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Received the harness yesterday. Overall it was pretty nice but took a few minutes to figure everything out. First thing is that using the Burmester wiring guide the colors noted on the wiring diagram do not match the colors on the harness. I simply matched up the position numbers noted on the wiring guide and used that as my guide. Second thing is that the harness has a few breakout connectors that just aren’t needed so I had to modify it slightly and focus on cutting and soldering extensions on only the speakers that I intend to run to the DSP. It took me a few hours to number splice and solder everything but finally got it done. Also I think underestimated how long to make the leads i soldered on so those wishing to do this don’t skimp on the wire length. Overall it turned out pretty good. I’ll figure out how to mount the Helix amp to the back of the factory Burmester amp rack today and then completely the battery and power wiring for the Helix amp and my JL Audio amp that will power the subs.
also received harness and test fit. it clicks and fits right in. awesome find!!! will make going back to stock much easier and i fell better about not cutting stock wires!!
I see this note listed in many amp manuals (ones with optical in), not sure if anyone considering messing with the burmester center channel and surrounds should be concerned.
OPTICAL IN.
The AMP accepts at its input PCM signals up to 96 kHz / 24 bit sampling frequency rate. So DOLBY DIGITAL (AC3)
multi-channel signals coming from audio/video sources (such as the audio of a film in DVD) or DTS can not be
reproduced.
Are you guys running inline fuses from the power distribution block (in the trunk) to your AMP and SUB? If so what type? Inline AGU? My JL Audio ACP208LG-W3v3 sub and Audison AP8.9 AMP both use 30 amp fuses onboard. Are extra inline fuses necessary?
I don’t think those extra in line fuses are doing anything. The in line fuse is supposed to be close to the battery.
Since I’m running a 750 watt JL Audio amp for the two 10” subs and the Helix DSP I used a 0 gauge wire from the battery and 200 amp in line fuse. The output of this fuse is a short wire going into a terminal block that splits off and feeds each amp. The terminal block has two 60 amp fuses in it. I was thinking that the main fuse probably isn’t required but feel like the main fuse is protecting the battery and the inividual fuses are protecting the amps in case of a short or failure.
I think someone asked where the rear factory ground is in the C63 is. See attached.
I see this note listed in many amp manuals (ones with optical in), not sure if anyone considering messing with the burmester center channel and surrounds should be concerned.
OPTICAL IN.
The AMP accepts at its input PCM signals up to 96 kHz / 24 bit sampling frequency rate. So DOLBY DIGITAL (AC3)
multi-channel signals coming from audio/video sources (such as the audio of a film in DVD) or DTS can not be
reproduced.
yea if you are planning to run all through the aftermarket stuff could be an issue for those with DVD. But for anyone with audio 20 it doesnt really matter. if your source isnt DOlby etc, all it will do is simulate surround. Your system is only as good as its weakest link.
Just leave center and rear fill channels on stock amp to retain all of the dolby and dts processing.
I don’t think those extra in line fuses are doing anything. The in line fuse is supposed to be close to the battery.
Since I’m running a 750 watt JL Audio amp for the two 10” subs and the Helix DSP I used a 0 gauge wire from the battery and 200 amp in line fuse. The output of this fuse is a short wire going into a terminal block that splits off and feeds each amp. The terminal block has two 60 amp fuses in it. I was thinking that the main fuse probably isn’t required but feel like the main fuse is protecting the battery and the inividual fuses are protecting the amps in case of a short or failure.
I think someone asked where the rear factory ground is in the C63 is. See attached.
thanks for the pic. I have this bolt in my car. i will most likely ground there.
Also the inline fuses are really over kill as you mentioned. if amps have fuse, and your main run to back has fuses, all of the wires are pretty much protected. and if your car gets hit hard enough to mess the wires up and cause a short, the car will most likely be totaled anyway. It cant hurt but if those wires from distro block to amps are run safe, it should be fine.
Does anybody know if is there any digital output from the C43 Burmester amplifier? I am wondering if this fantastic job Mike did can be done keeping all 5.1 digital signals from dts or Dolby sources. In this case signals could be driven directly to the DSP.
Does anybody know if is there any digital output from the C43 Burmester amplifier? I am wondering if this fantastic job Mike did can be done keeping all 5.1 digital signals from dts or Dolby sources. In this case signals could be driven directly to the DSP.
there would not be a digital output from the amplifier as this is the last piece to the sound stage before the speakers.
an option you could try would be to buy the audison Bit DMI and see if that works with our MOST optic network. that would yield you the full signal in theory if it can process it.
I am so mad I made the mistake of ordering $1000 worth of JL Sub and JL Fix 82 from SonicElectronix on 6/9. Nothing has shipped and customer service doesn't answer the phone (voicemail?) or email. WTF? I knew I should've used another seller. STAY AWAY.
I posted the following on Mike’s Wordpress blog with no response. Looking for some feedback from the folks here. Thanks!
I just installed a Helix V Eight DSP Amp and JL Audio monoblock amp with dual 10” subs in our W205 C63. It was very tight to fit everything in with the battery being in the trunk. My question to you is how did you get your dual 8’s to stay secure against the back seat and floor? I’m having a hard time figuring this one out since the floor is curved right behind the seats. My second question is did you have any trouble fitting the passenger side interior quarter panel trim back on? I installed my DSP amp on the backside of the Burmester amp rack like you did and am having a tricky time getting the little press fit piece under the interior trunk light to fit back on. With the amp there it changes the shape of that corner a little bit.
I posted the following on Mike’s Wordpress blog with no response. Looking for some feedback from the folks here. Thanks!
I just installed a Helix V Eight DSP Amp and JL Audio monoblock amp with dual 10” subs in our W205 C63. It was very tight to fit everything in with the battery being in the trunk. My question to you is how did you get your dual 8’s to stay secure against the back seat and floor? I’m having a hard time figuring this one out since the floor is curved right behind the seats. My second question is did you have any trouble fitting the passenger side interior quarter panel trim back on? I installed my DSP amp on the backside of the Burmester amp rack like you did and am having a tricky time getting the little press fit piece under the interior trunk light to fit back on. With the amp there it changes the shape of that corner a little bit.
Any ideas or insight would be helpful!! Thanks!!
I was going to try these when my JL audio sub arrives. (Or straps)
Multipurpose Cargo Organizer Blocks Car Trunk Storage Organizer Blocks.
I was going to try these when my jl audio sub arrives. (Or straps)
Multipurpose Cargo Organizer Blocks Car Trunk Storage Organizer Blocks.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVPWSXM/
Great idea! Thank you! I like the non permanent easy to use nature of use of these. I’ve always seen these but never tried them. I’ll give them a shot unless anyone has a better idea.
Great idea! Thank you! I like the non permanent easy to use nature of use of these. I’ve always seen these but never tried them. I’ll give them a shot unless anyone has a better idea.
I actually meant what size wire did you use from the AMP to speaker wires? I guess 16 gauge or ?
12-16 awg is plenty depending on power. You can never have too big of wire. I always just used 12 gauge for subs cause i usually ran more power to them. it cant hurt and its not much more expensive or a hassle to run.
I use 16 AWG for upper mids and tweets. will be running 100 RMS to each speaker 20ft runs
12 AWG for woofer, up to 350 RMS each speaker 20ft runs
12 AWG for subwoofer. 500-1500 rms for sinlge 10" sub.
ALSO if anyone needs a hookup on audio gear specifically Digital Designs, I can help you out. I used to be pretty big into the audio scene and made some relationships...
if you have nothing else to do, this is my youtube channel, some of my younger days are there. My old w202 c class had a pretty loud system haha.
Also i would really recommend staying with digital designs, ARC Audio, alpine, rockford fosgate, audison, Hertz, Focal. There are higher end brands even but those companies i have found to produce exellent products for the money. Audison (for mids and Highs with ARC amps)and Digital Designs (for subwoofer and sub amp) have been my favorite.
Standing up with the speakers facing the rear. I’m still trying to find a good way to keep them standing up. If you look in the trunk behind the rear seats the floor is angled making it difficult to stand anything up flush against the back of the seats without falling down. I ordered those blocks from Amazon in the link above and received them today. They stickiness to the carpet is not strong enough. Back to the drawing board...
Standing up with the speakers facing the rear. I’m still trying to find a good way to keep them standing up. If you look in the trunk behind the rear seats the floor is angled making it difficult to stand anything up flush against the back of the seats without falling down. I ordered those blocks from Amazon in the link above and received them today. They stickiness to the carpet is not strong enough. Back to the drawing board...
Sorry to hear that. The trunk also has 4 built in hooks. Straps maybe? have you tried laying the sub flat? Pointing up.
Sorry to hear that. The trunk also has 4 built in hooks. Straps maybe? have you tried laying the sub flat? Pointing up.
Tried laying the sub flat as a test and didn't like the result. The subs take up too much trunk space like that, and it rattles the tray rear seat tray too much. I could dynomat it, but still not happy with laying them flat. The whole reason I got the JL Audio subs I bought was to retain as much trunk space as possible and still have 2 10's.
My plan was to originally use velcro extreme or 3m dual lock to secure the subwoofers to the back of the rear seats and to the trunk floor. This didn't work out well, so I came up with a new idea. Wedge foam in between the top of the subwoofer box(s) and the trunk upper tray. Worked perfectly!! The subs are now very secure and won't move without a lot of force. I took my two 10" JL Audio CS110-TW1's and screwed them together to make essentially one dual 10" box. They sound great in this vehicle especially with the Helix DSP.
Here are some pics of the install. The little bit of foam underneath isn't doing anything special to secure the box so I'll remove it. Also haven't had a chance to fully clean the trunk.
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I made the mistake of ordering $1000 worth of JL Sub and JL Fix 82 from SonicElectronix on 6/9. Nothing has shipped and customer service doesn't answer the phone (voicemail?) or email. WTF? I knew I should've used another seller. 
