With the approaching winter for some of us in the Mid-Atlantic and Northern States, what do people plan on doing to make sure that their C63s are okay for the winter. I do not plan on driving mine during the wintertime unless their happens to be a good day and there is no snow or salt on the roads. It will pretty much sit in the garage.

Do people plan on putting their car on jack stands to prevent tires from flat spotting?

Do people plan on putting gas stabilizers in the gas tank?

What are people doing?

 

I bought a set of snows and plan on driving it through the winter. They are too great not - actually looking forward to a snowy day to see how she does!

But then again, I am also going to drive my Scuderia and 599 during the winter too; however, the Scuderia will not get out in nasty stuff like you note with your C63 but the 599 certainly will go out in all but snow and sleet.

Cheers.

 

Depends how the winter goes. We may get a mild short winter and our cars can come out often enough that I'm not worrying about stabilizer or tire issues.

I would say address the above if you will put the car away for 4-5 months with no chance of taking it out.

 

Gas Stabilizer: Sta-Bil

If you're planning to keep the car a LONG time and really not turn a wheel for four or five months, I would change the oil before storage and again prior to use. I'd also remove the battery and put it on a trickle charger.

That oil change regimen might be old school and if you plan on selling in 3 or 4years it won't be necessary.

The BEST thing would be to just drive it once or twice a month on those few days when the roads clear.

 

I drive my 55 thru the white stuff and it is fine...with 4 snowies and in C mode.

 

Mine will drive through everything unless I physically can't get through the snow. But I highly doubt that with the snow tires I got. Never had an issue with my M3.

 

From the land of the Great White North where we get 7 months of winter and 5 months of poor skiing, my recipe for storing cars (many different models over the years, most recently the SLK55) is pretty straightforward and they all fired up fine come spring:

1. Fresh oil change, add a bottle of fuel stabilzer and top up gas tank (keeps gas fresh and prevents moisture from forming in tank).

2. Air up tires to their maximum cold pressure rating, as found on sidewall. Prevents flatspotting.

3. Wash/wax the car, including interior detailing and leather treatment.

4. Throw a couple clothes drier sheets into car. Helps keep interior fresh.

5. Leave windows down about a half inch to promote air circulation. You might want to leave off this step if the car is kept somewhere not totally secure, or any posibilty of vermin - multi or two legged *L*.

6. Cover with a good quality car cover and leave til spring.

I've always had mine stored in my own heated garage, so I've never removed the battery or used a trickle charger and never had any issues. But nothing wrong with doing either, and it's extra insurance the car will start after several months dis-use. I was just lazy in doing it was all *L*.

Avoid occasional start ups unless you can actually drive the car enough to bring it up to full operating temp for a decent period of time, and allow all fluids to circulate fully.

 

Good points everyone... keep them coming. Since i'm in the DC area, we don't really get too bad of snow where I wouldn't take the car out at least once or twice a month. Luckily for me I just did an oil change at 1000 miles and i only have 1800 miles so i probably won't get it changed again for the winter. i assume that it is okay to drive the car even if i put in the Sta-Bil.

 

Having a Boxster which has been stored over Minnesota winters, I have some experience with this. This was written by someone on a Boxster forum (don't recall who).

1. Change the oil just prior to storage. Oil absorbes moisture (a natural byproduct of combustion) and if old oil is left in the motor, moisture will evaporate out of the oil and condense on the engine internals causing corrosion. Also, oil becomes acidic with use and should be changed for this reason also. Change oil, start engine and run just long enough for the oil to circulate, then shut off for the season to prevent a buildup of moisture. If planning to change the tranny fluid in the coming season, it's also a good idea to do this now for basically the same reason.

2. Increase tire pressures to 50PSI. This will prevent flatspotting and leaks. The tire pressure will drop with ambient temp. Some will say to put the car on blocks, but with modern independent suspension, it's not good to leave it 'unsprung' for long periods. If you want to get really ****, fill the tires with Nitrogen. This is a Dry Gas and will prevent Dry Rot. Nitrogen can be obtained from any welding supply.

3. Store desiccants in the car. These can be purchased and laid on the floor front/back. This prevents mildew from growing and keeps leather from deteriorating due to accumulated moisture. Also, add an open Box of Baking Soda to absorb any odors which may accumulate. The 'Car Cacoons' currently being sold are very good for long term storage and use only a couple bucks electricity the entire season, also reduces door dings and the like. Absent this, use a quality car Cover.

4. Wash the car - don't allow pollution, Tree Sap etc. to work on the paint through the winter.

5. Remove battery from the car and put on a maintainer, preferably inside where it's warm. Be sure to allow plenty of ventilation to prevent Hydrogen Gas buildup.

6. Place the car on a sheet of Vinyl laid out on the garage floor. Make sure the vinyl extends 2 feet from any edge of the car. Garage floors seep moisture through the winter which can condense on the underside of the car, suspension, etc. causing corrosion.

7. Fill Gas Tank with Fresh, Premium fuel. A partial tank will corrode from moist air. Plus, it'll probably be cheaper than filling it next season. Use a stabilizer if you choose, but with Premium Gas, it's usually not necessary. If using a stabilizer, only add it when refueling so it thoroughly mixes with the gas, then run the car home so that the stabilzer can also work it's way through the entire fuel system.

8 Check Anti-freeze to be sure sufficient for temps anticipated.

9. Leave the car out of gear and with the Handbrake Off. If your garage is not level, or you worry about the car being 'rolled', place a brick under the front tire to prevent the car from rolling. Emergency Brake system and Calipers have been known to seize over a season of non-use. If they are engaged, it can be very difficult to dis-engage them (you may need to disassemble the caliper or mechanism to free it). On the other hand, if they are dis-engaged and seize, the hydraulic pressure and/or mechanical advantage of a cable/lever system is often enough to loosen them up again.

10. It may also help to place a couple of Mouse Traps strategically under the car, such as where the exhaust outlet(s), Frame openings, etc. are located. This can prevent something from Moving In to your car over the season. Mice will eat Plastic, Leather and Rubber, in addition to making a mess in general.

 

When i stored my cars for winter, i always used the 2 inch thick construction styroform, you know it comes in blue or pink in eight foot lenghts, you can buy it a your Home Depot. You cut them into two foot lenghts, four of them as they will go under your tires, simply drive up on them or just jack the car up enough to slip them under the tires. They say the flat spotting of your tires occur with the moisture, condensation and humidity from the concrete or asphalt flooring, this seeps into the rubber and breaks them down slowly. I have practised this on many of my toys over the years and have never had any flatspotting at all. By leaving the car on blocks leaves your suspension unsprung, this is not good, if you place the jack stands on the outer part of your springs, this still causes alot of undue stress on these sophisticated cars.

 

+1 snow tires and enjoy the donuts that don't cost too much in rubber

 

im planning in putting up my s class. Now I am planning on getting oil changed, and putting in sta-bil Not sure how I am going to tackle the flat spotting issue hopefully just airing up the tires to 50 will suffice. will ask a tire shop that is close by if they have nitro.

however a question i have is if I store the car in a heated garage will i still have to do all this? also is there any main benefit to heated garage that makes it worth it? I will have to pay, not sure yet how much, but will be storing the car for probably a good 3 months at least trying to figure this out, because if there isnt much benefit to heated garage i will probably do all the steps and just store it in my UNheated garage. need to take action fast as we are down to the teens in temp. and any precip would surely be snow. thanks in advance all

 

bump

 

bump

 

I planned to drive it in the winter, but after today's storm, I am having second thoughts. What are you guys doing about the hardened snow in the back wheel wells? Do you think it will damage the wheel wells, when the car starts moving forward in the morning?

George

 

Talking of winter.. only a few nights ago when it snowed here in Toronto and we got somewhat of a white out, I was driving when it began snowing, and I was still outside when the snow settled down.. well to cut the story short, I have not changed her shoes yet so I was driving in my Pirelli P-Zeros! I gotta tell you.. she can Ski pretty well!

I am used to driving in snow and I actually find it to be very challenging and fun, but as for my tires, I had not had the time to change so until I do change them, I sure hope it doesn't snow again!

 

Personally gotta say that winter driving is fun, I love whipping around parking lots, its so easy. All about personal prefrence and weather severity... Definitely dont use low pros (unless you have good life insurance)

 

It is gonna be my winter driver put a set of snows on and your good to go