Viscous fan clutch?
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Okay, thanks Vince! I plan to order these parts tomorrow.
I have been considering various manufacturers, it looks like Behr and Febi are the oem, this of course means the most expensive. There is also a company called Uro, they get good reviews. Has anyone had experience w/ their products? The cost is about half of these others. I generally only install oem for peace of mind. Please let me know your thoughts.
Cheers.
I have been considering various manufacturers, it looks like Behr and Febi are the oem, this of course means the most expensive. There is also a company called Uro, they get good reviews. Has anyone had experience w/ their products? The cost is about half of these others. I generally only install oem for peace of mind. Please let me know your thoughts.
Cheers.
Last edited by RPB; Jul 4, 2015 at 12:23 PM.
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Can you please confirm the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley you're referring to are part #'s 103-200-05-70 & 601-200-10-70? I also found this part: http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...9qLkFx7wQ.aspx. I am a little confused!
Thanks again for all the help!
Last edited by RPB; Jul 4, 2015 at 03:59 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Henrico, Virginia
2014 ML350 4Matic
I get my part numbers from the EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog). For the earlier tensioner the part number is 103-200-05-70. For the later tensioner the part number is 119-200-14-70 (the EPC also adds that the diameter is 92mm). The difference between the tensioners is fairly obvious. The early one has a rubber bushing (like a suspension control arm bushing) to provide tension on the belt and there is a small shock absorber. The later one is spring loaded and there is no shock absorber. For a '95 I am going to guess it is the earlier one. Without the chassis number I can't be more specific.
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Thanks, I thought you might be referring to this part: http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...9qLkFx7wQ.aspx.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 789
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From: Henrico, Virginia
2014 ML350 4Matic
That is the late tensioner. I can't tell you if that fits your car. Look at your car. Does it have a small shock absorber between the water pump and the tensioner? That would be the early tensioner. If no shock it should look like the one in the link. Like I said, I don't get my part numbers from online vendors; I get them from the M-B parts system, the same thing the dealer looks at. Sometimes the online guys match up, sometimes not. The online vendors often get this part wrong. My 1995 C280 had the earlier tensioner, but all the online vendors list the later one. Don't trust, verify
You want the pulley that goes with the tensioner system you have.
You want the pulley that goes with the tensioner system you have.
Last edited by vinceC; Jul 4, 2015 at 06:24 PM. Reason: Added info.
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
Good man changing these as a set. If you do a search I posted a video of what a failing fan idler bearing sounds like when it goes.
While the fan clutch is out and the belt off give the water pump pulley a spin by hand to feel for smoothness and lift up and down on it to see if there is any slop in the bushing. They really are not that expensive/hard to replace if you already have the fan shroud and fan/clutch off.
As far as the clutch I'm running the uro clutch.. Didn't want to spend much money on a clutch since they take up so much room and always planned on converting some day. But its cheap for a reason. The Behr clutch was much much better built and seemed to disengage quicker when cold/start up. But the uro has been working for the last 5k so can't fault it there.
While the fan clutch is out and the belt off give the water pump pulley a spin by hand to feel for smoothness and lift up and down on it to see if there is any slop in the bushing. They really are not that expensive/hard to replace if you already have the fan shroud and fan/clutch off.
As far as the clutch I'm running the uro clutch.. Didn't want to spend much money on a clutch since they take up so much room and always planned on converting some day. But its cheap for a reason. The Behr clutch was much much better built and seemed to disengage quicker when cold/start up. But the uro has been working for the last 5k so can't fault it there.
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I picked the car up today, I am glad to post these parts did the trick in terms of the cooling issue and the car does not go above 88-90c now. 
I now have another issue though, I noticed when the gentleman at the dealership brought my car to me it was running rough. It rained this morning before I picked it up, they also ran the car through their wash yesterday, so I figured some condensation might have got on the spark plugs or coils. I drove the car for about 10-15 miles, I let it sit for a few hours but it still runs very rough (misfiring). The CEL illuminated, I have codes 0301, 0341, 1340, and 0325. Two of these codes seem to be related to the CPS, it did take a sec to crank when I started it an hour ago. I plan to let the car sit overnight and tomorrow, if this issue persists I will take it back to MB on Monday.
I was hoping to drive this car tonight, but think it's best that I do not right now considering the circumstances. Any ideas as to what might be going on here? Is the CPS located in the rear of the engine on a C36? I'm thinking the mechanic maybe forgot to plug something back in after he installed the parts.
Any help would be appreciated as always, thanks for all the assistance from everyone on my cooling issue. Sorry to hit you guys up for more help now.
Thanks!
I now have another issue though, I noticed when the gentleman at the dealership brought my car to me it was running rough. It rained this morning before I picked it up, they also ran the car through their wash yesterday, so I figured some condensation might have got on the spark plugs or coils. I drove the car for about 10-15 miles, I let it sit for a few hours but it still runs very rough (misfiring). The CEL illuminated, I have codes 0301, 0341, 1340, and 0325. Two of these codes seem to be related to the CPS, it did take a sec to crank when I started it an hour ago. I plan to let the car sit overnight and tomorrow, if this issue persists I will take it back to MB on Monday.
I was hoping to drive this car tonight, but think it's best that I do not right now considering the circumstances. Any ideas as to what might be going on here? Is the CPS located in the rear of the engine on a C36? I'm thinking the mechanic maybe forgot to plug something back in after he installed the parts.
Any help would be appreciated as always, thanks for all the assistance from everyone on my cooling issue. Sorry to hit you guys up for more help now.
Thanks!
Last edited by RPB; Jul 11, 2015 at 06:34 PM.
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
Maybe dealer open the hood while the car been out side, then some water sneaks to the coils or plugs or MAF film,
prefer if you can disconnect the battery overnight, then try to see if everything back to normal or not..!
I think you have M104, isn't, if so, CPS should be in exactly near "oil pressure sensor", you have to remove it, to pull the CPS out,,
i hope i'm not wrong..!!
ZAYED,,
prefer if you can disconnect the battery overnight, then try to see if everything back to normal or not..!
I think you have M104, isn't, if so, CPS should be in exactly near "oil pressure sensor", you have to remove it, to pull the CPS out,,
i hope i'm not wrong..!
!ZAYED,,
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 789
Likes: 55
From: Henrico, Virginia
2014 ML350 4Matic
These codes don't seem entirely related to me. CPS, Cam Position Sensor, Knock Sensor, Misfire? Has the wiring harness been replaced? A bad harness can cause multiple, seemingly unrelated codes. The cars of that era had issues with failing insulation on the wiring harness (M104, M119, etc.). I would clear the codes and retry running the car and then work from there.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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These codes don't seem entirely related to me. CPS, Cam Position Sensor, Knock Sensor, Misfire? Has the wiring harness been replaced? A bad harness can cause multiple, seemingly unrelated codes. The cars of that era had issues with failing insulation on the wiring harness (M104, M119, etc.). I would clear the codes and retry running the car and then work from there.
The car feels as though it's still running rough, I had to run out and only took it for a spin around my neighborhood. The harness was replaced 15-20k miles ago. I plan to let the car sit overnight and clear the codes. It would probably be a good idea to unhook the battery for 20-30 min for it to fully clear, and I was driving around w/ the CPS unplugged. How the heck did the car start without that being plugged in.
I believe the misfire code was on cylinder #1.
Last edited by RPB; Jul 11, 2015 at 08:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 12
...
Maybe dealer open the hood while the car been out side, then some water sneaks to the coils or plugs or MAF film,
prefer if you can disconnect the battery overnight, then try to see if everything back to normal or not..!
I think you have M104, isn't, if so, CPS should be in exactly near "oil pressure sensor", you have to remove it, to pull the CPS out,,
i hope i'm not wrong..!!
ZAYED,,
prefer if you can disconnect the battery overnight, then try to see if everything back to normal or not..!
I think you have M104, isn't, if so, CPS should be in exactly near "oil pressure sensor", you have to remove it, to pull the CPS out,,
i hope i'm not wrong..!
!ZAYED,,
Thanks again!!
Last edited by RPB; Jul 11, 2015 at 09:12 PM.
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I unhooked the battery last night after reinserting the CPS plug, the car fired up perfectly this morning and runs like a gem right now. There have been no codes after 40+ miles of driving. I can definitely feel a difference in how the car drives with the new bearing and clutch, it's hard to explain and prior to having this work done I could not feel any movement but now it has resistance and is audible from the cabin. I believe that I got lucky, the guy boxed up the old parts and they looked in terrible shape, I am just glad the fan did not detach and cause havoc inside the engine bay.
I really appreciate all the assistance and speedy responses! I would highly recommend that these components do not get overlooked by anyone trying to diagnose a hot running issue, the parts are not too expensive. The results put a big smile on my face when I took it out for a spin earlier, it's now time to focus on getting the A/C system sorted.
Cheers,
-Rob
I really appreciate all the assistance and speedy responses! I would highly recommend that these components do not get overlooked by anyone trying to diagnose a hot running issue, the parts are not too expensive. The results put a big smile on my face when I took it out for a spin earlier, it's now time to focus on getting the A/C system sorted.
Cheers,
-Rob
Last edited by RPB; Jul 12, 2015 at 01:18 PM.
