C36 AMG, C43 AMG (W202) 1995 - 2000

5.4 m113 rebuild

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Old 11-28-2014, 07:52 PM
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1999 AMG C43
5.4 m113 rebuild

So I'm looking at 5.4's for a swap, but I want to rebuild it before I drop it in, maybe even attach a blower. There are a number of reputable machine shops in my area that do rebuilds (not sure they do MBZ, but they are respectable), anyway I wanted to supply parts so is there a rebuild kit or is this going to be an expensive part by part process?
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Old 11-30-2014, 08:05 PM
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98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
This thread may help you a little bit:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...5-rebuild.html

I have not seen any 'gasket kits' for the M113. Some Google-ing didn't turn up anything immediately either.
Old 11-30-2014, 09:46 PM
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190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
There is no "rebuild kit", all parts are purchased separately. It's not a cheap process, unless the engine has an existing issue, high milage or you're looking to drive the car pretty hard I would suggest limiting the pre-installation repairs to a new timing chain, chain tensioner, new conrod bearings (can be done with pistons installed) and a rear main crank seal. It really depends on what you're looking to do with it and what condition the engine you're starting with is in.
Old 12-01-2014, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Ausmbtech
There is no "rebuild kit", all parts are purchased separately. It's not a cheap process, unless the engine has an existing issue, high milage or you're looking to drive the car pretty hard I would suggest limiting the pre-installation repairs to a new timing chain, chain tensioner, new conrod bearings (can be done with pistons installed) and a rear main crank seal. It really depends on what you're looking to do with it and what condition the engine you're starting with is in.
what are conrod bearings, do you have a partsnumber for these?
these bearings are they going bad on high mileage engines?
i found an 150000KM AMG engine which i might buy when i have the funds, however i don't like that the donor engine has 40000KM more mileage than my car mileage which is approx 110000KM


replacing rear main crank seal is it done when the engine is out of the car?
do you have a partsnumber for this seal?
Old 12-01-2014, 10:13 AM
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Conrod = the part between the piston and crankshaft
Old 12-01-2014, 11:29 AM
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Check pelicanparts.com for a gasket kit. Im not sure what else you might need but this is a good source. I use them all the time
Old 12-01-2014, 11:57 AM
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M113 engines are "alusil" engines, I think. rebuild options become quite limited as far as the actual combustion chamber. iron-coated pistons are required (if you're replacing them).

pretty much, just measure clearances as usual. odds are they will all still be within new-engine specs. at that point, just replace the rings and conrod bearings, freshen up the top end (valves/lifters maybe) and put it back together!
Old 12-01-2014, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by kowalski
what are conrod bearings, do you have a partsnumber for these?
these bearings are they going bad on high mileage engines?
i found an 150000KM AMG engine which i might buy when i have the funds, however i don't like that the donor engine has 40000KM more mileage than my car mileage which is approx 110000KM


replacing rear main crank seal is it done when the engine is out of the car?
do you have a partsnumber for this seal?
I've pulled 4 55 engines apart in the last 10yrs ranging from as little as 20k kms to 200k kms, all 4 engines showed some form on conrod bearing wear but not crank bearing wear. interestingly the 200K engine didn't have much more wear than the 70k km engine. Nothing I would be alarmed about, just enough that you would replace them if you had the opportunity.

Parts are available from pelican parts or your local dealer, use the engine number and NOT the VIN when ordering parts.
Old 12-02-2014, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Ausmbtech
I've pulled 4 55 engines apart in the last 10yrs ranging from as little as 20k kms to 200k kms, all 4 engines showed some form on conrod bearing wear but not crank bearing wear. interestingly the 200K engine didn't have much more wear than the 70k km engine. Nothing I would be alarmed about, just enough that you would replace them if you had the opportunity.

Parts are available from pelican parts or your local dealer, use the engine number and NOT the VIN when ordering parts.
the Conrod bearings, they are a weak part on M113980 engines?
to replace the conrod bearings you have to strip the engine upper part into molecules

i tried to look for conrod bearings, can't find these parts, maybe they go under a different parts name?
here is the link for engine parts from Pelican can you please show me the part?
i would like to know what this part looks like.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...887-Engine.htm

if there is no link on Pelican parts please show me from Autohausaz engine section.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/gro...0%26%20Gaskets

Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 12-02-2014 at 03:51 AM.
Old 12-02-2014, 07:04 PM
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I wouldn't say the rod bearings are a weak spot, they just show some signs of wear a little earlier than i would expect but once they have some wear the wear rate seems to slow. I wouldn't go out of my way to replace them but I would replace them given the opportunity of easy access by having the engine removed.

Some of the BMW M engines that overheat the bearings and either seize or break rods......that is a weak spot!

The rod bearings are a AMG only part, the common aftermarket brand "glyco" are for non AMG's.
Old 12-03-2014, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Ausmbtech
I wouldn't say the rod bearings are a weak spot, they just show some signs of wear a little earlier than i would expect but once they have some wear the wear rate seems to slow. I wouldn't go out of my way to replace them but I would replace them given the opportunity of easy access by having the engine removed.

Some of the BMW M engines that overheat the bearings and either seize or break rods......that is a weak spot!

The rod bearings are a AMG only part, the common aftermarket brand "glyco" are for non AMG's.

do you have a pic of these conrod bearings?
i need to know what they look like.
when i get my engine i might as well replace these bearings
Old 12-03-2014, 12:25 PM
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There is no standard rebuild on these because they don't just fall apart. Use common sense and do things that you think it might need. check the rod and main bearings. clean out the ring lands, I also installed all new rings. Go through the head, clean valves, new valve seals, new gaskets, clean everything real good and re-assemble.

Only use MB parts. I'd rather have the old original mb parts in there than some cheap junk china replacement parts that are going to fail instantly.

Or just put a new rear main, reseal valve covers, and drop it in. doesn't sound like you're very serious about it.
Old 12-03-2014, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by benzslo
There is no standard rebuild on these because they don't just fall apart. Use common sense and do things that you think it might need. check the rod and main bearings. clean out the ring lands, I also installed all new rings. Go through the head, clean valves, new valve seals, new gaskets, clean everything real good and re-assemble.

Only use MB parts. I'd rather have the old original mb parts in there than some cheap junk china replacement parts that are going to fail instantly.

Or just put a new rear main, reseal valve covers, and drop it in. doesn't sound like you're very serious about it.
Rear main seal is it this part 1129970246, see the bottom part #4 in this link?
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...t%20Oil%20Seal


i haven't bought an engine yet.
i'm looking to gather info first then will buy when the time is right for my wallet.

i know what i will have to replace which are the common wear n tear parts
these are easier to replace when the engine is out of the car.
Old 12-05-2014, 11:10 AM
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Yes that appears to be the rear main. There is a special tool to install it also.
Old 12-05-2014, 08:06 PM
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CONROD = Connecting Rod. Look fellas, with all due respect to wanting to go crazy here, these engines are bullet-proof for the most part, really, aside from some valve cover gaskets and the rear main seal, there is really no need to go through the engine too much, unless you know the donor engine has pre-existing issues. Keep servicing it, and it'll keep working well. Unless you are likely to keep the engine up in the 5-6k range for extended periods of time, you aren't likely to see issues. I've driven M113 5.4's with 160K MILES on them and they're fine, and they are ones that had seen tough lives. Timing chain and tensioner possibly, that's the farthest I'd go.
Old 12-05-2014, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Simoncic
CONROD = Connecting Rod. Look fellas, with all due respect to wanting to go crazy here, these engines are bullet-proof for the most part, really, aside from some valve cover gaskets and the rear main seal, there is really no need to go through the engine too much, unless you know the donor engine has pre-existing issues. Keep servicing it, and it'll keep working well. Unless you are likely to keep the engine up in the 5-6k range for extended periods of time, you aren't likely to see issues. I've driven M113 5.4's with 160K MILES on them and they're fine, and they are ones that had seen tough lives. Timing chain and tensioner possibly, that's the farthest I'd go.
285k on my 4.3 M113. Top notch, aside from chain rattle
Old 12-05-2014, 10:02 PM
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"Scott Simoncic" I've driven M113 5.4's with 160K MILES on them and they're fine, and they are ones that had seen tough lives.
My 02 E55 had 150k on it and it ran without a hiccup. I was still beating on some rice, TBSS, WRXs, even at elevation. A member here, "Midwest", has 254k on his motor.

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Old 12-05-2014, 10:46 PM
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The engines are strong and reliable enough that if you're on a budget you can just drop one in untouched. I think the following about sums it up......

Limited budget: Just drop it in

Small budget: Front and rear crank seals, oil cooler seals, rocker cover gaskets and spark plugs.

Medium budget: Above plus rod bearings, timing chain and tensioner

Big budget: Full rebuild
Old 12-05-2014, 11:18 PM
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Good description Ausmb.,

i done small budget, with oil pump strainer & valve covers gasket..

ZAYED,,
Old 12-06-2014, 12:44 PM
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So I pulled the trigger on a 5.4 on ebay, seemed pretty cheap, only $1,100 including shipping from a 99 e55 with 187k.

Will post pictures when it gets here, but the plan is to strip it down, have the block cleaned and figure out where the specs are.
Old 12-06-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mickey13
So I pulled the trigger on a 5.4 on ebay, seemed pretty cheap, only $1,100 including shipping from a 99 e55 with 187k.

Will post pictures when it gets here, but the plan is to strip it down, have the block cleaned and figure out where the specs are.

how much differs on mileage between your car and the new engine?

all of you guys, when you bought the 5.4L engine, did mileage differ a lot on cluster vs the 55 engine?
mileage won't be accurate on odometer
Old 12-06-2014, 01:35 PM
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My engine has 140k, seals are shot to $#!+ though, so my 4.3 is consuming about a quart of oil every 1200 miles. I got into a huge fight with Mercedes Benz of Fort Washington in Pennsylvania over this, they refused to fix my engine even though it was under warranty, they are the biggest crooks ever. I made a big stink with Mercedes Benz Corporate and the dealer called offering to check it out, but keep in mind that I had already brought it in close to a dozen times over this issue and they treated me like a complete jerk every time, even to go so far as to just top it off. I think I'm capable of topping off my own engine, I brought it in because it's UNDER WARRANTY and consuming a QUART of oil every 1200 miles or less.

Well the plan with the new engine is to rebuild it and add a blower. I'll probably try to straighten out the new engine before adding the blower. I've been reading up intensely on this engine and hope that the block is in spec with no wear, but I'll have to decide what I'm going to do if it isn't or has excessive wear. Once I have an understanding of the block, I'll start thinking about building up, whether remaining in spec or otherwise.
Old 12-06-2014, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mickey13
My engine has 140k, seals are shot to $#!+ though, so my 4.3 is consuming about a quart of oil every 1200 miles. I got into a huge fight with Mercedes Benz of Fort Washington in Pennsylvania over this, they refused to fix my engine even though it was under warranty, they are the biggest crooks ever. I made a big stink with Mercedes Benz Corporate and the dealer called offering to check it out, but keep in mind that I had already brought it in close to a dozen times over this issue and they treated me like a complete jerk every time, even to go so far as to just top it off. I think I'm capable of topping off my own engine, I brought it in because it's UNDER WARRANTY and consuming a QUART of oil every 1200 miles or less.

Well the plan with the new engine is to rebuild it and add a blower. I'll probably try to straighten out the new engine before adding the blower. I've been reading up intensely on this engine and hope that the block is in spec with no wear, but I'll have to decide what I'm going to do if it isn't or has excessive wear. Once I have an understanding of the block, I'll start thinking about building up, whether remaining in spec or otherwise.
sorry to hear about your problems with dealership
they can really be shi-ty to deal with sometimes!
you should have hired OJ's lawyer Johnny Cochran he would have helped you out with the sh-tty dealer
Old 12-06-2014, 02:42 PM
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LOL. Thanks. Did you forget that I am a lawyer!?! I determined that suing them wasn't worth my time. I charge $400/hr and the amount of money we are talking about for an engine rebuild by an indy is $2000 or less. Figure my time drafting up the complaint papers, cost of filing the lawsuit, cost of service of the lawsuit, cost of the expert to prove my damages and cost of my time at the trial... Just not worth it and what is the ultimate outcome? A 4.3 engine with new seals, sure might be nice if this car was a collector's car but these cars and engines are cheap and readily available so while there is some inherent value in keeping the car original and in working order, I feel like there isn't enough value there worth my time.

On top of that, I've decided to make the conversion to 5.4 and possibly more. So while I am quite upset with Mercedes Benz of Fort Washington in Pennsylvania for failing to honor the agreement we made, e.g. I purchase a car for x dollars (btw the car was obscenely overpriced), for the value of a car and the value of a warranty, I've decided that when I buy my next Mercedes Benz (probably $150k+), which will have to wait until I buy my home, I will not purchase it from Fort Washington, but I will send them a very nasty letter with a copy to Mercedes Benz Corporate with a copy of the invoice of the new car explaining why I went to another dealership.

Before I buy another Benz though, I am very interested in Porsche! LOL

Edit: Also I am keeping my 4.3, so it'll be around with matching numbers if by some sort of miracle the value on these cars skyrockets, but I am definitely not holding my breath.

Last edited by mickey13; 12-06-2014 at 02:49 PM.
Old 12-06-2014, 03:27 PM
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no, i didn't fogget you're a lawyer.
it would have been great if a fellow colleague of yours would have stepped in through the dealership doors with you, i bet they would have pooped in their pants if they saw Johnnie Walker with you.


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