c43 - pls see my WTB in the classifieds area
Last edited by jmg1848; Jul 25, 2014 at 06:47 PM.
resurrected for fun...
"roughly 900 c36 came over to the us, 1995-1997, about 300 per year. 95-96 4 speed auto, 97 5 speed auto, all had hand-built 24-valve inline-6 putting out 268 hp, 280 lb-ft torque (97 had 276 hp). then came 98-00 c43 with a new 24-valve v-8 putting out 302 hp, 302 lb-ft torque. c36 comes with amg body kits, 17x7.5 front and 17x8.5 rear amg monoblock wheels, 225-45-17 front, 245-40-17 rear. the engines were hand-built, with modified rods, forged aluminum pistions in bigger sleeves to provide 10.5:1 compression ratio vs 10.0:1 for the normal c280. took s350 turbodiesel crankshaft and specially machined it and balanced it, putting out 3.6 liters instead of 2.8. enlarged cylinder-head ports, used sodium-filled exhaust valves, amg intake camshaft with greater lift, e320 intake manifold (larger-diameter and variable-length), low-pressure exhaust system, and basically the whole computer was reprogrammed. installed heavier-duty differential used in current e-class. additional oil-spray jets installed on engine block. four piston calipers and 12.6 inch front brake discs from sl600. 10.9 inch rear from e420. upgraded anti-roll bar stiffness, 35% front, 49% rear; shorter springs from euro-sport-spec (although if u put c280 and c36 side-by-side, c280 is actually lower). interesting AMG "degressive" gas shock absorbers. Schmevlar Kevlar (carbon fiber) used on B-pillars (door pillars) instead of plastic. interior had tasteful amg badges to remind u it's an amg. has two sets of fog-lights. one is a "street light" which uses the high-beam part of the assembly to shine down and spreading it down a few feet infront of car, lighting up the road (great for looking out for potholes). second is a more conventional one that projects quite far but is from the air dam and sits really low. don't know about c280, but i think c36 also came with euro-spec headlight assemblies instead of the normal fuzzy us dot-spec, because on the left side of the beam pattern, the cutoff is horizontal, and on the right half of the beam pattern, the cutoff rises to the right at a 15 degree angle."








Certainly the use of 100w bulbs helps. However, you need to check that the plugs to the bulbs and wires don't overheat. Normally if all the contacts are good, no problem. I used them on my old W124 for years and loved driving at night
Also if the head light alignment is good, the drivers coming opposite don't get any glare at all.




Certainly the use of 100w bulbs helps. However, you need to check that the plugs to the bulbs and wires don't overheat. Normally if all the contacts are good, no problem. I used them on my old W124 for years and loved driving at night
Also if the head light alignment is good, the drivers coming opposite don't get any glare at all.My 99 C43 has normal halogen lights, but they're the update w202 type and they are very obviously not as bright. The reflector, bulb placement, and lens are all very different, with the fogs mounted in the bottom instead of towards the center of the car. they work just fine, but still a huge difference compared to my good old C280
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Sorry to hijack your thread! But to answer your question I think the xenon are clearly sexier with their auto leveling function when you turn them on. But the brights are standard halogen so id recommend some silverstars to make the low beam and high beam colors mesh better
Same for the fogs.
But the stock halogens top to bottom on my 99 are totally fine. They mix perfectly and don't take $1200 to replace a broken headlight.
Last edited by Sulaco; Jul 29, 2014 at 12:02 PM. Reason: spelling




http://www.club202.com/forums/showth...310#post188310
I think 80k on the car, 60k on the E55 5.4l engine in it. He has multiple galleries of his mods being done and it was all done correctly. He's even done the comand 2.0 upgrade so that he has the DVD/nav and stuff from the E class.




RED FLAGS:
Transmission issues. If the carfax or records don't indicate major transmission service, rebuild, or replacement by now I'd want to see proof that it was at least maintained regularly (flush, filter). These cars shipped with what MB called "lifetime" fluid that allegedly meant never ever having to flush it or maintain it. This quickly proved to be dead wrong. MB has recanted the statement and had to do a LOT of warranty repairs on transmissions as a result.
Design flaw in the plastic conductor plate and the transmission controller connection line. Generally if a car won't shift up or shift down but appears to be pulling just fine in gear, it's probably one of these 2 issues and isn't a big deal nor an expensive fix. Grinding gears? Slipping? RUN AWAY. Repairs run from 2k to 6k. That being said, I wouldn't run away if the car is the right condition and price. MINT C43 with low(ish) for $4k but needs tranny rebuilt? I'd bite, depending on quote for tranny fix.
Don't take any of this to mean that these cars have bad transmissions. The transmission is actually extremely durable and very long lasting if somewhat maintained regularly. I have 2 cars with regularly maintained trannies and they're bullet proof. One with 200k, another with 275k.
Watch for sagging headliner in the states. Happens in a great many of them, but isn't very expensive to fix.
Vacuum leaks in the AC and door lock system. A door not locking/unlocking properly, AC vents blowing/not blowing like they should. If it's a blown vacuum belows under the dash, $$$$$ to get in there and replace a $12 part.
AC evaporator also in dash. If it or the expansion valve need replacing, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ (like $2k-3k)
Power seat relay in trunk is super cheap (maybe $20) but is prone to fail on many cars at this age. If the power seats aren't responding, 99% chance this relay has failed.
Floppy wiper blade. If it's not making a good press against the glass, be wary. Might be broken arm (cheap) or broken assembly (cheap to pricey, depends where you get your new one). Never heard of a motor failing. Sometimes it hesitates (especially when cold) but the linkage needs white lithium grease. Super cheap, easy fix.
Xenon headlights are crazy expensive to replace ($1200 each). Not a tough job. I've read it's essentially impossible to retrofit a non-xenon car with the factory xenon, ballast, vacuum leveling system, etc; due to the way it interacts with the rest of the cars system and sensors. It's actually a very sophisticated (complicated) set up.
Front bumpers are, at this point, essentially non existent. Good luck finding a real replacement. A member here allegedly bought the very last one in the US from MB recently.
I've read on various sites that w202's in general are rust magnets. I've read an alarming level of people claiming so. I've had 4 w202's in various ages and saw ZERO rust. I don't see it, but others say its a big problem. Examine underneath entire car.
Make sure harmonic balancer has been replaced. Factory recall.
Lower control arm bushings prone to fail, costly to replace. They are pressed in/out. Newer ones are much more durable (I think off the w203).
Vast majority of C43's are black, silver, and white. Anything else will be quite rare.
Tuxedo (black white) and designo (blue black) interiors are quite rare. I love tuxedo.
2000 model is rarest of the rare. Somewhere between 22-27 in the US. Updated wheels from SLK and new transmission with select shifting (no paddles).
1998 models will have older, outdated interior sound system wiring. 99 and up have the fibre optics which were apparently superior.
Crank position sensor is very common, but cheap failure. Car randomly dies or won't start. $50
Oil leaks. Engine is prone to leak at valve covers especially. All M113 engines. Prone to leak at oil pressure test port and oil cooler at front of engine. Again, cheap and easy fix.
PCB boards in tail lights tend to be loose and make bulbs seem to fail alot, only to magically start working again. You can pry up the metal plates to make them hold the bulb more securely, or replace them completely.
Thats all i've got for now...








Sulaco has made an excellent review. I agree with the rust thing, but if the vehicle has lived its life away from salty conditions, rust should not be a (major) problem.




A) super low mileage long term owner unmodified car (stock)
Vs
B) medium mileage medium term owner modified car (tune, brakes, wheels, exhaust, maybe more)
They both have the pros & cons and I am guessing they end up being about the same price.




A) super low mileage long term owner unmodified car (stock)
Vs
B) medium mileage medium term owner modified car (tune, brakes, wheels, exhaust, maybe more)
They both have the pros & cons and I am guessing they end up being about the same price.
If you're lucky you'll find one with a 5.4l swap, or a proper SC install (preferably kleemann, but I hear HPS is fine too).
And that's the difference in modified and unmodified. Still 99% stock. Maybe less than 10 cars total have had the full monte, exhaust, intake, 5.4l swap, and I only know of MAYBE 2 that have had the 5.4l swap AND a supercharger. One of those would likely hang pretty close with a C63 507 edition.
Speedybenz and his 5.4l with home made intake velocity stacks was able to pull on a standard C63. For me, that's a watershed moment of what MB could've done had they built the C43 correctly.
A) super low mileage long term owner unmodified car (stock)
Vs
B) medium mileage medium term owner modified car (tune, brakes, wheels, exhaust, maybe more)
They both have the pros & cons and I am guessing they end up being about the same price.





