Thanks to the super informative posts and blog by Mike5215, I've decided to embark on the Great Burmester Upgrade of 2017 (maybe into 2018). Before writing anything else, I wanted to give accolades where they belong and that lies solely with Mike all the contributors that have come before me. Please see Mike's outstanding write up here. Years (decades) ago, I installed some rather large car systems in a few of my cars. As a recent purchaser of the 2017 C43, I loved everything about the car when I drove off with it. Then I noticed the rattles everyone seems to talk about (slowly getting those addressed). Next, I realized the sound system sounded...well...not nearly as good as the car looked. As others have pointed out, there is a lack of bass from the front firing "woofers" and the system has about 1 MILLion (exactly) mid-range 4" drivers. I also am super irritated when I try and run it at higher volume levels everything goes to hell and the bass even drops out. There appears to be no way to control the sound and that's where the help of others have inspired me to once again pick up my crimping tool and correct these deficiencies.

I will post progress as things develop. For the most part, I will be following Mike's guide. I am on the fence about the JL Audio 8's though. I THINK I want a pair of 10's, but we'll see. I don't need any trunk space so that's not a factor. I'll also add some pics of things that I was unsure about from the online instructions I found, in case it helps the next person. Anywho....on with it.

Some pictures of interior removal and other stuff.

Removing the rear trunk liner from bottom and right side of the car. I used tool to remove the plastic pins that mostly hold the liner in. Helped a bunch. This is what it looks like once they are removed.




This little clip is interesting. Use a couple flat head screw drivers to gently pry each side up and then pull the pin out. The clip will then come straight out with a little convincing.



Anyone know the part number/where to find the little upholstery pins? I was careful but one broke.


Some shots of the battery area for fun (and the engine--who can forget about that?). There is a filter above the battery that just comes out with a little messaging. I wanted to get a feel from the battery post connections on what size diameter connector I will need for attaching the power cable.




I placed my order today for the MUST HAVE pieces of the upgrade (Audison AP 8.9 bit at eBay and the JL Audio Fix 82 also on eBay). Found some good prices on eBay and am awaiting their arrival. Really sucks to have to get the Fix 82, but from what Mike has said, it's the right way to go.

While there are a bunch of little pieces to get overall, I am contemplating the the sub build out as follows.

I do like the JL Audio dual 8's Mike put in, but am really on the fence. They are pricey and I'm not sure the 8's are enough for my needs (still, I will happily pay for them if they are "that" good). I don't need so much bass that it's all you can hear, but I do want to know I have it and can feel it pretty strongly. Still open to thoughts here, as I've yet to drop the cash and make a purchase for the subwoofer setup.

 

One other thing. Mike (anyone) know if this bundle is where you tap into the high side off the factory amp? I have Mike's wiring diagram he posted on his blog, but wanted to know exactly where the wires were severed to run into the Fix 82. Also, what gauge is the factory speaker wire? 16 gauge?

 

Another question (thus why I started this thread...). I am assuming anyone who has done this routed their power down the passenger side (same side battery is on). Can anyone confirm this? What gauge power wire did you run? Also, where was the power cable routed? How about upholstery removal? Any tips? Thanks!

 

The gauge wire depends on how much power you are running. Also make sure to get high quality OFC wiring, not cheap cca or cheap wire that states its size based on insulation diameter. Rule of thumb that I stick to is for approx a 15-20ft run (ie front to back of car) i would run a 4 gauge for anything 100A and under and 1/0 AWG for anything 150A and over. If you are not running a huge sub amp, then stick with a true OFC 4 gauge.

Also condsider doing the big 3 if you plan to get crazy. The JL fix 82 and audison bit ap shouldnt draw much current but if you plan to put in a sub amp of 500 watts or less id run a 4 awg ofc run. Knuknoceptz has awesome tinned OFC wire that is true to its size. I wouldnt bother putting in anything from local stereo shops unless they specialize in custom installs and have proper wire. but stay away from abc warehouse, bestbuys and mickey shores of the world. car tunes if you have any are pretty good they use JL audio wire and it is good. But if this is a DIY, look at knukoncepts for all wiring needs.


invest in a good set of trim removal tools. I got some from harbor freight and they work great! They will save you money in long run from breaking components. also, depending where you live, DO NOT TRY TO INSTALL IN THEW COLD, you will break panels as plastic gets brittle when its cold.

and run the wire along bottom wire panels on right side of car.

My youtube channel for reference and resume Back in the day we did some crazy things in the w202 benz lol.
https://www.youtube.com/user/ibump4life

 

This is very exciting I am interested to see how this turns out. I noticed you opted not to go with the Focal 4" components in the front doors like Mike did. I am planning on going the same route as you but will put Dynamat in the doors and Focal 4" components up front. I just want an even bass experience that does not over power the music- so I think that slim JL with the 8's would do the trick.

If it were me and I was looking for some serious bass, I would drop in a pair of Kicker Solo baric square subs, probably two 10's with a 500 watt kicker amp. Had this set up before and it shook my brain nicely.

 

HAHA! I opted to just keep the factory speakers for now. I can always go back and pluck them for something better. Based on the input from Mike, it sounds like the Fix82 and Audison will do wonders. I also wound up ordering an inexpensive sub setup (please don't laugh--conserving some cash during the holidays... and have kids to feed). I went with the and the . The subs got really good reviews and were more cost effective. I think I really wanted 10's all along. The Fosgate amp was also very economical and included the remote gain control with it. Had I gone the JL Audio route with 8's and their 500 watt amp, it would added over $300 to the final bill. As it stands, I am at about $1,500 for all equipment (Fix82, Audison, cabling/connectors/distribution/fuzes, subs, sub amp, some interior removal tools, and new slippers for my wife to compensate for all this). I am hopeful to get my power ran Friday. Anyone with insight into routing and interior removal will be SUPER appreciated!

 

Work progressing. I've received most of the equipment I ordered (will get Fix 82 Monday, along with some other wiring do-dads). Was able to complete the running of my 1/0 gauge power cable. It was not terribly hard, but took a significant amount of time. In the end, I am pretty happy how it turned out, as I didn't break anything and everything looks as it did prior. I have yet to terminate the cable in the engine bay (inline fuse and ring terminal) and trunk (distribution block). Will probably complete the engine bay wiring today and just not hook it up yet. Oh, I also received my Rockford Fosgate P1-2X10 10-Inch Dual Subwoofer Enclosure. Came in a nice large box--they look awesome. I verified I can actually get the box in the trunk--success! Anywho...Enjoy!



Nice look at the cross section/cabling in the InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Complete Amp Kit. I like this wire, but it certainly is big. Was a challenge to get through the channels on the passenger side of the car. Used a hanger to get it through some tight areas. The 17' of cable is JUST enough.



More junk from the amp kit. Terminals fit battery.



I yanked the battery to find a good location to run the power cable through the firewall. This large boot was the best I could find and worked well. There are two little holes you can stick a pick through to expand to allow for the cable to go through. I used a razor to expand that a little. Worked perfectly. I'll throw some split loom on it when all is said and done.



In cab view of the rubber boot and where the cable enters the cabin.



Cable routing down the passenger side of the cabin.



Cable through to back seat. Was a pain through here and I used a hanger/duct tape to pull the cable through some tight areas.



More cable routing near the back seat. I put the cable through most all the existing plastic holders where wire was already ran.



Power cable entering the trunk.


Another shot of the power cable entering the trunk.



Measurements of the stud I plan to use for grounding everything.



Audison arrived! Pretty slick!







Fosgate amp

 

Finished terminating the power cable in the engine bay. Also did some fiddling in the trunk to start getting things together. I located all the wiring necessary as well. Pictures below--took some time, but I'm feeling very confident how things are coming together. I am unable to locate a place to mount the Fosgate amplifier, unfortunately. I will probably toss it on the back of my subwoofer box. I think the Fix82 will fit fine on the plastic brackets where the XM piece is at, but that thing doesn't come until Monday (along with my power distribution block and speaker cable). Done for the day--waiting for all my shrink tubing arriving tonight. Will begin cutting cables and hooking up Audison tomorrow.



Finishing up the cabling in the engine compartment. Added split loom and inline 150 Amp ANL fuse.




Pulled amp and checked out wiring. You can take off the cover and see where each wire is located. This is important, as there are some pairs that are the same color as the ones you need to splice into. The order they are in the harness is important! Simply use your fingers to pinch the bottom ends of the connector (as you are looking at the photo) and lift off. There are two pieces of plastic on the other side by where all the wires run out--just slide out.


Amp and bracket removed.


Another factory amp shot (back side).


And another (back side).



Factory amp removed from bracket.


Holes drilled for Audison. You'll need to saw off the top single post, as it will interfere with the harness for the Audison high level inputs and other important things. I am using a TOSLINK cable, but still need the harness for remote amp turn on leads. I realized this AFTER putting it all together. Don't be me...



Circled in red is the post that you need to cut off BEFORE mounting the whole thing. DOH!

 

nice work so far. this is making me more and more eager to go through and put a stereo in mine. once the funds are right next summer i think i may go for it.

the wire should work for the power level you are running. but keep in mind that it is not a true 1/0
on a side note, not trying to knock your wire choice, but that is the exact kind of wire to stay away from. please look at below pictures. its not a true "0 gauge" they keep insulation diameter big to make it feel bigger than the wire actually is. remember the copper (at least we hope they use copper) is the conductor to transfer the electrical power. i highly recommend knukonceptz, rockford fosgate, or JL audio wiring to ensure you are getting legit sized cable and also good copper that is not alloyed with crap.



knukonceptz in the middle. a true 4 gauge wire vs the other guys. notice the od are around the same but the inner conductor size is much different.

 

Yeah, I know you had recommended that earlier, but I had already ordered the wiring. Plus, I got a little excited and wanted to get that run made--was a huge step in project kick off! It does seem to be pretty large wire, as it BARELY fits in the 0/1 gauge terminals and power distribution block. So, I'm optimistic I will be safe with the Fix82, Audison, and one RF 500W RMS amp. I think you'll have a great time putting a system in this car--I've really enjoyed it thus far. Would not have started without the great write up by Mike though. Had the wiring diagram and everything I needed to be successful.

 

Yes, so are you powering all of your speakers with the Audison? In Mike's write up he kept the stock amp to power just the mids and used the Audison to power the fronts & rear door and bi-wired to power each 6" sub in the foot well? It seems you are running all speakers off of the Audison, which defeats the purpose of hitting both 6" front subs with twice the power thus adding bass.

I say this because I saw you remove the stock amp.

Is your goal just to change the amp, remove factory equalization and add subs? No upgraded door speakers or Dynamat?

I like your progress thus far though

 

I am an Audiophile, car stereo and home theater freak with 20yrs of experience in this hobby. That is an outstanding example of how cable companies can screw someone. Great Post sir!!!

 

I am doing the exact same Audison config as Mike. Front doors with 35W RMS (channels 1 and 2), left footwell woofer bridged 70 RMS (4 ohm) (channels 3 + and 4 -), right footwell woofer bridged 70 RMS (4 ohm) (channels 5 + and 6 -), rear doors with 35W RMS (channels 7 and 8). Totla of 8 channels used on Audison and the 9th channle for subwoofer will be RCA cabled to the Rockford Fosgate amp. Center and Rear deck/surround speakers remain on factory amp. I showed the amp removed just to show how it all came apart and my mounting of the Audison. I REALLY contemplated getting another 4-channel amp and high level wiring it from the Audison for for a different solution so everything goes through the Audison, but like Mike noted, I'm not sure if it will make a huge difference. If I still don't like it, I will add that--should be cheap and easy at that point. My goal is to add the DSP and some decent subs. I REALLY hate how the 6 inch subs just stop after you turn it up X amount. My 535i had great bass and didn't need any changes in my mind, but the Burmester system just lacks. I think the mids are way tinny and am hoping this will address that; I am not changing any factory speakers at this point though. Thanks for the note on progress. I get my Fix82 today and that's the last piece I've been waiting for. Took Thursday off to finish installing everything, so we'll see!!!

 

Ah yes my bad, I overlooked you mounting the Audison to the back of the factory bracket with the factory amp still installed.

I plan on doing the same thing in the spring with the addition of the Focal 4" speakers in the drivers doors with dynamat in both front/rear doors- it will also make the cabin quieter. For $500 for the Focals in the front it would be worth it to me.

I agree about the Burmester system, the problem I have with mine though, is that it will distort a bit at high volumes and it does lack bass. I will say that it is better than the average person would require in a stereo and a bargain at $850 extra. I agree with other that source is a very critical component- the Burmester upgrade sounds especially good with HD radio stations.

Very excited to see the progression of your system install and how great it will sound when finished!!!

 

Any updates on this thread?

 

Well, the system went in yesterday--overall, I'm pretty happy, but there are somethings to address still. Pictures below. I have not taken pictures of the sub box I put in yet either. Main problems I have presently are:

• Took me a few to determine why I had no power kin my trunk from teh power cable to the battery I ran. I used a ring connector to hook to a bolt/screw on the battery--only it did not have juice! Go figure. I quickly found another one and was back in business.
• Have not been able to locate a switched 12 volt wire and am hesitant to go poking around. Anyone with suggestions, please let me know. I have the Fix82 on signal sensing (with switched 12V hooked up to power distribution block). This allows the Fix82 to power on when it senses signal and then turn off when there is no signal--about a minute later. While it works, there is a delay of about 10 seconds from when the center and rear surrounds come on--plus there is the same delay if you switch sources and are trying to figure out what to play--i.e. there is no signal present so the Fix82 turns off again. I have the Fix82 as the lead device for remote turn on for the Audison and my sub amp. I need to find a true switched 12V and solve this.
• Fix82 took a couple of tries to get worked out--note to self, read the instructions better the first time...
• BIGGEST problem is the stupid in car exhaust audio stuff. I have a C43 and it would appear that the MB makers saw fit to "enhance" the audio by piping into the car speakers exhaust "music." So if you're in any sport mode, the exhaust sounds become more present in the speakers. Only problem is now with the new stuff, it's is hugely loud crackling in my speakers. Even if I have the volume ALL the way down. If in C or E modes, you don't hear it because the exhaust notes are tamed, supposedly. There is a wire in the factory amp's harness called Engine Sound Control Unit. I need to figure out how to disable that thing, assuming that's what's causing this. Mike mentioned someone named Konister who might have insight into this.
• Tuning still seems a bit out of whack so I am working with it to figure out how I want it. Mike's tune was a great place to start. I still get decent sound, but need to review his latest posts and do some reading to get it where I'd like it. The control of the Audison is very cool.
• There is a small corner that comers out of the right side fender carpeting in the trunk. It's right by the right rear trunk light. The carpet piece doesn't fit with the Audison where it's at.I'll probably grind off about 4-5 inches of the Audison to make it fit. And...just kidding. Need to figure out how to address this.
• For nerd reference:
  • Factory amp high level out to Fix82
    • LF to Channel 1
    • RF to Channel 2
    • LR to Channel 3
    • RR to Channel 4
    • LF Sub to Channel 5
    • RF Sub to Channel 6
  • From Audison to Factory Speakers (did this like Mike)
    • Out 1 to LF
    • Out 2 to RF
    • Out 3 (+) Bridged to LF Sub (+)
    • Out 4 (-) Bridged to LF Sub (-)
    • Out 5 (+) Bridged to RF Rub (+)
    • Out 6 (-) Bridged to RF Sub (-)
    • Out 7 to LR
    • Out 8 to RR
    • Pre-amp out 9 to Rockford Fosgate amp and 10" sub box

I'm out for about a week so perhaps the week of the 9th will be picture and install updates.


Factory XM box holder. Have to remove this tab to fit the Fix82 where I'm putting it.


Fix82 mounted.


Bottom.


Profile.


And more...


Complete thing with distribution block mounted.




Partially wired up in the car.




OMG--wires cut!






Pretty much complete.

 

First off that is some fine work you did there.

I was wondering if you tried to configure the Audison with your laptop, in reference to frequency range and equalization? I saw in Mark's write up that he did provide a downloadable file with his configuration.

Equalization makes a huge difference, especially in a car with that many speakers.

 

Thanks, Lazz83! Work in progress for sure. I used the exact config downloaded from Mike's site for the Audison. I believe once I have made my personal tweaks, I will be plenty happy. First order of business is solving the horrible noise in the speakers in sport/sport+ mode. Also, finding a switched 12V. Then the config. Not 100% on the 10" subs either. We'll see. More next weekend.

 

JL Audio 10W3's are excellent subs,I love JL and believe they are some of the best subs made, along with Kicker of course. If you never tired kicker you should and check out their build quality especially in the Solobaric line. Two Square 8" Kicker Solobaric in a sealed box

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kicker-S8L7-4-8-900-Watt-Solo-Baric-L7-Car-Subwoofer-11S8L7-4-11S8L74-SoloBaric/352104545945?epid=1600263430&hash=item51fb10fe99:g :5TgAAOSwvjdZQQaa&vxp=mtr

Do you plan on putting in a small Farad cap? Maybe 0.5 to helps those two amps with punch, it might be worthwhile and doesn't cost much.

One last thing, did the Audison up the volume from the stock system? Is the sound significantly cleaner and more powerful?

 

I actually just ordered the JL Audio MicroSub+ ACP208LG-W3v3 from SonicElectronix (flash sale and got the whole thing for a tad over $600). I really didn't care for the 10's in the car. I have a feeling I am more like Mike (no pun) in that I really want tight, good hitting bass, not boomy or over-loud. So, I will just put in the fully loaded, amp'ed 8's and see how she goes. I've heard nothing but positive things about the JL Audio line. I had not planned on putting in any sort of capacitor. Haven't seen the need yet, but will if I do! As for the volume, I don't have it fully tuned so I can't state the Audison has solved world hunger, or anything like that quite yet. The Audison has level controls in the software so you can fine tune all the speakers, but I didn't really notice any huge volume level change when scrolling the volume wheel. Of course, now I'm thinking about replacing the door speakers--super cheap habit this car stuff is...I'm confident I will be happy (better, for all the money spent) once I work out the kinks and tuning. I did buy a piggy-back fuse thingy to get me the 12V switched I need to control the turn on the way I want. Seems safer than poking wires to find one and then tapping it. Didn't want to poke the wrong area and have her yell at me Still need to figure out how to disable the speaker delivered engine enhancement crap. That's a deal breaker right now, as you can't put the car in any Sport mode without the muffler sounds BLARING through the speakers.

 

To be really honest, the fact you can now really enjoy the sound of the engine means you can save on getting more music... at least I would...

 

Wow I didn't know that the exhaust note came through the speakers, I will have to check this out- thanks for the tip and good luck with the rest of the install, looking great so far.

 

Are you sure that it is a reality that MB pumps exhaust sounds through the speakers in the C43? I ran several tests on my car in all modes and was not able to get the sound to come through my speakers. I have the regular stock exhaust, not the AMG performance exhaust.

I have also not heard anyone else mention that the exhaust note comes through the factory speakers, where did you hear this?

 

Fairly confident. In C mode, you don't really hear it unless you stomp on the gas, and even then, it's only a little bit of excess noise. If you have it in sport or sport+ mode, it's ridiculously loud. I can turn the stereo volume ALL the way down and the engine/exhaust noise is still present in the speakers and makes a horrible noise. Regardless, I have some double checking of wiring to do this weekend and will be hooking up the Fix82 to 12V switched. I will hopefully have more to report after that effort.

 

SUCCESS! This morning I did a few things that has made the system sound like it was supposed to after all this. What I did was address the 12V switched/ACC power issue and set the Fix82 to utilize am "add a circuit" connection in the fuse box--there was already a slot that was usable and it works perfectly for switching on all components when the car starts. That photo is listed below for your reference. Next up was addressing the ridiculous in car engine sounds. I did take the car for a spin without any aftermarket speakers hooked up (only center channel and rear deck speakers were hooked up). NO ENGINE NOISE present so I knew it was coming from something messed up with the Fix82/Audison amplification. Turns out the issue was one of two things. Either a firmware update to the Fix82 that I performed, or the re-calibration I did after updating the firmware. I updated the Fix82 firmware to the latest and then factory reset it (per the instructions here: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/236090448). This allows the Fix82 to work with the Tune software from JL Audio (kind of nerdy cool). Once I had that nailed and reset to factory defaults, I used the Tune software to calibrate. This did not work the first time, so I did it again and got all lights to go solid green (and Tune software reported a successful calibration). After taking for a test drive, there was no obnoxious noise! It was sounding just like it was supposed to. The Fix82 also corrected the poor'ish sound quality coming from the newly amplified speakers. I made some tweaks to Mike's original tune to reduce the volume of the front right door speakers to where I liked it. I also adjusted some of the cross over frequencies to my liking--sounding very good now! Pictures below. Outside some small tweaks here and there, I think I'm done! Oh, also just left the original subs and amp I put in. They sound perfect now too and a lot less money. I don't care any about trunk space, as it's not a factor for me ever.


Add a fuse thing. I hooked up the Fix82 remote cable to this and now it turns off an on with the car's ACC (vice signal turn on/turn off, which I didn't like). It's the red cable to the upper left of the Fix82. I used the first available slot next to what was already there.


The subs. Nothing fancy.