mickey13

So I started her up today and sounded like I was at the beach. There is a water splashing sound coming from behind the dashboard.

My coolant level light came on a couple of days ago. I checked the reservoir and it was near the bottom. I topped off with a 50/50 mix of the yellow stuff. My engine change was last year so a complete coolant job was done at that time. I'm guessing I have a very minor leak somewhere or a bad cap somewhere and I'm evaporating. A quick search on the water sound said it can be coolant related. Any ideas?

KJI3jflarryfe93

can you smell any sweet funky odor inside cabin?
you can get woozy and finally poisoned from long term anti freeze inhalation.

in that case you have to fix the problem quick!
remove plastic covers under dash to see if you notice any leaks?
use a flashlight in the dark covers.
don't fogget to check your rugs if they are damp

mickey13

I sort of found the leak this photo is from underneath. I'm going to a shop in the morning to get an estimate. Also have a nice oil leak in the front.
Checked the oil, nice and black so I don't think it's the head gasket.

RPB

The problem is usually a symptom of air pockets in the coolant. I experienced this on my C36 and 124 500e. Start the car when the engine is cool (on incline if possible) and set the heater to the highest temp and remove the coolant resovoir cap. Let the car reach full operating temp and install coolant cap. Let it run for a min or two after this procedure. It could be trapped water and would recommend checking the drainage in that area. I’m not sure about the leak, but worth getting checked out.

Check out this thread (#12&13): https://shoforum.com/index.php?threa...elated.124320/. Considering the leak it could potentially be the heater core, I personally would recommend making sure there are no air pockets in the system.

Best of luck!

DRBC43AMG

I would agree with what had been said. Sounds like air pockets in the system. Remove expansion tank cap, open heating to max setting and get the engine up to operating temp. Shut down engine, replace pressure cap. Let everything cool overnight and top up coolant level with 50/50 mixture. I use distilled water only. OK the water in my area is very hard, but distilled water is the best even in normal water conditions IMO.
Take you baby out for a nice drive and on return check water level in the expansion tank when cold. I fill mine to 3/4 full and keep it that way.
Looking at your photo, it could be slight leak at the bottom hose, with oil drops from the engine leak.
Check out my 2017 Spring preparation thread with all the details of my oil leaks hunting and solutions. Oh by the way, my engine had remained bone dry since and after all the summer months

PS If you have done the 55 swap, I was wondering if the extra plug you opened into one of the cylinder heads may be leaking. Have a good check around.
Also, one of the first things that needed changing after I purchased "T-Rex" was a new expansion cap. Indeed the system wouldn't hold pressure and would cough out lots of coolant from the expansion tank overflow pipe. Change for a new cap and it has been perfect since.

PPS I hope you don't have a leak in the heating unit as I believe that means a full out dash removal.

cm60k

Excellent & agree with you Daniel..

-;ZAYED;-

PJmak

You are going to a shop for a loose hose clamp?

mickey13

lol, i just wanted to get an opinion on what the issue is. I looked and did not see any loose clamps, was hoping for someone to say "hey you jerk, its a loose clamp!"

LOL

turns out its the water-pump. i replaced the water pump last february when i put the new engine in so it should be under warranty

mickey13

PJmak

So water pump only lasted for less than a year?

mickey13

yeah, i bought it from autohausAZ. spoke to them today, they are sending me a replacement free shipping and i will get the refund when i return the old water pump. sucks right?

looks like i bought the graf which was about $65.
part no 1122001401

cm60k

That's weird..!,

"Graf" is good brand, maybe water pump is fine, just need to reseal it..!,,

it happens, due to not good seal or some bolts gets loose..?!?

-;ZAYED;-

mickey13

is it possible it just needs to be torqued down to spec?

KJI3jflarryfe93

MB sells remanufactured water pumps, are they as good as new pumps at almost half the cost?

DRBC43AMG

Yes I installed one in the spring. You don't see any difference between the two

mickey13

took it to a second shop for another opinion and they said its a loose hose, bad clamp needs to be re-positioned LOL
taking it back to where i had the engine done to see if i can get a free repair, also i have a small leak from my oil cooler which they did too, so maybe i'll get lucky and they'll just do it all for me

cm60k

Ahh i see,

if they confirm to you about that, then don't let them to reuse the exist clamps,

cause reverse tighten or stuck end, will makes the clamp core pots so weak,,

prefer to get new clamps..

-;ZAYED;-

cm60k

be careful about that cooler,

sometimes leaks not only caused from O-rings, main interior water/oil seal goes bad due to age,,

let them remove the cooler & check it well..!

-;ZAYED;-

DRBC43AMG

Agree!

mickey13

(went to a new shop today) [called the old shop and it was a hassle to make it in by the time they closed and wouldnt be able to head there until monday] new shop is going to quote me a price on the new cooler (without checking the old cooler...) but i already think he is too expensive. i asked for transmission service with me supplying all parts and oil and he came at me with $280 (more than 4 hours shop time) that's the first red flag for me. so im scared to to see what he wants on the oil cooler.

but i did get him to put that clamp on for me, he used a new one and charged me 1 hour's time that also included a compression test which he said the car passed. i thought 1 hours time was very fair because just for me to drive back to the shop and return home where i had the previous work done would be about $25 in tolls and gas (tolls are expensive in NJ). so it only cost me $40 in my mind (total paid was $65) and probably the old shop would have charged me anyway. so i feel like it was fair since i saved driving time and not risking to dump my fluid on the highway.

he recommended that i change all hoses when i change the oil cooler which is a good idea, so im going to order new hoses top and lower, new clamps, new oil cooler and maybe just do it myself unless i can find someone who will charge me a reasonable price to do everything at once. I'd be willing to pay $300 for the trans service, the oil cooler repair and the hose replacement with me providing all parts. do you guys think that is fair?

i have nowhere to work really. we are looking into getting a house in like 2 months, i may just wait.

DRBC43AMG

If you have no place to work under cover or inside, I would certainly wait. If the water leak is fixed with the new clamp, that's you first priority. The oil cooler O rings can wait, not unless they let go rapidly in which case you risk loosing your oil fast. Just try not to thrash your bride during this period. And keep a close eye on things under the hood
PS why do you talk of a new cooler? Is the leak coming from the unit? Doubt it as 99% it's the O rings...

KJI3jflarryfe93

rubber hoes are armored to resist heat but not bulletproof.
hoes should last for many years in hot or cold climate.

DRBC43AMG

Yeah, I rub the hoses with baby talc powder several times a year. They remain soft and smell great.
Just kidding.....

KJI3jflarryfe93

better try extra vergine olive öl.
olive oil will keep rubbers moist and soft for many years ahead.

mickey13

lol, i think the issue with the hoses is that they are covered in oil (from the cooler leak) and will breakdown eventually because of that. am i wrong?