horsepower upgrades
On a side note I was interested in the Race Chip Black, until I read on the C43 Facebook page many people bashing the crap out of it and much prefer the BMS JB1, which was very surprising to me, as I was strongly considering it.
In case no one knew all of the Polar Bears are dying from global warming and they are the only bear species that see's a human as a food source- go figure.
Last edited by Lazz83; Aug 25, 2018 at 12:09 PM.
I bought the Racechip GTS black for several reasons:
1. JB warns its product is for the racecourse, only;
2. JB required a separate Bluetooth module at the time I bought, but racechip did not;
3. It was generally agreed at the time that the Racechip had what appeared to be superior, more robust packaging; and,
4. Racechip’s app Routinely updates the firmware and automatically connects you to tech support for individual tuning, something I used several times to get it right.
I cant compare the products, but I can say I believe I got good value and a very good tune.
Hey CFG,
JB and Dinan do the track warning because they both are located in Cali and need to abide by all of that state's emissions and consumer product laws and regs. Regardless, Racechip appears to be a very good product. From what I read, it appears to be one of the preferred piggy back options in Europe. I think they are based in Germany and have set up US distribution fairly recently.
If I wanted a PnP and forget it module, I'd go with Racechip. If I was looking for more multiple maps and modes for different fuel grades and just a little more tweaking and customization, I'd do JB1. Once the BT module is added to the JB1 the pricepoint becomes very similar to Racechip. Both companies appear to stand by their products and customers.
MB is more focused on longevity of the engine and gas mileage. Once they hit their target horsepower number, the focus shifts to fuel economy and drivability. Tunes also make the engine more susceptible to heat soak. They also can step too close to C63 performance specs.
You can still run over 100,000 miles on a tune as long as you don’t go boost crazy. As with any car, harder you push it, higher chance of something failing. This is why I run the JB4 piggyback. I can switch between stock boost and go up from there. Most days I drive it as stock power level, but if I want I have fun, I can put in E30 fuel and add 7 psi or so over stock.
Adding a piggy that increases boost a bit and raises peak hp/tq by 10-12% is no big deal. Adding an ecu flash that increases peak hp/tq by >30%... well, you might now be operating outside of the design parameters. If you are running a very aggressive tune and the drivetrain ****s the bed, that's on you, not the manufacturer.
Adding a piggy that increases boost a bit and raises peak hp/tq by 10-12% is no big deal. Adding an ecu flash that increases peak hp/tq by >30%... well, you might now be operating outside of the design parameters. If you are running a very aggressive tune and the drivetrain ****s the bed, that's on you, not the manufacturer.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
M276 seems to be a pretty tough engine. The 9g is still relatively new. Most commonly reported issues with the 9g so far appear to be software related.
MB generally is known for solid drivetrains, it's electrical gremlins and suspension wear (especially on airmatic cars) that you need to worry about.
MB generally is known for solid drivetrains, it's electrical gremlins and suspension wear (especially on airmatic cars) that you need to worry about.
I don't know the answer because I'm not familiar with MB, its an innocent question, not a loaded one
The surging issue in S+ with the 9g is a complex issue that has multiple threads devoted to it. Throttle tip-in on the glc43 in S+ is very aggressive. Some users may have an issue with software or adaptation others like myself just needed to adapt to the this aggressive setting...others have had different experiences. Introducing it's discussion in this thread is not appropriate to the discussion of the OP's original question.
Some people get into trouble by adding a tune before correcting a pre-existing problem. This is a very bad idea. For any troubleshooting process it's important to have an established baseline.
It's easy to go back to baseline with a piggyback, just remove it. Returning to stock with an ECU flash is more difficult. Again, two different animals.
If you had a minor issue like a boost leak and were running a piggyback, then yes; just remove the piggy and take it in for service. The tech will easily diagnose and repair it. There are multiple accounts of this exact issue on this forum.
It's easy for MB to detect an ECU tune. There are physical signs that are obvious without any examination of the software. The use of an aggressive piggyback may be detected if the amount of boost applied triggered a soft error code on the ECU event log. It's possible that a mild piggyback may be detected if a highly skilled technical specialist digs deeply enough. It's not likely but it's definitely possible.
This is not black and white. If you use a mild piggy and always remove it before taking your car to dealer service then yes, you are unlikely to have any issues with warranty service. If you use an aggressive piggy or run an ECU flash that frequently pushes the boost levels well beyond the design parameters and your motor grenades then it's going to be on you to pay for it.
If a dealer finds a piggyback attached or notices a modified ECU when they service your car they may flag it. They might make some bold BS proclamation like "this voids your warranty"! This is never true. No mod "voids the warranty". What happens is that a detected mod may cause the car to become flagged. If the car is flagged and is brought in for service of any systems or components that may have been affected by the mod, warranty coverage for those specific repairs may be denied. This would be decided on a case by case basis and could potentially cause an affected owner some big headaches.









