As the title says here is a list of the parts ive replaced on my c43 since owned for a year now. i am a mercedes benz dealer tech and can help with any questions on help or as to why i replaced any of the following. my 99 c43 has 145k on it and runs amazingly strong. so i just thought id share.

-h&r lowering springs
-mercedes #1 5mm spring pad shim up front
-mercedes #2 8mm spring pad shim in rear
-all wheels re-done
-clear corners
-lower control arm bushings
-lower ball joints
-lower tie rod ends
-tightened wheel bearings
-left and right valve cover gaskets and vent chambers with new hoses
-rear main seal
-oil pressure test port seal
-camshaft sensor oring
-oil level sensor oring
-trans tail shaft seal
-trans electrical connector
-trans filter/pan gasket
-trans conductor plate
-trans shifter gear switch control unit
-trans shift linkage bushings
-left and right engine mounts
-trans mount
-crankshaft position sensor
-mass air flow sensor
-serpentine belt
-updated belt tensioner
-upper idler pulley
-timing chain
-timing chain tensioner
-comfort control relay
-fixed driver seat air blatter
-steering wheel re-done
-front pads and rotors(the c55 drilled ones)
-and probably leaving a few things out, feel free to ask any questions if needed

 

That's a pretty long list of parts changed. So as a MB tech you are on top of things to do and how to do them. I also imagine you know your C43 inside out

I have a couple of questions...
Why change the timing chain? Is this a standard practice after a certain time, or did it make a specific noise which prompted you to do it?
The serpentine belt and tensioner, is this a precautionary measure, or is it a regular service item? I know that if it breaks you no longer have a water pump, electrics, power steering, AC, etc.

Thanks
Daniel

PS My 43 is a 99' MY and has 245k kms and still goes strong, even if I don't thrash it often. She's a very mature woman, so needs some care and a gentle touch

 

I would also like to know about the timing chain.

Also, I'm chasing downs suspension issues after a recent crash. I'd like to know if you've done anything to the rear? Ever have a warped hub, or carrier assembly? Etc?

 

Yea i know it pretty well. i did the belt and tensioner as maintainence but also wanted the newer updated tensioner for security. i have too many times seen the older style with the torx lock up etc and cause alot of damage. and as for the timing chain is because of a rattling noise around the air pump area at idle and any other time but more noticeable at idle. and would get a little louder when the temp went up. i thought it was from various other components which were replaced and tested and the noise was still there. then that lead me to think that the timing chain had become slightly strectched. so i replaced both the chain and tensioner. and the noise went away and also my gas milage went up. i can get around 25ish mpg on the highway running 70-80mph.

 

the only thing i have done to the rear is the rear springs. i have no bend components on the rear nor have i experienced any as of yet...thankfully

 

how do you know when rear main seal is going bad and leaking?
does it leak oil on the ground?

when engine has starting problems, i heard about ring gear between engine and transmission needs lubricating, how do I notice this problem?
does this mean transmission has to be removed?

thanks

 

what was the total cost involved for just the mechanical components you did?

 

[QUOTE=kowalski;5769256]how do you know when rear main seal is going bad and leaking?
does it leak oil on the ground?

when engine has starting problems, i heard about ring gear between engine and transmission needs lubricating, how do I notice this problem?
does this mean transmission has to be removed?

thanks[/QUOTE

Oil on the ground would be a good indicator. the smell of burning oil, as the left exhaust pipe wraps right under the transmission access plug and itll leak there. also you can look underneath an if theres oil between the engine and transmission mating surfaces then its probably the rear main. common problem.

 

im not sure the total cost of parts, probably just shy or around $1000.00 usd. ive got alot of stuff for free...a few perks to working at the dealer. my car runs great with no issues at all. the only real issue with the whole car period is the chips on the front bumper, definitely needs to be resprayed.

 

Oh boy now I have a reason to post my list.

Here are OEM mechanical part replacements and services performed (I have tons of aftermarket suspension/brake stuff done not on this list).

Replaced:
-Mass air flow sensor (previous owner; no documentation with mileage)
-Head gasket (previous owner; no documentation with mileage)
-Water pump (@139,800 miles)
-Thermostat (@139,800 miles)
-Radiator and fan shroud (@139,800 miles)
-Accessory belt tensioner (@139,800 miles)
-Idler pulley (@139,800 miles)
-Serpentine belt (@139,800 miles)
-Fuel filter (@180,064 miles)
-Motor mounts (@180,064 miles)
-Stabilizer bar bushings (front & rear) (previous owner; no documentation with mileage)
-Rear stabilizer links (rear) (previous owner; no documentation with mileage)
-Front control arm bushings (@172,054 miles)
-Lower ball joints (@187,537 miles)
-Upper control arm w/upper ball joint (passenger-side) (@188,365 miles)
-Idler arm bushing (@172,054 miles)
-Shifter bushings (@186,256 miles)
-Transmission filter, gasket, fluid (@153,116 miles)
-Transmission plug adapter (@153,116 miles)
-Transmission electrical connector and seal (@167,800 miles)
-Flex discs (front and rear) (@184,616 miles)
-K24 relay (@162,200 miles)

Maintenance:
-A/C R134a refrigerant recharge (@186,256 miles; 4/16/13)
-Four wheel alignment (@172,278 miles, @181,000 miles)
-Brake fluid flush (@179,933 miles)
-Power steering fluid flush (@184,137 miles)
-Cabin filter replacement (@184,330 miles)
-Air filter replacement (@184,727 miles)
-Oil change/oil filter replacement (@185,000 miles)

 

But the best part of all the repairs is the FREEEEEEEEEEE LABOR! because im sure it would of been thousands $ in labor costs.

 

Lemme post my list:

99 C43 266,000 miles, have replaced:

Water pump x1
O2 sensor x1
Air filter x2

Zing.

Needs:
Headliner
Electric seat relay
All 4 shocks
1 rear hub
1 rear lower control arm
Valve cover gaskets

After the crash, needs:
REAL C43 BUMPER
Complete suspension setup in front left

 

This is good info. Here's my 99 C43,94500km's.

parts I replaced since purchase 8 months ago:

Water Pump - Bearing noisy.
Harmonic balancer - was the recall one and the rubber had cracks with slight wobble.
Tensioner - bearing noisey, but tensioner seemed ok, replaced with updated unit.
All rubber hoses on crank case breather system - had gone hard
Rubber seals bottom of MAS and inlet to throttle body - had gone hard and did not seal well.
Cam cover gaskets and new MB sealant around oil seperator housing.
shifter bushes - completely missing and wearing into the linkage.
cabin filter - super dirty.
wing mirror glass - auto dimming drivers side failed and wrecked the part down the door,now run standard blue glass both side.
New M113 MAS - Some monkey had installed the M112 version.
Crank sensor - failed and left me stranded.
Cam sensor - Just because it was cheap.
02 sensors - seemed to help with 1st-2nd gear changes?
Front wheels bearings - noisy,someone had replaced one with aftermarket and did a poor job,the other was OE,replaced both anyway and tightened to spec, silky smooth.
Right side caliper spring - was missing.
Spark plugs - clearly original and past there used-by.

Other important stuff :
Clean out front leaf gutter(especially the centre drain) - was entirely clogged.
Disassemble wiper mech and grease half moon and sliders. -you dont want to buy those new

Heaps of other little things done.

Still to do is diff rear plate re-sealing, re-seal lower sump and new rear crank seal(one day).

Currently have a ticking noise that is only noticable after 2800rpm and gets slightly louder as RPM increases all the way to redline. Starting to suspect timing chain and tensioner. doubt its any other internal stuff and doesn't sound like lifters.

 

i need to replace the pads and rotors on my car soon. do the c55 drilled ones just mount in place of the original parts? thanks.

 

Well, mine just shy of 245000km my short list is as follows:

• Dead CPS changed 1 week after purchase of the 43
• Carbon look Avantgarde grille
• Secondary cats and resonator delete pipe
• Green filters
• Modified intake box
• Valve cover gaskets and breather covers both sides
• Rubber breather tubes
• 16 Bosch sparkplugs
• Magnacor ignition wires
• KW Variant 2 suspension front and rear
• Ultimot OE drilled front rotors and OE rear rotors
• Yellowstuff brake pads front and rear
• Rust free wheel nuts and security bolts (one year on and looking new)
• MAF
• O2 sensor

And some other things I have forgotten (age..)

 

We should carry a spare CPS in the boot along with appropriate torx socket haha.

@DRB,Is there a reason you changed to magnacor's?

I've got a very slight rough idle, it annoys me as its not silky smooth,I had my injectors tested and ultra sonic'd recently which made a very significant improvement but I can still feel it. has anyone replaced ignition leads because of rough idle? I did test mine when I had them off and the resistances seemed good, but thats not a indication of insulation resistance.

 

No, but chose Magnecor as the OE looked original and very dry. I also have a slight miss at idle and need to look into that when I take the 43 off the road for winter