Guys,

Some info on the C43 suspension you might find interesting if you are looking for a factory ride and lower stance,want to swap back from aftermarket or just want to understand the confusion when comparing our different market C43 suspensions,also some comparison and assumptions with CLK55 as they are same weight,same base chassis,same suspension arms with similar weight distributions..

Please suggest improvements if this info is inaccurate or found elsewhere on here.

North America "NA" C43 (high ride 4x4 looks)
Front Springs A202 321 20 04 Common with all 202/208 models
Rear Springs either A202 324 20 04 or A202 324 21 04 Common with all 202/208 + few 170 models.
Front shocks A202 323 41 00 Same as Euro C43,Euro CLK55
Rear shocks A202 326 30 00 Same as Euro C43,Euro CLK55

NA C43 front spring config:


NA C43 Rear spring config:

Euro C43(slightly lower than NA C43)
Front Springs A210 321 22 04 Common with NA CLK55
Rear Springs A210 324 34 04 Common with NA CLK55 and many 210,209,203
Front shocks A202 323 41 00 Common with NA C43 and Euro CLK55
Rear shocks A202 326 30 00 Common with NA C43 and Euro CLK55

Euro C43 front spring config:

C43 euro rear spring config:







here's where it starts to get interesting..

NA CLK55
Front Springs A210 321 22 04 Common with Euro C43
Rear Springs A210 324 34 04 Common with Euro C43 and many 210,209,203 models
Front shocks HWA 202 323 03 00 Used in NA C36
Rear shocks HWA 202 326 03 00 Used in NA C36

And here the most interesting part...

Euro CLK55(sits lower than NA CLK55)
Front Springs A210 321 32 04 Common with Euro E55 98 - 00
Rear Springs A208 324 02 04 Only found on Euro CLK55
Front shocks A202 323 41 00 Common with Euro C43 and NA C43
Rear shocks A202 326 30 00 Common with Euro C43 and NA C43


Has anybody ran Euro CLK55 springs in there C43 and found them to be lower than Euro C43?

We should be able to use Euro CLK55 springs and achieve lowest factory stance.

When I dissembled my Euro CLK55 I noticed there were factory correction bolts on the rear bush of both the front control arms,at first I though this was odd,but looking back now I assume this was to correct factory lowering, if one were to install on the C43 you would likely need to do the same.

Factory camber/caster correction bolts for +20' Camber/+25' Caster OR -20' Camber/-25' Caster,other configs can be used but that is all WIS specs.




Euro CLK55 suspension info here - https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...pressions.html







Cheers,

Euro C43 / NA CLK55 springs:





Euro CLK55 springs:

Excellent & interesting write-up Paul,

good to see how about these comparison, cause W202 is like a twins sister with W208, i don't know if anyone try that either,,

do you think to do this swap..?, it will help to see how compare them with aftermarket kit.!!

ZAYED,,

Hello Zayed,

Sure since I have these euro clk55 springs I must install them to find out

Unfortunatley I removed c43 springs yesturday but forgot to take exact measurement before I removed

However I did take finger measurments it was two in back and 1.75 in front

If I can I will take both euro c43 and clk55 to my local suspension shop to check spring rates, but they are only open in the new year so will have wait

merry festive season

I did a write up when I upgraded to my KW's some time back now
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...fications.html

I fully missed that thread thanks!

if you dont mind I will use your euro hieght photo to compare with clk55 here later once installed

cheers,

No problem. The info is open source ;-)

Cheers

I managed to compare both the Euro CLk55 and C43 springs today, the CLk55 front is 9mm shorter and the rear is 14mm. If spring rates are similar than the drop will be a few mm's more than this based on the spring location.

I'm glad the rear has 5mm extra drop because I think the C43 suits some rake but I currently have a little too much even with #1 pads, it should make fender gaps equal front and rear I hope..



Front:

Rear:

Good to know :-)

Installed the Euro CLK55 springs, it has exactly (within 0.5mm)1 finger gap front and rear. A quick check with digital level shows front camber is ~1.40' and rear is ~2.00' .. So rear is maybe a little too much but front can be pulled in to 1.20' so have installed the camber bolts from the Euro CLk55.

Ironically,EPC shows all CLK55 come with spring pads 17mm rear and 9mm front... ,this would make it only slightly lower than euro C43 with #1 pads. comparing axle heights in wis also shows the euro clk55 sits slightly lower than euro C43.

The Euro C43 I have came with #1 pads front/rear,though if you have sunroof option etc then your are likely to be on #2 front/rear?

To keep within 202/208 axle level specs I think I will need to run #2 pads front and rear,in theory this would equate to approx 2mm drop front and 7mm rear over the standard C43 euro setup with #1 pads.

Pics to come once I get the new prop shaft in and can drive it.

Mine with the sunroof had #1 pads at both ends...

Despite the chart above maybe all euro C43 had #1's?

Edit - Using the chart above with your options does this make yours a #1 pad?

i had #1 front/rear factory setup.
now it's #1F/#4R with Vogtland springs and Koni shox, gives me a najs 1 finger gap

Hello Dennis,
One finger gap looks nice!. Did you install front or rear camber correction?

Cheers,

hey brother

yes i had the front camber bolts installed, i also had to get adjustable rear camber arms when i had 4 new tires fitted, also fitted new bushings/arms fitted all the way front/rear @ approx 95000km's.
that's it.

maybe it was a bit early replacing all the rubbers and arms?
i wanted a new performance suspension feel with my new toys.
if you want the best for your car it will cost ya, you know what i'm talking about

cheerio

On front lower arms did you install camber bolts on both bushes or just the rear bush?

Over hear we need certification to run the rear adjustable camber arms, this cost 500nzd and then you need to have a plate rivited to your chassis, If I keep this ride height I think I will install my old adjustable rear arms to have the car alignment done, then remove and use as a measuring device to make an alloy arm that has no adjustment and uses factory rubber bushes.

I have not seen the rear bushes wear much, but I am sure refreshing them would make some difference ..plus its always nice to make a rare car look new again

Here is photo to indicate height with Euro clk55/#1 pads, unfortunately i need a larger garage and new camera!!

your car looks a bit high in rear.
my ride height was like that with stock springs and #1 pads b4 botox makeover

i'm sure i used a camber bolt kit for each LCA.

you have some strange laws in NZ for tuning your cars with special toys.
same thing goes for Germany if certain parts are not TÜV gepruft then they are not road legal.
in Sweden we have a law which is Whole car aprove by EU.

this means i can not touch anything on my car because of strict EU regulations, however i did the opposite and turned my car into a very special version ONLY missing is the right engine for now, the MOT guys where i have to go every year to do a full vehicle inspection they don't say a jack shiet about my mods.
they only comment, it's a nice MB.
a few years ago one of the MOT guys asked me if he could borrow my car for the weekend so he and his missus could enjoy it.
i told him, sorry you need a drivers license for an AMG, MOT guy just laughed.

I would try my luck too if I did not own one

Did you notice any loss of grip in tight turns with increased caster up front?

For easy comparison wheel center to guard is 327mm Rear and 326.5mm front.

i can take the corners much faster now, didn't notice any slips
however i still have to be careful doing fast corners i don't wanna damage my Brabus rims near curbs

Do you notice any loss of grip when doing U-turns?

sorry, i haven't tried on U-turns

when it's wet i lose some traction if i come to hard in a corner and the esp will flash a few times, but that's fun.
on dry roads i have to provoce the accelerator to lose grip

Thanks Dennis,

on my old setup with eibach pro kit I had no camber/caster correction in the front, I could feel the tires riding on the very outer edge when turning near full lock, I assumed this was due to excessive caster/camber combo and was exaggerated when i ran lower profile tires...I wondered if it was more of a camber issue than caster hence asking you because you have both camber bolts installed but your caster will have not been corrected.

sorry man, i can't give you more info about camber/caster as my mechanic fitted all the parts and did a 4 wheel alignment.
i'm very pleased with my ride, she's sooooo much more fun to drive with the Koni adjustables set on hardest setting.
she was stiff with the original euro set up, with the new parts this is somethin' else.
Dennis likes it helluva lot better!!

Thats ok thanks,

You are running Twin tube right,did you run these with euro springs in the beginning?

If so then gas pressure is VERY low(50 - 150Psi) in smaller piston twin tube compared to factory large piston monotube(~350Psi) this makes a fair difference in ride height I have both shocks lying in the garage.. the koni's are extremely easy to compress and take approx 5-7kg to hold compression, where as the Mono Bilstiens take 20 - 25kgs.

Koni twin tube being slightly heavier at 2.15kg each on the front vs Bilstiens mono at 1.4kg. around 3kg more unsprung overall.