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Brake Pad DIY notes

 
Old 01-28-2018, 08:57 AM
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C450 and a few other things
Post Brake Pad DIY notes

At a little over 20k miles, I got the brake sensor warning light. Both the fronts and the rears were getting very low, so I ordered new pads and rotors for all 4 corners, as well as 2 new wear sensors.


Yesterday, I tackled the fronts, with the rears to come next weekend. Since I didnít see a DIY thread, I figured I would at least type some very quick notes for anyone who will tackle this. Sorry there were no pictures, I was doing it between commercials of the Rolex 24 hours of Daytona race, so, no time for pictures.


I did see Rock Auto finally has some aftermarket pads, but I stuck with OEM, and the Mercedes branded parts I received came from the following countries:

Front Pads: Czech Republic

Rear Pads: Italy

Rotors: Poland


The front brakes are super easy. They are the kind where you tap out the pins, slide the pads out the back, replace, and go.


The minimum thickness stamped on the rotors is 34mm. The new ones were around 37.4, and the ones on the car came in around 35.5. It is likely Iíll be under the minimum at the next pad change, so I debated for a while, but decided to leave the old rotors on the car, and replace them at next change, since they are still 1.4 mm over. There was a noticable outer lip, but otherwise the front rotors looked great.


For the fronts pad change (note Iím leaving off the obvious safety and cleaning stuff like jackstands, wheel chocks, using brake clean on your parts, torquing wheels, etcÖ.these are quick notes, be safe when doing it yourself)


It is very helpful to turn the wheel so you can access the rotors as best as possible.

  • Jack up/jack stands and remove wheel.
  • Youíll see two pins on the calipers. From the back side of the calipers, there youíll see a cotter--type wire that goes through both pins as well as into a little groove in the caliper. Remove this with needle nose pliers. The wire will get a little deformed with removal and reinstall, I think Iíll order new ones for the next pad replacement.
  • Once the wire is removed, gently tap the pins from the back of the caliper. Once you get them pushed out a little, you can use the needle nose to pull it out from the front.
  • Once both pins or out, the retaining clip will probably just fall right to the floor
  • Once the clip and pins are out, you can pull the pads out the back. It will be hard to get them out, just pulling. Since youíll need to compress the caliper pistons (4 on the fronts) anyway, I found the best thing to do is to use a C-clamp. There will be a spot on the top and bottom of the pad where you can get one end of the clamp on the old pad and the other on the back/front of the caliper. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, taking out fluid if needed, then working evenly, compress the pads to push in the pistons. The old pads will now pull right out.
  • Insert the new pads, push the pins back in, attach the retaining clip, and the cotter wire and you are good to go.
  • The brake wear sensor is on the inboard passenger pad, and it attaches easily to the wire and gets placed into a hole in the pad.
  • Note, where the brake pad sensor attaches may be in the way for re-inserting that pad. It is held on via a reverse torx (e10) screw, so that is the only unusual tool youíll need.

If you are in a hurry, this is only a 1 beer job. I took the time to clean the calipers, inside/backs of of the wheel, and such to stretch it to 2 (or 3). Tools needed are nothing more than jack, stands, torque wrench for wheels, needle nose pliers, and small hammer for pad change, c clamp to compress the pistons and the e10 for the sensor.


Removing the caliper to replace the rotors would require a little more.


Iíll post when I get to the backs, which will be slightly more complicated since you need to slide the caliper off, and go through the brake release procedure in the dash.
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Old 02-05-2018, 09:52 PM
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C450 and a few other things
Tackled the rear this weekend. The rear rotors were hardly worn at all. Minimum thickness is 21.4, new was 24.3, used was 24.0. Think they will be fine for a while.

The rears are the same as they've been on plenty of other C classes I believe, so any DIY you find should work.

If you are not changing rotors:

After safely jacked and wheels removed:
  • Using the steering wheel controls, put the car in brake service mode and retract the pads. There is video on youtube. The trick here is to hold the buttons while the odometer was displaying I was trying to do it from another screen and didn't get it to work for a while.
  • Remove dust caps on the backside of the slider pins
  • (passenger side only) use reverse torx (e10) to remove brake wear sensor and disconnect from pads
  • Use torx (think it was t45?) to remove the slider pins
  • remove positioning clips with flat head scewdriver
  • slide off calipers and hang so brake lines are not stressed
  • remove pads
  • Insert wear sensor (passenger side inboard only
  • Insert pads onto rotors
  • Remove fluid cap and compress piston (large single piston in the back, if you use C clamps like I do, you need a decent size one)
  • Slide calipers back on
  • Reinsert slide pins (I applied some brake pin lube) and tighten, recap, reattach wear sensor, reattach positioning clip.
  • After completing both sides, re-engage brakes from steering wheel controls.
Relatively quick once I figured out how to retract the pads from the steering wheel (and inserted the right size torx into the slider pins, got it wrong the first time and it jammed in there.

Tools were t45 torx (I think), e10 reverse torx, flathead screwdriver, c-lclamp, and the jack stands, torque wrench for wheels, etc...

All in all, a pretty easy pad change. Rotors, as always will definitely be harder, rears looked like 2 18 mm bolts that need to be removed and are on there tight (as they are spected to be). Seems like rear rotors will last quite a while if the pattern holds, but I'll need to use the new fronts at the next pad change.

Also, I should note that as any C450/43 owner knows, these pads are very dusty. Clothes and tools got pretty nasty, more than most brake pads I've done and all needed a good cleaning.

Since my rotors were not used, the grand total for my front and rear pad change (front pads, rear pads, wear sensors for both) was $162, with another $400 in rotors sitting in the box for next time.
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Old 06-12-2019, 04:43 PM
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Thanks for the write-up! Do you have the part number that you used for the rear pads? I used a part finder tool from a Mercedes dealer online and got 000-420-82-00. It looked the same as my old pads, but it was only making contact with the inside 2/3 of the rotor. I went to another dealer and used its tool to find 000-420-59-00. I just want to make sure if anyone used the same part. Also, I read somewhere else that you have to take the sway bar link off to change the rear rotors on the C450. Can you tell if this is true? Thank you very much in advance.
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Tupakbubba View Post
Thanks for the write-up! Do you have the part number that you used for the rear pads? I used a part finder tool from a Mercedes dealer online and got 000-420-82-00. It looked the same as my old pads, but it was only making contact with the inside 2/3 of the rotor. I went to another dealer and used its tool to find 000-420-59-00. I just want to make sure if anyone used the same part. Also, I read somewhere else that you have to take the sway bar link off to change the rear rotors on the C450. Can you tell if this is true? Thank you very much in advance.
Yes, the rear pads I used were # 000-420-59-00

From memory, I didn't note that it was obvious the you needed to remove the sway bar link to get to rear rotors, but since my rear rotors were totally fine, I didn't check if the clearance was there to fully remove the bolts. My previous (non MB car) had clearance issues getting to the caliper bracket bolts, but I was able to use a jack to get the right amount of suspension load to have clear access. There's a lot of travel from fully unloaded on jack stands to fully loaded, so hopefully there is a position that works, although I can't be positive.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:58 PM
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This should be a sticky!



Thanx for this
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:28 PM
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Be careful with the rears, I heard you have to retract the piston using software before removing the rotors and caliper or you could be finding yourself purchasing a new caliper. This is because of the rear parking brakes.
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Old 06-13-2019, 08:36 AM
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Since it was asked and the thread has been revived, here are the parts I used. Prices are from one of the on-line discount Mercedes Dealers at the time I purchased.
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mau108 View Post
Be careful with the rears, I heard you have to retract the piston using software before removing the rotors and caliper or you could be finding yourself purchasing a new caliper. This is because of the rear parking brakes.
Just need to go into service menu and enter rear brake service mode.

No software needed.
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:33 PM
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I referenced the video to show you how to get into brake service mode in the initial post. Here is the video

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Old Yesterday, 05:41 PM
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Does anyone know approximately what percentage of pads are left when pad sensor is triggered? I think it'll be enough to drive around for a few days before new pads are delivered but I just want to be sure. I don't want to order parts in advance.
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Old Yesterday, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGiggity View Post
Does anyone know approximately what percentage of pads are left when pad sensor is triggered? I think it'll be enough to drive around for a few days before new pads are delivered but I just want to be sure. I don't want to order parts in advance.
Drive around until brakes starts to squeak. Then the low brake warning metal will start to scrape the rotors. If you think your rear is low, and want to press it, fine but I wouldn't do it to the front rotors. They expensive.
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Old Yesterday, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGiggity View Post
Does anyone know approximately what percentage of pads are left when pad sensor is triggered? I think it'll be enough to drive around for a few days before new pads are delivered but I just want to be sure. I don't want to order parts in advance.
There is some pad life when the wear sensors go off. Certainly enough for a "Few days" unless you make a cross country trip in those few days. I measured them when I pulled them off, but don't see my notes. As a guess, probably 2.5-3 mm left. Definitely time to replace, but definitely not an emergency, they weren't at the backing plate or anything.

The one thing to note is that the sensor is only on 1 of the 4 pads on each axle, so if you have uneven wear (which has been reported by several people on this forum) you may need pads before the sensor goes off. That was not my case and should not happen much in theory (unless you drive on ovals like NASCAR and have stability control kick in on one side only) but others here did report having some uneven wear.
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