Kleemann or not to Kleemann
09-16-2009, 08:54 PM
#52
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c63 amg
Have K2. It is clear that it it not the highest HP tune. But, I am very happy. On a Dyno Jet I got 357 hp stock. Not a very strong car. With just ECU and BMC filters I got up to 419. But the curve was right on top of the stock curve until after 4000+ rpm. with K2 it went to 445. But, the entire curve moved up as well. Headers really helped the hp and tq numbers in the lower rpm range. At Beaver run, on the straights the car pulls away from both GT3s and turbos.
09-17-2009, 09:27 AM
#53
Have K2. It is clear that it it not the highest HP tune. But, I am very happy. On a Dyno Jet I got 357 hp stock. Not a very strong car. With just ECU and BMC filters I got up to 419. But the curve was right on top of the stock curve until after 4000+ rpm. with K2 it went to 445. But, the entire curve moved up as well. Headers really helped the hp and tq numbers in the lower rpm range. At Beaver run, on the straights the car pulls away from both GT3s and turbos.
09-17-2009, 08:45 PM
#54
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c63 amg
09-18-2009, 09:54 AM
#55
STD corrects for some things and typically provides higher (approx 3%?) HP and TQ numbers. It may not be the best number to compare.
To find out which, it is usually shown on the top right of a dyno chart as CF:SAE or CF:STD
The other things to keep in mind:
* The gear used to the pull (5th gear on the C63 is the most popular - closest to 1:1 ratio i believe)
* Octain gas used
* to some extent, the level of smoothing used to calculate the numbers (level 5 is common ie CF:SAE:5).
Were you SAE or STD and do you remember what gear?
Thanks in advance
09-18-2009, 10:29 PM
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My understanding is SAE corrects for more variables and is considered a better comparison for different dynos, temp, humidity etc...
STD corrects for some things and typically provides higher (approx 3%?) HP and TQ numbers. It may not be the best number to compare.
To find out which, it is usually shown on the top right of a dyno chart as CF:SAE or CF:STD
The other things to keep in mind:
* The gear used to the pull (5th gear on the C63 is the most popular - closest to 1:1 ratio i believe)
* Octain gas used
* to some extent, the level of smoothing used to calculate the numbers (level 5 is common ie CF:SAE:5).
Were you SAE or STD and do you remember what gear?
Thanks in advance
STD corrects for some things and typically provides higher (approx 3%?) HP and TQ numbers. It may not be the best number to compare.
To find out which, it is usually shown on the top right of a dyno chart as CF:SAE or CF:STD
The other things to keep in mind:
* The gear used to the pull (5th gear on the C63 is the most popular - closest to 1:1 ratio i believe)
* Octain gas used
* to some extent, the level of smoothing used to calculate the numbers (level 5 is common ie CF:SAE:5).
Were you SAE or STD and do you remember what gear?
Thanks in advance
01-29-2010, 09:21 PM
#58
Senior Member
Sounds good, Kleemann is still my top choice just based on price alone.
Do you know if Kleemann opens up the actual ECU box and mess with the hardware or is it just programming and plugged in?
I ask this because Boxk in the c-class forums got the MKB tune and the ECU had been opened (metal was tampered with), which would be clearly visible to the dealer and potentially bring up warranty issues. Does Keith's MKB ECU show the same tampering?
Hope bokx doesn't mind me using his ECU pic
Do you know if Kleemann opens up the actual ECU box and mess with the hardware or is it just programming and plugged in?
I ask this because Boxk in the c-class forums got the MKB tune and the ECU had been opened (metal was tampered with), which would be clearly visible to the dealer and potentially bring up warranty issues. Does Keith's MKB ECU show the same tampering?
Hope bokx doesn't mind me using his ECU pic
01-29-2010, 11:00 PM
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2011 GLK 350, 2013 GT-R, & 2013 RAM 1500
Holy Thread Resurrection!
I might as well post some data -> https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...2010-c63s.html
I might as well post some data -> https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...2010-c63s.html
02-01-2010, 11:27 AM
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W211 E500 Estate
Yeah, just got mine back from Kleemann and they definitely opened the ECU up (and did a sloppy job, along the lines of what BoxK's looks like...I'll post pics soon). Anyway, I haven't run it yet, and as long as it runs good, I'm happy...but I was surprised, I would have thought just plugging in leads and doing a program would work. I had my STi ECU tuned, and it was all done via port in the car, and didn't need opened. I don't think this is standard practice.
Almost every ECU that is flashed via the ECU outside the car needs to be opened. A grounding wire needs to be in contact with a certain point on the ECU that not only grounds the ECU when the programmer is turned on to keep it from getting shocked but also to put the ECU into read/write mode. With out putting the ECU into read/write mode the ECU will not give out or accept new information with the cables just connected. They are sealed with a very strong adhesive which I can say from personal experience with flashing ECU's here at GMP it can be difficult to work with. A special tool is used to pry open the cover just enough so you can stick a blade in between to cut the "rubbery sealant". This tool as tip like a screw driver thats bent at a 90 degree angle and its metal so its almost impossible not to leave any markings around the edges.
02-01-2010, 11:34 AM
#63
Senior Member
Almost every ECU that is flashed via the ECU outside the car needs to be opened. A grounding wire needs to be in contact with a certain point on the ECU that not only grounds the ECU when the programmer is turned on to keep it from getting shocked but also to put the ECU into read/write mode. With out putting the ECU into read/write mode the ECU will not give out or accept new information with the cables just connected. They are sealed with a very strong adhesive which I can say from personal experience with flashing ECU's here at GMP it can be difficult to work with. A special tool is used to pry open the cover just enough so you can stick a blade in between to cut the "rubbery sealant". This tool as tip like a screw driver thats bent at a 90 degree angle and its metal so its almost impossible not to leave any markings around the edges.
The great news is the car moves like hell...I'm impressed with the work that was done...can't wait to get it on the dyno...have to wait a week because we spent this weekend getting my wife her ML350...had to make her happy first, and reciprocate on my K1 investment
