches to the bottom of the drag link. Does anyone know how to get the idler arm off of the drag link? I have removed the bolt on the end of it but it is still very attached. When I twist the idler arm the spindle moves with it, but does not turn on the other end of the drag link. I've tried hitting it with a hammer to see if it will just slip off but it won't budge
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Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 172
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From: Virginia Beach
1995 AMG C36
Probably have to use a press to press it out, when we do stuff like this at work lately they just have been sending the whole units with a new bushing and we send the old part for a core.
Also you could use a vise to hold the arm then use something as a punch and hammer it out..
Also you could use a vise to hold the arm then use something as a punch and hammer it out..
Last edited by Somalia757; Aug 18, 2014 at 07:20 PM.
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Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Probably have to use a press to press it out, when we do stuff like this at work lately they just have been sending the whole units with a new bushing and we send the old part for a core.
Also you could use a vise to hold the arm then use something as a punch and hammer it out..
Also you could use a vise to hold the arm then use something as a punch and hammer it out..
I'll keep trying with the hammer tomorrow, though it didn't seem to budge at all today.
Even if I got the whole idler arm with bushing like here http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/liv...1717043OES.JPG I'd still be in the same place of getting the arm off from the drag link, like at the bottom of Saab's pic here http://s788.photobucket.com/user/vin..._0164.jpg.html
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From: Henrico, Virginia
2014 ML350 4Matic
Separating the taper of the ball joint "pins" from the drag link (and the drag link from the pitman arm for that matter) is really tough. I have the expensive M-B tool and haven't ever succeeded in separating them. I wish you well. If I ever have to deal with them again I'm going to send the job to a shop.
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From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Separating the taper of the ball joint "pins" from the drag link (and the drag link from the pitman arm for that matter) is really tough. I have the expensive M-B tool and haven't ever succeeded in separating them. I wish you well. If I ever have to deal with them again I'm going to send the job to a shop.
Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From: Virginia Beach
1995 AMG C36
Shame no one pointed out before that the post facelift version is a lot less DIY friendly than the pre. I'll keep trying with the hammer tomorrow, though it didn't seem to budge at all today. Even if I got the whole idler arm with bushing like here http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/liv...1717043OES.JPG I'd still be in the same place of getting the arm off from the drag link, like at the bottom of Saab's pic here http://s788.photobucket.com/user/vin..._0164.jpg.html
Thats true its a pain!!! Hope you figure something out. Have you tried any lube or penetrating oil?
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Separating the taper of the ball joint "pins" from the drag link (and the drag link from the pitman arm for that matter) is really tough. I have the expensive M-B tool and haven't ever succeeded in separating them. I wish you well. If I ever have to deal with them again I'm going to send the job to a shop.
But I did put a new steering damper on and cleaned up my exhaust tips
