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Also here are the pictures off ebay, I'll post some when it arrives next week but seller told me that engine is off a rear ended car. Looks legit plus seller has a ton of MBZ parts including a black w210/e55 hood and red and black w210/e55 seats, so probably parting out the whole car and sending body to the scrapper. Engine is shipping from Sacramento, CA. Wonder if it is from a member here? Anyway, it's a steal for $1,100 including shipping.
good luck with your project.
i don't remember what year was your donor engine?
is it one of the last MY E55?
Johhnie Walker Blue label, this is their best and most expensive whiskey, right?
The donor is 99. Yes, lower compression than the late MY but if I decide to go S/C, I can push more boost in a lower compression engine. That said, I am not 100% certain I will go S/C.
And while blue label is the most expensive, I am not sure it is the best...
Originally Posted by Sulaco
If that 5.4 isn't quite within the specs you need, maybe we can work something out
But I'm sure it will be just fine. 187k isn't that much on these. As aussie said, theyre tough as nails.
Oh Sulco, Sulco, Sulco... LOL. I'm sure the engine is in spec.. They question is what kind of wear am I dealing with? Hopefully little to none, but maybe some. There is a fellow who sleeved his m113 on here, I'd rather not... For me, it'd be better to be in spec with little wear. What oh what will I do with this engine? I don't know yet, but here is my goal. I want 500 to 550HP, closer to 500 would be fine. My research says I can get over 400 on the N/A, actually close to 420. I'm more than happy to start with that. I think that'd require new bearings, seals, gaskets, plugs, wires + headers, exhaust, AND ECU & TCU tunes (maybe porting/polishing and possibly a cam, but we might be looking at 490... again this is only from what I've read). I'm cognizant of cost versus value on this car/engine. Dollars must stop flowing at a certain point, I mean we might sometimes act like 12 year old boys after our blonde babysitters, but eventually we realize the squeeze isn't worth the juice.
$1,100 on the engine (cheap beans), very easy to spend another 5 to 10 on a build, but we've got to (or at least I have) figure out where the dollars will stop flowing...
And what is any of this worth without an LSD... Close to $3k right there...
I wouldn't say the rod bearings are a weak spot, they just show some signs of wear a little earlier than i would expect but once they have some wear the wear rate seems to slow. I wouldn't go out of my way to replace them but I would replace them given the opportunity of easy access by having the engine removed.
Some of the BMW M engines that overheat the bearings and either seize or break rods......that is a weak spot!
The rod bearings are a AMG only part, the common aftermarket brand "glyco" are for non AMG's.
can you tell me how many pcs of Conrod bearings are in the M113 engine?
just need to find the partsnumber for this part.
The eagle has landed! Alright guys so i'm going to begin the teardown this weekend. I've never worked on this engine so please kick up some advice! Am I going to need any special tools??
The plan is to rip it apart, get everything real clean then look at it closely.
The eagle has landed! Alright guys so i'm going to begin the teardown this weekend. I've never worked on this engine so please kick up some advice! Am I going to need any special tools?? The plan is to rip it apart, get everything real clean then look at it closely.
Awesome! Good luck! What do you plan on replacing first?
NO CLUE! I'm gonna do the rip down and I'm guessing my journey is going to be somewhat similar to benzslo's rebuild which he summed up as: "New piston rings, rod bearings, valve job, new chains and guides, oil pump, everything resealed, plugs, all OEM parts". I want to get it real clean and new looking. Hoping I can get parts for around $1500 and maybe dump a little more into it, polishing, porting, cams, headers...
Truth is that this is my first build and I'm not looking to go crazy, but I want to get it right. I'd be happy with 400 (no s/c), but 550 would be awesome so I sort of want to build up to it, but am not positive the squeeze is worth the juice. I'm not in a rush at this point and am hoping to have this done by summer sometime. I have a few other things on my radar, like I want to buy a house (nothing crazy less than $200k-NJ) and I want to buy a wrangler (cheap $7k) and a 964 (no so cheap $30K).
Awesome, well, I will definitely be following this. I'm constantly going back and forth debating if this one will get a 5.4, purchasing another 210 E55, or getting blown with a 211 E55.
I feel like I'm yodeling off a Swiss alp on this thread!!
What am I going to need to tear this b**** down? Ratchets with sockets, extensions, swivel attachment, breaker bar, rubber hammer, harmonic balance puller? What else?
Quick tips or something you can recommend from experience that makes it easier to disassemble or reassemble?
What are you guys using to mark the pistons etc, stampers or? Seriously looking for some help on this, I know it can be done in 60 minutes by someone who does it all the time and I'm expecting it to take me maybe 10 hours since I don't and am going to have to document the whole process to get it back in one piece.
Disassembly isn't very hard and you don't need any special tools. I suggest you have quite a few containers with lids for bolts, separate containers for each section of the engine (manifolds, heads, sump, timing cover, accessories, etc)
These are the major steps for a complete strip down.
1) loosen crank pulley bolt, don't remove for now
2) remove all accessories (power steering, alternator etc)
3) remove wiring harness
4) remove intake and exhaust manifolds (remove intake manifold with all accessories eg fuel injectors, throttle body)
5) remove ignition coils and rocker covers
6) turn engine to 40deg after TDC (marked on crank pulley)
7) remove chain tensioner
8) remove cam pulleys
9) remove rocker arms and camshafts
10) remove cylinder heads (there are 2 smaller head bolts near the timing chain, these MUST be removed before main head bolts)
11) remove sump and oil pump
12) remove crank pulley and timing cover
13) remove flex plate and rear main oil seal housing
14) remove each rod and piston, rods should already be numbered, if not mark them
15) remove crank bearings and crank shaft.
These are the major steps, this should be a good guide to get you going. Have fun!
Disassembly isn't very hard and you don't need any special tools. I suggest you have quite a few containers with lids for bolts, separate containers for each section of the engine (manifolds, heads, sump, timing cover, accessories, etc)
These are the major steps for a complete strip down.
1) loosen crank pulley bolt, don't remove for now
2) remove all accessories (power steering, alternator etc)
3) remove wiring harness
4) remove intake and exhaust manifolds (remove intake manifold with all accessories eg fuel injectors, throttle body)
5) remove ignition coils and rocker covers
6) turn engine to 40deg after TDC (marked on crank pulley)
7) remove chain tensioner
8) remove cam pulleys
9) remove rocker arms and camshafts
10) remove cylinder heads (there are 2 smaller head bolts near the timing chain, these MUST be removed before main head bolts)
11) remove sump and oil pump
12) remove crank pulley and timing cover
13) remove flex plate and rear main oil seal housing
14) remove each rod and piston, rods should already be numbered, if not mark them
15) remove crank bearings and crank shaft.
These are the major steps, this should be a good guide to get you going. Have fun!
Good input, that definitely will help a loooooooooot..
98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
I assume that you already have a reverse torx (or star) socket set if you've done any work on the Mercedes at all. You will need those. Other than that, your typical tools should be fine. Mercedes loves their silicone sealant, so have plenty of razor blades around.
Thanks guys, this is so helpful! I started today and I'm having a ton of fun. I also ordered the WIS DVD so I should only need minimal help putting her back together. I stripped off a few small pieces today, found oil in the plugs and exhaust manifold so a rebuild is in good order. Will post pics towards the end. Thanks again Ausmbtech!
C43/55,2k11 Volvo S60 T6AWD,2k Audi B5 S4,95 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD 500+awhp
Originally Posted by mickey13
Thanks guys, this is so helpful! I started today and I'm having a ton of fun. I also ordered the WIS DVD so I should only need minimal help putting her back together. I stripped off a few small pieces today, found oil in the plugs and exhaust manifold so a rebuild is in good o LPPrder. Will post pics towards the end. Thanks again Ausmbtech!
member "blackbenz"(Ahmad) with the 9 second 1/4 mile kleeman s/c clk55 is also another good guy to talk to about the rebuilding and supercharging of the n/a 5.4l motor. He lives in Maryland.
PS make sure you change all seals involving the oil filter housing and oil cooler. Very important because those leak when the motor has over 100k miles.
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Originally Posted by ProjectC55
PS make sure you change all seals involving the oil filter housing and oil cooler. Very important because those leak when the motor has over 100k miles.
That's a very good recommendation specially when the engine is out (makes the job easier).
OK thankfully it's not my C43 but my trusty C240T workhorse which developed last week a nasty oil leak in the oil cooler region + valve covers (V6 M112 engine). It spayed oil all over the front of the engine which needed a good wash and then replacement of all the gaskets, poly drive belt and tensioner. The local MB dealer (very friendly and helpful) did the job as I didn't have the time nor tools to it due to my move and everything is packed.
the Conrod bearings, they are a weak part on M113980 engines?
to replace the conrod bearings you have to strip the engine upper part into molecules
i tried to look for conrod bearings, can't find these parts, maybe they go under a different parts name?
here is the link for engine parts from Pelican can you please show me the part?
i would like to know what this part looks like.
kowalski, found these conrod and head studs and bearing assembly from weistec, price is a little steep but well worth it. I've also heard that some of ARP products might match the same bolts so there's potential to save a few hundred but we don't want to be a penny wise and a pound foolish. So I don't know, here is the link: These are listed under m113k but also certain parts also state m113.
Many of the threads on this site are m113k builds but i think some of parts might be interchangeable. I've been reading a lot of threads using m113k block and pieces with mixed m113 parts, head & piston or aftermarket pistions.
Yes the bearing assembly is that u shaped band of metal, it has two sides so outside of the engine it would look like a band, ring or sleeve. There's a picture of it on the weistec page.
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