Water behind the dashboard sound
My coolant level light came on a couple of days ago. I checked the reservoir and it was near the bottom. I topped off with a 50/50 mix of the yellow stuff. My engine change was last year so a complete coolant job was done at that time. I'm guessing I have a very minor leak somewhere or a bad cap somewhere and I'm evaporating. A quick search on the water sound said it can be coolant related. Any ideas?
you can get woozy and finally poisoned from long term anti freeze inhalation.
in that case you have to fix the problem quick!
remove plastic covers under dash to see if you notice any leaks?
use a flashlight in the dark covers.
don't fogget to check your rugs if they are damp
I sort of found the leak this photo is from underneath. I'm going to a shop in the morning to get an estimate. Also have a nice oil leak in the front.
Checked the oil, nice and black so I don't think it's the head gasket.
My coolant level light came on a couple of days ago. I checked the reservoir and it was near the bottom. I topped off with a 50/50 mix of the yellow stuff. My engine change was last year so a complete coolant job was done at that time. I'm guessing I have a very minor leak somewhere or a bad cap somewhere and I'm evaporating. A quick search on the water sound said it can be coolant related. Any ideas?
Check out this thread (#12&13): https://shoforum.com/index.php?threa...elated.124320/. Considering the leak it could potentially be the heater core, I personally would recommend making sure there are no air pockets in the system.
Best of luck!
Last edited by RPB; Oct 31, 2017 at 10:00 PM.




Take you baby out for a nice drive and on return check water level in the expansion tank when cold. I fill mine to 3/4 full and keep it that way.
Looking at your photo, it could be slight leak at the bottom hose, with oil drops from the engine leak.
Check out my 2017 Spring preparation thread with all the details of my oil leaks hunting and solutions. Oh by the way, my engine had remained bone dry since and after all the summer months

PS If you have done the 55 swap, I was wondering if the extra plug you opened into one of the cylinder heads may be leaking. Have a good check around.
Also, one of the first things that needed changing after I purchased "T-Rex" was a new expansion cap. Indeed the system wouldn't hold pressure and would cough out lots of coolant from the expansion tank overflow pipe. Change for a new cap and it has been perfect since.
PPS I hope you don't have a leak in the heating unit as I believe that means a full out dash removal.
Last edited by DRBC43AMG; Nov 1, 2017 at 09:09 AM.




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turns out its the water-pump. i replaced the water pump last february when i put the new engine in so it should be under warranty
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yeah, i bought it from autohausAZ. spoke to them today, they are sending me a replacement free shipping and i will get the refund when i return the old water pump. sucks right?
looks like i bought the graf which was about $65.
part no 1122001401




"Graf" is good brand, maybe water pump is fine, just need to reseal it..!,,
it happens, due to not good seal or some bolts gets loose..?!?
-;ZAYED;-




taking it back to where i had the engine done to see if i can get a free repair, also i have a small leak from my oil cooler which they did too, so maybe i'll get lucky and they'll just do it all for me




if they confirm to you about that, then don't let them to reuse the exist clamps,
cause reverse tighten or stuck end, will makes the clamp core pots so weak,,
prefer to get new clamps..

-;ZAYED;-




sometimes leaks not only caused from O-rings, main interior water/oil seal goes bad due to age,,
let them remove the cooler & check it well..!
-;ZAYED;-
but i did get him to put that clamp on for me, he used a new one and charged me 1 hour's time that also included a compression test which he said the car passed. i thought 1 hours time was very fair because just for me to drive back to the shop and return home where i had the previous work done would be about $25 in tolls and gas (tolls are expensive in NJ). so it only cost me $40 in my mind (total paid was $65) and probably the old shop would have charged me anyway. so i feel like it was fair since i saved driving time and not risking to dump my fluid on the highway.
he recommended that i change all hoses when i change the oil cooler which is a good idea, so im going to order new hoses top and lower, new clamps, new oil cooler and maybe just do it myself unless i can find someone who will charge me a reasonable price to do everything at once. I'd be willing to pay $300 for the trans service, the oil cooler repair and the hose replacement with me providing all parts. do you guys think that is fair?
i have nowhere to work really. we are looking into getting a house in like 2 months, i may just wait.
Last edited by mickey13; Nov 3, 2017 at 10:05 PM.





PS why do you talk of a new cooler? Is the leak coming from the unit? Doubt it as 99% it's the O rings...
Last edited by DRBC43AMG; Nov 4, 2017 at 03:51 AM.




olive oil will keep rubbers moist and soft for many years ahead.
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Nov 4, 2017 at 08:44 AM.



