What did you do to your C36/C43 AMG today?
#51
Senior Member
maybe we should start a new thread for this? I would LOVE a visual log and reference if you go down this path, because if you can figure out a way to fabricate these things I would buy a set
I recommend buying any old m113 used intake manifold and opening it up for early experiments, so you don't ruin/disassemble your original AMG manifold. as far as i know they are identical except the AMG one is actually stamped AMG somewhere.
notice that's the top half of his intake manifold, so these stacks would be facing down, which is quite odd, but it's the only way this intake could do it. fwiw, this intake was quite revolutionary when it was new, with much better low end power and efficiency. even my 55 swapped C43 gets 24mpg on the highway.
but back to what this thread was meant for:
heading to my friend's wrecked C43 this weekend to begin scavenging parts off the poor soul. he said I can use whatever I want. I don't need much but i'm going to get what i can. I just wish I could get his entire rear subframe. if I had the money i'd buy the whole car because it's really fixable.
I recommend buying any old m113 used intake manifold and opening it up for early experiments, so you don't ruin/disassemble your original AMG manifold. as far as i know they are identical except the AMG one is actually stamped AMG somewhere.
notice that's the top half of his intake manifold, so these stacks would be facing down, which is quite odd, but it's the only way this intake could do it. fwiw, this intake was quite revolutionary when it was new, with much better low end power and efficiency. even my 55 swapped C43 gets 24mpg on the highway.
but back to what this thread was meant for:
heading to my friend's wrecked C43 this weekend to begin scavenging parts off the poor soul. he said I can use whatever I want. I don't need much but i'm going to get what i can. I just wish I could get his entire rear subframe. if I had the money i'd buy the whole car because it's really fixable.
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
Posts: 5,676
Received 257 Likes
on
217 Posts
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
So to get back to the original subject, before we all got high jacked on modified intakes and velocity stacks, I finally ordered a new set of tyres for "T-Rex". Fitting scheduled next Wednesday and will be wearing Michelin new PS4. Currently PS3's on the beast now and worn to the wear indicators, so it's really time for a change. I may do a couple of burn outs to finish them out totally before next week.
Tomorrow I'll be installing a new steering shock absorber. Some slight tremors in the wheel around 110-120kmh, but it could also be the worn out tyres.
Tomorrow I'll be installing a new steering shock absorber. Some slight tremors in the wheel around 110-120kmh, but it could also be the worn out tyres.
#56
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
Posts: 5,676
Received 257 Likes
on
217 Posts
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
This afternoon I got my 43 on axle stands (front) and slid under to replace the steering damper. Simple job done in 5 minutes, including cleaning the bolts and putting loctite on one which screws into the steering lever.
The damper was totally shot and I clearly identified and confirmed the source of the oil spots (yellow and thin) on the ground. The damper was leaking Also the resistance was as much as a unconnected bicycle air pump
Here's a quick video of the old one and for those who may ask, no it doesn't have any manufacturers stamp anywhere on the damper. The new one is a Febi/Bilstein.
Tomorrow afternoon I'll be getting my new Michelin tyres in the latest PS4 type
The damper was totally shot and I clearly identified and confirmed the source of the oil spots (yellow and thin) on the ground. The damper was leaking Also the resistance was as much as a unconnected bicycle air pump
Here's a quick video of the old one and for those who may ask, no it doesn't have any manufacturers stamp anywhere on the damper. The new one is a Febi/Bilstein.
Tomorrow afternoon I'll be getting my new Michelin tyres in the latest PS4 type
#57
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
Posts: 5,676
Received 257 Likes
on
217 Posts
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Went to my favourite tyre dealer to change the tyres this afternoon.
The first surprise and a major one which could have caused some serious stuff, the two front tyres were worn down on the inside to the metallic structure. That is a potential blow out risk so I'm very happy this was identified before anything happened. Guess you need to look closer when running a negative camber. I should have looked when I had the wheels off to pressure clean them the last time , as I do this 3-4 times a season. It keeps the wheels fresh and reduces corroding brake dust build up.
The rears had a nice even wear but as they were on the minimum bumps, nothing could be salvaged in extra life without risking trouble with the people in uniform should I get pulled over.
Anyway the new SP4's have a nice tread pattern and driving back home (+/-80km), I noticed immediately the ride is much softer, they run very quite and steering reaction is nice and sharp I need to run them in a bit more before pressing harder. Also the technician recommended to use a 2.5bar pressure on all four tyres with these newer compounds. It is surprising as we all (?) are used to different pressures between front and rear.
Finally, the small vibration I felt in the steering has totally gone now. Guess the new damper and tyres were the ideal solution.
The first surprise and a major one which could have caused some serious stuff, the two front tyres were worn down on the inside to the metallic structure. That is a potential blow out risk so I'm very happy this was identified before anything happened. Guess you need to look closer when running a negative camber. I should have looked when I had the wheels off to pressure clean them the last time , as I do this 3-4 times a season. It keeps the wheels fresh and reduces corroding brake dust build up.
The rears had a nice even wear but as they were on the minimum bumps, nothing could be salvaged in extra life without risking trouble with the people in uniform should I get pulled over.
Anyway the new SP4's have a nice tread pattern and driving back home (+/-80km), I noticed immediately the ride is much softer, they run very quite and steering reaction is nice and sharp I need to run them in a bit more before pressing harder. Also the technician recommended to use a 2.5bar pressure on all four tyres with these newer compounds. It is surprising as we all (?) are used to different pressures between front and rear.
Finally, the small vibration I felt in the steering has totally gone now. Guess the new damper and tyres were the ideal solution.
#58
Senior Member
Changed over the engine mounts and trans mount last night. Thanks to fcpeuro i got lemforder parts with lifetime warranty for $150. I ended up using the 55 kompressor mounts and HOLY CRAP its like i have a brand new car. I could not believe the difference and how smooth the car is now. I legitimately couldn't feel if the car was turned on at first.
#59
Super Member
Originally Posted by brad_c43
Changed over the engine mounts and trans mount last night. Thanks to fcpeuro i got lemforder parts with lifetime warranty for $150. I ended up using the 55 kompressor mounts and HOLY CRAP its like i have a brand new car. I could not believe the difference and how smooth the car is now. I legitimately couldn't feel if the car was turned on at first.
#60
Senior Member
I just did my engine mounts & trans mounts I think last week. Initially it felt way better, but when I shake the engine by hand, there is a decent amount of movement. Was going to switch to 55K mounts, but figured wth. Maybe I'll send these back. Did you access the top of the engine mount bolt from underneath or going from the top?
People were talking about removing the exhaust or moving the alternator and ac compressor for space but i didn't have to do any of that. The drivers side i pushed forward and it fell down in the open space there ad the passenger side came out just as easy.
I can rock the motor side to side now with the mounts on but there's almost no vibrations at all. Highly recommend new mounts for everyone. Both my old ones collapsed in and the trans mount was almost in two pieces as well.
#61
Super Member
Ok cool, same here. I put mine on my lift & did everything from underneath too with one of those offset 16mm tools; no need to remove anything other than the engine mount heat shields.
#62
Senior Member
You guys make me want to trade out motor/tranny mounts! What is the benefit of going w/CLK 55 motor mounts?
I would think that some side-to-side movement using your hands would be good for comfort, but not-so-good for performance?
Also, trying to replace a cracked barrel and face for some Schmidt VN's I bought. Best replacement seems to be out of Germany, but I've never bought anything overseas before. What is the best way to pay for parts that need to be paid in Euros and shipped to the US?
I would think that some side-to-side movement using your hands would be good for comfort, but not-so-good for performance?
Also, trying to replace a cracked barrel and face for some Schmidt VN's I bought. Best replacement seems to be out of Germany, but I've never bought anything overseas before. What is the best way to pay for parts that need to be paid in Euros and shipped to the US?
#63
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
Posts: 5,676
Received 257 Likes
on
217 Posts
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
PayPal for all my purchases in either Euros or $. CHF with direct bank transfer from my account and for £ I use a £ account I have and make a direct bank transfer.
#64
MBWorld Fanatic!
cleaned my steering wheel with windex.
always thought my steering wheel and horn buttons were extremely worn. turns out that they were just dirty and grimy... gross
after i cleaned the wheel, it all turned to a matte black and looks very very good, huge difference in the interior, wish i would have taken some before pictures.
there is a bit of wear on the left side but it really looks 100% better and sets the interior off in a nice way.
always thought my steering wheel and horn buttons were extremely worn. turns out that they were just dirty and grimy... gross
after i cleaned the wheel, it all turned to a matte black and looks very very good, huge difference in the interior, wish i would have taken some before pictures.
there is a bit of wear on the left side but it really looks 100% better and sets the interior off in a nice way.
#65
Changed sway bar bushings. What a nice difference now. I was hearing a clunk sound when I stopped at a light. Now there is no such sound.
Also changed front brake pads, used the brand Hawk. My old pads where making noise at times. They where pretty worn so glad I changed them. Car feels tight and stops really good.
Also changed front brake pads, used the brand Hawk. My old pads where making noise at times. They where pretty worn so glad I changed them. Car feels tight and stops really good.
#66
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Changed sway bar bushings. What a nice difference now. I was hearing a clunk sound when I stopped at a light. Now there is no such sound.
Also changed front brake pads, used the brand Hawk. My old pads where making noise at times. They where pretty worn so glad I changed them. Car feels tight and stops really good.
Also changed front brake pads, used the brand Hawk. My old pads where making noise at times. They where pretty worn so glad I changed them. Car feels tight and stops really good.
Those are a must and area easy and cheap
They often make a noticeable difference.
I have a pair of new front tires in the trunk, going to get those mounted today
#67
#71
MBWorld Fanatic!
new belt because the last one went boom! saw a red battery indicator on the highway, pulled over to see what it was and sure enough the belt was in shreds. leaky oil cooler. ordering a new unit today.
#72
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
Posts: 5,676
Received 257 Likes
on
217 Posts
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
I suppose you only need the two rubber gaskets for the oil cooler and not the whole unit. Hope you don't have a leak at the pressure inspection cap. A bit more fiddly to do if you have the fan in situ. If you can remove the fan do it.
#73
MBWorld Fanatic!
i think the complete new unit is less work to install. seems very tough to get to the bottom screws opposed to the cooler with filter housing is im guessing a 15 minute job. looks like there is just a nut to remove the filter housing and cooler is only attached to hoses which can be plugged during change
also i had the seals on my oil cooler changed on the 4.3 before the swap at the dealer and even they screwed it up. in guessing those used units need sealant 100% of the time.
#74
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
Posts: 5,676
Received 257 Likes
on
217 Posts
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
i think the complete new unit is less work to install. seems very tough to get to the bottom screws opposed to the cooler with filter housing is im guessing a 15 minute job. looks like there is just a nut to remove the filter housing and cooler is only attached to hoses which can be plugged during change
also i had the seals on my oil cooler changed on the 4.3 before the swap at the dealer and even they screwed it up. in guessing those used units need sealant 100% of the time.
also i had the seals on my oil cooler changed on the 4.3 before the swap at the dealer and even they screwed it up. in guessing those used units need sealant 100% of the time.
Regarding the oil port, there are two types of rubber gaskets, so you need to get the correct one from the dealer. Some gasket sealer is imperative to reduce later oil leaks...
#75
MBWorld Fanatic!
changed the oil cooler. it is in the single digits here today not counting the wind chill factor (yes i did it outside) burrrrrr. easy as pie though. frozen pie that is