Transmission takes a long time to warm up
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2008
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'20 GLC300 SUV
Transmission takes a long time to warm up
Hey guys,
I've had this car since August now. Don't know if I like it anymore. I'm going to be writing a pretty compelling (sad?) post/thread (with plenty of photos) detailing how many things have gone wrong with my car since August. The most disappointing part is how indifferent MBUSA has been - stringing me along.
Anyway, back on topic.
I've noticed the transmission temperature, displayed along with oil temperature, takes a long time to go from "blue" (cold) to "white" (ready to roll). This occurs at about 120 degrees.
The oil temperature only takes a few minutes to reach normal operating temps. The transmission, however, takes at least 20-25 minutes to hit that 120 mark. I've never experienced anything like it. I can almost never drive the car in a spirited fashion unless I'm going to be having 40 minutes to an hour worth of driving.
Is this normal?
Also, the car feels slow. Like 5.1 seconds to 60 slow. Zero error messages. Zero codes. No leaks anywhere.
I've had this car since August now. Don't know if I like it anymore. I'm going to be writing a pretty compelling (sad?) post/thread (with plenty of photos) detailing how many things have gone wrong with my car since August. The most disappointing part is how indifferent MBUSA has been - stringing me along.
Anyway, back on topic.
I've noticed the transmission temperature, displayed along with oil temperature, takes a long time to go from "blue" (cold) to "white" (ready to roll). This occurs at about 120 degrees.
The oil temperature only takes a few minutes to reach normal operating temps. The transmission, however, takes at least 20-25 minutes to hit that 120 mark. I've never experienced anything like it. I can almost never drive the car in a spirited fashion unless I'm going to be having 40 minutes to an hour worth of driving.
Is this normal?
Also, the car feels slow. Like 5.1 seconds to 60 slow. Zero error messages. Zero codes. No leaks anywhere.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 402
Likes: 128
From: Houston
2018 C43 sedan
I run into the same problem. When your trans gets to 100F, switch it to sport mode, and continue driving regularly. The added shifts will warm it up faster. Takes me about 7-8 miles to get the trans up to temperature.
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Omaha, NE
'16 AMG GTS, '21 AMG GLE53
First off, let's make sure you're in the correct forum...your avatar details say '13 C63. This is the C43 forum.
Assuming you're still here...
After nearly 30k miles of driving, this is typical of the car...especially in the middle of winter! I'm in Nebraska. My car is garaged and typically shows 40-50F when I start it up in the morning, and I barely break 85-90F on my 15min commute. If we drive my wife's car all weekend, Monday mornings will show 30-35F.
Where are you located? Cold temps should help performance, but only to a point. Too cold and you'll start to creep the wrong direction on performance, especially when you're not fully warmed up. "Too cold" of temps has been proven by data logging with JB4. The turbos don't like sub-freezing temps. The air density altitude plays a major part as well. Record times might not be achievable where you're located.
Assuming you're still here...
After nearly 30k miles of driving, this is typical of the car...especially in the middle of winter! I'm in Nebraska. My car is garaged and typically shows 40-50F when I start it up in the morning, and I barely break 85-90F on my 15min commute. If we drive my wife's car all weekend, Monday mornings will show 30-35F.
Where are you located? Cold temps should help performance, but only to a point. Too cold and you'll start to creep the wrong direction on performance, especially when you're not fully warmed up. "Too cold" of temps has been proven by data logging with JB4. The turbos don't like sub-freezing temps. The air density altitude plays a major part as well. Record times might not be achievable where you're located.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 711
Likes: 108
2018 Mercedes C43 AMG Coupe
If you take the car straight to the highway, it can take a whole hour of driving to hit white lmao...
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Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,202
Likes: 199
From: Brooklyn, NY
2018 GT R; G82; M340
Just want to share my experience.
In winter I switch to Individual (Engine in S, Suspension in S+, Steering in S+) when Oil riches 100F and I've doing this for 2 winters now. In the summer I switch to Individual right away. 0 issues..
In winter I switch to Individual (Engine in S, Suspension in S+, Steering in S+) when Oil riches 100F and I've doing this for 2 winters now. In the summer I switch to Individual right away. 0 issues..
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,829
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'20 GLC300 SUV
Happens when it's 50 F, too. Next?
Thank you for that tip. I'll try that. That 7-8 mile range sounds about right. I'm at about 9-10 right now, and my commute is a few miles shorter.
Follow-up - I'm assuming you still take it easy with the revs despite the fact you're in Sport?
Completely fair observation/question. I need to update my avatar and info. as I used to have a '13 W204 C63. Had it for about 5 years. Thing was bulletproof. I have had my '18 C43 since August.
Thank you for sharing your observations. Sounds like my experience with the transmission temperature is not unusual.
To answer your final question(s), I'm bone stock and running at sea level here in central Indiana. It just seems like the car is bogging down and the turbos are running out of breath early in the rev range (and this is in moderate temperatures between 35 and 50 F).
To be honest, I'm thinking the stock Conti RFTs could be a contributing factor.
Many thanks for chiming in. I feel quite a bit better about the transmission temperature situation now. Seems like a complete non-issue in the sense that things are operating normally.
I'm definitely trying the powertrain in Sport setting after the oil temperature starts to warm up. I'm confident in that approach now that 3 of you guys with good mileage have utilized that method successfully.
Follow-up - I'm assuming you still take it easy with the revs despite the fact you're in Sport?
First off, let's make sure you're in the correct forum...your avatar details say '13 C63. This is the C43 forum.
Assuming you're still here...
After nearly 30k miles of driving, this is typical of the car...especially in the middle of winter! I'm in Nebraska. My car is garaged and typically shows 40-50F when I start it up in the morning, and I barely break 85-90F on my 15min commute. If we drive my wife's car all weekend, Monday mornings will show 30-35F.
Where are you located? Cold temps should help performance, but only to a point. Too cold and you'll start to creep the wrong direction on performance, especially when you're not fully warmed up. "Too cold" of temps has been proven by data logging with JB4. The turbos don't like sub-freezing temps. The air density altitude plays a major part as well. Record times might not be achievable where you're located.
Assuming you're still here...
After nearly 30k miles of driving, this is typical of the car...especially in the middle of winter! I'm in Nebraska. My car is garaged and typically shows 40-50F when I start it up in the morning, and I barely break 85-90F on my 15min commute. If we drive my wife's car all weekend, Monday mornings will show 30-35F.
Where are you located? Cold temps should help performance, but only to a point. Too cold and you'll start to creep the wrong direction on performance, especially when you're not fully warmed up. "Too cold" of temps has been proven by data logging with JB4. The turbos don't like sub-freezing temps. The air density altitude plays a major part as well. Record times might not be achievable where you're located.
Thank you for sharing your observations. Sounds like my experience with the transmission temperature is not unusual.
To answer your final question(s), I'm bone stock and running at sea level here in central Indiana. It just seems like the car is bogging down and the turbos are running out of breath early in the rev range (and this is in moderate temperatures between 35 and 50 F).
To be honest, I'm thinking the stock Conti RFTs could be a contributing factor.
I'm definitely trying the powertrain in Sport setting after the oil temperature starts to warm up. I'm confident in that approach now that 3 of you guys with good mileage have utilized that method successfully.
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Super Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 697
Likes: 104
From: Taiwan
GLC43, X P100D, S P100D, CT200H
Hey guys,
I've had this car since August now. Don't know if I like it anymore. I'm going to be writing a pretty compelling (sad?) post/thread (with plenty of photos) detailing how many things have gone wrong with my car since August. The most disappointing part is how indifferent MBUSA has been - stringing me along.
Anyway, back on topic.
I've noticed the transmission temperature, displayed along with oil temperature, takes a long time to go from "blue" (cold) to "white" (ready to roll). This occurs at about 120 degrees.
The oil temperature only takes a few minutes to reach normal operating temps. The transmission, however, takes at least 20-25 minutes to hit that 120 mark. I've never experienced anything like it. I can almost never drive the car in a spirited fashion unless I'm going to be having 40 minutes to an hour worth of driving.
Is this normal?
Also, the car feels slow. Like 5.1 seconds to 60 slow. Zero error messages. Zero codes. No leaks anywhere.
I've had this car since August now. Don't know if I like it anymore. I'm going to be writing a pretty compelling (sad?) post/thread (with plenty of photos) detailing how many things have gone wrong with my car since August. The most disappointing part is how indifferent MBUSA has been - stringing me along.
Anyway, back on topic.
I've noticed the transmission temperature, displayed along with oil temperature, takes a long time to go from "blue" (cold) to "white" (ready to roll). This occurs at about 120 degrees.
The oil temperature only takes a few minutes to reach normal operating temps. The transmission, however, takes at least 20-25 minutes to hit that 120 mark. I've never experienced anything like it. I can almost never drive the car in a spirited fashion unless I'm going to be having 40 minutes to an hour worth of driving.
Is this normal?
Also, the car feels slow. Like 5.1 seconds to 60 slow. Zero error messages. Zero codes. No leaks anywhere.
5.1 is definitely slow. You are not imagining things. Many many many members have achieved around 4.2 +/- .1 sec stock to 60. Mine stock was like 4.7secs and i am in a GLC.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,026
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From: Omaha, NE
'16 AMG GTS, '21 AMG GLE53
One thing to check...turn on the HP/TQ gauges on the COMAND screen and do some pulls once you're fully warmed up. Where does the HP max out? Also, turn on the AMG page on the central cluster screen...is the boost gauge staying close to pegged? There's a "soft code" error that can happen in the background that doesn't throw a CEL, but does limit boost because of one reason or another. If either HP or boost levels aren't showing what they should, it will be worth the trip to the dealer to have them sort it out.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 296
Likes: 46
From: Connecticut
2019 AMG C43 Sedan
I've only clocked 100 miles on my 19 C43 but the transmission does take longer to warm up after the oil is at temperature so that sounds normal. Being in comfort mode on mine and 30 degree F temps makes sense, but there's no slowness, it's a little rocket even in comfort
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 55
Likes: 8
From: Maryland USA
2024 GT 55
My transmission is likewise slower warming up; definitely attributable to cold starts. Oil temp comes up normally. I have been thinking about warming it up on these really cold days, but have always heard that it is not good to do. Any thoughts or experience?
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,829
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'20 GLC300 SUV
Now I hear all the noise and excitement from the engine and exhaust without the shove to match it.
One thing to check...turn on the HP/TQ gauges on the COMAND screen and do some pulls once you're fully warmed up. Where does the HP max out? Also, turn on the AMG page on the central cluster screen...is the boost gauge staying close to pegged? There's a "soft code" error that can happen in the background that doesn't throw a CEL, but does limit boost because of one reason or another. If either HP or boost levels aren't showing what they should, it will be worth the trip to the dealer to have them sort it out.
No joke, mine feels indistinguishable from a C300 in C mode right now.
Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 83
Likes: 11
From: Just outside Oslo, Norway
2018 AMG C43 T
In winter here in Norway, my transmission needs about 15 minutes before it's warm. But this is with 14 degree F outside... I have an auxiliary heater, but it only heats up the engine oil etc. The transmission is around 32-40 degrees F at start when it's this cold outside.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,829
Likes: 95
'20 GLC300 SUV
In winter here in Norway, my transmission needs about 15 minutes before it's warm. But this is with 14 degree F outside... I have an auxiliary heater, but it only heats up the engine oil etc. The transmission is around 32-40 degrees F at start when it's this cold outside.
I guess my next question is - what's the deal with this transmission needing so much time to warm up?
I could monitor transmission temperatures on the MCT in my W204 C63 (obviously a different transmission with no torque converter, etc.) and it would often reach normal operating temperature just as quickly as the oil temperature.
Member
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 105
Likes: 11
From: Houston
2017 AMG C43
On the flip side, when it is warm and I'm driving the car hard, the trans fluid temp doesn't stray high either. I would rather it take awhile to warm up (also an hour or so on the highway) than to worry that the transmission needs to be babied when 100+ degrees and having fun.
Thread Starter
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'20 GLC300 SUV
On the flip side, when it is warm and I'm driving the car hard, the trans fluid temp doesn't stray high either. I would rather it take awhile to warm up (also an hour or so on the highway) than to worry that the transmission needs to be babied when 100+ degrees and having fun.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 711
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2018 Mercedes C43 AMG Coupe
Had to commute far today so I decided to take some measurements. Today was around -13 to -14*C ambient temperature not including wind chills or driving speed. Gauges showed -11*C engine and -7*C trans. Warmed up car until idle rpm drops (1 minute) and took the city streets for 2 mins before hitting the highway. From there I had medium rush hour traffic, all in comfort mode.
Took me exactly 15 minutes for Engine temp to hit 70*C and 50 minutes for Tranny Fluid to hit 50*C.
Took me exactly 15 minutes for Engine temp to hit 70*C and 50 minutes for Tranny Fluid to hit 50*C.
Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 80
Likes: 20
C43 AMG
Its pretty simple if you didnt stole a car but bought it off a Dealer:
If theres a Problem -> Go to the Dealer, put your Keys on their Desk and have them fix it.
If its not fixed, don't take the car back till it is fixed.
You get a Loan Car for this time and thats it.
If theres a Problem -> Go to the Dealer, put your Keys on their Desk and have them fix it.
If its not fixed, don't take the car back till it is fixed.
You get a Loan Car for this time and thats it.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
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'20 GLC300 SUV
Wait. There's a dealership?!
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 264
From: Portland, OR
C450, GLC43
A cold tranny is not a problem. Worrying about it is a waste of time. People spend a lot of money to upgrade intercoolers for a reason. Heat kills a tranny not cold.
It may shift a little sluggishly while cold but nothing is being damaged.
It may shift a little sluggishly while cold but nothing is being damaged.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
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'20 GLC300 SUV
So, I haven't had a chance to do some really hard WOT pulls from a stop.
But I've done some pretty aggressive WOT pulls from a roll and here are some things I've noticed:
1) The boost gauge readout in the gauge cluster never hits "max"
2) All I've made so far on the engine/torque readout on the COMAND display is: about 260 horsepower and about 300 lb-ft
Before my W204 C63, I had several E90/F30 335i sedans (AWD, RWD, tuned, stock, you name it). The C43 should feel faster than those.
Right now, it's just a bit of mid-range punch for a split second and then the car runs out of breath in a hurry.
But I've done some pretty aggressive WOT pulls from a roll and here are some things I've noticed:
1) The boost gauge readout in the gauge cluster never hits "max"
2) All I've made so far on the engine/torque readout on the COMAND display is: about 260 horsepower and about 300 lb-ft
Before my W204 C63, I had several E90/F30 335i sedans (AWD, RWD, tuned, stock, you name it). The C43 should feel faster than those.
Right now, it's just a bit of mid-range punch for a split second and then the car runs out of breath in a hurry.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,577
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From: Portland, OR
C450, GLC43
So, I haven't had a chance to do some really hard WOT pulls from a stop.
But I've done some pretty aggressive WOT pulls from a roll and here are some things I've noticed:
1) The boost gauge readout in the gauge cluster never hits "max"
2) All I've made so far on the engine/torque readout on the COMAND display is: about 260 horsepower and about 300 lb-ft
Before my W204 C63, I had several E90/F30 335i sedans (AWD, RWD, tuned, stock, you name it). The C43 should feel faster than those.
Right now, it's just a bit of mid-range punch for a split second and then the car runs out of breath in a hurry.
But I've done some pretty aggressive WOT pulls from a roll and here are some things I've noticed:
1) The boost gauge readout in the gauge cluster never hits "max"
2) All I've made so far on the engine/torque readout on the COMAND display is: about 260 horsepower and about 300 lb-ft
Before my W204 C63, I had several E90/F30 335i sedans (AWD, RWD, tuned, stock, you name it). The C43 should feel faster than those.
Right now, it's just a bit of mid-range punch for a split second and then the car runs out of breath in a hurry.
You should take it in for service and have them check for a boost leak. This has been known to cause a loss of power that does not trigger a CEL.
Search this subforum for more info on this issue. A couple users on here have encountered it. If it's a boost leak that's a very simple fix.
Both my C450 and my GLC 43 will max the HP meter in the command console if run at WOT in S+ or manual mode. My GLC will always max boost before WOT. Just a little extra foot pressure and the bar maxes. My C450 does not have a boost meter like the '43 models so I can't verify on that one.
Last edited by Mr. J; Feb 3, 2019 at 02:29 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,829
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'20 GLC300 SUV
You should take it in for service and have them check for a boost leak. This has been known to cause a loss of power that does not trigger a CEL.
Search this subforum for more info on this issue. A couple users on here have encountered it. If it's a boost leak that's a very simple fix.
Both my C450 and my GLC 43 will max the HP meter in the command console if run at WOT in S+ or manual mode. My GLC will always max boost before WOT. Just a little extra foot pressure and the bar maxes. My C450 does not have a boost meter like the '43 models so I can't verify on that one.
Search this subforum for more info on this issue. A couple users on here have encountered it. If it's a boost leak that's a very simple fix.
Both my C450 and my GLC 43 will max the HP meter in the command console if run at WOT in S+ or manual mode. My GLC will always max boost before WOT. Just a little extra foot pressure and the bar maxes. My C450 does not have a boost meter like the '43 models so I can't verify on that one.
Drove to an empty stretch of road and buried the throttle pedal. Was consistently hitting 360+ on both the hp and torque readouts. Torque was at 370+.
Boost meter was jumping to the right.
Drove to my regular Shell gas station to pick up some water and noticed that they had signs on all the pumps that said “no premium, no mid-grade.”
I spoke to the manager and it looks like the last time I filled up at my regular station a week or so ago, it was possible that I was given “regular” gas, as an employee had neglected to put the signage up on time on every pump.
Could bad gas have caused the engine to protect itself and change parameters to compensate?
Regardless, car feels strong now.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,829
Likes: 95
'20 GLC300 SUV
It’s an impressive piece of machinery. And I’m not impressed easily. As soon as I get my other issues sorted, I think I’ll truly be enamored with this car.
