Little problems... typical or no?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 19
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From: Wilmington, DE
1999 C43
Little problems... typical or no?
Suspension needs aside, I've got a few minor annoyances that are going to drive me crazy if left alone. I'm wondering if these are common and if there's any hot tips for repairs before I start draining the pension...
-- Horn inop. They test fine, and fuse is good (assuming it's the "fanfare" fuse under the hood). Time to remove and disembowel the steering wheel? Any hot tips (e.g. battery disconnect) for wheel removal?
-- Trunk release button inop. Works with key. Pull up console and dig around? Buy new switch? Sell the car?
-- Oil level light has mind of its own... and to a lesser degree, the bulb failure light.
-- Seat bolster controls inop, or sure feel that way. Separate circuit? Or they're worthless even if working?
-- And the bolster switch inop notwithstanding... These seats kinda suck. Feels like a barcalounger. Any direct replacements from a model with actual sport seats?
-- Signal/dip/wiper combo switch feels used up. High beams intermittent, and signal action feels fragile. Big $$$ new? Easy swap?
Which reminds me: Any good lines on a shop manual?
Thanks again y'all.
Dave in Delaware
-- Horn inop. They test fine, and fuse is good (assuming it's the "fanfare" fuse under the hood). Time to remove and disembowel the steering wheel? Any hot tips (e.g. battery disconnect) for wheel removal?
-- Trunk release button inop. Works with key. Pull up console and dig around? Buy new switch? Sell the car?
-- Oil level light has mind of its own... and to a lesser degree, the bulb failure light.
-- Seat bolster controls inop, or sure feel that way. Separate circuit? Or they're worthless even if working?
-- And the bolster switch inop notwithstanding... These seats kinda suck. Feels like a barcalounger. Any direct replacements from a model with actual sport seats?
-- Signal/dip/wiper combo switch feels used up. High beams intermittent, and signal action feels fragile. Big $$$ new? Easy swap?
Which reminds me: Any good lines on a shop manual?
Thanks again y'all.
Dave in Delaware
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
The bolster problem is probably due to a disconnected air hose. Pull the back of the seat off (2 screws at the bottom of the cover) and you should see the "Y" with a hose disconnected. This is VERY common.
The bulb out light is probably the tails lights. The assembly gets melted and warped from heat, this causes the lights to loose connection. open the trunk and pull the circuit board assembly out and if the problem is as I am explainin it will be obvious. I fixed mine with super glue and then wound up replacing them (I think I got them for $15 a piece on autohausaz.com)
the oil light, are you sure you are not low on oil? I got low on oil once and the oil light was intermittent.
Turn signal switch is cheap ($46) but replacing it is NO JOKE.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ignal%20Switch
For a shop manual see if you can get a copy of the WIS. This is the electronic shop manual that is distributed to the dealership by MB. It has pretty much everything you need to know about your car.
hope this helps
The bulb out light is probably the tails lights. The assembly gets melted and warped from heat, this causes the lights to loose connection. open the trunk and pull the circuit board assembly out and if the problem is as I am explainin it will be obvious. I fixed mine with super glue and then wound up replacing them (I think I got them for $15 a piece on autohausaz.com)
the oil light, are you sure you are not low on oil? I got low on oil once and the oil light was intermittent.
Turn signal switch is cheap ($46) but replacing it is NO JOKE.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ignal%20Switch
For a shop manual see if you can get a copy of the WIS. This is the electronic shop manual that is distributed to the dealership by MB. It has pretty much everything you need to know about your car.
hope this helps
Last edited by 503C43 ////AMG; May 9, 2013 at 11:49 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Suspension needs aside, I've got a few minor annoyances that are going to drive me crazy if left alone. I'm wondering if these are common and if there's any hot tips for repairs before I start draining the pension...
-- Horn inop. They test fine, and fuse is good (assuming it's the "fanfare" fuse under the hood). Time to remove and disembowel the steering wheel? Any hot tips (e.g. battery disconnect) for wheel removal?
By test fine you mean you powered the actual horns and they work? If so just make sure to keep battery disconnected and do NOT turn the key on (past unlocking the wheel) when SRS connections are undone.
-- Trunk release button inop. Works with key. Pull up console and dig around? Buy new switch? Sell the car?
I'd dig around and see what you get. Seems to be coffee's favourite switch.
-- Oil level light has mind of its own... and to a lesser degree, the bulb failure light.
As 503 said
-- Seat bolster controls inop, or sure feel that way. Separate circuit? Or they're worthless even if working?
Same as 503, though also check around for leaks. The pump is in the trunk on the right side behind the trim, there's a hose that likes to get trapped in the seat rails and leak underneath the front seats, and even maybe the connections on the actual selector itself. Don't fret about this too much, they're not all that great anyway.
-- And the bolster switch inop notwithstanding... These seats kinda suck. Feels like a barcalounger. Any direct replacements from a model with actual sport seats?
Unless you want to try retrofitting something, period correct Recaros are the only other thing I've heard of.
-- Signal/dip/wiper combo switch feels used up. High beams intermittent, and signal action feels fragile. Big $$$ new? Easy swap?
Not expensive. If you'll be taking off airbag and wheel to check the horn stuff it's not a ton of extra work. I've done my indicator stalk and cruise control stalk too. Just be sure not to mess up the clockspring, unless that's the culprit of the horn being inop. already.
Which reminds me: Any good lines on a shop manual?
Thanks again y'all.
Dave in Delaware
-- Horn inop. They test fine, and fuse is good (assuming it's the "fanfare" fuse under the hood). Time to remove and disembowel the steering wheel? Any hot tips (e.g. battery disconnect) for wheel removal?
By test fine you mean you powered the actual horns and they work? If so just make sure to keep battery disconnected and do NOT turn the key on (past unlocking the wheel) when SRS connections are undone.
-- Trunk release button inop. Works with key. Pull up console and dig around? Buy new switch? Sell the car?
I'd dig around and see what you get. Seems to be coffee's favourite switch.
-- Oil level light has mind of its own... and to a lesser degree, the bulb failure light.
As 503 said
-- Seat bolster controls inop, or sure feel that way. Separate circuit? Or they're worthless even if working?
Same as 503, though also check around for leaks. The pump is in the trunk on the right side behind the trim, there's a hose that likes to get trapped in the seat rails and leak underneath the front seats, and even maybe the connections on the actual selector itself. Don't fret about this too much, they're not all that great anyway.
-- And the bolster switch inop notwithstanding... These seats kinda suck. Feels like a barcalounger. Any direct replacements from a model with actual sport seats?
Unless you want to try retrofitting something, period correct Recaros are the only other thing I've heard of.
-- Signal/dip/wiper combo switch feels used up. High beams intermittent, and signal action feels fragile. Big $$$ new? Easy swap?
Not expensive. If you'll be taking off airbag and wheel to check the horn stuff it's not a ton of extra work. I've done my indicator stalk and cruise control stalk too. Just be sure not to mess up the clockspring, unless that's the culprit of the horn being inop. already.
Which reminds me: Any good lines on a shop manual?
Thanks again y'all.
Dave in Delaware
Chris
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
1999 C43
Both replies very helpful... thank you! FYI, it seemed this car had been previously serviced by some hamfisted buffoon who probably specialized in Chevy Barettas or something... And his obvious presence around the IC means I'll b checking that while the wheel is off and the combo switch is replaced.
I'll be elbow-deep tomorrow and will report back.
-dc-
I'll be elbow-deep tomorrow and will report back.
-dc-
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
1999 C43 AMG
oil level light may also be indicating a bad oil level sensor. this being if the oil is in fact at the proper level and now low. the oil level sensor is a common problem...tech speaking. and horn. if not working and fuse is good. locate the horn underhood. disconnect the power wires and connect a volt meter and hit the horn switch on wheel. if you get power switching on and off then it's simple and you may just have a bad horn. if no power at those wires then you may have an issue. or possibly a bad horn switch but doubtful. but start with that
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE
1999 C43
The horn turned out to be a fuse. Not sure which one; many fuses were of the wrong amperage so I replaced every one. Definitely OCD set in.
The main reason I did it was in hopes of resolving the recent simultaneous failure of the ESC Off and cruise control. Suggestions?
The main reason I did it was in hopes of resolving the recent simultaneous failure of the ESC Off and cruise control. Suggestions?
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
I'd start with making sure all your wheels/tires are the correct sizes. That could thrown off the sensors.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
wrong tire size
CC Amplifier
Brake pedal switch (you should have the ABS, ESP, and BAS lights on if this is the problem)
Speed sensor
Worn stalk not making contact
Bad relay on CC module
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From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 19
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From: Wilmington, DE
1999 C43
I'd b quick to blame the previous "tech" except that it'd been working fine -- along with the ESC switch/system, which failed at the same time.
To come fully clean, I'm not sure if the two simultaneous failures came after diagnosing the horn, which entailed removing front bumper cover... or after I ripped a mean smokey burnout to impress my 8 year old boy who's bummed that I sold my S6 avant... both occurred within several hours of one another.
And oddly, the ESC disable works (orange triangle illuminates) if I press the button within a second of starting the engine. But once activated, the switch stops working; won't re-deactivate.
Speed sensors on all or some wheels?
To come fully clean, I'm not sure if the two simultaneous failures came after diagnosing the horn, which entailed removing front bumper cover... or after I ripped a mean smokey burnout to impress my 8 year old boy who's bummed that I sold my S6 avant... both occurred within several hours of one another.
And oddly, the ESC disable works (orange triangle illuminates) if I press the button within a second of starting the engine. But once activated, the switch stops working; won't re-deactivate.
Speed sensors on all or some wheels?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,437
Likes: 43
From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
speed sensor replacement: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202...ement-diy.html
