Oil Pressure gauge install!
12-25-2012, 03:25 AM
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1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Oil Pressure gauge install!
Here she is, the write up on installing an oil pressure gauge in the C43.
First off, for anyone not following the conversation in Saaboteur's thread, here's the parts list for the install:
Mercedes trim piece:
Assorted adapters and braided SS line:
EAR-64191924ERL (Braided SS line. 24" so I could mount the sender around the pass. headlight area)
EAR-9919BFGERL (Adapter that goes from Oil Pressure Testport to AN -4 fittings)
EAR-998704ERL (Adapter from -4AN to 1/8NPT for the pressure sender to plug into)
EAR-AT921104ERL (90deg fitting to route oil line away from belt)
MB crush washer to go in between fitting and oil pressure test port.
I also decided to pick up a new style test port and gasket, as mine is probably leaking.
For gauges I used the VDO Viewline Ivory series, as they look pretty close to our white instr. cluster, and illuminate almost the same shade of orange as our lights (with the exception of a red needle vs white)
Gauge: A2C53413312-S
Sender:
Plus the bezel of your choosing.
For wiring, the gauge comes with it's own loom, but you will need to extend the wires for the sender signal and (if applicable) the warning contact. The manual for this gauge says to use 18awg, but Lowes was out so I used 16, plus whatever your preferred method for attaching wires together is.
Other than that it's wire strippers, crimpers, and assorted screw drivers. Plus a 51mm drill piece (the gauges are 52mm, but I only know of 51mm bits, so I just drilled and shaved away just a tad and it fits perfectly)
Step 1: Undo the negative battery terminal. I always disregard this as it comes at the beginning of every DIY whether remotely electrical or not, but this time, actually DO IT!! I found myself unplugging things that could go awry before even thinking that there could be power still going to it.
Step 2: Start by taking off the centre trim in the car.
You'll need the radio keys for the radio and the A/C controller. I unplugged both and set them aside. Then I undid the two screws above the radio
and above the phone unit/sunglass cubby/tape holder. 
After that, shift out of park, take of the little plastic ring around the gear shift (will come up easily with a flathead screwdriver) and take up the wood gearshift trim. Then take out either the deep cubby or ashtray and unplug the little plug from the 12v socket. 
You should be seeing this now:
Step 3: Decide where you're getting your power, ground, and illumination power and ground from. I decided to get my power from the wire going to the 12v socket, get my illumination (just a 12v that's switched by the light switch) from the plug for the phone unit (it's the solid blue wire if you go this route)
, and ground it on one of the allen bolts that hold down the SRS box. 
(NOTE #1: the "salmon" pinkish/brownish and green wire into the 12v socket connecter is 12v+, and the brown is grnd. The grey (and something else I believe) may be illumination, which would be MUCH easier to tap into than the plug for the phone. NOTE #2: There may be an issue with using the SRS mount as a ground. I will know for sure when I install the sender permanently, and will update)
Step 4: Wire those puppies up. For the VDO loom: Red is 12v (or 24v) +, black is ground -, red and yellow is warning light +12v (just connect to same place as red,) and blue and red is illumination. This is everything that should be connected right behind the gauge. The green is for the sender signal, and yellow and black is for warning contact ground - (where it hooks up on the sender.) There is a brown wire that is not used, and a black and blue wire that is to be used as a ground if the sender is a "floating ground" type.
Step 5: Remove pass. foot duct cover and knee bolster. 3 screws for bolster and one twist "screw" for foot duct cover.
Step 6: Feed sender and warning contact wire through to foot well. For simplicity I just had mine pop out by the vacuum lines behind the foot duct flap.
Step 7: Drill hole in trim piece (make sure to measure before hand! Especially if you'll be adding more gauges later), install gauge, if wanted, hookup battery, plug the VDO connector into the gauge and make sure it all fires up when you turn the key, and lights up when you turn the lights on. But remember to unplug the battery again!!
Step 8: Pop the hood. Decide where you want to pass the wires through the firewall.
At first glance this grommet with a lone green vacuum line passing through seemed like the best bet (and simplest) but upon inspection in the engine bay it seemed that this area was very open to the elements
So I followed the other wires
into a plastic tunnel 
that I discovered was the ECU box. This is the most protected and OEM way to pass the wires through. Undo the 4 screws that hold the cover on the box, remove the cover, and start taking the plug off the ECU (the two metal bits, not the black part, except for the 2 or 3 plugs that are part of the harness that runs over the metal parts (see aren't you glad you undid your battery earlier?)
This is a lot easier than it looks, and it's impossible to put the connectors back the wrong way, so don't worry. Undo the one black screw on the engine side of the box so that the black centre section that both silver ecu boxes are bolted to can just slide right up. Take it out, put it somewhere dry and safe, and stick two wires down into the hole at the back where the other wires go. Go back inside the car and you will hopefully see your wires sticking out 
Tuck the wires away neatly inside the ECU box (I ziptied to another loom) and begin to reinstall the ECU. I got the two wires out of the box by putting them between the plastic edge and the rubber grommet that contains the engine harness.
So under the bottom of that whole rubber bit. 
Close up the ECU and route the wires up to where you will be mounting your senders.
Step 9:
Connect the wires you just routed through to the green sender wire from your gauge loom, and the yellow and black wire. Hopefully you weren't as dumb as me and used two different coloured wires for the two different uses, or at least marked which wire end corresponded to what on the other end of it.
Step 10: Reassemble everything. Tuck up your wires and shorten/ziptie as needed, screw the knee bolster and air vent back on, put your centre console trim back together (storage bin/ash tray, then gear shift trim + plastic, then gauge trim, then centre wood. Screw in gauge trim at the top, then wood trim by the radio, then plug in A/C and radio and slide back into place.)
PART 2 Coming soon, which will include installing the sender and wiring that up, via removing the radiator, replacing the oil cooler seals, oil filter housing seal, and oil pressure test port cover and seal!
Huge thank to Saaboteur for his abuntant expertise and help with parts, even when he has sold his 202!
And thank to Kowalski for the idea and working with me figuring out parts and install methods and such.
Hopefully I didn't miss anything, as this is my first actual full write up!
First off, for anyone not following the conversation in Saaboteur's thread, here's the parts list for the install:
Mercedes trim piece:
Assorted adapters and braided SS line:
EAR-64191924ERL (Braided SS line. 24" so I could mount the sender around the pass. headlight area)
EAR-9919BFGERL (Adapter that goes from Oil Pressure Testport to AN -4 fittings)
EAR-998704ERL (Adapter from -4AN to 1/8NPT for the pressure sender to plug into)
EAR-AT921104ERL (90deg fitting to route oil line away from belt)
MB crush washer to go in between fitting and oil pressure test port.
I also decided to pick up a new style test port and gasket, as mine is probably leaking.
For gauges I used the VDO Viewline Ivory series, as they look pretty close to our white instr. cluster, and illuminate almost the same shade of orange as our lights (with the exception of a red needle vs white)
Gauge: A2C53413312-S
Sender:
Plus the bezel of your choosing.
For wiring, the gauge comes with it's own loom, but you will need to extend the wires for the sender signal and (if applicable) the warning contact. The manual for this gauge says to use 18awg, but Lowes was out so I used 16, plus whatever your preferred method for attaching wires together is.
Other than that it's wire strippers, crimpers, and assorted screw drivers. Plus a 51mm drill piece (the gauges are 52mm, but I only know of 51mm bits, so I just drilled and shaved away just a tad and it fits perfectly)
Step 1: Undo the negative battery terminal. I always disregard this as it comes at the beginning of every DIY whether remotely electrical or not, but this time, actually DO IT!! I found myself unplugging things that could go awry before even thinking that there could be power still going to it.
Step 2: Start by taking off the centre trim in the car.
You'll need the radio keys for the radio and the A/C controller. I unplugged both and set them aside. Then I undid the two screws above the radio
and above the phone unit/sunglass cubby/tape holder. After that, shift out of park, take of the little plastic ring around the gear shift (will come up easily with a flathead screwdriver) and take up the wood gearshift trim. Then take out either the deep cubby or ashtray and unplug the little plug from the 12v socket. You should be seeing this now:
Step 3: Decide where you're getting your power, ground, and illumination power and ground from. I decided to get my power from the wire going to the 12v socket, get my illumination (just a 12v that's switched by the light switch) from the plug for the phone unit (it's the solid blue wire if you go this route)
, and ground it on one of the allen bolts that hold down the SRS box. (NOTE #1: the "salmon" pinkish/brownish and green wire into the 12v socket connecter is 12v+, and the brown is grnd. The grey (and something else I believe) may be illumination, which would be MUCH easier to tap into than the plug for the phone. NOTE #2: There may be an issue with using the SRS mount as a ground. I will know for sure when I install the sender permanently, and will update)Step 4: Wire those puppies up. For the VDO loom: Red is 12v (or 24v) +, black is ground -, red and yellow is warning light +12v (just connect to same place as red,) and blue and red is illumination. This is everything that should be connected right behind the gauge. The green is for the sender signal, and yellow and black is for warning contact ground - (where it hooks up on the sender.) There is a brown wire that is not used, and a black and blue wire that is to be used as a ground if the sender is a "floating ground" type.
Step 5: Remove pass. foot duct cover and knee bolster. 3 screws for bolster and one twist "screw" for foot duct cover.
Step 6: Feed sender and warning contact wire through to foot well. For simplicity I just had mine pop out by the vacuum lines behind the foot duct flap.
Step 7: Drill hole in trim piece (make sure to measure before hand! Especially if you'll be adding more gauges later), install gauge, if wanted, hookup battery, plug the VDO connector into the gauge and make sure it all fires up when you turn the key, and lights up when you turn the lights on. But remember to unplug the battery again!!
Step 8: Pop the hood. Decide where you want to pass the wires through the firewall.
At first glance this grommet with a lone green vacuum line passing through seemed like the best bet (and simplest) but upon inspection in the engine bay it seemed that this area was very open to the elements
So I followed the other wires
into a plastic tunnel that I discovered was the ECU box. This is the most protected and OEM way to pass the wires through. Undo the 4 screws that hold the cover on the box, remove the cover, and start taking the plug off the ECU (the two metal bits, not the black part, except for the 2 or 3 plugs that are part of the harness that runs over the metal parts (see aren't you glad you undid your battery earlier?)
This is a lot easier than it looks, and it's impossible to put the connectors back the wrong way, so don't worry. Undo the one black screw on the engine side of the box so that the black centre section that both silver ecu boxes are bolted to can just slide right up. Take it out, put it somewhere dry and safe, and stick two wires down into the hole at the back where the other wires go. Go back inside the car and you will hopefully see your wires sticking out Tuck the wires away neatly inside the ECU box (I ziptied to another loom) and begin to reinstall the ECU. I got the two wires out of the box by putting them between the plastic edge and the rubber grommet that contains the engine harness.
So under the bottom of that whole rubber bit. Close up the ECU and route the wires up to where you will be mounting your senders.
Step 9:
Connect the wires you just routed through to the green sender wire from your gauge loom, and the yellow and black wire. Hopefully you weren't as dumb as me and used two different coloured wires for the two different uses, or at least marked which wire end corresponded to what on the other end of it.
Step 10: Reassemble everything. Tuck up your wires and shorten/ziptie as needed, screw the knee bolster and air vent back on, put your centre console trim back together (storage bin/ash tray, then gear shift trim + plastic, then gauge trim, then centre wood. Screw in gauge trim at the top, then wood trim by the radio, then plug in A/C and radio and slide back into place.)
PART 2 Coming soon, which will include installing the sender and wiring that up, via removing the radiator, replacing the oil cooler seals, oil filter housing seal, and oil pressure test port cover and seal!
Huge thank to Saaboteur for his abuntant expertise and help with parts, even when he has sold his 202!
And thank to Kowalski for the idea and working with me figuring out parts and install methods and such.
Hopefully I didn't miss anything, as this is my first actual full write up!
Last edited by nd4spd13; 12-25-2012 at 03:32 AM.
12-25-2012, 05:15 AM
#2
Hi buddy.
Nice write up.
Will be following this thread forever.
You know you can switch outer rings on these gauges for more stylish chrome looks.
If you get the chrome frame for gear selector, gauges and frame will match the interior looks.
I'm getting chrome rings.
When you install your new oel port cover with your new gasket, keep an eye on your oel pressure warning light on your cluster.
Also pop your hood frequently when you can.
Like I told you before, new cover with new style gasket might leak on you, as it did on my car.
Therefore keep an eye on everything, we don't want you to fry your engine.
Take a look at these pictures from my new oel port cover with old style gasket.
When you remove your factory supplied oelport cover take pictures of it, front and back - with gasket insert and without gasket - I need to now how it's designed - how backcover is casted -, then we can compare with the new designed oel port cover if it can be used with OLD style gasket with adapters and SS braided line?
SAABOteur
If you still have your C43 engine in your garage, I appreciate if you can when you have free time, unbolt your oelport cover and take a picture of your engine's oelport entrance slot, take a picture of your cover too.
Hopefully slot is the same as seen on your 55 engine when you did the install?
Thanks
Nice write up.
Will be following this thread forever.
You know you can switch outer rings on these gauges for more stylish chrome looks.
If you get the chrome frame for gear selector, gauges and frame will match the interior looks.
I'm getting chrome rings.
When you install your new oel port cover with your new gasket, keep an eye on your oel pressure warning light on your cluster.
Also pop your hood frequently when you can.
Like I told you before, new cover with new style gasket might leak on you, as it did on my car.
Therefore keep an eye on everything, we don't want you to fry your engine.
Take a look at these pictures from my new oel port cover with old style gasket.
When you remove your factory supplied oelport cover take pictures of it, front and back - with gasket insert and without gasket - I need to now how it's designed - how backcover is casted -, then we can compare with the new designed oel port cover if it can be used with OLD style gasket with adapters and SS braided line?
SAABOteur
If you still have your C43 engine in your garage, I appreciate if you can when you have free time, unbolt your oelport cover and take a picture of your engine's oelport entrance slot, take a picture of your cover too.
Hopefully slot is the same as seen on your 55 engine when you did the install?
Thanks
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 03-12-2013 at 09:43 AM.
12-25-2012, 01:44 PM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Good job! Looking forward to see how you will run the braided line off the test port!
My C43 engine is sitting in the C43, and the C43 is still at my parents' place. I have my 55 motor in the garage, but it's minus friggin cold right now (-25*) so I'm staying inside.
I'll grab some comparison shots in the spring when I have both motors sitting next to each other again.
My C43 engine is sitting in the C43, and the C43 is still at my parents' place. I have my 55 motor in the garage, but it's minus friggin cold right now (-25*) so I'm staying inside.
I'll grab some comparison shots in the spring when I have both motors sitting next to each other again.
12-25-2012, 04:01 PM
#4
Good job! Looking forward to see how you will run the braided line off the test port!
My C43 engine is sitting in the C43, and the C43 is still at my parents' place. I have my 55 motor in the garage, but it's minus friggin cold right now (-25*) so I'm staying inside.
I'll grab some comparison shots in the spring when I have both motors sitting next to each other again.
My C43 engine is sitting in the C43, and the C43 is still at my parents' place. I have my 55 motor in the garage, but it's minus friggin cold right now (-25*) so I'm staying inside.
I'll grab some comparison shots in the spring when I have both motors sitting next to each other again.
I have seen your pics of the 55 engine oel port cover, no need to waste time for this.
I'm only interested in the C43 oelport design, do the comparing in spring next year.
12-26-2012, 12:55 AM
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
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1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Hi buddy.
Nice write up.
Will be following this thread forever.
You know you can switch outer rings on these gauges for more stylish chrome looks.
If you get the chrome frame for gear selector, gauges and frame will match the interior looks.
I'm getting chrome rings.
When you install your new oel port cover with your new gasket, keep an eye on your oel pressure warning light on your cluster.
Also pop your hood frequently when you can.
Like I told you before, new cover with new style gasket might leak on you, as it did on my car.
Therefore keep an eye on everything, we don't want you to fry your engine.
Take a look at these pictures from my new oel port cover with old style gasket.
When you remove your factory supplied oelport cover take pictures of it, front and back - with gasket insert and without gasket - I need to now how it's designed - how backcover is casted -, then we can compare with the new designed oel port cover if it can be used with OLD style gasket with adapters and SS braided line?
SAABOteur
If you still have your C43 engine in your garage, I appreciate if you can when you have free time, unbolt your oelport cover and take a picture of your engine's oelport entrance slot, take a picture of your cover too.
Hopefully slot is the same as seen on your 55 engine when you did the install?
Thanks
Nice write up.
Will be following this thread forever.
You know you can switch outer rings on these gauges for more stylish chrome looks.
If you get the chrome frame for gear selector, gauges and frame will match the interior looks.
I'm getting chrome rings.
When you install your new oel port cover with your new gasket, keep an eye on your oel pressure warning light on your cluster.
Also pop your hood frequently when you can.
Like I told you before, new cover with new style gasket might leak on you, as it did on my car.
Therefore keep an eye on everything, we don't want you to fry your engine.
Take a look at these pictures from my new oel port cover with old style gasket.
When you remove your factory supplied oelport cover take pictures of it, front and back - with gasket insert and without gasket - I need to now how it's designed - how backcover is casted -, then we can compare with the new designed oel port cover if it can be used with OLD style gasket with adapters and SS braided line?
SAABOteur
If you still have your C43 engine in your garage, I appreciate if you can when you have free time, unbolt your oelport cover and take a picture of your engine's oelport entrance slot, take a picture of your cover too.
Hopefully slot is the same as seen on your 55 engine when you did the install?
Thanks
I will definitely note very closely the way the block looks when I take the old cover off, and the way the old cover and gasket are, and how it is when I install the new. Hopefully it won't leak, as I talked to the mb parts guy and there is no difference there between older and newer M113s in this area, so I'll just have to keep an eye on it. I picked up an older style gasket too, just in case.
My only complaint after having the gauge installed in the car for a day: where am I going to mount them when I buy my Euro Command?!
12-26-2012, 04:37 AM
#6
does euro commad work in Canada?
you have to put the gauges on A-pillar like on all ricer cars.
I have a chrome AMG gearknob and gear surround, I think it will look good with chrome rings.
when do you plan to fit the pressure sender?
you do it by yourself or a shop doing it for you?
don't forget taking pictures of how you route the loom and braided line.
when are you getting the other 2 gauges?
will look weird with only one gauge.
oel leak from new cover + gasket didn't happen right away, took me 2 days of driving or so and then the warning light lit up in my cluster.
scared me to shiit when it happened, had to stop the car immediately, oil was squirting like a c-nt getting wet!
you have to put the gauges on A-pillar like on all ricer cars.
I have a chrome AMG gearknob and gear surround, I think it will look good with chrome rings.
when do you plan to fit the pressure sender?
you do it by yourself or a shop doing it for you?
don't forget taking pictures of how you route the loom and braided line.
when are you getting the other 2 gauges?
will look weird with only one gauge.
oel leak from new cover + gasket didn't happen right away, took me 2 days of driving or so and then the warning light lit up in my cluster.
scared me to shiit when it happened, had to stop the car immediately, oil was squirting like a c-nt getting wet!
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 12-26-2012 at 04:41 AM.
12-26-2012, 02:49 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
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1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
does euro commad work in Canada?
you have to put the gauges on A-pillar like on all ricer cars.
I have a chrome AMG gearknob and gear surround, I think it will look good with chrome rings.
when do you plan to fit the pressure sender?
you do it by yourself or a shop doing it for you?
don't forget taking pictures of how you route the loom and braided line.
when are you getting the other 2 gauges?
will look weird with only one gauge.
oel leak from new cover + gasket didn't happen right away, took me 2 days of driving or so and then the warning light lit up in my cluster.
scared me to shiit when it happened, had to stop the car immediately, oil was squirting like a c-nt getting wet!
you have to put the gauges on A-pillar like on all ricer cars.
I have a chrome AMG gearknob and gear surround, I think it will look good with chrome rings.
when do you plan to fit the pressure sender?
you do it by yourself or a shop doing it for you?
don't forget taking pictures of how you route the loom and braided line.
when are you getting the other 2 gauges?
will look weird with only one gauge.
oel leak from new cover + gasket didn't happen right away, took me 2 days of driving or so and then the warning light lit up in my cluster.
scared me to shiit when it happened, had to stop the car immediately, oil was squirting like a c-nt getting wet!
I was planning on doing the sender and gaskets today, but it's been pi$$ing rain all day, so it's put off until tomorrow. I'll be sure to take tons of photos, like the first part.
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12-27-2012, 06:55 PM
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
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1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Part 2!
This part shows how to remove the oil to water cooler and the oil pressure test port, and where I installed my sender and how that all worked out.
It would have undoubtedly been much easier to work and see with the radiator removed, though I did not remove it and managed just fine.
Step .5: Remove the front engine cover and the air breather tubes, or just the whole filter assembly
Step 1: drain the coolant. There is a small red screw-plug on the bottom right (looking at the front of the car) of the radiator. Unscrew it with a flathead driver and let the waterworks begin.
Step 2: remove the large coolant hose right at the front of the block, to the left of the oil cooler. There is a screw clamp on the block, and another screw clamp on the downwards facing spout on the right side of the radiator. Empty out the pipe if there's leftover coolant in it, and swing it up onto the top of the engine and out of the way. Then move on to the two small rubber pipes coming off of the oil cooler. I'd recommend removing the top one of these two squeeze-clips, as the bottom pipe is a pain to put back on.
Step 3: Unscrew the oil filter cap, remove the oil filter, and unscrew the large nut inside with a 1 and 13/16th socket with extension.
After this the oil cooler and oil filter housing will come right off. The oil filter housing gasket will be revealed, and you can easily undo the 4 Torx bolts that hold the oil cooler to the oil filter housing to replace the gaskets inside there.
Step 4: get a buddy and a 17mm socket and ratchet. Crawl under the front of the car and find the belt tensioner pulley. It should have a black dust cover on it, and be located a little to the right and up a tad from the crank pulley. Right bellow this there will be a 17mm "bolt". Stick the ratchet on and turn to undo it: this will move the tensioner and provide slack on the belt so your buddy can slide the belt off one of the easy to reach pulleys. Don't worry that when you let the ratchet go it will travel a lot further than it did before.
Step 5: manipulate the belt out of the way as needed so you can access the oil pressure test port. You will need a Torx socket (yes, socket not driver) to undo the two fasteners holding it on. I forget the exact size I used atm. Unscrew the fasteners and you should be able to get the cover off.
Step 6:
put your new gasket in your new style test port cover, and install your m12 -4an adapter, 90degree fitting and hose. Tighten all fasteners before mounting on the car and make sure the crush washer is sealed in there between the adapter and the test port.
Step 7: Mount and re-screw in the new test port cover. BE VERY CAREFUL WHICH WAY YOU INSTALL IT!!! Without really looking intently at the piece, it seems that it does not matter which way it is installed: This is incorrect!! One side is longer than the other. The side where the fastener is in line with the edge of the cover goes on the top! If you install it the other way, there will be a large lip on the top side. You will be able to feel the gasket with your finger, and the cover will not seal at all. Ask me how I know
my engine got a nice oil pressure-wash the first time I cranked the car.
If you are using the new style cover, the writing on the cover should be upside down when installed correctly.
Step 8: Route your braided hose and ziptie it where you put it so it doesn't slide in the way of the belt and/or fan
Step 9: torque the fasteners on the oil test port. Again, be VERY careful with this. I saw one torque spec that said 15nm, and one that said 8nm. I managed to strip the aluminum threads on the block for the test port fasteners. REALLY not good
Step 10: Install the new gasket underneath the oil filter housing and reinstall the oil filter housing and oil cooler.
Step 11: Bring your buddy back, twist the belt tensioner bolt counter clockwise again and have him slip the belt back on and make sure their fingers are out of the way before you let go of the ratchet. Make sure all the teeth are in their grooves and everything on the belt lines up. Also make sure that the belt isn't touching the oil line anywhere.
Step 12: Reinstall the coolant hose, tighten the drain plug back up if you didn't earlier, and tighten up and check all of the fittings you've touched and one last check of the new oil line.
Step 13: Install the -4an to 1/8thNPT adapter on the end of the oil line, then screw in the the sender. Tighten them up nice and snug.
Step 14: Find the wires you routed into the engine bay earlier, crimp on some circular connectors and attach them to your sender, remembering which wire goes to which terminal form when you marked them earlier.
Step 15: Tidy up the wires and get ready for the test run. Have the buddy from earlier standing by to tell you to kill the car if there's any oil leakage. If your gauge pegs and stays there with the warning light on, you've just got the posts switched around.
It would have undoubtedly been much easier to work and see with the radiator removed, though I did not remove it and managed just fine.
Step .5: Remove the front engine cover and the air breather tubes, or just the whole filter assembly
Step 1: drain the coolant. There is a small red screw-plug on the bottom right (looking at the front of the car) of the radiator. Unscrew it with a flathead driver and let the waterworks begin.
Step 2: remove the large coolant hose right at the front of the block, to the left of the oil cooler. There is a screw clamp on the block, and another screw clamp on the downwards facing spout on the right side of the radiator. Empty out the pipe if there's leftover coolant in it, and swing it up onto the top of the engine and out of the way. Then move on to the two small rubber pipes coming off of the oil cooler. I'd recommend removing the top one of these two squeeze-clips, as the bottom pipe is a pain to put back on.
Step 3: Unscrew the oil filter cap, remove the oil filter, and unscrew the large nut inside with a 1 and 13/16th socket with extension.
After this the oil cooler and oil filter housing will come right off. The oil filter housing gasket will be revealed, and you can easily undo the 4 Torx bolts that hold the oil cooler to the oil filter housing to replace the gaskets inside there.
Step 4: get a buddy and a 17mm socket and ratchet. Crawl under the front of the car and find the belt tensioner pulley. It should have a black dust cover on it, and be located a little to the right and up a tad from the crank pulley. Right bellow this there will be a 17mm "bolt". Stick the ratchet on and turn to undo it: this will move the tensioner and provide slack on the belt so your buddy can slide the belt off one of the easy to reach pulleys. Don't worry that when you let the ratchet go it will travel a lot further than it did before.
Step 5: manipulate the belt out of the way as needed so you can access the oil pressure test port. You will need a Torx socket (yes, socket not driver) to undo the two fasteners holding it on. I forget the exact size I used atm. Unscrew the fasteners and you should be able to get the cover off.
Step 6:
put your new gasket in your new style test port cover, and install your m12 -4an adapter, 90degree fitting and hose. Tighten all fasteners before mounting on the car and make sure the crush washer is sealed in there between the adapter and the test port.
Step 7: Mount and re-screw in the new test port cover. BE VERY CAREFUL WHICH WAY YOU INSTALL IT!!! Without really looking intently at the piece, it seems that it does not matter which way it is installed: This is incorrect!! One side is longer than the other. The side where the fastener is in line with the edge of the cover goes on the top! If you install it the other way, there will be a large lip on the top side. You will be able to feel the gasket with your finger, and the cover will not seal at all. Ask me how I know
my engine got a nice oil pressure-wash the first time I cranked the car. If you are using the new style cover, the writing on the cover should be upside down when installed correctly.
Step 8: Route your braided hose and ziptie it where you put it so it doesn't slide in the way of the belt and/or fan
Step 9: torque the fasteners on the oil test port. Again, be VERY careful with this. I saw one torque spec that said 15nm, and one that said 8nm. I managed to strip the aluminum threads on the block for the test port fasteners. REALLY not good
Step 10: Install the new gasket underneath the oil filter housing and reinstall the oil filter housing and oil cooler.
Step 11: Bring your buddy back, twist the belt tensioner bolt counter clockwise again and have him slip the belt back on and make sure their fingers are out of the way before you let go of the ratchet. Make sure all the teeth are in their grooves and everything on the belt lines up. Also make sure that the belt isn't touching the oil line anywhere.
Step 12: Reinstall the coolant hose, tighten the drain plug back up if you didn't earlier, and tighten up and check all of the fittings you've touched and one last check of the new oil line.
Step 13: Install the -4an to 1/8thNPT adapter on the end of the oil line, then screw in the the sender. Tighten them up nice and snug.
Step 14: Find the wires you routed into the engine bay earlier, crimp on some circular connectors and attach them to your sender, remembering which wire goes to which terminal form when you marked them earlier.
Step 15: Tidy up the wires and get ready for the test run. Have the buddy from earlier standing by to tell you to kill the car if there's any oil leakage. If your gauge pegs and stays there with the warning light on, you've just got the posts switched around.
Last edited by nd4spd13; 12-28-2012 at 07:17 PM.
12-28-2012, 05:40 AM
#9
looking good
you did a great job
did u find orange caps for bulb?
it lights up in orange.
where did you buy your oel pressure sender?
these VDO's seem to be very cheap in North America.
in germany they are very expensive.
do you know if these senders are multi readers?
meaning they read BAR and Psi?
did you find the cheapest webshop?
can you post link?
was it difficult and tight to install the adapter?
check for oel leak signs under a week of driving, have a flashlight present for possible oil gushing fountains?
you need to press your car harder to provoce a leak.
oel reading gauge, what's the maximum oel pressure rate seen after fully warmed up driving your car?
does needle come close to 150Psi?
now u need to fit the other 2 gauges
get some quality smutt pictures of your oel pressure sender install.
you did a great job
did u find orange caps for bulb?
it lights up in orange.
where did you buy your oel pressure sender?
these VDO's seem to be very cheap in North America.
in germany they are very expensive.
do you know if these senders are multi readers?
meaning they read BAR and Psi?
did you find the cheapest webshop?
can you post link?
was it difficult and tight to install the adapter?
check for oel leak signs under a week of driving, have a flashlight present for possible oil gushing fountains?
you need to press your car harder to provoce a leak.
oel reading gauge, what's the maximum oel pressure rate seen after fully warmed up driving your car?
does needle come close to 150Psi?
now u need to fit the other 2 gauges
get some quality smutt pictures of your oel pressure sender install.
12-28-2012, 06:47 PM
#10
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1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
looking good
you did a great job
did u find orange caps for bulb?
it lights up in orange.
where did you buy your oel pressure sender?
these VDO's seem to be very cheap in North America.
in germany they are very expensive.
do you know if these senders are multi readers?
meaning they read BAR and Psi?
did you find the cheapest webshop?
can you post link?
was it difficult and tight to install the adapter?
check for oel leak signs under a week of driving, have a flashlight present for possible oil gushing fountains?
you need to press your car harder to provoce a leak.
oel reading gauge, what's the maximum oel pressure rate seen after fully warmed up driving your car?
does needle come close to 150Psi?
now u need to fit the other 2 gauges
get some quality smutt pictures of your oel pressure sender install.
you did a great job
did u find orange caps for bulb?
it lights up in orange.
where did you buy your oel pressure sender?
these VDO's seem to be very cheap in North America.
in germany they are very expensive.
do you know if these senders are multi readers?
meaning they read BAR and Psi?
did you find the cheapest webshop?
can you post link?
was it difficult and tight to install the adapter?
check for oel leak signs under a week of driving, have a flashlight present for possible oil gushing fountains?
you need to press your car harder to provoce a leak.
oel reading gauge, what's the maximum oel pressure rate seen after fully warmed up driving your car?
does needle come close to 150Psi?
now u need to fit the other 2 gauges
get some quality smutt pictures of your oel pressure sender install.
Nope, the cluster illuminates like that right out of the box! Didn't have to mess with the bulbs whatsoever.
I actually bought them from the site you posted earlier, http://www.egauges.com
The sender sends only one signal, and it is in OHMs, then whatever gauge you get (as long as it corresponds with the OHM range of the sender) will display either PSI or Bar, and in my case it says both.
It was a little tight to install the adapter if that's all you're doing. With the oil to water cooler out, the big coolant hose at the front out and the belt off of the pulley it wasn't that bad, and taking out the radiator would have made it even easier. I will definitely be checking for any leaks as soon as the oil from yesterdays install accident is cleaned up.
The gauge goes nowhere near 150. It actually has lower pressure once the oil is warm. At cold startup, it idles around 40psi going up to 80psi with revs, then once warm (coolant gauge up to 80c) it idles right at 20psi and revs between 30 and 80psi.
Definitely will be getting 2 more gauges eventually, maybe after a Eurocharged tune
12-29-2012, 03:49 AM
#11
that tiny oel leak you had a few days ago?
didn't quite understand what happened?
did it happen because you put the new cover upside down cover didn't seal correct and gasket was sticking out,
how was this possible that you could touch the gasket with your fingers,oel port cover should seal everything?
maybe this is what happend on my car last year, putting the oelcover port the wrong way?
can you take pictures of your old style oelport cover, front and back side.
need to see what it looks like on the backside where gasket sits.
how much of metal meat there is VS backside of new cover?
can you see if new style gasket would fit in the old oelport cover slot?
Also copy and paste front and rear picture of my NEW style cover and you can compare with your factory supplied.
What's the difference between both other than centre screw with crusher gasket?
Get your self a long wireloom sock for each wireloom kit if you don't hide all wirelooms in one and the same sock, now with your install and with future gauges, you'll have a snakepit of wirelooms in your engine bay.
I think these are braided socks were you can hide your loom inside an then reroute your wireloom.
this way it will look like a professionall install.
I cross my fingers that your new oelport cover will hold tight on your engine
without any future oel leaks.
thanks
didn't quite understand what happened?
did it happen because you put the new cover upside down cover didn't seal correct and gasket was sticking out,
how was this possible that you could touch the gasket with your fingers,oel port cover should seal everything?
maybe this is what happend on my car last year, putting the oelcover port the wrong way?
can you take pictures of your old style oelport cover, front and back side.
need to see what it looks like on the backside where gasket sits.
how much of metal meat there is VS backside of new cover?
can you see if new style gasket would fit in the old oelport cover slot?
Also copy and paste front and rear picture of my NEW style cover and you can compare with your factory supplied.
What's the difference between both other than centre screw with crusher gasket?
Get your self a long wireloom sock for each wireloom kit if you don't hide all wirelooms in one and the same sock, now with your install and with future gauges, you'll have a snakepit of wirelooms in your engine bay.
I think these are braided socks were you can hide your loom inside an then reroute your wireloom.
this way it will look like a professionall install.
I cross my fingers that your new oelport cover will hold tight on your engine
without any future oel leaks.
thanks
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 03-12-2013 at 09:43 AM.
12-29-2012, 06:02 AM
#12
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00 C200 & 00 C55 & 06 SLK55
Really Really great work....,,
Do you think if you change the oil Brand, the Viscosity & Temp. well NOT changed in the gauge reading....??
ZAYED,,
,, Do you think if you change the oil Brand, the Viscosity & Temp. well NOT changed in the gauge reading....??
ZAYED,,
12-29-2012, 03:15 PM
#14
Found a shop selling these gauge senders very cheap.
A lot cheaper than in Europe.
I was thinking of getting my senders from USA instead.
I just wanna be sure I get the correct sized senders, so this is only a dubblecheck with you guys who has the correct input regarding thread size.
VDO oel pressure sender: 360-025 (150PSI/10BAR - w@11.4 1/8-27 NPT)
or
VDO oel pressure sender: M12x1.5
Are both above thread sizes equivalent to each other?
One sender used for NA market, the other sender used for European market?
Does it matter which one I get?
VDO oel temperature sender: 323 - 055D - M14x1.5 -
Please confirm which ones of these threadsizes are correct for our C43's.
I don't want getting the wrong parts.
Thanks
A lot cheaper than in Europe.
I was thinking of getting my senders from USA instead.
I just wanna be sure I get the correct sized senders, so this is only a dubblecheck with you guys who has the correct input regarding thread size.
VDO oel pressure sender: 360-025 (150PSI/10BAR - w@11.4 1/8-27 NPT)
or
VDO oel pressure sender: M12x1.5
Are both above thread sizes equivalent to each other?
One sender used for NA market, the other sender used for European market?
Does it matter which one I get?
VDO oel temperature sender: 323 - 055D - M14x1.5 -
Please confirm which ones of these threadsizes are correct for our C43's.
I don't want getting the wrong parts.
Thanks
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 12-29-2012 at 03:20 PM.
12-29-2012, 11:49 PM
#15
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1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
that tiny oel leak you had a few days ago?
didn't quite understand what happened?
did it happen because you put the new cover upside down cover didn't seal correct and gasket was sticking out,
how was this possible that you could touch the gasket with your fingers,oel port cover should seal everything?
maybe this is what happend on my car last year, putting the oelcover port the wrong way?
can you take pictures of your old style oelport cover, front and back side.
need to see what it looks like on the backside where gasket sits.
how much of metal meat there is VS backside of new cover?
can you see if new style gasket would fit in the old oelport cover slot?
Also copy and paste front and rear picture of my NEW style cover and you can compare with your factory supplied.
What's the difference between both other than centre screw with crusher gasket?
Get your self a long wireloom sock for each wireloom kit if you don't hide all wirelooms in one and the same sock, now with your install and with future gauges, you'll have a snakepit of wirelooms in your engine bay.
I think these are braided socks were you can hide your loom inside an then reroute your wireloom.
this way it will look like a professionall install.
I cross my fingers that your new oelport cover will hold tight on your engine
without any future oel leaks.
thanks
didn't quite understand what happened?
did it happen because you put the new cover upside down cover didn't seal correct and gasket was sticking out,
how was this possible that you could touch the gasket with your fingers,oel port cover should seal everything?
maybe this is what happend on my car last year, putting the oelcover port the wrong way?
can you take pictures of your old style oelport cover, front and back side.
need to see what it looks like on the backside where gasket sits.
how much of metal meat there is VS backside of new cover?
can you see if new style gasket would fit in the old oelport cover slot?
Also copy and paste front and rear picture of my NEW style cover and you can compare with your factory supplied.
What's the difference between both other than centre screw with crusher gasket?
Get your self a long wireloom sock for each wireloom kit if you don't hide all wirelooms in one and the same sock, now with your install and with future gauges, you'll have a snakepit of wirelooms in your engine bay.
I think these are braided socks were you can hide your loom inside an then reroute your wireloom.
this way it will look like a professionall install.
I cross my fingers that your new oelport cover will hold tight on your engine
without any future oel leaks.
thanks
I will take some pictures of my old style cover soon, but no, the new style gasket will not fit with the old style cover.
I'll look into one of these socks. thanks!
I hope so too. I used three cans of brake cleaner on the engine bay today, so any new leaks should reveal themselves pretty quickly.
Thanks!
Found a shop selling these gauge senders very cheap.
A lot cheaper than in Europe.
I was thinking of getting my senders from USA instead.
I just wanna be sure I get the correct sized senders, so this is only a dubblecheck with you guys who has the correct input regarding thread size.
VDO oel pressure sender: 360-025 (150PSI/10BAR - w@11.4 1/8-27 NPT)
or
VDO oel pressure sender: M12x1.5
Are both above thread sizes equivalent to each other?
One sender used for NA market, the other sender used for European market?
Does it matter which one I get?
VDO oel temperature sender: 323 - 055D - M14x1.5 -
Please confirm which ones of these threadsizes are correct for our C43's.
I don't want getting the wrong parts.
Thanks
A lot cheaper than in Europe.
I was thinking of getting my senders from USA instead.
I just wanna be sure I get the correct sized senders, so this is only a dubblecheck with you guys who has the correct input regarding thread size.
VDO oel pressure sender: 360-025 (150PSI/10BAR - w@11.4 1/8-27 NPT)
or
VDO oel pressure sender: M12x1.5
Are both above thread sizes equivalent to each other?
One sender used for NA market, the other sender used for European market?
Does it matter which one I get?
VDO oel temperature sender: 323 - 055D - M14x1.5 -
Please confirm which ones of these threadsizes are correct for our C43's.
I don't want getting the wrong parts.
Thanks
For the engine oil temp, M14x1.5 is the size of the stock oil pan plug. VDO says you can use these gauges in place of the stock pan plugs, so if you want to go this route, that is the correct size for you. If you are planning to make a hole in your oil pan for the sender, than get whatever size you want to make the hole.
12-30-2012, 05:42 AM
#16
thanks for your help buddy.
I just ordered an oel temp sender.
cost me $24 dollars incl. shipping, that's an awesome price!
$18 bux cheaper then in Germany.
gotta love american prices!
regarding adapter parts, maybe I should either go with all M12x1.5 parts or if I buy the 1/8-27NPT sender which is cheaper, I will then have to get rest of the other adapter parts which you linked from Summit racing shop.
M12x1.5 = 150Psi/10BAR oel pressure sender cost $99.95 dollars in Germany.
1/8-27NPT 150PSI/10BAR oel pressure sender cost approx $45 dollars.
It's a NO brainer which one to get!
I noticed another thing?
That VDO 150PSI sender you bought:
1/8"-27NPT, switchpoint warns for low oel pressure @ 11.4PSI = 0.8BAR.
There are other senders with 1/8"-27NPT, switchpoint warns for low oel pressure @ 7PSI=0.5BAR,
or switch point warns @ 11.5PSI = 0.8BAR
Not sure what to buy now because there are 3 different 1/8"-27NPT senders and one M12x1.5 sender available?
Maybe getting a sender that warns @ earlier stage @ 7PSI = 0.5BAR is better?
What ya say?
I just ordered an oel temp sender.
cost me $24 dollars incl. shipping, that's an awesome price!
$18 bux cheaper then in Germany.
gotta love american prices!
regarding adapter parts, maybe I should either go with all M12x1.5 parts or if I buy the 1/8-27NPT sender which is cheaper, I will then have to get rest of the other adapter parts which you linked from Summit racing shop.
M12x1.5 = 150Psi/10BAR oel pressure sender cost $99.95 dollars in Germany.
1/8-27NPT 150PSI/10BAR oel pressure sender cost approx $45 dollars.
It's a NO brainer which one to get!
I noticed another thing?
That VDO 150PSI sender you bought:
1/8"-27NPT, switchpoint warns for low oel pressure @ 11.4PSI = 0.8BAR.
There are other senders with 1/8"-27NPT, switchpoint warns for low oel pressure @ 7PSI=0.5BAR,
or switch point warns @ 11.5PSI = 0.8BAR
Not sure what to buy now because there are 3 different 1/8"-27NPT senders and one M12x1.5 sender available?
Maybe getting a sender that warns @ earlier stage @ 7PSI = 0.5BAR is better?
What ya say?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 12-30-2012 at 06:30 AM.
12-31-2012, 04:54 AM
#17
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Kowalski, you think you got a good deal? Wait until Swedish customs have finished added the taxes 
Personally I would get a sender with a higher switchpoint which will give you a early warning of low oil pressure
Personally I would get a sender with a higher switchpoint which will give you a early warning of low oil pressure
12-31-2012, 05:23 AM
#18
I got away cheap this time.
oel pressure switchpoints were the only ones seen in VDO pdf catalogue IIRC?
is it better to buy one which gives warning @ 0.8BAR =11.5PSI than earlier stage @ 0.5BAR = 7PSI?
I don't think there are other senders available from VDO @ a consumer friendly price?
12-31-2012, 06:18 PM
#19
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1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
I won't get any steep taxes on this oel temp sender because it's below a certain limit.
I got away cheap this time.
oel pressure switchpoints were the only ones seen in VDO pdf catalogue IIRC?
is it better to buy one which gives warning @ 0.8BAR =11.5PSI than earlier stage @ 0.5BAR = 7PSI?
I don't think there are other senders available from VDO @ a consumer friendly price?
I got away cheap this time.
oel pressure switchpoints were the only ones seen in VDO pdf catalogue IIRC?
is it better to buy one which gives warning @ 0.8BAR =11.5PSI than earlier stage @ 0.5BAR = 7PSI?
I don't think there are other senders available from VDO @ a consumer friendly price?
01-01-2013, 02:57 AM
#20
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Hi nd4,
What oil do you have in your engine? Perhaps it needs a change... Agree with you for a lower value warning sender to avoid possible heart attacks
What oil do you have in your engine? Perhaps it needs a change... Agree with you for a lower value warning sender to avoid possible heart attacks
01-01-2013, 03:21 AM
#21
Today after running a lot of errands, the temp was up towards 100c and I was idling at a light when the oil pressure warning light illuminated on the gauge. The cars oil warning light didn't come on, and the car wasn't low on oil or anything. I've noticed there are still a few stray drips of oil coming from the engine, but nothing large enough to warrant a real warning light. Therefore I'd say that if you have the option a 7psi warning may be better as a "holy crap" warning, or use the 11.5psi warning (what I have) as a "hey, watch out" warning.
it starts with tiny leaks and then after a few days of driving, oil will be squirting and will mess up your engine.
worst thing happen you will be stranded somewhere with an low oel level?
happen to me, had to tow my car to my buddy's shop for a cover/gasket switch!
where's the picture of your old style cover?
I need to compare the new one VS old one's back side, how much metal is molded around old style square hollow gasket
Take a picture of front side aswell, need to know if it is molded solid or if it's designed like new cover with a bolt and crush washer.
01-07-2013, 12:06 AM
#22
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1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
this is what I was talking about, you have to monitor your oelcover port from now on!
it starts with tiny leaks and then after a few days of driving, oil will be squirting and will mess up your engine.
worst thing happen you will be stranded somewhere with an low oel level?
happen to me, had to tow my car to my buddy's shop for a cover/gasket switch!
where's the picture of your old style cover?
I need to compare the new one VS old one's back side, how much metal is molded around old style square hollow gasket
Take a picture of front side aswell, need to know if it is molded solid or if it's designed like new cover with a bolt and crush washer.
it starts with tiny leaks and then after a few days of driving, oil will be squirting and will mess up your engine.
worst thing happen you will be stranded somewhere with an low oel level?
happen to me, had to tow my car to my buddy's shop for a cover/gasket switch!
where's the picture of your old style cover?
I need to compare the new one VS old one's back side, how much metal is molded around old style square hollow gasket
Take a picture of front side aswell, need to know if it is molded solid or if it's designed like new cover with a bolt and crush washer.
Basically the way it's designed is the new style gasket replaces a lot of the metal on the old style cover. Sorry pics took so long. Basically I still do have an oil leak. It's driving me a little crazy, because there is consistently oil on the engine side of the radiator, so it seems that there is some decent pressure pushing the oil out, but I have looked closely with the engine idling, being jerk-revved, and held at higher RPMs and there is NOTHING! This was done when the engine was both hot and cold, and the pressure gauge is consistent. It does seem that the leak is originating at the oil pressure test port cover, but I'm not sure if it is due to the new style gasket and cover, or the fact that the bolt holes are stripped out and not applying enough torque to put pressure on the gasket.
01-07-2013, 06:09 AM
#23
hi bud
thanks for these pics.
they were very much needed.
old style oel port cover sure does have a different design vs the new one.
now I know why my car leaked oel last year, new port cover is not made for my car.
don't drive your car anymore!!
it starts with small leaks, then it will start squirting oil, messing up your engine.
can you unscrew the centre bolt on your old style cover?
if yes, then try to connect your SS hose to your old cover.
otherwise you have to get the 3rd version oel cover
I spoked with stealership parts department.
I was told there is a 3rd version oel port cover sold for Middle east market.
this cover has an extra oel sender connection.
I ordered this part and will be getting it this week.
this cover should be able to connect to the braided SS line with an M12x1.5 thread.
I'll post pics when I get it
thanks again for your pictures
thanks for these pics.
they were very much needed.
old style oel port cover sure does have a different design vs the new one.
now I know why my car leaked oel last year, new port cover is not made for my car.
don't drive your car anymore!!
it starts with small leaks, then it will start squirting oil, messing up your engine.
can you unscrew the centre bolt on your old style cover?
if yes, then try to connect your SS hose to your old cover.
otherwise you have to get the 3rd version oel cover
I spoked with stealership parts department.
I was told there is a 3rd version oel port cover sold for Middle east market.
this cover has an extra oel sender connection.
I ordered this part and will be getting it this week.
this cover should be able to connect to the braided SS line with an M12x1.5 thread.
I'll post pics when I get it
thanks again for your pictures
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 01-07-2013 at 06:17 AM.
01-09-2013, 07:28 AM
#24
nd4spd13
hey buddy.
I got my new oelport cover for SS-braided line
See what a design difference there is between 3 covers?
I wonder if this new oel cover with the M12x1.5 head fits early versions C43 engines compared to oel port seen from your picture where the rear part is chunky and the new ports are flat and chiseled?
this new cover with added head looks to be the same as the other newer version cap which I got an oel leak from last year?
Did you find out if you can unscrew the bolt from your old style oel cover?
Forgot to ask.
when you pulled out the oel pressure wirelooms from wall, did wireloom go through the ecu box?
is there an exit hole from ecu box for loom to go through?
I don't want any water to enter my cabin, therefore re-routing the loom perfectly without damaging any rubber seal bushings on firewall would be the best way to install everything.
which way did you pull out and route your loom into the engine bay?
hey buddy.
I got my new oelport cover for SS-braided line
See what a design difference there is between 3 covers?
I wonder if this new oel cover with the M12x1.5 head fits early versions C43 engines compared to oel port seen from your picture where the rear part is chunky and the new ports are flat and chiseled?
this new cover with added head looks to be the same as the other newer version cap which I got an oel leak from last year?
Did you find out if you can unscrew the bolt from your old style oel cover?
Forgot to ask.
when you pulled out the oel pressure wirelooms from wall, did wireloom go through the ecu box?
is there an exit hole from ecu box for loom to go through?
I don't want any water to enter my cabin, therefore re-routing the loom perfectly without damaging any rubber seal bushings on firewall would be the best way to install everything.
which way did you pull out and route your loom into the engine bay?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 03-12-2013 at 09:43 AM.
01-09-2013, 05:46 PM
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1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
nd4spd13
hey buddy.
I got my new oelport cover for SS-braided line
See what a design difference there is between 3 covers?
I wonder if this new oel cover with the M12x1.5 head fits early versions C43 engines compared to oel port seen from your picture where the rear part is chunky and the new ports are flat and chiseled?
this new cover with added head looks to be the same as the other newer version cap which I got an oel leak from last year?
Did you find out if you can unscrew the bolt from your old style oel cover?
Forgot to ask.
when you pulled out the oel pressure wirelooms from wall, did wireloom go through the ecu box?
is there an exit hole from ecu box for loom to go through?
I don't want any water to enter my cabin, therefore re-routing the loom perfectly without damaging any rubber seal bushings on firewall would be the best way to install everything.
which way did you pull out and route your loom into the engine bay?
hey buddy.
I got my new oelport cover for SS-braided line
See what a design difference there is between 3 covers?
I wonder if this new oel cover with the M12x1.5 head fits early versions C43 engines compared to oel port seen from your picture where the rear part is chunky and the new ports are flat and chiseled?
this new cover with added head looks to be the same as the other newer version cap which I got an oel leak from last year?
Did you find out if you can unscrew the bolt from your old style oel cover?
Forgot to ask.
when you pulled out the oel pressure wirelooms from wall, did wireloom go through the ecu box?
is there an exit hole from ecu box for loom to go through?
I don't want any water to enter my cabin, therefore re-routing the loom perfectly without damaging any rubber seal bushings on firewall would be the best way to install everything.
which way did you pull out and route your loom into the engine bay?
It looks like the inside of your new oil port cover looks like the inside of my new oil port cover, and therefore would take the new style gasket, no? Did your tech person tell you this old (thin) style gasket fit the third, middle east cover you got? If you want to try it, it would help me to know if this 3rd cover and new style gasket installed on your car leak or not, with proper torque, the cover the right way up, and the gasket the right way around.
When I asked my tech about differences in the block, he told me there is NO differences around the oil pressure port, and that both kinds of port should fit.
I wish my leak was bad and squirting so I could finally pinpoint where it is coming from. I have a hunch it's because my threads are stripped, and not because of the gasket type.
Yes, the center bolt of the old cover can be removed.
Regarding the wiring, the cover of the ECU box is the biggest water protector there. After removing that top cover, besides the actual ECU it is a straight shot into the cabin above the passenger's feet. I shoved the two wires down where the other wires from the box go and they stick out into the cabin. To get them out of the ECU black box, I didn't want to alter any of the existing grommets (seals with OEM wires coming out) so I lifted the rubber grommet for the engine harness up, put the wire under the grommet (so in between the grommet and the edge of the black box) and pushed the grommet back down to seal around the oil sender wires as best they could. This probably isn't the best way to seal them, but it is simple, should seal them enough, and there shouldn't be any water coming from that direction anyway.
Hope this helps
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