New C43 owner!
07-15-2013, 11:33 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
New C43 owner!
Well, it took about a month and a half to find one that I wanted (stock, un-molested/modified, etc). Granted, it's not as clean as the prev. owner made it out to be (waaay more scratches/scuffs than it sounded like, wheels are all curbed/clear coat chipping/peeling off) and there's an oil leak(s) as well as some suspension shenanigans going on.
But, I'm the 3rd owner of a '99 C43, just over 93K with the drive home from SF, black/black, bone stock.
So, aside from searching and researching (I've done a lot of that the past month), here's what the car looks like it needs initially. I figured I'd post the job, what I've read/learned or haven't, and hope that you great forum members will help fill in any blanks.
Here we go:
# 60+mph steering wheel/wheel wobble/shimmy.
-I've read that this is likely the rear lower control arm bushings, which I'd like to replace with the LPD poly. Is there any need to change out the solid fronts? How hard of a job is this to do myself, and is there anyone local to Portland that has the tools/time to help?
--I'm thinking of also doing the tie rod ends/ball joints while in there, I want to cover all the bases the first time around. Any of this difficult to do, or should I take it to a shop?
---Rear bushings/components: how long do they usually last, hard to replace?
# Oil leaks: had it inspected (though looking back now, he did a really sh***y job, grumble) and noticed some decent oil drips on the pan underneath. He thought it was likely the left valve cover gasket, and I've read that it's fairly easy to do. Yes? Also figured I'd replace all the other oil seals that seem to wear out, and from what I've read, those would be: oil cooler housing gasket, filter housing to block gasket. Anything else I should look at replacing?
# Interior floor carpet: short of getting one out of a wrecked car, or the $tealer, anyone know of a good place to get a new floor carpet from? Prev. owner apparently left a flashlight under the floormat and it wore/ate through the top layer black carpet all the way down to the fiberglass backing. I'm thinking he had a battery go bad and it ate everything, I need to check it for corrosion as well.
# Flex discs: rear has a small crack, these look pretty straightforward, anything I should know first?
# Transmission: prev. owner had a CEL come on, took it in, involved the transmission. He had it fully serviced, new filter/elec connection/full flush, but I've experienced a couple really hard shifts since driving it. If I had to guess, I'd say a hard 2-3 shift, and maybe even a hard 4-3 downshift, or possibly 3-2 down shift. Almost a clunk-like downshift. Should I be more concerned than I already am?
# Thermostat/water pump: after the drive home, the car seems to be running hotter than it did in SF (it's about 10-20 deg warmer here, could explain it). I'm wondering if the aux coolant pump is dead, but otherwise, how hard a job to do the wp and thermostat? How long do they usually last?
--Side question, for those who live in warmer climates (it's been in the 80's here in Portland), where is your temp gauge usually at? In SF it hovered right in the middle (80c), but so far in Portland it's been 90-95c. Normal? I'm planning a full coolant flush anyways, but wanted to see how hard the wp/therm is while that's being done.
# Leaking rear diff: this seems to be common, PITA to re-seal? How often should the diff fluid be changed?
That's the majority of the wear/tear stuff on the get-go (ok, so that covers just about everything, ha). I'll continue to do research, but any additional tips/information would be great.
Anyone in the Portland, OR area that has a garage or just the know-how (I can get a garage/tools) and wants to help, let me know!
Jason
But, I'm the 3rd owner of a '99 C43, just over 93K with the drive home from SF, black/black, bone stock.
So, aside from searching and researching (I've done a lot of that the past month), here's what the car looks like it needs initially. I figured I'd post the job, what I've read/learned or haven't, and hope that you great forum members will help fill in any blanks.
Here we go:
# 60+mph steering wheel/wheel wobble/shimmy.
-I've read that this is likely the rear lower control arm bushings, which I'd like to replace with the LPD poly. Is there any need to change out the solid fronts? How hard of a job is this to do myself, and is there anyone local to Portland that has the tools/time to help?
--I'm thinking of also doing the tie rod ends/ball joints while in there, I want to cover all the bases the first time around. Any of this difficult to do, or should I take it to a shop?
---Rear bushings/components: how long do they usually last, hard to replace?
# Oil leaks: had it inspected (though looking back now, he did a really sh***y job, grumble) and noticed some decent oil drips on the pan underneath. He thought it was likely the left valve cover gasket, and I've read that it's fairly easy to do. Yes? Also figured I'd replace all the other oil seals that seem to wear out, and from what I've read, those would be: oil cooler housing gasket, filter housing to block gasket. Anything else I should look at replacing?
# Interior floor carpet: short of getting one out of a wrecked car, or the $tealer, anyone know of a good place to get a new floor carpet from? Prev. owner apparently left a flashlight under the floormat and it wore/ate through the top layer black carpet all the way down to the fiberglass backing. I'm thinking he had a battery go bad and it ate everything, I need to check it for corrosion as well.
# Flex discs: rear has a small crack, these look pretty straightforward, anything I should know first?
# Transmission: prev. owner had a CEL come on, took it in, involved the transmission. He had it fully serviced, new filter/elec connection/full flush, but I've experienced a couple really hard shifts since driving it. If I had to guess, I'd say a hard 2-3 shift, and maybe even a hard 4-3 downshift, or possibly 3-2 down shift. Almost a clunk-like downshift. Should I be more concerned than I already am?
# Thermostat/water pump: after the drive home, the car seems to be running hotter than it did in SF (it's about 10-20 deg warmer here, could explain it). I'm wondering if the aux coolant pump is dead, but otherwise, how hard a job to do the wp and thermostat? How long do they usually last?
--Side question, for those who live in warmer climates (it's been in the 80's here in Portland), where is your temp gauge usually at? In SF it hovered right in the middle (80c), but so far in Portland it's been 90-95c. Normal? I'm planning a full coolant flush anyways, but wanted to see how hard the wp/therm is while that's being done.
# Leaking rear diff: this seems to be common, PITA to re-seal? How often should the diff fluid be changed?
That's the majority of the wear/tear stuff on the get-go (ok, so that covers just about everything, ha). I'll continue to do research, but any additional tips/information would be great.
Anyone in the Portland, OR area that has a garage or just the know-how (I can get a garage/tools) and wants to help, let me know!
Jason
07-15-2013, 12:56 PM
#4
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1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Congrats! Hope you enjoy it for a long time.
Well, it took about a month and a half to find one that I wanted (stock, un-molested/modified, etc). Granted, it's not as clean as the prev. owner made it out to be (waaay more scratches/scuffs than it sounded like, wheels are all curbed/clear coat chipping/peeling off) and there's an oil leak(s) as well as some suspension shenanigans going on.
But, I'm the 3rd owner of a '99 C43, just over 93K with the drive home from SF, black/black, bone stock.
So, aside from searching and researching (I've done a lot of that the past month), here's what the car looks like it needs initially. I figured I'd post the job, what I've read/learned or haven't, and hope that you great forum members will help fill in any blanks.
Here we go:
# 60+mph steering wheel/wheel wobble/shimmy.
-I've read that this is likely the rear lower control arm bushings, which I'd like to replace with the LPD poly. Is there any need to change out the solid fronts? How hard of a job is this to do myself, and is there anyone local to Portland that has the tools/time to help?
--I'm thinking of also doing the tie rod ends/ball joints while in there, I want to cover all the bases the first time around. Any of this difficult to do, or should I take it to a shop?
---Rear bushings/components: how long do they usually last, hard to replace?
# Oil leaks: had it inspected (though looking back now, he did a really sh***y job, grumble) and noticed some decent oil drips on the pan underneath. He thought it was likely the left valve cover gasket, and I've read that it's fairly easy to do. Yes? Also figured I'd replace all the other oil seals that seem to wear out, and from what I've read, those would be: oil cooler housing gasket, filter housing to block gasket. Anything else I should look at replacing?
Check out doing the oil pressure test port seal. Pretty simple once the oil filter housing is all out of the way, and be sure to do all the seals (3?) on the filter housing.
# Interior floor carpet: short of getting one out of a wrecked car, or the $tealer, anyone know of a good place to get a new floor carpet from? Prev. owner apparently left a flashlight under the floormat and it wore/ate through the top layer black carpet all the way down to the fiberglass backing. I'm thinking he had a battery go bad and it ate everything, I need to check it for corrosion as well.
Are you talking floor mats or the actual carpet??
# Flex discs: rear has a small crack, these look pretty straightforward, anything I should know first?
# Transmission: prev. owner had a CEL come on, took it in, involved the transmission. He had it fully serviced, new filter/elec connection/full flush, but I've experienced a couple really hard shifts since driving it. If I had to guess, I'd say a hard 2-3 shift, and maybe even a hard 4-3 downshift, or possibly 3-2 down shift. Almost a clunk-like downshift. Should I be more concerned than I already am?
Has trans been replaced already?
# Thermostat/water pump: after the drive home, the car seems to be running hotter than it did in SF (it's about 10-20 deg warmer here, could explain it). I'm wondering if the aux coolant pump is dead, but otherwise, how hard a job to do the wp and thermostat? How long do they usually last?
--Side question, for those who live in warmer climates (it's been in the 80's here in Portland), where is your temp gauge usually at? In SF it hovered right in the middle (80c), but so far in Portland it's been 90-95c. Normal? I'm planning a full coolant flush anyways, but wanted to see how hard the wp/therm is while that's being done.
# Leaking rear diff: this seems to be common, PITA to re-seal? How often should the diff fluid be changed?
That's the majority of the wear/tear stuff on the get-go (ok, so that covers just about everything, ha). I'll continue to do research, but any additional tips/information would be great.
Anyone in the Portland, OR area that has a garage or just the know-how (I can get a garage/tools) and wants to help, let me know!
Jason
But, I'm the 3rd owner of a '99 C43, just over 93K with the drive home from SF, black/black, bone stock.
So, aside from searching and researching (I've done a lot of that the past month), here's what the car looks like it needs initially. I figured I'd post the job, what I've read/learned or haven't, and hope that you great forum members will help fill in any blanks.
Here we go:
# 60+mph steering wheel/wheel wobble/shimmy.
-I've read that this is likely the rear lower control arm bushings, which I'd like to replace with the LPD poly. Is there any need to change out the solid fronts? How hard of a job is this to do myself, and is there anyone local to Portland that has the tools/time to help?
--I'm thinking of also doing the tie rod ends/ball joints while in there, I want to cover all the bases the first time around. Any of this difficult to do, or should I take it to a shop?
---Rear bushings/components: how long do they usually last, hard to replace?
# Oil leaks: had it inspected (though looking back now, he did a really sh***y job, grumble) and noticed some decent oil drips on the pan underneath. He thought it was likely the left valve cover gasket, and I've read that it's fairly easy to do. Yes? Also figured I'd replace all the other oil seals that seem to wear out, and from what I've read, those would be: oil cooler housing gasket, filter housing to block gasket. Anything else I should look at replacing?
Check out doing the oil pressure test port seal. Pretty simple once the oil filter housing is all out of the way, and be sure to do all the seals (3?) on the filter housing.
# Interior floor carpet: short of getting one out of a wrecked car, or the $tealer, anyone know of a good place to get a new floor carpet from? Prev. owner apparently left a flashlight under the floormat and it wore/ate through the top layer black carpet all the way down to the fiberglass backing. I'm thinking he had a battery go bad and it ate everything, I need to check it for corrosion as well.
Are you talking floor mats or the actual carpet??
# Flex discs: rear has a small crack, these look pretty straightforward, anything I should know first?
# Transmission: prev. owner had a CEL come on, took it in, involved the transmission. He had it fully serviced, new filter/elec connection/full flush, but I've experienced a couple really hard shifts since driving it. If I had to guess, I'd say a hard 2-3 shift, and maybe even a hard 4-3 downshift, or possibly 3-2 down shift. Almost a clunk-like downshift. Should I be more concerned than I already am?
Has trans been replaced already?
# Thermostat/water pump: after the drive home, the car seems to be running hotter than it did in SF (it's about 10-20 deg warmer here, could explain it). I'm wondering if the aux coolant pump is dead, but otherwise, how hard a job to do the wp and thermostat? How long do they usually last?
--Side question, for those who live in warmer climates (it's been in the 80's here in Portland), where is your temp gauge usually at? In SF it hovered right in the middle (80c), but so far in Portland it's been 90-95c. Normal? I'm planning a full coolant flush anyways, but wanted to see how hard the wp/therm is while that's being done.
# Leaking rear diff: this seems to be common, PITA to re-seal? How often should the diff fluid be changed?
That's the majority of the wear/tear stuff on the get-go (ok, so that covers just about everything, ha). I'll continue to do research, but any additional tips/information would be great.
Anyone in the Portland, OR area that has a garage or just the know-how (I can get a garage/tools) and wants to help, let me know!
Jason
07-15-2013, 04:27 PM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Congrats! Hope you enjoy it for a long time.
# Oil leaks: had it inspected (though looking back now, he did a really sh***y job, grumble) and noticed some decent oil drips on the pan underneath. He thought it was likely the left valve cover gasket, and I've read that it's fairly easy to do. Yes? Also figured I'd replace all the other oil seals that seem to wear out, and from what I've read, those would be: oil cooler housing gasket, filter housing to block gasket. Anything else I should look at replacing?
Check out doing the oil pressure test port seal. Pretty simple once the oil filter housing is all out of the way, and be sure to do all the seals (3?) on the filter housing.
# Interior floor carpet: short of getting one out of a wrecked car, or the $tealer, anyone know of a good place to get a new floor carpet from? Prev. owner apparently left a flashlight under the floormat and it wore/ate through the top layer black carpet all the way down to the fiberglass backing. I'm thinking he had a battery go bad and it ate everything, I need to check it for corrosion as well.
Are you talking floor mats or the actual carpet??
# Flex discs: rear has a small crack, these look pretty straightforward, anything I should know first?
# Transmission: prev. owner had a CEL come on, took it in, involved the transmission. He had it fully serviced, new filter/elec connection/full flush, but I've experienced a couple really hard shifts since driving it. If I had to guess, I'd say a hard 2-3 shift, and maybe even a hard 4-3 downshift, or possibly 3-2 down shift. Almost a clunk-like downshift. Should I be more concerned than I already am?
Has trans been replaced already?
# Oil leaks: had it inspected (though looking back now, he did a really sh***y job, grumble) and noticed some decent oil drips on the pan underneath. He thought it was likely the left valve cover gasket, and I've read that it's fairly easy to do. Yes? Also figured I'd replace all the other oil seals that seem to wear out, and from what I've read, those would be: oil cooler housing gasket, filter housing to block gasket. Anything else I should look at replacing?
Check out doing the oil pressure test port seal. Pretty simple once the oil filter housing is all out of the way, and be sure to do all the seals (3?) on the filter housing.
# Interior floor carpet: short of getting one out of a wrecked car, or the $tealer, anyone know of a good place to get a new floor carpet from? Prev. owner apparently left a flashlight under the floormat and it wore/ate through the top layer black carpet all the way down to the fiberglass backing. I'm thinking he had a battery go bad and it ate everything, I need to check it for corrosion as well.
Are you talking floor mats or the actual carpet??
# Flex discs: rear has a small crack, these look pretty straightforward, anything I should know first?
# Transmission: prev. owner had a CEL come on, took it in, involved the transmission. He had it fully serviced, new filter/elec connection/full flush, but I've experienced a couple really hard shifts since driving it. If I had to guess, I'd say a hard 2-3 shift, and maybe even a hard 4-3 downshift, or possibly 3-2 down shift. Almost a clunk-like downshift. Should I be more concerned than I already am?
Has trans been replaced already?
Thanks for the mention of the oil pressure test port seal, are these easy to find outside of the dealer? I see some on sites like pelican, but hard to know which ones I need exactly.
The actual carpet is worn through to the fiberglass backing, aside from the mats being fully worn out as well.
The trans was not replaced, only serviced. I'm concerned that the CEL was something serious that a filter/flush may not have fixed.
07-15-2013, 05:04 PM
#6
this is the new style vs old style oel port gasket on first 2 pics.
old style is just a hollow rectangular gasket.
oel port covers new vs old. in pic 3 and 4.
if you have an early 99 car, you have the old style gasket and oel port cover
if you decide to do some fun to your car, this is what it looks like on last interior picture
old style is just a hollow rectangular gasket.
oel port covers new vs old. in pic 3 and 4.
if you have an early 99 car, you have the old style gasket and oel port cover
if you decide to do some fun to your car, this is what it looks like on last interior picture
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 07-18-2013 at 06:05 AM.
07-15-2013, 05:12 PM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Oh wow, I haven't seen that listed anywhere on PelicanParts or anything, do you by chance have an OEM part number for it? Dig the gauge setup you have too, is that oil pressure/temp and batt voltage?
Trending Topics
07-15-2013, 05:40 PM
#8
looks pritty neat
check autohausaz link
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...Cover%20Gasket
new style cover
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...Timing%20Cover
07-15-2013, 06:23 PM
#9
Member
Thread Starter
There it is, any indication which engines have the new vs old cover? Can you tell visually by just looking at the cover, or you have to take it off?
07-15-2013, 06:34 PM
#10
if you check gasket link.
there's an engine serial number described for each gasket.
only dealership can tell you correct info.
like i said early 98 -99 c43 uses the hollow gasket
last picture custom fitted vdo oel pressure sender
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 07-18-2013 at 06:05 AM.
07-15-2013, 07:42 PM
#11
Member
Thread Starter
timing cover link is the new updated version, for this new nonhollow gasket is used.
if you check gasket link.
there's an engine serial number described for each gasket.
only dealership can tell you correct info.
like i said early 98 -99 c43 uses the hollow gasket
last picture custom fitted vdo oel pressure sender
if you check gasket link.
there's an engine serial number described for each gasket.
only dealership can tell you correct info.
like i said early 98 -99 c43 uses the hollow gasket
last picture custom fitted vdo oel pressure sender
07-16-2013, 06:25 AM
#13
I have the LPD bushings at home never used them as I bought complete new Lemförder lower control arms.
07-16-2013, 06:28 AM
#14
it's tight down there, like doing a virgin first time
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 07-18-2013 at 06:04 AM.
07-16-2013, 10:11 AM
#15
Member
Thread Starter
Need to act fast though.
07-16-2013, 10:30 AM
#16
07-19-2013, 02:27 AM
#19
Senior Member
Congrats man. I have mine since February and I am happy as well too. I did a major engine service when I got mine. I did the following:
Replaced Valve cover gaskets left and right
Replaced 16 Spark plugs
Replaced Coils x8
Replaced Intake filters x2
Replaced Dust Filter
Replaced Oil + Service
Coolant Flush
Replaced Crank Sensor
Replaced Cam sensor
Replaced Engine Temp sensor
Replaced Oil lever sensor
Replaced 02 Sensors x4
Replaced MAF
Anyway my temp needle is always between 80 and 90. It's normal with hot temps. Colder temps cools the engine faster. But when you use the A/C, you're using the A/C Compressor in the engine so that also heats up the car hotter too as well. As far as your Water pump, 100k is about right with the thermostat and. get them oem rebuilt its better. FLEX discs is a must, even if it a small crack, might as well do both imo and not have the tranny got out on you and service the tranny. Steering wise, since its about to hit 100k, change the drag link if the suspension look worn out good (driven a lot i mean by the 2nd and 1st owners) the center joints in the center drag link 202-460-05-05 might be worn and if they are and leaking, then replace the drag link. If you do that's, also do replace the ball joints, steering damper, bushings and re torque or re adjust the gear box for any play after repairs and do alignment at dealer (i know its expensive but they have the right alignment equipment). So while you're under the car then you will have relieved a lot of more work for in the near future. I know for sure my car needs a re paint job but that's cosmetic to me, I can do that any time as I like the car but i rather have it running nice with a few little fades than haveing to have a shiny car and have to deal with stop and go repairs. My engine and trans and suspension is a safety must for me imo.
Have fun.!!!
Replaced Valve cover gaskets left and right
Replaced 16 Spark plugs
Replaced Coils x8
Replaced Intake filters x2
Replaced Dust Filter
Replaced Oil + Service
Coolant Flush
Replaced Crank Sensor
Replaced Cam sensor
Replaced Engine Temp sensor
Replaced Oil lever sensor
Replaced 02 Sensors x4
Replaced MAF
Anyway my temp needle is always between 80 and 90. It's normal with hot temps. Colder temps cools the engine faster. But when you use the A/C, you're using the A/C Compressor in the engine so that also heats up the car hotter too as well. As far as your Water pump, 100k is about right with the thermostat and. get them oem rebuilt its better. FLEX discs is a must, even if it a small crack, might as well do both imo and not have the tranny got out on you and service the tranny. Steering wise, since its about to hit 100k, change the drag link if the suspension look worn out good (driven a lot i mean by the 2nd and 1st owners) the center joints in the center drag link 202-460-05-05 might be worn and if they are and leaking, then replace the drag link. If you do that's, also do replace the ball joints, steering damper, bushings and re torque or re adjust the gear box for any play after repairs and do alignment at dealer (i know its expensive but they have the right alignment equipment). So while you're under the car then you will have relieved a lot of more work for in the near future. I know for sure my car needs a re paint job but that's cosmetic to me, I can do that any time as I like the car but i rather have it running nice with a few little fades than haveing to have a shiny car and have to deal with stop and go repairs. My engine and trans and suspension is a safety must for me imo.
Have fun.!!!
Last edited by Tony_AMG; 07-19-2013 at 02:40 AM.
07-19-2013, 10:05 AM
#20
Member
Thread Starter
Tony, thanks! You touched on a few items that I'd read about and forgot. I think I'll order a crank sensor, as I imagine it's easier to get to with the valve covers and plugs out of the way, but where are the cam/engine temp/oil level sensors located at? Still need to get my copy of the WIS/EPC as well. The MAF/O2 sensors I think are still good for now, I won't hit 100K for a while still.
You're saying to have the water pump rebuilt? Or just buy OEM? Flex discs are on order too, should get all of that next week. They confirmed my drag link is loose, but not bad enough yet to need replacement, but I may order one since I'll be doing suspension and everything and will need an alignment anyways. Doing all engine/trans mounts as well.
You're saying to have the water pump rebuilt? Or just buy OEM? Flex discs are on order too, should get all of that next week. They confirmed my drag link is loose, but not bad enough yet to need replacement, but I may order one since I'll be doing suspension and everything and will need an alignment anyways. Doing all engine/trans mounts as well.
07-22-2013, 11:57 AM
#22
Member
Thread Starter
That's the plan! Can anyone comment on the correct part numbers and engine bay location for the following parts:
Replaced Crank Sensor (back behind the driver side row of plugs, right?)
Replaced Cam sensor
Replaced Engine Temp sensor
Replaced Oil lever sensor
Replaced Crank Sensor (back behind the driver side row of plugs, right?)
Replaced Cam sensor
Replaced Engine Temp sensor
Replaced Oil lever sensor
07-22-2013, 04:56 PM
#23
Senior Member
000-905-07-00 Engine temp sensor x1
003-153-28-28 Crank shaft position sensor x1
003-153-86-28 Knock sensor ("lambada"??) x1
004-153-69-28 Cam shaft position sensor x1
006-153-27-28 Oil lever sensor x1
000-158-78-03 Ignition coil x8
004-159-19-03-26 Ignition spark plug x16
001-540-08-17 LT Front 02 Sensor
001-540-10-17 RT Front 02 Sensor
001-540-12-17 LT Rear 02 Sensor
001-540-11-17 RT Rear 02 Sensor
003-153-28-28 Crank shaft position sensor x1
003-153-86-28 Knock sensor ("lambada"??) x1
004-153-69-28 Cam shaft position sensor x1
006-153-27-28 Oil lever sensor x1
000-158-78-03 Ignition coil x8
004-159-19-03-26 Ignition spark plug x16
001-540-08-17 LT Front 02 Sensor
001-540-10-17 RT Front 02 Sensor
001-540-12-17 LT Rear 02 Sensor
001-540-11-17 RT Rear 02 Sensor
07-22-2013, 05:13 PM
#24
Member
Thread Starter
Oh wow, that's awesome, thanks Tony!!
Amazing that o2 sensors are cheaper for the benz than my MINI
Amazing that o2 sensors are cheaper for the benz than my MINI
Last edited by jgro1976; 07-22-2013 at 05:15 PM.
07-22-2013, 07:13 PM
#25
Senior Member
Your welcome and anytime. I just ordered the "Euro" / AMG lowered springs OEM with the #1 pads all around.I want to keep it OE as possible on "Silver-bullet" lol. I think my next mod will be buying a pair of ***** to the rear of the car so it can show its *****.
