car died on highway..
#152
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Im glad I teplaced a few things. The car needed a little tune up.
Im gonna drop the exhaust coz Ive had a bad 02 sensor light before and I know those are on their way out
Im gonna drop the exhaust coz Ive had a bad 02 sensor light before and I know those are on their way out
#154
I've been following this thread an as funny as it seems, since the author was repeatedly told to just put a gallon in there, before making engine salad...
It just goes to show how used we've gotten to these cars being "complex". Something happens and we don't even give a chance to the easy solutions.
Cheers to a revised engine!
It just goes to show how used we've gotten to these cars being "complex". Something happens and we don't even give a chance to the easy solutions.
Cheers to a revised engine!
#156
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
You forgot that a "camel" needs to drink
Guess sometimes the simple things become the most difficult, or perhaps we refuse to see them...
Good job!
Guess sometimes the simple things become the most difficult, or perhaps we refuse to see them...
Good job!
#157
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2014 ML350 4Matic
Good to hear. Now the challenge is to figure out which of the two sensors is bad. The last time I had to deal with this issue I had to pull both sensors and measure the resistance as I moved the float. The bad one was obvious. If you do tackle this keep in mind that the sensors are low in the tank so it must be virtually empty to keep you from getting drowned in gas. A dealer has a suction device they connect to a port on the sensor to suck the fuel out.
One other note: I have had these sensors fix themselves - sounds weird but in my experience they will sometimes gradually come back into range and the problem will go away. In the time being, keep an eye on your trip odometer. In my experience a C43 won't get much over 300 miles on a tank - in normal driving.
One other note: I have had these sensors fix themselves - sounds weird but in my experience they will sometimes gradually come back into range and the problem will go away. In the time being, keep an eye on your trip odometer. In my experience a C43 won't get much over 300 miles on a tank - in normal driving.
#158
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Thread Starter
I've been following this thread an as funny as it seems, since the author was repeatedly told to just put a gallon in there, before making engine salad...
It just goes to show how used we've gotten to these cars being "complex". Something happens and we don't even give a chance to the easy solutions.
Cheers to a revised engine!
It just goes to show how used we've gotten to these cars being "complex". Something happens and we don't even give a chance to the easy solutions.
Cheers to a revised engine!
I put two gallons in and as soon as I turned the key and realized the scale still has not moved I figured this has to be it. Sure enough, second attempt the car fired right up
I knew it was gonna be something stupid anyway. This car has been really reliable for me
#159
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Good to hear. Now the challenge is to figure out which of the two sensors is bad. The last time I had to deal with this issue I had to pull both sensors and measure the resistance as I moved the float. The bad one was obvious. If you do tackle this keep in mind that the sensors are low in the tank so it must be virtually empty to keep you from getting drowned in gas. A dealer has a suction device they connect to a port on the sensor to suck the fuel out.
One other note: I have had these sensors fix themselves - sounds weird but in my experience they will sometimes gradually come back into range and the problem will go away. In the time being, keep an eye on your trip odometer. In my experience a C43 won't get much over 300 miles on a tank - in normal driving.
One other note: I have had these sensors fix themselves - sounds weird but in my experience they will sometimes gradually come back into range and the problem will go away. In the time being, keep an eye on your trip odometer. In my experience a C43 won't get much over 300 miles on a tank - in normal driving.
I also ran out of gas once way back in this same car and I dont remember the check engine light coming on.
Thats what kind of threw me off
#160
i think spare is approx 8L, if you were very low on gas, your fuel gauge might not budge on fuel scale on that small amount of gas you had in your tank, only lamp for low on gas wudd illuminate.
i'm glad you're back on track
does anyone know if tank is 54L+8L spare = 62L
or
62L+8L spare = 70L?
a V8 powered engine takes a massive gulp stepping on accelerator and then tank is empty within few hours?
i'm glad you're back on track
does anyone know if tank is 54L+8L spare = 62L
or
62L+8L spare = 70L?
a V8 powered engine takes a massive gulp stepping on accelerator and then tank is empty within few hours?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 01-02-2017 at 01:00 PM.
#161
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
I believe it is 61 including the reserve. 62 sounds also correct.
I'll check.....
I'll check.....
#162
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So today, a beautiful day in NJ, I went to grab some beers because I am working from home. The car dies on my way out of the liquor store. I try to crank it (I've been having problems with my battery lately - it's fine but its on its way out), and it just cranks cranks cranks. Sounds like a fuel issue to me so I let it roll down a hill and stop it across the street from a gas station and a tire repair shop where they do minor repairs. I run over to the gas station, they sell me gas container and I put about 2 gallons of fuel in it. The mark was reading just under quarter of a tank and it's been pretty good to me as I usually drive it some miles when the low gas light comes on.
OK. Go to crank it and nothing but crank crank crank, and it sounds like the battery is dying. I slug my way over to the tire repair shop to see if they have a tow truck - they don't. They want me to call a tow truck because it's on a busy intersection with a concrete median so no easy way to get it in. I ask them if they have a battery booster and he says yeah and then says they aren't holding charge... I'm like yeah ok.
So now, i've recently had the new engine put in and I also have a new key. So I'm wondering if it could be related to either of those. Also my phone battery is dead so I really can't even call anyone for help. My home is about 3 miles down the road so I'm thinking I will have it towed to my house if I do call a truck.
Also thinking that over the last 2 or 3 days, the car is not running as smoothly as it was when I first picked it up. Seems like it has been taking a little longer to crank and also the engine feels a bit bouncy when pressing the break, like right before fully pressing it down.
So I make a call, no answer... leave a message... I'm stuck on x highway and y street, please find me a reasonably priced tow truck to get me home.
Jump in the car, put the key in and turn... battery is really drained now but when it sounds like everything is over... crank crank crank... VROOM!!!
Put it in drive, stop at another gas station. (Person I called for help calls me back and says.. I couldn't hear your message,,, what do you want? -HAHAHA) Don't turn it off, put $10 in. Drive out to my home, pull into the parking lot... into my space. Crack open a beer.
Leave the car running and begin to walk into the condo, as I'm walking in the car stalls...
Charging up the MB Star clone to hopefully pull a code. At least its 75 today and not freezing out.
Also I'don't know if it is related, but my radio wouldn't tune correctly when I left the house to the liquor store. I also know they used my old fuel injectors off the 4.3 instead of the ones from the 5.4, wasn't positive if it was because the 5.4 fuel injectors wouldn't work or they were just being lazy about swapping them over.
OK. Go to crank it and nothing but crank crank crank, and it sounds like the battery is dying. I slug my way over to the tire repair shop to see if they have a tow truck - they don't. They want me to call a tow truck because it's on a busy intersection with a concrete median so no easy way to get it in. I ask them if they have a battery booster and he says yeah and then says they aren't holding charge... I'm like yeah ok.
So now, i've recently had the new engine put in and I also have a new key. So I'm wondering if it could be related to either of those. Also my phone battery is dead so I really can't even call anyone for help. My home is about 3 miles down the road so I'm thinking I will have it towed to my house if I do call a truck.
Also thinking that over the last 2 or 3 days, the car is not running as smoothly as it was when I first picked it up. Seems like it has been taking a little longer to crank and also the engine feels a bit bouncy when pressing the break, like right before fully pressing it down.
So I make a call, no answer... leave a message... I'm stuck on x highway and y street, please find me a reasonably priced tow truck to get me home.
Jump in the car, put the key in and turn... battery is really drained now but when it sounds like everything is over... crank crank crank... VROOM!!!
Put it in drive, stop at another gas station. (Person I called for help calls me back and says.. I couldn't hear your message,,, what do you want? -HAHAHA) Don't turn it off, put $10 in. Drive out to my home, pull into the parking lot... into my space. Crack open a beer.
Leave the car running and begin to walk into the condo, as I'm walking in the car stalls...
Charging up the MB Star clone to hopefully pull a code. At least its 75 today and not freezing out.
Also I'don't know if it is related, but my radio wouldn't tune correctly when I left the house to the liquor store. I also know they used my old fuel injectors off the 4.3 instead of the ones from the 5.4, wasn't positive if it was because the 5.4 fuel injectors wouldn't work or they were just being lazy about swapping them over.
Last edited by mickey13; 02-24-2017 at 02:07 PM.
#164
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Well, I am certain it is not the key. I used the old key and had it running for a long time, then I used the new key and had it running for a long time as well.
ALSO no current or stored codes using MB Star.
I pulled off the MAF and the filter box, just to see if the MAF had come loose, I reinstalled everything and the car started right up.
But I have a suspicion that the mechanic did not tighten up the engine mounts to spec. Remember that bouncy feeling I am getting from the engine when applying the brakes...
well, I physically shook the engine while it is running and it stalled.
How much play am I supposed to have, I don't think I should be able to shake the engine with my hands when it is off or on... CAN SOMEONE confirm? because when I shake the engine with my hands while it is running it stalled. I think the engine should hardly move at all when I shake with my hands. trust me guys, i am not that strong, i do not work out LOL.
I'm going back outside to run MB Start again and also to check the airbox again, I am thinking the engine is moving around so much that some loose connection causing it to stall.
ALSO no current or stored codes using MB Star.
I pulled off the MAF and the filter box, just to see if the MAF had come loose, I reinstalled everything and the car started right up.
But I have a suspicion that the mechanic did not tighten up the engine mounts to spec. Remember that bouncy feeling I am getting from the engine when applying the brakes...
well, I physically shook the engine while it is running and it stalled.
How much play am I supposed to have, I don't think I should be able to shake the engine with my hands when it is off or on... CAN SOMEONE confirm? because when I shake the engine with my hands while it is running it stalled. I think the engine should hardly move at all when I shake with my hands. trust me guys, i am not that strong, i do not work out LOL.
I'm going back outside to run MB Start again and also to check the airbox again, I am thinking the engine is moving around so much that some loose connection causing it to stall.
#165
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I dont think thats gonna stall it but I could be wrong.
My c280(m112) had engine mounts so bad that the car shook completely in D. The mounts were shot so bad that they were over half inch lower than new mounts.
Never had the car stall.
My c280(m112) had engine mounts so bad that the car shook completely in D. The mounts were shot so bad that they were over half inch lower than new mounts.
Never had the car stall.
#166
mikey did you have new engine mounts with the new motor?
if engine is bouncy not bolted properly it might tear apart the earth strap between engine and body giving you crank problems.
i hope it's an easy problem
if engine is bouncy not bolted properly it might tear apart the earth strap between engine and body giving you crank problems.
i hope it's an easy problem
#167
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Moving the engine by hand should be impossible. Could be your monts have not been tightened correctly or the screws have fallen out. Cutting engine sounds like a loose connecter somewhere. I would check the earth cables. I had a baby benz W201 many years ago and had starting problems. Checked everything and found a corroded earth strap. Changed for a new one and problem solved.
#168
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Yes, I had new mounts put on. Moving the engine by hand makes it sound like I'm in an old bed with my GF. LOL Squeek Squeek Squeek.
I agree, it could absolutely be a loose ground, makes sense as radio not working properly this morning. Motor mounts need to be tightened may also lost a screw on the bottom.
About to put the car on ramps if i can get her started again for a better look underneath.
otherwise i am guessing to replace fuel filter, plugs, wires, maf (have 2 spares maf and have new wires/plugs).
maybe fuel injectors too, anyone who did the swap knows if the w208 or w210 injectors would work?
I agree, it could absolutely be a loose ground, makes sense as radio not working properly this morning. Motor mounts need to be tightened may also lost a screw on the bottom.
About to put the car on ramps if i can get her started again for a better look underneath.
otherwise i am guessing to replace fuel filter, plugs, wires, maf (have 2 spares maf and have new wires/plugs).
maybe fuel injectors too, anyone who did the swap knows if the w208 or w210 injectors would work?
#170
must have been a sloppy/incompetent mechanic doing the engine swap?
try to locate the issues with your car then call the shop and file a complaint.
maybe you can sue this shop refunding you for your engine swap cost?
try to locate the issues with your car then call the shop and file a complaint.
maybe you can sue this shop refunding you for your engine swap cost?
#171
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i think that is going to be tough to do, car ran like butter the day i drove it out, also i supply the shop with the engine and all the parts. absent the problem ONLY being loose motor mounts, they aren't going to have any fault if engine or components fail.
#172
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turns out i only had 1 extra MAF but I do have 3 elbows lol. I cleaned up the spare MAF and one of the elbows really good, I think its off the 4.3.
So the battery was dead and I popped on the spare MAF, put my battery jumper on and it started right up.
i drove it a bit around the parking lot and the bounciness that i was getting when applying the brake seemed to pretty much disappear.
so i shut the engine off and tried to restart it. it hesitated but started up. then i shut off and tried to restart, this time it wouldn't restart only getting clicking instead of cranking. could be the battery is still low. let is sit for a few seconds, turned the key again and it started right up.
left it running outside, be back in a few minutes.
Went back outside and it was stalled and of course the battery is dead so I am back to square one. At least I know it is probably not the MAF.
I'll try to get under her tomorrow morning and look at the earth. I can also replace all the plugs and wires tomorrow. Just thought I'd get some kind of misfire error if it was a spark issue. i did notice my actuation values on each cylinder were different.
So the battery was dead and I popped on the spare MAF, put my battery jumper on and it started right up.
i drove it a bit around the parking lot and the bounciness that i was getting when applying the brake seemed to pretty much disappear.
so i shut the engine off and tried to restart it. it hesitated but started up. then i shut off and tried to restart, this time it wouldn't restart only getting clicking instead of cranking. could be the battery is still low. let is sit for a few seconds, turned the key again and it started right up.
left it running outside, be back in a few minutes.
Went back outside and it was stalled and of course the battery is dead so I am back to square one. At least I know it is probably not the MAF.
I'll try to get under her tomorrow morning and look at the earth. I can also replace all the plugs and wires tomorrow. Just thought I'd get some kind of misfire error if it was a spark issue. i did notice my actuation values on each cylinder were different.
Last edited by mickey13; 02-24-2017 at 11:26 PM.
#175
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
I doubt that because with a dodgy battery it will drain to zero in no time at all. Never leave your key in the ignition as you may have an unpleasant surprise a couple of days later when you need to go...