5.4 m113 rebuild
#1
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5.4 m113 rebuild
So I'm looking at 5.4's for a swap, but I want to rebuild it before I drop it in, maybe even attach a blower. There are a number of reputable machine shops in my area that do rebuilds (not sure they do MBZ, but they are respectable), anyway I wanted to supply parts so is there a rebuild kit or is this going to be an expensive part by part process?
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young wizzy (06-01-2019)
#2
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This thread may help you a little bit:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...5-rebuild.html
I have not seen any 'gasket kits' for the M113. Some Google-ing didn't turn up anything immediately either.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...5-rebuild.html
I have not seen any 'gasket kits' for the M113. Some Google-ing didn't turn up anything immediately either.
#3
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190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
There is no "rebuild kit", all parts are purchased separately. It's not a cheap process, unless the engine has an existing issue, high milage or you're looking to drive the car pretty hard I would suggest limiting the pre-installation repairs to a new timing chain, chain tensioner, new conrod bearings (can be done with pistons installed) and a rear main crank seal. It really depends on what you're looking to do with it and what condition the engine you're starting with is in.
#4
There is no "rebuild kit", all parts are purchased separately. It's not a cheap process, unless the engine has an existing issue, high milage or you're looking to drive the car pretty hard I would suggest limiting the pre-installation repairs to a new timing chain, chain tensioner, new conrod bearings (can be done with pistons installed) and a rear main crank seal. It really depends on what you're looking to do with it and what condition the engine you're starting with is in.
these bearings are they going bad on high mileage engines?
i found an 150000KM AMG engine which i might buy when i have the funds, however i don't like that the donor engine has 40000KM more mileage than my car mileage which is approx 110000KM
replacing rear main crank seal is it done when the engine is out of the car?
do you have a partsnumber for this seal?
#7
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1999 C43 AMG, 2005 E55 Wagon
M113 engines are "alusil" engines, I think. rebuild options become quite limited as far as the actual combustion chamber. iron-coated pistons are required (if you're replacing them).
pretty much, just measure clearances as usual. odds are they will all still be within new-engine specs. at that point, just replace the rings and conrod bearings, freshen up the top end (valves/lifters maybe) and put it back together!
pretty much, just measure clearances as usual. odds are they will all still be within new-engine specs. at that point, just replace the rings and conrod bearings, freshen up the top end (valves/lifters maybe) and put it back together!
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#8
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190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
what are conrod bearings, do you have a partsnumber for these?
these bearings are they going bad on high mileage engines?
i found an 150000KM AMG engine which i might buy when i have the funds, however i don't like that the donor engine has 40000KM more mileage than my car mileage which is approx 110000KM
replacing rear main crank seal is it done when the engine is out of the car?
do you have a partsnumber for this seal?
these bearings are they going bad on high mileage engines?
i found an 150000KM AMG engine which i might buy when i have the funds, however i don't like that the donor engine has 40000KM more mileage than my car mileage which is approx 110000KM
replacing rear main crank seal is it done when the engine is out of the car?
do you have a partsnumber for this seal?
Parts are available from pelican parts or your local dealer, use the engine number and NOT the VIN when ordering parts.
#9
I've pulled 4 55 engines apart in the last 10yrs ranging from as little as 20k kms to 200k kms, all 4 engines showed some form on conrod bearing wear but not crank bearing wear. interestingly the 200K engine didn't have much more wear than the 70k km engine. Nothing I would be alarmed about, just enough that you would replace them if you had the opportunity.
Parts are available from pelican parts or your local dealer, use the engine number and NOT the VIN when ordering parts.
Parts are available from pelican parts or your local dealer, use the engine number and NOT the VIN when ordering parts.
to replace the conrod bearings you have to strip the engine upper part into molecules
i tried to look for conrod bearings, can't find these parts, maybe they go under a different parts name?
here is the link for engine parts from Pelican can you please show me the part?
i would like to know what this part looks like.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...887-Engine.htm
if there is no link on Pelican parts please show me from Autohausaz engine section.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/gro...0%26%20Gaskets
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 12-02-2014 at 03:51 AM.
#10
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190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
I wouldn't say the rod bearings are a weak spot, they just show some signs of wear a little earlier than i would expect but once they have some wear the wear rate seems to slow. I wouldn't go out of my way to replace them but I would replace them given the opportunity of easy access by having the engine removed.
Some of the BMW M engines that overheat the bearings and either seize or break rods......that is a weak spot!
The rod bearings are a AMG only part, the common aftermarket brand "glyco" are for non AMG's.
Some of the BMW M engines that overheat the bearings and either seize or break rods......that is a weak spot!
The rod bearings are a AMG only part, the common aftermarket brand "glyco" are for non AMG's.
#11
I wouldn't say the rod bearings are a weak spot, they just show some signs of wear a little earlier than i would expect but once they have some wear the wear rate seems to slow. I wouldn't go out of my way to replace them but I would replace them given the opportunity of easy access by having the engine removed.
Some of the BMW M engines that overheat the bearings and either seize or break rods......that is a weak spot!
The rod bearings are a AMG only part, the common aftermarket brand "glyco" are for non AMG's.
Some of the BMW M engines that overheat the bearings and either seize or break rods......that is a weak spot!
The rod bearings are a AMG only part, the common aftermarket brand "glyco" are for non AMG's.
do you have a pic of these conrod bearings?
i need to know what they look like.
when i get my engine i might as well replace these bearings
#12
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There is no standard rebuild on these because they don't just fall apart. Use common sense and do things that you think it might need. check the rod and main bearings. clean out the ring lands, I also installed all new rings. Go through the head, clean valves, new valve seals, new gaskets, clean everything real good and re-assemble.
Only use MB parts. I'd rather have the old original mb parts in there than some cheap junk china replacement parts that are going to fail instantly.
Or just put a new rear main, reseal valve covers, and drop it in. doesn't sound like you're very serious about it.
Only use MB parts. I'd rather have the old original mb parts in there than some cheap junk china replacement parts that are going to fail instantly.
Or just put a new rear main, reseal valve covers, and drop it in. doesn't sound like you're very serious about it.
#13
There is no standard rebuild on these because they don't just fall apart. Use common sense and do things that you think it might need. check the rod and main bearings. clean out the ring lands, I also installed all new rings. Go through the head, clean valves, new valve seals, new gaskets, clean everything real good and re-assemble.
Only use MB parts. I'd rather have the old original mb parts in there than some cheap junk china replacement parts that are going to fail instantly.
Or just put a new rear main, reseal valve covers, and drop it in. doesn't sound like you're very serious about it.
Only use MB parts. I'd rather have the old original mb parts in there than some cheap junk china replacement parts that are going to fail instantly.
Or just put a new rear main, reseal valve covers, and drop it in. doesn't sound like you're very serious about it.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...t%20Oil%20Seal
i haven't bought an engine yet.
i'm looking to gather info first then will buy when the time is right for my wallet.
i know what i will have to replace which are the common wear n tear parts
these are easier to replace when the engine is out of the car.
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2001 CLK55 AMG
CONROD = Connecting Rod. Look fellas, with all due respect to wanting to go crazy here, these engines are bullet-proof for the most part, really, aside from some valve cover gaskets and the rear main seal, there is really no need to go through the engine too much, unless you know the donor engine has pre-existing issues. Keep servicing it, and it'll keep working well. Unless you are likely to keep the engine up in the 5-6k range for extended periods of time, you aren't likely to see issues. I've driven M113 5.4's with 160K MILES on them and they're fine, and they are ones that had seen tough lives. Timing chain and tensioner possibly, that's the farthest I'd go.
#16
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1999 C43 AMG, 2005 E55 Wagon
CONROD = Connecting Rod. Look fellas, with all due respect to wanting to go crazy here, these engines are bullet-proof for the most part, really, aside from some valve cover gaskets and the rear main seal, there is really no need to go through the engine too much, unless you know the donor engine has pre-existing issues. Keep servicing it, and it'll keep working well. Unless you are likely to keep the engine up in the 5-6k range for extended periods of time, you aren't likely to see issues. I've driven M113 5.4's with 160K MILES on them and they're fine, and they are ones that had seen tough lives. Timing chain and tensioner possibly, that's the farthest I'd go.
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#17
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"Scott Simoncic" I've driven M113 5.4's with 160K MILES on them and they're fine, and they are ones that had seen tough lives.
Last edited by eFifty5AMG; 12-05-2014 at 10:06 PM.
#18
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The engines are strong and reliable enough that if you're on a budget you can just drop one in untouched. I think the following about sums it up......
Limited budget: Just drop it in
Small budget: Front and rear crank seals, oil cooler seals, rocker cover gaskets and spark plugs.
Medium budget: Above plus rod bearings, timing chain and tensioner
Big budget: Full rebuild
Limited budget: Just drop it in
Small budget: Front and rear crank seals, oil cooler seals, rocker cover gaskets and spark plugs.
Medium budget: Above plus rod bearings, timing chain and tensioner
Big budget: Full rebuild
#20
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So I pulled the trigger on a 5.4 on ebay, seemed pretty cheap, only $1,100 including shipping from a 99 e55 with 187k.
Will post pictures when it gets here, but the plan is to strip it down, have the block cleaned and figure out where the specs are.
Will post pictures when it gets here, but the plan is to strip it down, have the block cleaned and figure out where the specs are.
#21
how much differs on mileage between your car and the new engine?
all of you guys, when you bought the 5.4L engine, did mileage differ a lot on cluster vs the 55 engine?
mileage won't be accurate on odometer
#22
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My engine has 140k, seals are shot to $#!+ though, so my 4.3 is consuming about a quart of oil every 1200 miles. I got into a huge fight with Mercedes Benz of Fort Washington in Pennsylvania over this, they refused to fix my engine even though it was under warranty, they are the biggest crooks ever. I made a big stink with Mercedes Benz Corporate and the dealer called offering to check it out, but keep in mind that I had already brought it in close to a dozen times over this issue and they treated me like a complete jerk every time, even to go so far as to just top it off. I think I'm capable of topping off my own engine, I brought it in because it's UNDER WARRANTY and consuming a QUART of oil every 1200 miles or less.
Well the plan with the new engine is to rebuild it and add a blower. I'll probably try to straighten out the new engine before adding the blower. I've been reading up intensely on this engine and hope that the block is in spec with no wear, but I'll have to decide what I'm going to do if it isn't or has excessive wear. Once I have an understanding of the block, I'll start thinking about building up, whether remaining in spec or otherwise.
Well the plan with the new engine is to rebuild it and add a blower. I'll probably try to straighten out the new engine before adding the blower. I've been reading up intensely on this engine and hope that the block is in spec with no wear, but I'll have to decide what I'm going to do if it isn't or has excessive wear. Once I have an understanding of the block, I'll start thinking about building up, whether remaining in spec or otherwise.
#23
My engine has 140k, seals are shot to $#!+ though, so my 4.3 is consuming about a quart of oil every 1200 miles. I got into a huge fight with Mercedes Benz of Fort Washington in Pennsylvania over this, they refused to fix my engine even though it was under warranty, they are the biggest crooks ever. I made a big stink with Mercedes Benz Corporate and the dealer called offering to check it out, but keep in mind that I had already brought it in close to a dozen times over this issue and they treated me like a complete jerk every time, even to go so far as to just top it off. I think I'm capable of topping off my own engine, I brought it in because it's UNDER WARRANTY and consuming a QUART of oil every 1200 miles or less.
Well the plan with the new engine is to rebuild it and add a blower. I'll probably try to straighten out the new engine before adding the blower. I've been reading up intensely on this engine and hope that the block is in spec with no wear, but I'll have to decide what I'm going to do if it isn't or has excessive wear. Once I have an understanding of the block, I'll start thinking about building up, whether remaining in spec or otherwise.
Well the plan with the new engine is to rebuild it and add a blower. I'll probably try to straighten out the new engine before adding the blower. I've been reading up intensely on this engine and hope that the block is in spec with no wear, but I'll have to decide what I'm going to do if it isn't or has excessive wear. Once I have an understanding of the block, I'll start thinking about building up, whether remaining in spec or otherwise.
they can really be shi-ty to deal with sometimes!
you should have hired OJ's lawyer Johnny Cochran he would have helped you out with the sh-tty dealer
#24
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LOL. Thanks. Did you forget that I am a lawyer!?! I determined that suing them wasn't worth my time. I charge $400/hr and the amount of money we are talking about for an engine rebuild by an indy is $2000 or less. Figure my time drafting up the complaint papers, cost of filing the lawsuit, cost of service of the lawsuit, cost of the expert to prove my damages and cost of my time at the trial... Just not worth it and what is the ultimate outcome? A 4.3 engine with new seals, sure might be nice if this car was a collector's car but these cars and engines are cheap and readily available so while there is some inherent value in keeping the car original and in working order, I feel like there isn't enough value there worth my time.
On top of that, I've decided to make the conversion to 5.4 and possibly more. So while I am quite upset with Mercedes Benz of Fort Washington in Pennsylvania for failing to honor the agreement we made, e.g. I purchase a car for x dollars (btw the car was obscenely overpriced), for the value of a car and the value of a warranty, I've decided that when I buy my next Mercedes Benz (probably $150k+), which will have to wait until I buy my home, I will not purchase it from Fort Washington, but I will send them a very nasty letter with a copy to Mercedes Benz Corporate with a copy of the invoice of the new car explaining why I went to another dealership.
Before I buy another Benz though, I am very interested in Porsche! LOL
Edit: Also I am keeping my 4.3, so it'll be around with matching numbers if by some sort of miracle the value on these cars skyrockets, but I am definitely not holding my breath.
On top of that, I've decided to make the conversion to 5.4 and possibly more. So while I am quite upset with Mercedes Benz of Fort Washington in Pennsylvania for failing to honor the agreement we made, e.g. I purchase a car for x dollars (btw the car was obscenely overpriced), for the value of a car and the value of a warranty, I've decided that when I buy my next Mercedes Benz (probably $150k+), which will have to wait until I buy my home, I will not purchase it from Fort Washington, but I will send them a very nasty letter with a copy to Mercedes Benz Corporate with a copy of the invoice of the new car explaining why I went to another dealership.
Before I buy another Benz though, I am very interested in Porsche! LOL
Edit: Also I am keeping my 4.3, so it'll be around with matching numbers if by some sort of miracle the value on these cars skyrockets, but I am definitely not holding my breath.
Last edited by mickey13; 12-06-2014 at 02:49 PM.
#25
no, i didn't fogget you're a lawyer.
it would have been great if a fellow colleague of yours would have stepped in through the dealership doors with you, i bet they would have pooped in their pants if they saw Johnnie Walker with you.
it would have been great if a fellow colleague of yours would have stepped in through the dealership doors with you, i bet they would have pooped in their pants if they saw Johnnie Walker with you.