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My 2017 C43 Sedan rear shocks (Code 488 suspension) have minor leaks and need replacing. I have 3 questions around that.
1. Does anyone know if the current OE MB replacement rear shock units are still prone to leaking, or if the issue has been fixed in their current replacement units?
2. Does anyone know if the Bilstein replacement option (Bilstein 24-277969) performs pretty much the same with the car's electronic ride control system modes as the MB OE shocks do, or do they have noticeably different performance from the OE units, and also are the Bilsteins maybe less prone to leaking?
3. I presume I should do a wheel alignment after replacing the shocks, or not?
Pretty sure that the MB shocks are BilsteinDampTronic shocks. They are on my 2015 SL400 (Code 485).
Thanks. Googling and AI chatbot searching today has given me mixed answers on that, so I'm not sure in the case of the C43 W205 if the original rear shocks are the Bilstein damptronics or not. Bilstein's website says their Damptronic Mercedes replacement is designed to perform the same as the MB ride control ones, but they don't claim/say it is actually the same unit, so I'm not sure.
My 2017 C43 Sedan rear shocks (Code 488 suspension) have minor leaks and need replacing. I have 3 questions around that.
1. Does anyone know if the current OE MB replacement rear shock units are still prone to leaking, or if the issue has been fixed in their current replacement units?
2. Does anyone know if the Bilstein replacement option (Bilstein 24-277969) performs pretty much the same with the car's electronic ride control system modes as the MB OE shocks do, or do they have noticeably different performance from the OE units, and also are the Bilsteins maybe less prone to leaking?
3. I presume I should do a wheel alignment after replacing the shocks, or not?
Cheers and Thanks
Forgot what page but operator's manual said sport+ is meant to be used for track use only if I recalled correctly.
So in the stiffest position on public roads especially in pot hole city, they might be more prone to damage, so if you drive sport+ mode on OE shocks often make sure to put them back to comfort.
I also think the sport+ mode is meant to be designed in pothole free autobahn.
Forgot what page but operator's manual said sport+ is meant to be used for track use only if I recalled correctly.
So in the stiffest position on public roads especially in pot hole city, they might be more prone to damage, so if you drive sport+ mode on OE shocks often make sure to put them back to comfort.
I also think the sport+ mode is meant to be designed in pothole free autobahn.
Thanks. Yes, I was aware of that from early on and only use S+ very occasionally for short periods, but I've heard of W205 c43 rear shocks leaking at very low mileages so I think there was a real leaking issue/weakness with those shocks, at least for the batches of rear shocks in early W205 C43s. Cheers
Thanks. Yes, I was aware of that from early on and only use S+ very occasionally for short periods, but I've heard of W205 c43 rear shocks leaking at very low mileages so I think there was a real leaking issue/weakness with those shocks, at least for the batches of rear shocks in early W205 C43s. Cheers
I see, I did hear it was more common on the facelift W205 C 43 though...
My 2018 had a rear shock replaced under warranty. Was told alignment not needed as the shock change would not affect it. Perhaps it is because only toe can be adjusted, but not sure.
Originally Posted by morrienz
My 2017 C43 Sedan rear shocks (Code 488 suspension) have minor leaks and need replacing. I have 3 questions around that.
1. Does anyone know if the current OE MB replacement rear shock units are still prone to leaking, or if the issue has been fixed in their current replacement units?
2. Does anyone know if the Bilstein replacement option (Bilstein 24-277969) performs pretty much the same with the car's electronic ride control system modes as the MB OE shocks do, or do they have noticeably different performance from the OE units, and also are the Bilsteins maybe less prone to leaking?
3. I presume I should do a wheel alignment after replacing the shocks, or not?
Since S+ mode has an independent suspension setting, wouldn't putting car in S+ mode and suspension in C should negate any related issues?
Correct : ) That is what I said : )
Just setup individual and put it in individual to save yourself from the headaches, or if you have a facelift with drive unit, press the right screen once.
My 2018 had a rear shock replaced under warranty. Was told alignment not needed as the shock change would not affect it. Perhaps it is because only toe can be adjusted, but not sure.
To answer the question, look at your shock and see if it has two wires.
I just replaced my rear shocks (140k miles-2019 car). Passenger rear had blown and wasn't doing much. This I could DIY, the shocks were $450 each at the dealer. Aftermarkets weren't available, there is sort of a Bilstein pipeline but I couldn't find any in stock.
Left front is gone now too. I'm getting that done at my indy because the disassembly requires two special tools and a lift might be helpful.
I am in Sport + the majority of time, and will toggle full comfort in the city. I checked my owner's manual closely, and there is NO warning or prohibition on Sport +. My individual mode has sport transaxle and sport plus suspension setting, along with Sport ESP. The traction control is a very strict nanny and will nibble your rear brake pads to death in Comfort....I also have start/stop turned off in Individual, so "start car, hit mode, two presses on left wheel pad for warnings on screen" is the daily routine.
The Damptronic system has two valves, which vary a flow of oil, controlled by the electric input. When they die, you sometimes get OK rebound damping but no compression damping...or vice versa....they don't go floppy like dumb shocks. Damptronic is mostly noticed at warp speeds...the skyhook concept is most apparent.
No alignment needed for rears. Took me longer to remove the fender skirts and plastic plugs than to change the shocks themselves.
Last edited by speedlaw; Nov 13, 2024 at 12:32 PM.
To answer the question, look at your shock and see if it has two wires.
I just replaced my rear shocks (140k miles-2019 car). Passenger rear had blown and wasn't doing much. This I could DIY, the shocks were $450 each at the dealer. Aftermarkets weren't available, there is sort of a Bilstein pipeline but I couldn't find any in stock.
Left front is gone now too. I'm getting that done at my indy because the disassembly requires two special tools and a lift might be helpful.
I am in Sport + the majority of time, and will toggle full comfort in the city. I checked my owner's manual closely, and there is NO warning or prohibition on Sport +. My individual mode has sport transaxle and sport plus suspension setting, along with Sport ESP. The traction control is a very strict nanny and will nibble your rear brake pads to death in Comfort....I also have start/stop turned off in Individual, so "start car, hit mode, two presses on left wheel pad for warnings on screen" is the daily routine.
The Damptronic system has two valves, which vary a flow of oil, controlled by the electric input. When they die, you sometimes get OK rebound damping but no compression damping...or vice versa....they don't go floppy like dumb shocks. Damptronic is mostly noticed at warp speeds...the skyhook concept is most apparent.
No alignment needed for rears. Took me longer to remove the fender skirts and plastic plugs than to change the shocks themselves.
To answer the question, look at your shock and see if it has two wires.
I just replaced my rear shocks (140k miles-2019 car). Passenger rear had blown and wasn't doing much. This I could DIY, the shocks were $450 each at the dealer. Aftermarkets weren't available, there is sort of a Bilstein pipeline but I couldn't find any in stock.
Left front is gone now too. I'm getting that done at my indy because the disassembly requires two special tools and a lift might be helpful.
I am in Sport + the majority of time, and will toggle full comfort in the city. I checked my owner's manual closely, and there is NO warning or prohibition on Sport +. My individual mode has sport transaxle and sport plus suspension setting, along with Sport ESP. The traction control is a very strict nanny and will nibble your rear brake pads to death in Comfort....I also have start/stop turned off in Individual, so "start car, hit mode, two presses on left wheel pad for warnings on screen" is the daily routine.
The Damptronic system has two valves, which vary a flow of oil, controlled by the electric input. When they die, you sometimes get OK rebound damping but no compression damping...or vice versa....they don't go floppy like dumb shocks. Damptronic is mostly noticed at warp speeds...the skyhook concept is most apparent.
No alignment needed for rears. Took me longer to remove the fender skirts and plastic plugs than to change the shocks themselves.
The fronts were blown as well. Since this DIY was two special tools and a rack would help, I decided an Indy would be best. 4.2 hours labor plus parts. The shocks were @425 each.
What a difference ! The car is now flat again, no bounce, etc.
The old shock I asked them to save was leaking-there was a youtube video by an eastern european who fixes the airmatic systems. While we don't have that, it was a great discussion (as translated), about how the shocks work and fail. First failure mode is the top of the shock, the single seal is in an aluminium ring, which eventually wears. He replaces this with a harder steel with a double seal. The other failure point is the gas at the bottom of the tube, that seal fails and your shock oil is foam. (The airmatics fail repeatedly - when the shock goes, the bag goes, the owner replaces the bags but NOT the shocks)
The replaced shock didn't have much resistance....
He shows the dead shocks on a shock absorber testing machine, and the rebuilds. No one in the US is rebuilding these shocks, but it was a great video for instruction and seeing the teardown of the OE Bilsteins.
Last edited by speedlaw; Nov 19, 2024 at 03:20 PM.
I've seen that you can get custom valving in the German market in places. In Eastern Europe, costs are low enough that a rebuild makes sense. There are enough youtube vids of a wrecked car being rebuilt, something considered a total loss, in the US with bags out. A common question and reason Eastern Europe does us such a great service with hacking the car (Full Adaptive Lights !!) is because 'How do I get the car out of wrecked mode' is a thing.
What I'd really like is more adjustment of the existing shocks-since the shock profile is controlled by the valves and voltage fed the solenoids, this could be hacked.
Last edited by speedlaw; Nov 20, 2024 at 10:53 AM.
I love some failure analysis, and taking things apart to see how they work.
I took the Damptronic partly apart....there are two pods off the side, one is pressurized, where the gas part lives. Most auto shocks put this at the bottom, external gas/oil is usually only for things like off road trucks and motocross bikes where you want to dissipate heat...but this is Benz. I didn't take this apart, I'd have to cut it with a grinder and there were scary labels.
The second pod is the variable valve, which is controlled by a solenoid. It came out with a pipe wrench. There is one threaded into the top and the bottom. The oil in the shock flows in one direction only when you move the rod. The valve limits the flow. I am guessing one is compression and one is rebound.
The solenoid that moves the valve appears to have three positions. Full close with vent holes is sport plus. Half open (the vent is triangular) sport, and fully open, Comfort. I read the system is fully variable, and this shock to be fair was EOL, so the detents I felt might have been wear, not design. I'd post a picture if I knew how.
I now know why this is a $450 shock. The two valve bodies are extra, along with the solenoids. Also, multiple possible failure points, but overall appears to be well built.
Now that I have four fresh damptronics in my 2019 140k mile car, it rides "like new" and again is a magic carpet at speeds we don't discuss.
This screws into the top. The oil flows one way, from the outside of the cylinder. It passes into the big hole, and as you will see the actual valve. The oil returns to the shock via the center of the valve, the part on the bottom.
This is the top valve. I was unable to unscrew the bottom. My camera isn't great, but the actual valve passage is triangular with a small circle at the top.
[img alt="The Valve as it sits atop the shock
"]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbworld.org-vbulletin/640x480/img_3798_2a87b32aaee05d1b40302a0711facc5768cf0943. jpg[/img] The Valve as it sits atop the shock The Valve disassembled. There is a small spring under the cap on the right. That's the actual shock oil valve. This is the valve in the open position. and this is the valve closed. That is the solenoid that pushes the valve up and down.
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