Brake Pad DIY notes
#52
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Location: Delaware
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2016 C450 AMG
Actually, as noted in the first post, my Rear OEM pads were not made in Czech Republic, but Italy, so I wouldn't expect the Czech stamp on them, like the fronts.
EDIT: The stamping on the pads @bhcubed has looks correct so I went back and looked.. I pulled the ones that came off the car that I purchased from the dealer, and the one I took a picture of didn't have the Ate marking, so I initially assumed wasn't there. However, with the writing faded or missing, I checked the others and 2 of them do show evidence of the Ate marking, so I believe what is shown is the real thing.
Here is an updated picture of what I took off last time, and you can make out some of the Ate.
EDIT: The stamping on the pads @bhcubed has looks correct so I went back and looked.. I pulled the ones that came off the car that I purchased from the dealer, and the one I took a picture of didn't have the Ate marking, so I initially assumed wasn't there. However, with the writing faded or missing, I checked the others and 2 of them do show evidence of the Ate marking, so I believe what is shown is the real thing.
Here is an updated picture of what I took off last time, and you can make out some of the Ate.
#54
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#55
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2016 C450 AMG
Yea, it was a T45. Although, it did seem to chew up the bolt a bit though. Also, you don't really need to remove the bolt holding the sensor on. If you unplug the sensor, and the caliper, that gives you enough clearance to get the caliper out and to compress it. I found it a bit easier to connect and disconnect the sensor with it bolted on. Much easier to lift the little clip that holds it in. Trying to hold it in your hand and pull the clip up was a bit challenging. Lol. Thanks for the write up and follow up answers
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jonathan358 (01-13-2021)
#57
Member
I'm curious, do you get into service mode for changing the rear brakes the same way for the digital display and the new steering wheel? I tried it and couldn't get it to work. Not that I need to but I'm just trying to learn the tricks to this car before I have to actually do anything.
#58
Member
In case anyone needs this info I figured it out. If you have the new steering wheel and digital dash you do the same procedure as the normal instrument/steering wheel up until you start pushing buttons. Instead of pushing phone call and enter you push on the left hand side of the steering wheel, back button wait for the screen to change, then hit enter. I believe that's what got it working for me. Hold the buttons till you see it change. You may need to play around with sequencing as I only did it once but the key is the correct buttons for the new wheel are back and enter.
#59
Junior Member
Thanks everyone for the thread. Changed the front and rear pads on the weekend on my 2019 C43. Had ~38,500 km on them. Tried out the Powerstop Z23 Ceramic/Carbon fiber pads. Did the switch from OEM hoping for a reduction in brake dust.... Time will tell.
I drive spirited, but am usually not hard on the brakes. My fronts still had ~50% remaining and the rears were ~ 25% remaining.
When ordering parts, order one wear sensor even if they haven't tripped, odds are one if them won't come out cleanly - my front was no issue, but the rear was embedded in the pad, and wouldn't release.
I didn't replace rotors as they looked fine, I wasn't having any issues and hadn't even run through a pad set.
Notes on both
I don't have the T10E for the wear sensor bracket, it's such a low torque bolt, a 8mm box end wrench worked perfectly and had more than enough room to swing.
Don't forget to loosen the Brake fluid cap before compressing pistons (and also retightening as soon as you are done)
Notes on the front
The fixed calipers are a dream to work on, so simple and straightforward, To compress the pistons, I used waterpump pliers with a thick rag to protect the front face of the caliper. Compress one side, switch the pad, then compress the other side and switch that pad
Each pad has a spring on one side, that faces down
Notes on the rear
To get the rears into the parking service mode, I followed the steps in this video below - not mentioned is that the parking brake must be released before you start the procedure. after getting to service mode, it's a straight compress, no wind-back or rotation needed
Caliper slider bolts are T45 and after 3 salty winters were not an issue to remove. Don't forget to give them a good clean and lube when reassembling
The retaining clip was easiest to remove using a small slot screwdriver to push in and release the clip from each hole on the caliper itself (pushing in and then pushing it to the rear of the car)
Good luck!
I drive spirited, but am usually not hard on the brakes. My fronts still had ~50% remaining and the rears were ~ 25% remaining.
When ordering parts, order one wear sensor even if they haven't tripped, odds are one if them won't come out cleanly - my front was no issue, but the rear was embedded in the pad, and wouldn't release.
I didn't replace rotors as they looked fine, I wasn't having any issues and hadn't even run through a pad set.
Notes on both
I don't have the T10E for the wear sensor bracket, it's such a low torque bolt, a 8mm box end wrench worked perfectly and had more than enough room to swing.
Don't forget to loosen the Brake fluid cap before compressing pistons (and also retightening as soon as you are done)
Notes on the front
The fixed calipers are a dream to work on, so simple and straightforward, To compress the pistons, I used waterpump pliers with a thick rag to protect the front face of the caliper. Compress one side, switch the pad, then compress the other side and switch that pad
Each pad has a spring on one side, that faces down
Notes on the rear
To get the rears into the parking service mode, I followed the steps in this video below - not mentioned is that the parking brake must be released before you start the procedure. after getting to service mode, it's a straight compress, no wind-back or rotation needed
Caliper slider bolts are T45 and after 3 salty winters were not an issue to remove. Don't forget to give them a good clean and lube when reassembling
The retaining clip was easiest to remove using a small slot screwdriver to push in and release the clip from each hole on the caliper itself (pushing in and then pushing it to the rear of the car)
Good luck!
Last edited by Silverbird; 08-08-2022 at 10:20 PM. Reason: moved embedded YT video to end of post
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Darrington (08-09-2022)
#60
Good timing, I need to do mine soon. C400, so I’ll need to check part numbers vs C450 / C43.
What discount website are you using these days? The last one I used doesn’t permit online orders anymore (very odd).
What discount website are you using these days? The last one I used doesn’t permit online orders anymore (very odd).
#61
Junior Member
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Darrington (08-09-2022)
#63
Junior Member
Hi, Thanks for the reminder since I'm 15+ months in.
Huge reduction in dust. Previously on the OEM pads I had annoying levels of brake dust within a week, now it's noticeable, but not yet annoying at the month mark, I've even been able to skip the wheels the occasional time when I do a full car wash.
I'm generally not doing repeated hard stops on my brakes and the brake performance is practically unchanged, if you were using 10/10ths of the brakes, there could be a performance reduction, but I haven't experienced any.
Also haven't noticed any additional or change in brake noise
So would definitely recommend.
Huge reduction in dust. Previously on the OEM pads I had annoying levels of brake dust within a week, now it's noticeable, but not yet annoying at the month mark, I've even been able to skip the wheels the occasional time when I do a full car wash.
I'm generally not doing repeated hard stops on my brakes and the brake performance is practically unchanged, if you were using 10/10ths of the brakes, there could be a performance reduction, but I haven't experienced any.
Also haven't noticed any additional or change in brake noise
So would definitely recommend.
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king_supreme1 (10-19-2023)
#64
Senior Member
Reviving great DIY thread
I'm replacing pads, rotors on my 2017 C43. With the front end on jack stands, to improve access to 21mm bolts to remove caliper I turn the steering wheel to full lock (or stop), but it doesn't lock! I've tried starting the car, turning to full stop, and turn the car off. Steering wheel centers itself. What stupid thing am I missing?
#65
Senior Member
Well, I found a 21mm swivel socket and got the calipers off. Got the rotors off. (Mine was a T30 bolt holding the rotor on.
I bought new torx bolts for the rotors, but not new 21mm caliper bolts. What is the super secret tightening sequence for those? I haven't found it in videos or the forums, but still searching. Thanks!!
EDIT: Finally found it! 80nm + 45 degrees. I will be buying new caliper bolts.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c450-c43-amg/811553-2017-c43-brake-torque-sertings.html
The torx screw and caliper bolts are spec'd as 1-time use, only, and are to be replaced, not reused. Furthermore, the bolts have a specific torque/tightening sequence. While these may be overkill, brakes and tires are critical, especially if you track your car, so I'd always follow the replacement and torque/tightening instructions (and the screw/bolts aren't very expensive).
EDIT: Finally found it! 80nm + 45 degrees. I will be buying new caliper bolts.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c450-c43-amg/811553-2017-c43-brake-torque-sertings.html
Last edited by GermanCarShow; 04-10-2024 at 09:05 PM.