C36 AMG, C43 AMG (W202) 1995 - 2000

C43 amg ticking sound???

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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 07:18 PM
  #26  
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Probably a combination of factors - MOT valve, oil being cold and not having proper viscosity (once it does get warm and thickens, the noise will minimize) and just the way the valves are designed and angled with the tappets. Wear...if any...should be very, very minimal and often should not play a role unless oil is not changed consistently.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 07:49 PM
  #27  
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The ticking noise does not change with temperature and is not heard on startup or at idle. it is only heard after 2000rpm and gradually fades away after 4000 as engine noise drowns it out.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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I know this is semi-off topic, but when I bought my C43 with 240k miles on it, it had more rattles in the engine than it does now. I'm pretty sure the previous owner was using cheap gas and/or cheap oil. After a few months of running NOTHING but shell v-power and a couple oil changes of Mobil 1 0w40, MUCH of the rattle is gone, and engine is performing better.

I've read on other forums that some people with the AMG M113 will switch to Mobil 1 "Turbo Diesel Truck" synthetics with 5w40, 10w40, or even up to 15w50 and hushing up these old engines.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 09:39 PM
  #29  
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Actually, the ticking noise (coming from valves) does minimize with temperature since the viscosity of the oil increases (the weight factor). The MOT valve always ticks however and sometimes it does so in rapid fire succession and at other times, sounding almost like an intake or exhaust valve. What has worked for me is 3 quarts of Royal Purple) (10w/40 and 5 quarts of Mobil 1 (0w/40). The additives in Royal Purple in addition to the "stock" have worked for me. Just sayin.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 10:01 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Nice c43
Actually, the ticking noise (coming from valves) does minimize with temperature since the viscosity of the oil increases (the weight factor). The MOT valve always ticks however and sometimes it does so in rapid fire succession and at other times, sounding almost like an intake or exhaust valve. What has worked for me is 3 quarts of Royal Purple) (10w/40 and 5 quarts of Mobil 1 (0w/40). The additives in Royal Purple in addition to the "stock" have worked for me. Just sayin.
I guess nobody wants to listen to the dealer tech with the same car and had the same problem. yea just change to thicker weight oil...that's definitely not good advice as the tolerances in the engine are designed to have the recommended oil run in it at all times. in doing so(running higher weight oil) you can cause too high of oil pressures...thus spinning a crank or rod bearing. can cause extra wear on oil pump and cause premature failure. you carry a higher risk of sludging. clogged oil gallies..thus cause valve train noise and list goes on. but don't take my advice bc I certainly have no idea what I'm talking about.


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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 10:36 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Nice c43
Actually, the ticking noise (coming from valves) does minimize with temperature since the viscosity of the oil increases (the weight factor). The MOT valve always ticks however and sometimes it does so in rapid fire succession and at other times, sounding almost like an intake or exhaust valve. What has worked for me is 3 quarts of Royal Purple) (10w/40 and 5 quarts of Mobil 1 (0w/40). The additives in Royal Purple in addition to the "stock" have worked for me. Just sayin.

and just for the record. valves DO NOT tick. lifters and injectors can make a ticking sound. and also the mot valve makes a ticking sound only when its running/being actuated. and should not run constantly. it should come on for a bit then will go off for a bit. but what do I know.


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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 12:53 AM
  #32  
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I checked the injectors with a small piece of pipe, they seem to be all the same noise level at idle and I cant seem to here the ticking when reving at idle either?.

The noise I have sounds like lifter noise,but doesnt act like worn lifters do.

When I bought the car somone had changed from mobil 1 to some other 10-40 for 2000km's,I changed back to mobil one, no change in ticking noise.

wierd

Last edited by 23K; Mar 11, 2013 at 12:56 AM.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 04:21 AM
  #33  
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Sounds to me like a sticky lifter. Does it go away if you accelerate the engine a bit and comes back at idle?
My c240 does it from time to time since many years, despite using Mobil1 or other similar grade oils. To finish, I'm living with the sound. Perhaps doing a oil flush with MB recommended products may free up the oil passage to the lifter

Last edited by DRBC43AMG; Mar 12, 2013 at 04:29 AM. Reason: completed post
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 01:48 PM
  #34  
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Hmm, it doesnt tick at idle, or on cold startup. only ticks above ~2000 - 2500rpm and slowly fades out after 4500 i think due to engine noise drowning it out,Does this sound like a sticky lifter?.


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Last edited by Pagz; Mar 12, 2013 at 01:50 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Pagz
Hmm, it doesnt tick at idle, or on cold startup. only ticks above ~2000 - 2500rpm and slowly fades out after 4500 i think due to engine noise drowning it out,Does this sound like a sticky lifter?.


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Hmmm, I don't think so, but it could indeed be the chain
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 09:36 PM
  #36  
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Very interesting, Can you elaberate on what may make the chain tick?, I can understand that if there was not enough oil pressure on the tensioner or it was sticking it may tick due to low chain tension.

I wonder if removing and reseting the tensioner my be a good start point,I have never done one on a M113, I have the MB WIS so will check how much effort is needed tonight, if its alot then maybe just replace with a new one?.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 09:59 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Pagz
Very interesting, Can you elaberate on what may make the chain tick?, I can understand that if there was not enough oil pressure on the tensioner or it was sticking it may tick due to low chain tension.

I wonder if removing and reseting the tensioner my be a good start point,I have never done one on a M113, I have the MB WIS so will check how much effort is needed tonight, if its alot then maybe just replace with a new one?.
already did all of this. resetting timing chain...which can't be done etc. nobody wants to read the techs post or advice. look at a few threads down called m113 engine rattle at idle.


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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:47 PM
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Thanks for the advice, I did read your thread earlier but did not consider the symptoms you mentioned to be directly comparable to mine, ie I don't have a rattle, its a tick.

I don't have any noise at idle,or when revving the engine from a stand still so removing the aux belt probably wont help and I'm not keen on driving it anywhere without the water pump.

The noise is only there from around 2500 - 4500 rpm and sounds a lot like lifter noise.

Are any of your symtoms like this?.

Also did you measure your chain?,Im interested in what went wrong ie was the stretch from worn parts creating play in the link,or was the link actually stretched?

thanks
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 07:57 AM
  #39  
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The viscosity of the oil does change with temp. Hence 0/40. No one is saying to put a thicker oil in...although i have been adding 3 quarts of 10/40 royal p for over 6 years now without an oil related prob. The "valves" ticking obviously mean the valvetrain and is just a simple way of saying it. Remember...part of the reason 0/40 is recommended is because of freezing temperatures in some areas and since benzes are used and sold all over the world, the engineers needed to make sure the oil could flow properly. Wonder why that thick syrupy lucas oil is still in business? Because it sometimes works. But i would not recommend for our cars. My combo works for me since taking the averages of the oil weight it equates to roughly a 3/40 weight. Not enough weight, imho to cause damage.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 09:42 AM
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and just to be clear...I am not saying anyone is wrong or even to put a different weighted oil other than manufacturers recommendation...just saying what worked for me.
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