Pagz

Lol I did wonder when you mentioned G

I ment if you jack the front up and pivot the wheels by hand, half lock is halfway to full lock , so half of the maximum turn angle.

Cheers

paste

This is worthless. My car is lowered is on Bilstein's with Vogtland's and I have entirely rebuilt the front suspension; new lemforder UCA, lemforder LCA, febi wheel hub assemblies with bearings, uro drag link, febi ball joints, corteco idler bushing; brand new sumitomo tires with balance and alignment, many new parts on rear as well.

PJmak

How about rear suspension and subbframe bushings? Not all wobble/vibration comes from the front.

paste

I have replaced all the links except the one that goes across the top for which there was already an adjustable camber arm installed when I bought the car. The shock/spring combination is the same, with shocks having been replaced relatively recently. I have not replaced subframe bushings though.

Goldecho

Just before I bought my '96 C36 the original owner had the steering gear rebuilt. I'm not sure if the symptoms matched yours but it's just something to give consideration to.

paste

My car has almost 200,000 miles so it probably needs the rear subframe bushings replaced, the rear end still squeaks as well so I suspect that could be the culprit since I already replaced several other parts. However, I haven't been able to find the tool for removing/installing the bushings so I will likely have to take it somewhere for this job instead of doing it myself. The steering wheel doesn't seem to have much slop, especially after replacing what appeared to be the original idler arm bushing which was in poor shape after removing it so rebuilding the steering box would be the last thing that I would address. *edit - I took my front wheel to a guy who discovered it was bent. Hopefully after he straightens it, the shaking will subside enough to where I am happy.